I don't know much about outboards but figure it must be easier than
inboards. Big wires carry full power like battery and ground. I would be
guessing the rest. You need a schematic and your best bet is ebay for
appropriate literature for your motor. Be real careful so as not to burn up
or short out components - they are hard to find and expensive. Best of luck,
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 12:00 PM
Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #317
>
> omc-boats-digest Tuesday, June 14 2005 Volume 01 : Number
> 317
>
>
>
> [omc-boats] Nice Rogue
> RE: [omc-boats] Wiring Sub Harnesses
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:56:09 -0500
> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> Subject: [omc-boats] Nice Rogue
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C57030.6A331180
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> http://tinyurl.com/daj7j
> - ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C57030.6A331180
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2627" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
> size=3D2><STRONG>http://tinyurl.com/daj7j</STRONG></FONT></DIV></BODY></H=
> TML>
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C57030.6A331180--
>
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 11:38:34 -0400
> From: Ian Torrey <itorrey@...>
> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Wiring Sub Harnesses
>
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
> this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
>
> - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C570F6.16FE6084
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi folks. I have a more basic wiring question I was wondering if someone
> could help with. My Sweet 16 with vintage 100hp Johnson outboard has more
> cables and wires than I know what to do with at the battery terminals, and
> no clear indication of what attaches where. So far I've never managed to
> get
> this to turn over since I bought it (I admit that I haven't found a lot of
> time for actually experimenting). I presume some of the wires might be for
> aftermarket accessories, and would like to just find out what the basic
> connections should be just to get the boat running. Anyone know of where I
> might get instructions for the basic hookup?
>
> Thanks for all the great posts. I don't say much, but read most of them :)
>
> Thanks,
> Ian Torrey
> Ottawa, ON
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-omc-boats@... [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]On
> Behalf Of LShuster (lib1)
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 2:32 PM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Wiring Sub Harnesses
>
>
> If wiring seems complicated, it sometimes helps to break it down, and to
> try
> & understand what the basic sub-harness functions are. This wiring
> schema-design philosophy is fairly common across the entire range of
> OMC-powered 4-stroke I/O boats. There are some minor differences between
> years and models but they are relatively minor. The 2-stroke V-4's are
> quite
> different on the motors themselves and use a slightly different
> motor-to-dash cable assembly from their more common 4-stroke brothers. For
> easier service, that dash/switch panels were modularly connected in later
> models (pos-'67). 1) Battery Cable Assembly (easiest of all to reproduce)
> Red (+) runs from battery to Starter solenoid, Black (-) to engine ground
> 2) Terminal block (usually 4-post) located in engine area, sometimes there
> may also be one under the dash.
> 3) Fuse Block (located under dash) usually has both pos and neg feed
> inputs
> with 9 fused outputs and ground buss terminals. Uses common "glass-type"
> AGC
> fuses. Fuse/circuit positions are lableled: Spare, Pump, Horn, Cig(ar),
> WW,
> Inst(rument)., Runn(ing), Int(erior) , Spare.
> 4) Dash Panel Cable Assembly. This cable connects to your instruments,
> warning lights, and switch gear or one end. The other end has two large
> multiple-pin connectors that hook up to the motor-to-dash cable.
> 5) Motor-to-Dash Cable Assembly Bow-end connects directly to the ammeter,
> while another connector hooks up to electric shift control, two large
> connectors hook up to dash panel connectors. Note: on electric stringers
> there is no default, "fail-safe" gear engagement system. Make sure your
> shifter switch and wiring are working properly. Loss of power to either
> forward or reverse coils could ruin your day. On the stern-end there are
> two, large connectors: 1) hooks up to engine functions, and 2) connects to
> the tilt solenoids and bilge pump/blower. There's typically a stern light
> connector and then some heavy, 8 ga wires connect the ammeter to the
> terminal block (# above).
> 6) Tilt/Bilge/Shift Harness/Cable plugs into one of the large connectors
> from the motor-to-dash harness. Other ends run to the tilt Up and tilt
> Down
> solenoids, the tilt motor connector, the shifter control harness and the
> bilge pump/blower connector.
> 7) Engine Harness/Cable this also plugs into it's own large connector
> from
> the motor-dash harness. The engine items it is wired to include:
> Alternator,
> regulator, coil, ballast resistor, water temp sensor, oil press sensor,
> starter solenoid and starter motor. Don't overlook the separate 8-10 ga
> black wire running from engine ground back down to the terminal block
> running. It's interesting that that last two cable (#6 and #7) are
> considered part of the engine and are not listed in my Sportsman boat
> parts
> book. That probably means that you could pull either of those assembly
> from
> just about any 64 - 77 electric stringer 4-stroke OMC and might
> plug-and-play. Chances are it won't be in any better shape than the one in
> your boat now, however.
