[OMC-Boats] gas line.....

From: wheresjerry@...
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 16:58:53 -0400

I'll be changing that VERY shortly...I don't think I'm ready to be blown to
bits either!

karl/wheresjerry banach
105 browns pasture rd
strafford, nh 03884

--------------------------------------------------
From: <omc-boats-request@...>
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:40 PM
To: <omc-boats@...>
Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 40

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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: 1969 coil? (Lee Shuster)
> 2. 1ST RUN CHECKLIST (jd)
> 3. Re: 1ST RUN CHECKLIST (BLDFW)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 13:47:00 -0600
> From: Lee Shuster <lee.k.shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1969 coil?
> To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID:
> <A862F82A5046A24EAAB14F5651B69AE344AA072126@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Also, even after I had done all the filters and steam cleaned my fuel
> tank, I still managed to keep finding fine rusty looking stuff in my fuel
> for several times out in my first season. In my case, it resulted in the
> carb float valve sticking and not shutting off fuel. This would result in
> flooding and not be able to re-start the engine.
>
> I can't stress enough that you get that new copper fuel line with the kink
> looked at, ASAP. You can route the line in such away that engine heat
> shouldn't be a problem. Or you can wrap insulation around the line, after
> you iron out the kink.
>
> Lee
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
> [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of jd
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 1:38 PM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1969 coil?
>
> ill just toss this one out - i had a similar thing going on way back when
> and had a mechanic tell me it was the fuel vaporizing in the line
> between the pump and the carb. he said the flawed design of having
> the copper fuel line pass to close to the hot engine might be getting
> the fuel so hot it was vaporizing a bit. i think i replaced the
> fuel pump or something back then and it was fixed. can't remember,
> been too many things since.....
>
>
>
> On Jun 15, 2009, at 5:39 AM, <wheresjerry@...> <wheresjerry@...>
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the info on the point possibility. That is some of my
>> thoughts too is that if it is misfiring, of course you would see
>> intermit intent gas going into the carb as the boat was fluctuating
>> it's rpms due to bad firing?? I have the original owner who is also
>> an x-mechanic come over and take a look. Being the original owner,
>> he would know how it ran, and hopefully know what's what with it.
>> Hopefully!
>>
>> All the filters are new also. I had the same problems last Summer
>> with it running like that, and this year we did the fuel line, filter,
>> and fuel pump, only to have it happen again. When I put the boat in
>> last year, it did not exhibit the same issue till about an hour into
>> running it, so I am thinking, something just went on it to cause the
>> problem.
>>
>> Any more suggestions still welcome!
>>
>> karl/wheresjerry banach
>> 105 browns pasture rd
>> strafford, nh 03884
>>
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: <omc-boats-request@...>
>> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 1:04 AM
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 37
>>
>>> Send OMC-Boats mailing list submissions to
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>>>
>>> Today's Topics:
>>>
>>> 1. Re: OMC bilge/blower combo (Kim Foster) 2. Re: 1969 buick v6 omc
>>> coil (BLDFW)
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> -
>>>
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 20:48:36 -0700
>>> From: Kim Foster <snagf@...>
>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC bilge/blower combo
>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>>> Message-ID: <BAY107-W6473FF2316E45A0CDB079B83E0@...>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>>>
>>>
>>> Scott - If your housing parts are good, I might suggest you contact
>>> Sound Starter Rebuild in Tacoma, Washington... I use them on my car
>>> restorations for old heater/defrost units. They will rebuild/rewind
>>> all kinds of electric motors...for a pretty cheap price. They look
>>> and function as new.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> From: scottveazie@...
>>> To: omc-boats@...
>>> Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 15:29:12 -0700
>>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] OMC bilge/blower combo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> All,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a functioning original bilge/blower combo unit
>>> they'd like to part with? I'm not sure I'll be able to salvage
>>> mine...lots of rust and oil contamination....
>>>
>>> ~Scott
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail?. See how.
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>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 2
>>> Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 21:37:42 -0700 (PDT)
>>> From: BLDFW <bldfw@...>
>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1969 buick v6 omc coil
>>> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>>> <omc-boats@...>
>>> Message-ID: <539110.34438.qm@...>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>>
>>> Before going to that expense, I would double check the points.? It
>>> could be they are 'floating' at higher speeds and making inconsistent
>>> contact.?
