RE: [omc-boats] Wiring

Hi Ryan,

I feel somewhat qualified to make some wiring recommendations having
just completed a winter-long helm project on my 66 Sportsman. I've also
re-wired/restored several other vehicles over the years. I also collect,
repair and restore vintage vacuum tube hi-fi equipment dating from the
fifties and sixties.

First the good news: From the pictures you boat appears to be a 1969 or
newer model and uses the later-style round (Yellow and Black) sealed
engine connectors.

That's good because OMC continued using that basic harness on all
four-stroke electric-shift stringers I/O units built from 1969 to 1977.
That includes OEM units sold to other boat builders, as E/J discontinued
boat building after the 1970 model run. In other words, you have a ready
source of older junkyard "doner" boats to potentially pull complete
harness from, or to obtain better condition "cut-off" connectors that
you can then use to splice into your existing harness.

Now for the bad news: Salt water and electrical wiring and 40-year old
boats are the perfect recipe for major headaches. While E/J boats were
built to the highest standards of their day; wiring, connectors,
switch/fuse panels and standards have all advanced/. Off-shore
(saltwater) is an extremely harsh environment, especially on electrical
systems. It's also not the place you want to get stranded :-( From
the pictures you've shown there appears to some major splicing and what
appears to be heat-related damage to your wiring. I'd say you on the
right track to me thinking about trying to correct the situation and
you've come to right place for help.

So here's some advice (I'm sure others will hopefully chime in, as
well):

1. Start out with documentation on how the boat was originally
wired at the factory. This includes wiring diagrams, commonly called
schematics. It also includes a color-coded chart, which explain the
original wiring harnesses color-coding schemes. Also take careful note
of the size of the wires (AWG number) used, at that will determine their
load carrying capacity. I'm simplifying things, but E/J/O boats have
three major wiring harnesses: 1) The engine cable assembly. 2) Engine
to helm cable assembly, and 3) Helm/Console/instruments/fuse panel
assembly. If you don't have access to the factory diagrams or parts
manuals, you can get close by studying the info on my website at:
http://hhscott.com/evinrude/wiring.htm

2. Once you've got the documentation part nailed down, it's time to
evaluate the situation. The best way to do that is to COMPLETELY REMOVE
the individual harnesses for inspection, cleaning/de-oxidizing,
replacement, sealing/moisture-proofing, and re-installation. Even in
fresh water the electrical connections tend to oxidize and that results
in an open connection or a high resistance connection. In salt water
every thing is accelerated as far as corrosive actions. This action can
travel up the stranded wire, hidden inside the outer insulation and
literally eat away the wiring from the inside out. It's very difficult
to perform proper inspection on an installed harness. I like to remove
it and get it laid out on a workbench where I can really see everything
and work on it away from potential hazards on the boat.

Of course, without the proper documentation in step 1, most people will
be scratching their heads, when it comes time to re-install it. Also,
break it down into sections: you can work on one cable assembly at a
time. But remember it's only as strong as the weakest link. I'd focus on
the engine/sterndrive assembly first, then the helm/fuse area, and
lastly the long cable that connects the stern to the helm.

3. Materials and Techniques: There are several good books available
for basic marine DC wiring, get one. The ABYC publishes guidelines and
standards for wiring boats. When it comes to salt water applications
don't cut corners. Check out the wire, connectors and tools from Ancor
Products. <http://www.ancorproducts.com/index.html> They have over
twenty-years' experience in off-shore (salt-water) marine-rated
electrical products. They are expensive, but in your situation, I highly
recommend their products, especially their adhesive-lined shrink tubing,
or their self-sealing connectors. Also, you'll need good tools. At a
minimum, invest in a high-quality double-ratchet crimping tool and
practice using it. Ditto for a good test meter. Ancor products are
typically carried by your local West Marine or Boater's World Outlet or
can be ordered online. In freshwater, most people get by with cheaper
automotive products, just fine. But for salt water/off-shore, I'd
recommend you pay a little more and get the marine-rated stuff. It's
sorta pay me now or re-do it in a few years again.

4. Chemicals and such: I like to use the following (in order of
application or use):

1) Electrical Contact cleaner from CRC (I also like to wipe down greasy
harnesses with a rag soaked in hand cleaner).
2) DeoxIT D5 from Caig. Once a contact is completely cleaned -- I use
this product to help further remove stubborn oxidation from electrical.
3) Stabilant 22 from D. W. Electrochemicals Ltd. to enhance electrical
conductivity and reduce resistance on the actual electrical contact
surface.
4) Di-electric sealant: I like Grote's Ultra-Seal as a way to lubricate
and seal a "finished" connector from corrosion. Trailer places typically
carry this product. This helps keep the "bad" stuff out and makes it
easier to disconnect the connector in the future. It's typically used on
boat trailer bulbs/sockets, but also works well on your stern pole and
navigation lights, as well as all connectors. It will eventually dry out
and need re-application. Since it's a di-electric (meaning an insulator)
take care not to have too much of it on the contact area.)

Lee Shuster

Lib1@...

 <http://hhscott.com>

  _____

From: owner-omc-boats@... [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]
On Behalf Of Ryan
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 6:21 AM
To: omc-boats@...
Subject: [omc-boats] Wiring

While I have the heads and exhaust off this 225 I want to rewire it.
Does anyone have any salt water experience? Should I RTV the
connections or use some kind of rubber paint?

-----
To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
Received on Wednesday, 3 May 2006