>
> Hope this is helpful. If your want further clarification, take a look at
> the
> wiring diagram(s) that Phil posted and this will make a little more sense.
> Sorry my scanner can't do it in one big continous pass.
>
>
> Lee Shuster
> Salt Lake City
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: lib1@... <mailto:lib1@...>
> To: omc-boats@... <mailto:omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 8:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Wiring
>
> Not only can electrical problems be an annoyance (mostly) they can leave
> you stranded, or worse, sometimes lead to fires, so this a good topic for
> discussion.
>
> Tom's and Lee's different approaches to fixing wiring harnesses both have
> their places. I've done it both ways on a number of cars and boats. Tom's
> approach is more time consuming but is ultimately better beacuse with
> Lee's
> approach there's more points of potential failure introduced in the
> electrical continuity path. But Lee's approach is more commonly performed
> by
> individuals and shops and can focus on an immediate problem area,
> typically
> with the wiring remaining in the vehicle.
>
> Getting, understanding and verifying the wiring diagrams is essential.
> Sometimes on 40-year old technology someone has previously modified a
> circuit or used a different color wire. While heat is not the enemy (as it
> is in underhood autos) corrison and moisture can and do take a toll on
> boats. OMC used to make a tube of electrical connector "grease" that kept
> mositure out of the connector and reduced the chance of oxidation or
> corrosion. You don't need the OMC stuff, auto parts and electrical supply
> places carry it under different names.
>
> One thing I have learned, it's always best to pull the harness completely
> out of a vehicle and then lay it out and tag the connectors. This makes it
> much easier to measure lengths and to access, inspect and replace
> connectors
> and pins. Take pictures of the connections and make notes before removal
> if
> your unsure of how it all connects. I find I can take my time and do a
> much
> better job on the workbench, rather than curled up under the dash or
> reaching under or across a motor.
>
> The process that Tom K. describes can be done at home, but I would add
> another tip: Start by practicing on a small sub-section, perhaps involving
> something non-critical like nav lights; rather than the tilt or bilge
> blower/pump. Also, for anyone that's afraid to do this yourself, I know of
> a
> professional shop (they normally manufacture airbag harnesses) that will
> make a completely new vehicle harness, using your old harness as a
> pattern.
> But be prepared to fork over big money to have someone else to it right --
> on the order of $900 to $1200 for parts & labor for a complete wiring
> makeover.
>
>
> Lee Shuster
> Salt Lake City
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: Thomas Klauber <mailto:tklauber@...>
> To: omc-boats-digest@... <mailto:omc-boats-digest@...>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 7:30 PM
> Subject: [omc-boats] Wiring
>
> This message is to all but especially Jay. Here is the way to redo the
> wiring harness - it is not the cheapest but is a total redo. First get a
> Clymer and a Seloc manual which you really should have already. Find a
> used
> OMC Stern Drive Service Manual for your year and horsepower boat on ebay (
> easier said than done but patience will pay off ). You will find wiring
> diagrams in all 3 of these publications and each will show the wiring in a
> slightly different format but with enough study you can confingure what is
> supposed to be on your particular boat. The OMC edition shows the wiring
> in
> color. I have looked forever for used and or new wiring harnesses for the
> older boats on ebay and they just dont exist and I did find one used one
> that I bought and it was in pretty bad shape but I was able to use the
> voltage regulator which you can get aftermarket anyway. Use your old
> harness
> for a template too. Mine was totally toasted. You cut the wires off a
> little
> above the entrance to the plug. There are 2 sizes of pins in the plug. You
> work each wire with its pin out the back of the plug through the smaller
> hole. The pin is soldered and pressed on the wire end so you will have to
> cut off the pressed part - it is impossible really to undo the pressed
> part.