>>>
>>> I had a buddy redo his points on a twin engine boat and inadvertantly
>>> left a tension spring off.? He didn't run at full throttle that much
>>> so it wasn't immediately apparent as to the problem but anytime he
>>> ran the RPMs above 2500 it would start to misfire and behave as
>>> though it were fuel starved.? He looked at everything but that and
>>> then by chance happened to explain the problem to the marina shop to
>>> which they mentioned "floating points".? He looked again, added a
>>> spring and all was well again.
>>>
>>> Sounds like my learning experience with my classic '73 Chrysler Town
>>> & Country wagon.? The previous owner installed an electric fuel pump
>>> because it "vapor locked".? I began experiencing problems with fuel
>>> starvation so naturally after awhile I spent $70.00 and replaced the
>>> fuel pump only to have the problem continue.? Turned out to be the
>>> $1.70 fuel filter in the glass tube.? It looked fine until I
>>> inadvertantly jarred it and the glass became coated with dislodged
>>> crud from the filter.? Lesson learned.? Start with the CHEAP stuff
>>> and work your way up to replacing the boat from there.
>>>
>>> -Bill
>>> Dallas, TX
>>> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
>>> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>>>
>>> --- On Sun, 6/14/09, Lee Shuster <lee.k.shuster@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> From: Lee Shuster <lee.k.shuster@...>
>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1969 buick v6 omc coil
>>> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>>> <omc-boats@...
>>> >
>>> Date: Sunday, June 14, 2009, 1:51 PM
>>>
>>> Ah, now it makes a little more sense. It's the "let's replace
>>> everything, in hopes we find the real cause..." school of
>>> troubleshooting." We've all been there, done that.
>>> Maybe a better way is a troubleshooting strategy that determines the
>>> root cause with the least amount of guess work and expense. Why
>>> replace something when it ain't broke?
>>>
>>> Has your guy been out on the water with you????It's difficult to
>>> understand the symptom for list members or mechanics without actually
>>> feeling or experiencing the symptom on the water.?
>>>
>>> It's fairly easy to diagnose and eliminate all battery-coil- ignition
>>> causes by using a typical automotive oscilloscope or ignition
>>> analyzer. 'Scopes immediately pinpoint any ignition problems, be it
>>> ballast resistor, points (dwell setting), condensor, rotor, cap, HT
>>> wires, spark plugs, or coil, as well as static timing and any advance
>>> timing issues.? Just doing a simple but complete, backyard ignition
>>> tune-up is fairly easy for most shade-tree mechanics, if you have a
>>> dwell meter-tach, a set of feeler gauges, and a timing light (or you
>>> could convert to an electronic ignition setup like the Petronix.)
>>>
>>> I seriously doubt your coil is causing WOT cut-out, but anything is
>>> possible. Does your mechanic have an ignition analyzer?? If you can't
>>> perform a complete ignition tune-up yourself, have you asked him to
>>> perform one? Start by checking for where the points dwell is set and
>>> where the static ignition timing is set?? (Adjusting dwell angle will
>>> affect timing.)? Do all other ignition-related functions check out,
>>> like turn-key starting, hot or cold?
>>>
>>> If I had to take an educated guess, based on the information you've
>>> provided so far,? your WOT (what RPM?) "it starts to sputter"
>>> symptom is probably 90% fuel related.? It is pretty common to chase
>>> fuel-related issues on old boats that have sat around and then been
>>> returned to service. Did you chase these same symptoms last year?
>>> (You didn't say whether or not your six, maintenance items were done
>>> all at once or over time.)
>>>
>>> Also, if you didn't start at the source (the fuel tank and the fuel
>>> you put into it) and you didn't pull out the tank and steam clean and
>>> seal it, there's a good possibility that it will continue to
>>> contaminate your fuel system. I'd recommend you re-trace all aspects
>>> of your fuel delivery system including the carb, as it doesn't take
>>> much in the way of fine rust or other contamination to cause the
>>> symptoms you have described.? To prove a point, I've seen guys rig up
>>> a small auxiliary fuel tank to bypass the main system.
>>> Also, you didn't mention what you used for a replacement fuel pump??
>>>
>>> BTW, OMC never factory-installed check-valves in their fuel tanks, to
>>> the best of my knowledge. That doesn't mean someone else hasn't in
>>> the last 40 years.
>>>
>>> Personally, the kink in your mechanic's replacement fuel line is one
>>> step away from a fire or explosion waiting to happen. I'd be all over
>>> him to replace that before you take the boat out again.
>>> The last thing you need is a little vibration causing a pin hole in
>>> the line, resulting in a fine mist of highly flammable, gasoline in
>>> you closed engine compartment. We'd all like to keep you and your
>>> boat around a little longer!
