Ah, now it makes a little more sense. It's the "let's replace everything, in hopes we find the real cause..." school of troubleshooting." We've all been there, done that.
Maybe a better way is a troubleshooting strategy that determines the root cause with the least amount of guess work and expense. Why replace something when it ain't broke?
Has your guy been out on the water with you? It's difficult to understand the symptom for list members or mechanics without actually feeling or experiencing the symptom on the water.
It's fairly easy to diagnose and eliminate all battery-coil-ignition causes by using a typical automotive oscilloscope or ignition analyzer. 'Scopes immediately pinpoint any ignition problems, be it ballast resistor, points (dwell setting), condensor, rotor, cap, HT wires, spark plugs, or coil, as well as static timing and any advance timing issues. Just doing a simple but complete, backyard ignition tune-up is fairly easy for most shade-tree mechanics, if you have a dwell meter-tach, a set of feeler gauges, and a timing light (or you could convert to an electronic ignition setup like the Petronix.)
I seriously doubt your coil is causing WOT cut-out, but anything is possible. Does your mechanic have an ignition analyzer? If you can't perform a complete ignition tune-up yourself, have you asked him to perform one? Start by checking for where the points dwell is set and where the static ignition timing is set? (Adjusting dwell angle will affect timing.) Do all other ignition-related functions check out, like turn-key starting, hot or cold?
If I had to take an educated guess, based on the information you've provided so far, your WOT (what RPM?) "it starts to sputter" symptom is probably 90% fuel related. It is pretty common to chase fuel-related issues on old boats that have sat around and then been returned to service. Did you chase these same symptoms last year? (You didn't say whether or not your six, maintenance items were done all at once or over time.)
Also, if you didn't start at the source (the fuel tank and the fuel you put into it) and you didn't pull out the tank and steam clean and seal it, there's a good possibility that it will continue to contaminate your fuel system. I'd recommend you re-trace all aspects of your fuel delivery system including the carb, as it doesn't take much in the way of fine rust or other contamination to cause the symptoms you have described. To prove a point, I've seen guys rig up a small auxiliary fuel tank to bypass the main system. Also, you didn't mention what you used for a replacement fuel pump?
BTW, OMC never factory-installed check-valves in their fuel tanks, to the best of my knowledge. That doesn't mean someone else hasn't in the last 40 years.
Personally, the kink in your mechanic's replacement fuel line is one step away from a fire or explosion waiting to happen. I'd be all over him to replace that before you take the boat out again. The last thing you need is a little vibration causing a pin hole in the line, resulting in a fine mist of highly flammable, gasoline in you closed engine compartment. We'd all like to keep you and your boat around a little longer!
Lee Shuster
Utah
________________________________________
From: omc-boats-bounces@... [omc-boats-bounces@...e.com] On Behalf Of wheresjerry@... [wheresjerry@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 11:25 AM
To: omc-boats@...
Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1969 buick v6 omc coil
Ok, to be more specific, I have been having an issue of when my boat is wide
open, it starts to sputter and seems to be gas starved. What I have done so
far is:
1-Replace gas line.
2-Install fuel separating filter.
3-Install new fuel pump.
4-Install new gas line from pump to carb.**
Mechanic put a small, but noticeable kink in metal fuel line. It
appears that it could be restricting.
5-Changed plugs and wires.
6-Cleaned carb.
All of this was done in order to stop fuel starvation issue, but to no
avail. :(
This is the 2nd season out on the water, and I need to get to the bottom of
this before I spend more money on my mechanic.
I'd like to change out the kinked fuel line to a flexible line to avoid
kinking, where can I find one? Also, could my coil be shitting out at high
rpm, causing rpm loss, which would cause the mechanical pump to fluctuate
starving motor for fuel?
I have posted questions in the past about this, but figured that a list as
to what has been done might help solving this issue. My mechanic also
suggested it could be from a check valve in the gas tank?