> You do not want to damage the pin cause you are going to re-use it. If the
> pin is corroded (like 2 of mine were) then you will have to improvise a
> new
> pin. Dave Losvar at SeaWay Marine in Seattle has the terminals for the
> other
> ends of the wires if you want to get original. He even has the flag
> terminals for the temp and oil senders ( for the idiot lights ). He has
> the
> knife terminal disconnects too, otherwise improvise. MAKE SURE YOU USE
> MARINE GRADE WIRE AND TERMINALS. You buy Marine Primary Wire from West
> Marine which sells the proper grade and color wire to rebuild properly and
> they sell it in smaller than 100 ft. spools so you dont have so much left
> over. I would not recommend using all one color and grade (unless you are
> selling the boat). Remember every connection you put in the harness is a
> potential Sunday afternoon breakdown. You will end up buying 10 or so
> small
> spools of wire all different sizes and colors depending on the infomation
> you gather from the manual. You get a nice wire stripper and solder the
> wire
> into the pin through the open end which you may have to drill to get
> inside,
> youll see what I mean when you get the pin out and the wire off - the pins
> are hollow. You basically are reattaching the new wire to the old pin and
> you slide the pin and wire back into the plug. It is not easy to slide the
> wire back through the holes left in the rubber plug but if you use the
> same
> size wire as original it will all fit back in place totally like new. I
> used
> a small wire to go through the hole and pulled the wire and plug in from
> the
> front of the plug using a little lubricant. Position the pin back into the
> plug the same depth as original. Do this for each wire. When they are all
> in
> then put a little black silicone sealer in the plug end to sort of set the
> wires. They can be pulled out again but take a lot of effort and the plug
> clamps together and they cummulatively will withstand a lot of pull. You
> wrap the harness in harness tape like the original and reinstall. You will
> need to measure each wire length carefully so the fit will be proper. Save
> stuff like rubber boots and use them again. This is the basics of what I
> did
> and it works well ( so far ). Take your time and measure and remeasure and
> check for electrical continuity often. When you are finished you will know
> that harness like the back of your hand. It takes a long time but is worth
> it. Do it this winter. Take the warness off when you put the boat up and
> get
> to work.Take lots of notes. A temporary fix is to put liquid electrical
> tape
> on the wires to stabilize and insulate them. Once the insulation falls off
> they will corrode and fall apart. West Marine also sells Liquid Elec.
> Tape.
> Good luck - hope this helps. TK
>
>
> - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C570F6.16FE6084
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
>
>
> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1498" name=GENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
> <DIV><SPAN class=927333515-14062005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
> size=2>Hi
> folks. I have a more basic wiring question I was wondering if someone
> could help
> with. My Sweet 16 with vintage 100hp Johnson outboard has more cables and
> wires
> than I know what to do with at the battery terminals, and no clear
> indication of
> what attaches where. So far I've never managed to get this to turn over
> since I
> bought it (I admit that I haven't found a lot of time for actually
> experimenting). I presume some of the wires might be for aftermarket
> accessories, and would like to just find out what the basic connections
> should
> be just to get the boat running. Anyone know of where I might get
> instructions
> for the basic hookup?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=927333515-14062005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
> size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=927333515-14062005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
> size=2>Thanks
> for all the great posts. I don't say much, but read most of them
> :)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=927333515-14062005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
> size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=927333515-14062005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
> size=2>Thanks,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=927333515-14062005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
> size=2>Ian
> Torrey</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=927333515-14062005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
> size=2>Ottawa, ON</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
> <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
> size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
> owner-omc-boats@...
> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]<B>On Behalf Of </B>LShuster
> (lib1)<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 08, 2005 2:32 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
> omc-boats@...<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [omc-boats] Wiring Sub
> Harnesses<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If wiring seems complicated, it sometimes
> helps
> to break it down, and to try & understand what the basic
> sub-harness
> functions are. This wiring schema-design philosophy is fairly common
> across the entire range of OMC-powered 4-stroke I/O boats. There are
> some
> minor differences between years and models but they are relatively minor.
> The
> 2-stroke V-4's are quite different on the motors themselves and use a
> slightly
> different motor-to-dash cable assembly from their more common 4-stroke
> brothers. For easier service, that dash/switch panels were modularly
> connected
> in later models (pos-'67). </FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2>1)
> <STRONG>Battery
> Cable Assembly</STRONG> (easiest of all to reproduce) Red (+) runs from
> battery to Starter solenoid, Black (-) to engine ground</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>2) <STRONG>Terminal block</STRONG> (usually
> 4-post) located in engine area, sometimes there may also be one under the
> dash.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>3) <STRONG>Fuse Block</STRONG> (located
> under
> dash) usually has both pos and neg feed inputs with 9 fused outputs
> and
> ground buss terminals. Uses common "glass-type" AGC fuses. Fuse/circuit
> positions are lableled: Spare, Pump, Horn, Cig(ar), WW, Inst(rument).,
> Runn(ing), Int(erior) , Spare.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>4) <STRONG>Dash Panel Cable
> Assembly</STRONG>.