>>>
>>> Lee Shuster
>>> Utah
>>>
>>> ________________________________________
>>> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
>>> [omc-boats-bounces@...
>>> ] On Behalf Of wheresjerry@... [wheresjerry@...]
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 11:25 AM
>>> To: omc-boats@...
>>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1969 buick v6 omc coil
>>>
>>> Ok, to be more specific, I have been having an issue of when my boat
>>> is wide open, it starts to sputter and seems to be gas starved.? What
>>> I have done so far is:
>>>
>>> 1-Replace gas line.
>>> 2-Install fuel separating filter.
>>> 3-Install new fuel pump.
>>> 4-Install new gas line from pump to carb.** ? ? Mechanic put a small,
>>> but noticeable kink in metal fuel line.? It appears that it could be
>>> restricting.
>>> 5-Changed plugs and wires.
>>> 6-Cleaned carb.
>>>
>>> All of this was done in order to stop fuel starvation issue, but to
>>> no avail.? :(
>>>
>>> This is the 2nd season out on the water, and I need to get to the
>>> bottom of this before I spend more money on my mechanic.
>>>
>>> I'd like to change out the kinked fuel line to a flexible line to
>>> avoid kinking, where can I find one?? Also, could my coil be shitting
>>> out at high rpm, causing rpm loss, which would cause the mechanical
>>> pump to fluctuate starving motor for fuel?
>>>
>>> I have posted questions in the past about this, but figured that a
>>> list as to what has been done might help solving this issue.? My
>>> mechanic also suggested it could be from a check valve in the gas
>>> tank?
>>>
>>> Any help would be grateful in solving this issue!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> karl/wheresjerry banach
>>> 105 browns pasture rd
>>> strafford, nh? 03884
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: <omc-boats-request@...>
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 12:00 PM
>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>>> Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 30
>>>
>>>> Send OMC-Boats mailing list submissions to
>>>> omc-boats@...
>>>>
>>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>>> omc-boats-request@...
>>>>
>>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>>> omc-boats-owner@...
>>>>
>>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>>> than "Re: Contents of OMC-Boats digest..."
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Today's Topics:
>>>>
>>>> ???1. Re: 1969 buick v6 omc coil ? (Lee Shuster)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>> Message: 1
>>>> Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 09:05:25 -0600
>>>> From: Lee Shuster <lee.k.shuster@...>
>>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1969 buick v6 omc coil ?
>>>> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>>>> <omc-boats@...>
>>>> Message-ID:
>>>> <A862F82A5046A24EAAB14F5651B69AE344AA0874E0@...>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>>
>>>> Karl,
>>>>
>>>> How have you tested the coil or determined that you need a new one??
>>>> They rarely fail, so I'm curious as to why you think you need a
>>>> replacement?
>>>> What resistance have you measured on the Primary side?? What voltage
>>>> are you seeing on the Secondary side????Have you checked the ballast
>>>> resistor and it's connections?? This might help :
>>>> http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coiltest-
>>>> manual.htm
>>>>
>>>> Your 155 OMC Buick-Jeep 3.7L V6 Ignition Coil is a "universal" style
>>>> canister-style, that uses an external ballast resistor. In other
>>>> words it is not unique to the Buick V6 and it is not an electrical
>>>> part that is "marine" rated for instrinsically safe operation. While
>>>> it is called-out as a 12-Volt coil in application, the ballast
>>>> resistor only allows 12V to flow during start-up cranking. Once the
>>>> engine is running the ballast resistor reduces the voltage to the
>>>> coil by approximately half. So in actual running operation the coil
>>>> does it's job on only 6 to 8 volts, adding further confusion.? Some
>>>> 12-volt coils are sold with their own internal ballast resistor, so
>>>> unless you want to bypass your existing EXTERNAL ballast resistor,
>>>> don't get one of those.? Keywords for your
>>>> search: 12-volt, external ballast resistor, oil-filled, canister-
>>>> style automotive ignition coil.
>>>>
>>>> If you want a "drop-in" stock replacement, just get a generic 12-
>>>> Volt (using external ballast resistor) cannister style coil, with a
>>>> similar diameter to the one you have. It the new one is slightly
>>>> smaller diameter you can shim it to the clamping bracket holds it
>>>> securely.?
>>>> Sometimes
>>>> replacement coils might be a little taller, so make sure you measure
>>>> the existing space for height and diameter.? You can find these
>>>> coils just about anywhere, ranging from $20.00 to $50.00 dollars
>>>> depending on whose name is on them , how they are externally
>>>> dressed,? and who's marketing them up.? You can pay a little more if
>>>> you want a higher ourput spark voltage, but I wouldn't go there
>>>> unless you are considering replacement of the stock points with an
>>>> electronic ignition system.? In other words, you are only
>>>> complicating your search by barking up the Buick or Jeep
>>>> 225 V6
>>>> (3.7L) tree.
