Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

Andy,

That's a great description of your time proven procedure. Thank you for pointing out the importance of proper ventilation and visual checks.

I would like to point out some terminology that may be confusing new owners and/or Evinrude-Johnson differences.

First, the Johnson-OMC single-lever remote control throttle-shifter has a little red sliding lever which is used increase the idle speed for cold starting. I believe this is what you are referring to as the "choke." It doesn't actually choke or enrich the fuel the way a choke does. The V-4's use a solenoid activated choke controlled from a dash-mounted switch, while all the 4-stroke GM engines have either divorced (V8's) or integral (automatic) chokes.

The Evinrude push-button remote controls, do not have a separate "START" idle adjustment level. Instead Evinrude (push-button) controls rely on labeling the side of the unit with a position indicator for moving the main throttle level to a "START" position.

And you are correct, as he original OMC Boat owners manuals do describe pumping the throttle to assist in cold starting, much like you would an auto of that era. That manual throttle pumping of course assumes that fuel has reached the carb float bowls.

At the beginning of a season, I always pre-start the engine at home running on the hose adapter, before I get anywhere near the lake. As a precaution I always turn the fuel petcock OFF, when I'm not in the boat. When I arrive at the lake, and I'm in the launch line here's my procedure:

1) Disconnect trailer lights from vehicle
2) Remove storage cover
3) Remove rear tie-downs and install drain plug
4) Loosen bow-eye winch strap and remove bow-eye safety chain.
5) Fold-back windshield and secure (Sportsman)
6) Lift Motor Hatch and visually inspect for leaks or anything out of the ordinary
7) Insure Battery terminals are tight
8) Turn Fuel Petcock ON
9) Check Engine Oil Level
10) Turn ON Main Electrical "DISCONNECT" Switch
11) Run Blower and confirm no fumes present
12) Check Fuel gauge
13) Turn Ignition key to ON
14) Move Shifter into Forward and Reverse and Confirm Ammeter movement
15) Turn over Starter Motor for no longer than 15 seconds, in neutral
16) Pump throttle for 10-15 seconds
17) Repeat steps 15 and 16 until first signs of firing. NEVER allow motor to actually start out of water.
18) Back boat down ramp and into water
19) While still firmly on trailer, lower sterndrive gently, four or five little pulses does the trick
20) Run blower and double check under engine hatch (You might have forgotten Step 3!)
21) Set red START LEVER to REAR POSITION (Only on Johnson-OMC Single lever)
22) Pump Throttle two or three times
23) Motor should start right up -- confirm idle speed is high (1500 RPM)(If you forgot step 19, shutdown and do it now!)
24) Before backing off trailer, confirm sterndrive Tattle-tell is working (located on Starboard pivot point)
25) Continue warming up for at least 2-3 minutes
26) Decrease idle speed below 1000 RPM
27) Launch boat off trailer using little or no thrust from prop
28) In colder weather (45 to 60F) it takes my boat about 15-20 min of idling to reach 140 F (normal operating temp).
29) Let engine idle at dock, while waiting for passengers. Recheck blower, cooling, and ammeter.
30) Lower start lever Idle before engaging gear. "Taxi" well beyond the "No Wake" buoys and apply throttle very gradually. I usually don't even try to plane the boat (traffic and condition permitting) until I see temps approach NORMAL (135 - 140 F).

-----Original Message-----
From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...ultimate.com] On Behalf Of Andy Perakes
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 3:06 PM
To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to inspect the engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel. After you've done that, run the blower for several minutes. I usually leave the engine hatch open until it is idling nicely as an added precaution. My Reveler has a lower engine access hatch that I usually remove too. You can do this in the water, but I usually make the first start on the trailer with the stern drive in a garbage can filled with water.

As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated vehicle that has been sitting a long time is to get the fuel flowing. First I do a steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with the choke pulled up and the drive in neutral. I still have the glass bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking, I check to be sure it has filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb has started filling too. After that and without cranking the engine, I remove the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do this at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will release the entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment near the carb).
Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see the fuel spraying from the 2 priming jets. Once I see the fuel spraying in, I probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable back in place and reinstall the flame arrestor. Then I start cranking again and will usually get a turnover/start within another 5-10 seconds of cranking. After it starts, I back off on the choke until I have a slightly fast idle (about 800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run until mildly warm (constantly checking the water flow). From there I'm ready to hit the launch ramp.
Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you have fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually start (assuming nothing else is wrong). Its probably worth adding that I still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which consists of dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just before fuel stavation. This causes a lot of smoke the first start and can lead to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of success doing it.

----- Original Message -----
From: "jd" <jdood@...>
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
<omc-boats@...>
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

> .......no i don' have one, but would like one. I am mere days from
> launching and turning my key for the first time to see what happens.
> but totally nervous about it. so being that these are old boats,
> it would be nice to know what other people do before turning the key for
> the first time at the beginning of the season. a sort of check list
> in order of events. tap the fuel filter glass first? prime the carb
> with fuel first? change the plugs? I've had my boat out so few times,
> don't have much of a clue on the official OMC starting procedure, and
> often have started it after a mechanic or someone has already been
> messing with it a few days earlier. Had heard somewhere about
> pumping the shift lever forward a few times to prime the engine. But
> that could be totally wrong. So anyone want to take a stab at making
> a little checklist? I'll get it started with an easy one....
>
> 1) take boat to ramp
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OMC-Boats mailing list
> OMC-Boats@...
> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats

_______________________________________________
OMC-Boats mailing list
OMC-Boats@...
http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
Received on Monday, 15 June 2009