Hey Tom, Check out this foam product from versi-foam. Here is the link.
www.rhhfoamsystems.com By using there gun mixing system I was
able to re-foam my boat in about 15 minutes! Instead of mixing and
pouring the foam before putting the deck back together. I re-built the
deck first. Glass in the edges and seems only at this point. Then
drilled holes about every foot. The holes worked great. They acted as
fill points and vent holes to let the air and the extra over foam out.
I did cut about a 10 inch hole out in the front of the new deck. That
was so I could look in and check the re-foaming progress. However, it
went so well I did not have to check the new foam threw the hole. I
could see the progress by the foam shooting out of the little holes! I
started from the back of the deck and worked my way to the front. I
scraped the extra foam off the top of the deck then glassed over the
entire new deck and holes. I have pictures of the re-build if you need
reference. -----Good luck Tom --Dave from San Diego
On Jul 1, 2006, at 7:27 AM, Tom Paquette wrote:
>
> David,
>
> I have one question.
>
> I have removed the foam and hull is now empty and dry. I kept a few
> edge spots for height determination. I plan to pour a little new foam
> beside these spots level it with them and pull up the last few pieces
> of old foam.
>
> Once I glass the new floor to hull following the sealing methods you
> prescribe… HOW do I know how much foam to pour into the chamber?? I
> know I have to have a couple of pouring/release holes. How many
> holes do I need?? Is it possible to over foam and crack or deform
> the hull?? Or am I being over concerned….
>
>
> Anyone who has done this part your advise would be highly appreciated.
>
> Tom
> Charlotte, NC
>
> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On Behalf Of David A. Avedesian,
> PE, RPA
> Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 10:14 PM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] How to check stringers/foam?
>
> Zach in Seattle:
>
> If you have water in the foam, the floorboard is bad. OMC did not
> protect the wood floor from the bottom. The wood is open or raw.
>
> My suggestion for the easiest and best method is as follows:
>
> · Make a mark a straight cut line two inches from the side of
> the boat.
> · Then draw a cut line about two inches in front of the bilge
> well and
> · A cut line between the front and back seats.
> · Using a hand skill/7" circular set the saw blade for a 1/2"
> cut and saw cut the floorboard.
> · Remove the floorboard and send it to 'heaven'.
> · Using a claw hammer’s claw, remove the foam and send it to
> ‘heaven’.
> · If you have any mildew/mold, wash the inside of the hull with
> bleach and water.
> · Then rinse and dry the inside.
> · Note: When I removed the foam, I decided to make a custom
> fit stainless steel gas tan to fit down in between the stringers. I
> made the tank 8 feet long x 11 inches wide with a varying depth of 7
> inches in the front to 4 inches in the back. The new gas tank held 27
> ½ gallons of fuel and place the weight as low in the center of gravity
> as possible. It has worked great and freed up valuable space in the
> back of the boat. The trim on the boat greatly improved. The down
> side of this option was the tank can be very expensive. For me the
> benefits out weight the cost.
> · By leaving the two inch edge on the side of the boat, it
> becomes easy to rematch the floorboard height within the boat.
> · Use the finest grade marine grade plywood (5 ply) you can buy.
> · Cut the pieces to fit the void created by removing the old
> floor.
> · ‘Paint’ all six sides of the new floorboards with epoxy.
> This will seal the floor from moisture in the future.
> · Re-foam using the highest density closed cell foam system
> under the floor.
> · The floorboard does not touch the boat stringers.
> · The floorboard is supported by the foam. The foam becomes
> part of the structural support of the boat.
> · The floorboard ‘floats’ above the stringers.
> · The floorboard is ‘hard’ at the edges to the boat.
> · Use one layer of tri-axial fiberglass cloth and epoxy the new
> floor board in place.
> · Sand and paint the floor a dark gray interior paint.
> · ‘Float’ a carpet over the new floorboard.
>
> When you take hundreds of pounds of water out of the basement of the
> boat and you hit the gas, the boat just want to jump out the water.
> She can not be on plan with in 12 feet. Now that is a boat.
>
> If you would like to view the finished product, I sent my Sweet 16 to
> my son in Seattle, WA. In fact, he is almost out on it every week on
> Lake Union and Lake Washington. The boat is all white with a black
> rubrail with a 115 hp Yamaha. If you see the boat, my son’s name is
> Greg.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> David Avedesian
> Silver Spring, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On Behalf Of Zach Stanley
> Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 11:57 AM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] How to check stringers/foam?