>>>>
>>>> While you're at it, don't forget that the best coil in the world
>>>> won't be worth much unless you replace the the HT (High Tension)
>>>> secondary wires running to the distributor and from the distributor
>>>> to the spark plugs, including the distributor cap. You can get the
>>>> wire in bulk and cut to fit or buy a V6 or V8 set and route the
>>>> wires as neatly as you can.
>>>> The Buick
>>>> distributor is in a rather odd place compare d to most GM V engines,
>>>> so the distances the HT wires have to travel are a little different.
>>>> The
>>>> DISTRIBUTOR cap is something that is unique to the 225 Buick V6
>>>> (3.7L) and
>>>> that should be available at your local NAPA store. In other words.
>>>> do NOT
>>>> substitute any other GM V6 distributor or cap for the 150-155 hp OMC
>>>> -
>>>> Buick- Jeep 1964 - 1972 225 (3.7L) odd-fire V6.
>>>>
>>>> You can read more than you ever wanted to know about the world's
>>>> first mass-produced V6 at:
>>>> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/buick_v6.htm
>>>>
>>>> Lee Shuster
>>>> Utah
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ________________________________________
>>>> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
>>>> [omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of
>>>> wheresjerry@... [wheresjerry@...]
>>>> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 5:38 AM
>>>> To: omc-boats@...
>>>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1969 buick v6 omc coil ?
>>>>
>>>> Any one assist me in locating a ignition coil for my OMC Buick v-6
>>>> 155 hp
>>>> sterndrive....I have been searching all the usual places NAPA,
>>>> Advanced Auto, etc....it seems all pages do not carry a Buick v6
>>>> engine, and I do not want to purchase a wrong coil....most are
>>>> listed as v-8's and inline 6's...no v6.
>>>> thanks!!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> karl/wheresjerry banach
>>>> 105 browns pasture rd
>>>> strafford, nh? 03884
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> is on them
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>> OMC-Boats@...
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>> End of OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 30
>>>> *****************************************
>>>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 13:01:10 -0700
> From: jd <jdood@...>
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <8CB170DB-2ADE-431A-AEA1-8983DDF6237E@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> .......no i don' have one, but would like one. I am mere days
> from launching and turning my key for the first time to see what
> happens. but totally nervous about it. so being that these are
> old boats, it would be nice to know what other people do before
> turning the key for the first time at the beginning of the season.
> a sort of check list in order of events. tap the fuel filter glass
> first? prime the carb with fuel first? change the plugs? I've had
> my boat out so few times, don't have much of a clue on the official
> OMC starting procedure, and often have started it after a mechanic
> or someone has already been messing with it a few days earlier.
> Had heard somewhere about pumping the shift lever forward a few times
> to prime the engine. But that could be totally wrong. So anyone
> want to take a stab at making a little checklist? I'll get it started
> with an easy one....
>
> 1) take boat to ramp
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 13:13:34 -0700 (PDT)
> From: BLDFW <bldfw@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <958440.12799.qm@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Maybe I missed it in an earlier post....but I assume you have started it
> and run it to get it tuned right already even though you've not actually
> had it in the water?? I'd be doing all that stuff at home where I have all
> my tools.
>
> -Bill
> Dallas, TX
> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>
>
> --- On Mon, 6/15/09, jd <jdood@...> wrote:
>
> From: jd <jdood@...>
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Date: Monday, June 15, 2009, 3:01 PM
>
> .......no i don' have one,???but would like one.? ? ? I am mere days from
> launching and turning my key for the first time to see what happens.?
> ???but totally nervous about it.? ???so being that these are old boats,? ?
> it would be nice to know what other people do before turning the key for
> the first time at the beginning of the season.? ???a sort of check list in
> order of events.???tap the fuel filter glass first????prime the carb with
> fuel first????change the plugs?? I've had my boat out so few
> times,???don't have much of a clue on the official OMC starting
> procedure,???and often have started it after a mechanic or someone has
> already been messing with it a few days earlier.? ? ? Had heard somewhere
> about pumping the shift lever forward a few times to prime the
> engine.???But that could be totally wrong.? ? ? So anyone want to take a
> stab at making a little checklist?? I'll get it started with an easy
> one....
>
> 1) take boat to ramp
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Received on Monday, 15 June 2009

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