> This cable connects to your instruments, warning lights, and switch gear
> or
> one end. The other end has two large multiple-pin connectors that hook up
> to
> the motor-to-dash cable.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>5) <STRONG>Motor-to-Dash Cable
> Assembly</STRONG> Bow-end connects directly to the ammeter, while
> another connector hooks up to electric shift control, two large
> connectors
> hook up to dash panel connectors. Note: on electric stringers there is no
> default, "fail-safe" gear engagement system. Make sure your shifter
> switch and
> wiring are working properly. Loss of power to either forward or reverse
> coils
> could ruin your day. On the stern-end there are two, large connectors: 1)
> hooks up to engine functions, and 2) connects to the tilt solenoids and
> bilge
> pump/blower. There's typically a stern light connector and then some
> heavy, 8
> ga wires connect the ammeter to the terminal block (#
> above).</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>6) <STRONG>Tilt/Bilge/Shift
> Harness/Cable
> </STRONG>plugs into one of the large connectors from the motor-to-dash
> harness. Other ends run to the tilt Up and tilt Down solenoids, the tilt
> motor
> connector, the shifter control harness and the bilge pump/blower
> connector.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>7) <STRONG>Engine
> Harness/Cable</STRONG> this also plugs into it's own large
> connector from the motor-dash harness. The engine items it is
> wired to include: Alternator, regulator, coil, ballast resistor,
> water
> temp sensor, oil press sensor, starter solenoid and starter motor. Don't
> overlook the separate 8-10 ga black wire running from engine ground back
> down
> to the terminal block running. It's interesting that that last two
> cable
> (#6 and #7) are considered part of the engine and are not listed in my
> Sportsman boat parts book. That probably means that you could pull either
> of
> those assembly from just about any 64 - 77 electric stringer 4-stroke OMC
> and
> might plug-and-play. Chances are it won't be in any better shape than the
> one
> in your boat now, however.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hope this is helpful. If your want further
> clarification, take a look at the wiring diagram(s) that Phil posted and
> this
> will make a little more sense. Sorry my scanner can't do it in one big
> continous pass.
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV></FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Lee Shuster</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Salt Lake City</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
> style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
> <DIV
> style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color:
> black"><B>From:</B>
> <A title=lib1@...
> href="mailto:lib1@...">lib1@...</A> </DIV>
> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
> title=omc-boats@...
> href="mailto:omc-boats@...">omc-boats@...</A> </DIV>
> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 08, 2005
> 8:17
> AM</DIV>
> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [omc-boats]
> Wiring</DIV>
> <DIV><BR></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Not only can electrical problems be
> an
> annoyance (mostly) they can leave you stranded, or worse, sometimes
> lead to
> fires, so this a good topic for discussion.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tom's and Lee's different approaches to
> fixing
> wiring harnesses both have their places. I've done it both ways on a
> number
> of cars and boats. Tom's approach is more time consuming but is
> ultimately
> better beacuse with Lee's approach there's more points of
> potential
> failure introduced in the electrical continuity path. But Lee's
> approach is
> more commonly performed by individuals and shops and can focus on an
> immediate problem area, typically with the wiring remaining in the
> vehicle.
> </FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial
> size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Getting, understanding and verifying the
> wiring
> diagrams is essential. Sometimes on 40-year old technology someone has
> previously modified a circuit or used a different color wire. While
> heat is
> not the enemy (as it is in underhood autos) corrison and moisture can
> and do
> take a toll on boats. OMC used to make a tube of electrical connector
> "grease" that kept mositure out of the connector and reduced the chance
> of
> oxidation or corrosion. You don't need the OMC stuff, auto parts and
> electrical supply places carry it under different names.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>One thing I have learned, it's always best
> to
> pull the harness completely out of a vehicle and then lay it out and
> tag the
> connectors. This makes it much easier to measure lengths and to access,
> inspect and replace connectors and pins. Take pictures of the
> connections
> and make notes before removal if your unsure of how it all connects. I
> find
> I can take my time and do a much better job on the workbench, rather
> than
> curled up under the dash or reaching under or across a
> motor.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The process that Tom K. describes can be
> done
> at home, but I would add another tip: Start by practicing on a small
> sub-section, perhaps involving something non-critical like nav lights;
> rather than the tilt or bilge blower/pump. Also, for anyone that's
> afraid to
> do this yourself, I know of a professional shop (they normally
> manufacture airbag harnesses) that will make a completely new
> vehicle
> harness, using your old harness as a pattern. But be prepared to fork
> over
> big money to have someone else to it right -- on the order of $900
> to
> $1200 for parts & labor for a complete wiring
> makeover.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Lee Shuster</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Salt Lake City</FONT></DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
> style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> <DIV
> style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color:
> black"><B>From:</B>
> <A title=tklauber@...