>
> This is a topic that has had me waking up at night screaming! I know
> that our boat is waterlogged. It has sat low as long as we've had it -
> about three years - but also lists to the starboard side. Also, the
> boat has been in the family since new and everyone has commented how
> "the boat just kept getting slower and slower" and "harder to pull a
> skier out", etc. Makes sense now that the boat is dragging some extra
> weight around.
>
> My question is... will replacing the foam using conventional methods
> now give the boat structure as the original injected foam did. I
> would love to hear comments about regained performance - or hull-flex
> post foam repair. Pictures of the repair process would be great.
> Perhaps a section on the ultimate site should be devoted to this
> subject with tips and photos since it is such a common problem.
> Someone had mentioned cutting large holes in the floor at intervals to
> scoop out the foam and re-fill the cavity while leaving the floor
> basically intact. I think I will try this if the floor itself can be
> saved. If that person has any pictures or further tips I would love
> more info. I feel very fortunate to be involved with such an
> informative group - thanks guys!
> Zach
> 1970 Seasport 155
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Andy Perakes" <aperakes@...>
> > To: omc-boats@...
> > Subject: Re: [omc-boats] How to check stringers/foam?
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 20:49:12 -0400
> >
> >
> > I haven't tried this, but another thought that would be a lot less
> > destructive (if it works): Remove one of the bolts holding the
> seats down
> > and try sticking a pipe cleaner (the fuzzy wires used in arts &
> crafts) or
> > some other object that might show moisture into the foam. I'd
> recommend
> > trying one of the front bolts as both my rears were rusted in place
> and
> > ripped the lock nut out of the plywood when I repaired my seats 2
> years ago
> > (both fronts came out easy). As I said, I haven't tried it yet, but
> its
> > quick and easy enough to be worth a try before cutting holes in your
> floor
> > (though that's probably the only way to be 100% sure....but then how
> many
> > holes do you cut and where?) Good luck!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "David A. Avedesian, PE, RPA" <david.avedesian@...>
> > To: <omc-boats@...>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 6:56 PM
> > Subject: RE: [omc-boats] How to check stringers/foam?
> >
> >
> > > Kenneth:
> > >
> > > I own a 1965 Sweet 16 outboard model.
> > >
> > > Generally there is never a question regarding whether you have
> water or
> > not.
> > > If you have water under the floor boards, the boat is very heavy
> and sits
> > > very low in the water in the stern.
> > >
> > > I believe the easiest and effective way to check is to use a
> hole-saw
> > > perhaps 3" to 5" in diameter and drill through the floor in the
> center in
> > > front of the rear combing.
> > >
> > > The floor board is about 1/2" thick and there is nothing under the
> center
> > > line of the boat from a structural point of view.
> > >
> > > As soon as you remove the round plug, you will know by the odor.
> The
> > second
> > > way to determine is to push your finger into the foam. If it
> squeezes
> > > water, than you have a problem.
> > >
> > > I have found that when it comes to water under the floor boards,
> you will
> > > never be sort-a-pregnant. It will either be zero or flooding.
> > >
> > > If you are dry, then mix up a small amount of epoxy (West System
> is what I
> > > have used) and a layer of tri-axial cloth. Tri-axial is strong in
> three
> > > directions and you can use one layer.
> > >
> > > This may be more information than you wanted but I have asked this
> > question
> > > a couple of times. If you would like more, feel free to ask.
> > >
> > > David Avedesian
> > > Silver Spring, MD
> > > Near Your Nation's Capital
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-omc-boats@...
> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of Kenneth Fingerlos
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 4:21 PM
> > > To: omc-boats@...
> > > Subject: [omc-boats] How to check stringers/foam?
> > >
> > > I've seen a lot of traffic on this list about the state of the
> foam and
> > > stringers underneath the floor.
> > >
> > > Does anybody have any sage advice as to how one would go about
> checking
> > the
> > > status of such things? In particular, can it be done without
> cutting
> > holes?
> > > and if one has to cut a hole, where should such be cut to maximize
> the
> > > benefits and minimize the problems?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Kenenth
> > >
> > >
> > > -----
> > > To get off this list send mail to
> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >
> > >
> > > -----
> > > To get off this list send mail to
> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >
> >
> > -----
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>
> >
>
>
> --
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>
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Received on Monday, 3 July 2006
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