Any help would be grateful in solving this issue!
karl/wheresjerry banach
105 browns pasture rd
strafford, nh 03884
--------------------------------------------------
From: <omc-boats-request@...>
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 12:00 PM
To: <omc-boats@...>
Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 30
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> 1. Re: 1969 buick v6 omc coil ? (Lee Shuster)
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> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
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> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 09:05:25 -0600
> From: Lee Shuster <lee.k.shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1969 buick v6 omc coil ?
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID:
> <A862F82A5046A24EAAB14F5651B69AE344AA0874E0@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Karl,
>
> How have you tested the coil or determined that you need a new one? They
> rarely fail, so I'm curious as to why you think you need a replacement?
> What resistance have you measured on the Primary side? What voltage are
> you seeing on the Secondary side? Have you checked the ballast resistor
> and it's connections? This might help :
> http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coiltest-manual.htm
>
> Your 155 OMC Buick-Jeep 3.7L V6 Ignition Coil is a "universal" style
> canister-style, that uses an external ballast resistor. In other words it
> is not unique to the Buick V6 and it is not an electrical part that is
> "marine" rated for instrinsically safe operation. While it is called-out
> as a 12-Volt coil in application, the ballast resistor only allows 12V to
> flow during start-up cranking. Once the engine is running the ballast
> resistor reduces the voltage to the coil by approximately half. So in
> actual running operation the coil does it's job on only 6 to 8 volts,
> adding further confusion. Some 12-volt coils are sold with their own
> internal ballast resistor, so unless you want to bypass your existing
> EXTERNAL ballast resistor, don't get one of those. Keywords for your
> search: 12-volt, external ballast resistor, oil-filled, canister-style
> automotive ignition coil.
>
> If you want a "drop-in" stock replacement, just get a generic 12-Volt
> (using external ballast resistor) cannister style coil, with a similar
> diameter to the one you have. It the new one is slightly smaller diameter
> you can shim it to the clamping bracket holds it securely. Sometimes
> replacement coils might be a little taller, so make sure you measure the
> existing space for height and diameter. You can find these coils just
> about anywhere, ranging from $20.00 to $50.00 dollars depending on whose
> name is on them , how they are externally dressed, and who's marketing
> them up. You can pay a little more if you want a higher ourput spark
> voltage, but I wouldn't go there unless you are considering replacement of
> the stock points with an electronic ignition system. In other words, you
> are only complicating your search by barking up the Buick or Jeep 225 V6
> (3.7L) tree.
>
> While you're at it, don't forget that the best coil in the world won't be
> worth much unless you replace the the HT (High Tension) secondary wires
> running to the distributor and from the distributor to the spark plugs,
> including the distributor cap. You can get the wire in bulk and cut to fit
> or buy a V6 or V8 set and route the wires as neatly as you can. The Buick
> distributor is in a rather odd place compare d to most GM V engines, so
> the distances the HT wires have to travel are a little different. The
> DISTRIBUTOR cap is something that is unique to the 225 Buick V6 (3.7L) and
> that should be available at your local NAPA store. In other words. do NOT
> substitute any other GM V6 distributor or cap for the 150-155 hp OMC -
> Buick- Jeep 1964 - 1972 225 (3.7L) odd-fire V6.
>
> You can read more than you ever wanted to know about the world's first
> mass-produced V6 at:
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/buick_v6.htm
>
> Lee Shuster
> Utah
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________
> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
> [omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of wheresjerry@...
> [wheresjerry@...]
> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 5:38 AM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1969 buick v6 omc coil ?
>
> Any one assist me in locating a ignition coil for my OMC Buick v-6 155 hp
> sterndrive....I have been searching all the usual places NAPA, Advanced
> Auto, etc....it seems all pages do not carry a Buick v6 engine, and I do
> not want to purchase a wrong coil....most are listed as v-8's and inline
> 6's...no v6.
> thanks!!!
>
>
> karl/wheresjerry banach
> 105 browns pasture rd
> strafford, nh 03884
>
>
> is on them
>
> ------------------------------
>
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> OMC-Boats@...
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>
>
> End of OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 30
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