> href="mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas Klauber</A> </DIV>
> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
> title=omc-boats-digest@...
>
> href="mailto:omc-boats-digest@...">omc-boats-digest@...</A>
> </DIV>
> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, June 07, 2005
> 7:30
> PM</DIV>
> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [omc-boats]
> Wiring</DIV>
> <DIV><BR></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> This message is to all but
> especially
> Jay. Here is the way to redo the wiring harness - it is not the
> cheapest
> but is a total redo. First get a Clymer and a Seloc manual which you
> really should have already. Find a used OMC Stern
> Drive Service Manual for your year and horsepower boat on
> ebay (
> easier said than done but patience will pay off ). You will find
> wiring
> diagrams in all 3 of these publications and each will show the wiring
> in a
> slightly different format but with enough study you can confingure
> what is
> supposed to be on your particular boat. The OMC edition shows the
> wiring
> in color. I have looked forever for used and or new wiring harnesses
> for
> the older boats on ebay and they just dont exist and I did find one
> used
> one that I bought and it was in pretty bad shape but I was able to
> use the
> voltage regulator which you can get aftermarket anyway. Use your old
> harness for a template too. Mine was totally toasted. You cut the
> wires
> off a little above the entrance to the plug. There are 2
> sizes
> of pins in the plug. You work each wire with its pin out the back of
> the
> plug through the smaller hole. The pin is soldered and pressed on the
> wire
> end so you will have to cut off the pressed part - it is impossible
> really
> to undo the pressed part. You do not want to damage the pin cause you
> are
> going to re-use it. If the pin is corroded (like 2 of mine were) then
> you
> will have to improvise a new pin. Dave Losvar at SeaWay Marine in
> Seattle
> has the terminals for the other ends of the wires if you want to get
> original. He even has the flag terminals for the temp and oil senders
> (
> for the idiot lights ). He has the knife terminal disconnects too,
> otherwise improvise. MAKE SURE YOU USE MARINE GRADE WIRE AND
> TERMINALS.
> You buy Marine Primary Wire from West Marine which sells the proper
> grade
> and color wire to rebuild properly and they sell it in smaller than
> 100
> ft. spools so you dont have so much left over. I would not recommend
> using
> all one color and grade (unless you are selling the boat).
> Remember
> every connection you put in the harness is a potential Sunday
> afternoon
> breakdown. You will end up buying 10 or so small spools of wire all
> different sizes and colors depending on the infomation you gather
> from the
> manual. You get a nice wire stripper and solder the wire into the pin
> through the open end which you may have to drill to get inside,
> youll
> see what I mean when you get the pin out and the wire off - the
> pins
> are hollow. You basically are reattaching the new wire to the old pin
> and
> you slide the pin and wire back into the plug. It is not easy to
> slide the
> wire back through the holes left in the rubber plug but if you use
> the
> same size wire as original it will all fit back in place totally like
> new.
> I used a small wire to go through the hole and pulled the wire
> and
> plug in from the front of the plug using a little lubricant. Position
> the
> pin back into the plug the same depth as original. Do this for each
> wire.
> When they are all in then put a little black silicone sealer in the
> plug
> end to sort of set the wires. They can be pulled out again but take a
> lot
> of effort and the plug clamps together and they cummulatively will
> withstand a lot of pull. You wrap the harness in harness tape like
> the
> original and reinstall. You will need to measure each wire length
> carefully so the fit will be proper. Save stuff like rubber boots and
> use
> them again. This is the basics of what I did and it works well ( so
> far ).
> Take your time and measure and remeasure and check for electrical
> continuity often. When you are finished you will know that harness
> like
> the back of your hand. It takes a long time but is worth it. Do it
> this
> winter. Take the warness off when you put the boat up and get to
> work.Take
> lots of notes. A temporary fix is to put liquid electrical tape
> on
> the wires to stabilize and insulate them. Once the insulation falls
> off
> they will corrode and fall apart. West Marine also sells Liquid Elec.
> Tape. Good luck - hope this helps.
> TK</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>
> - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C570F6.16FE6084--
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #317
> *******************************
>
> -----
> To get off this list send mail to
> omc-boats-digest-unsubscribe@...
-----
To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
Received on Tuesday, 14 June 2005
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.2.0 : Tuesday, 29 July 2014 EDT