Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 43

From: Ron Mathewson <*ron.mathewson@...*> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 05:43:51 -0700 (PDT) · ron.mathewson@...

-- 
<a href="http://www.engr.wisc.edu/~brodskye/"> Ethan Brodsky </a>
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You can find several MARINE sources for this carb under the following reference numbers:
Rochester Products Model Number: 2GC
Rochester Products #  7026180
OMC Carb                  #  772831
OMC Usage: 155 hp  from 1967 - 1972
I believe Sierra still have them as well as others including Mallory Marine. 
Look at it this way -- price of the carb, will be less than a fire!
Lee Shuster
On Jun 15, 2009, at 5:34 PM, Ted Robinson wrote:
1970 Seasport wth HUFR19E 155 V-6 (kaiser)
>During the pressure check part of conducting some preventive maint by changing the two inline fuel filters, one at the transom and one above the fuel tank at the inlet side of the electric fuel pump added by the prior owner, I noticed fuel pouring out of the top of the carb.
>Rather than trying to figure out why the float was sticking,I decided to just rebuild the carb.
>I purchased a kit locally @... auto parts and took the carb apart. It was surprisingly clean and the metal float appeared to be as it should, no cracks or indications of leakage.
>I did not boil the carb, just blew the passages out with compressed air put in the new parts, set level/drop & put her back together.
>Added a fuel press gauge @... the inlet to carb so I felt like I had a better picture for future troubleshooting.
>When tested before & after the final mounting of the carb the press was right @... 6psi and no leaky.
>Today she ran great for the first 5 tenth of an hour, then the RPM seemed to have a mind of its own.
>Popped the bonnet and there was fuel pouring out of the top of the carb again. Shut her down and very nicely asked my wife to paddle us back to the dock. Her response is not important here.
>I seem to have an intermittent sticking float. I do not see any reason to re kit the carb, but some of you may have an idea or know of a quirk in this carb system.
>New carbs are spendy. Can I use a local auto parts for the carb, or am stuck with marine only?
>Thanks in advance
>Ted Robinson
>Terrebonne,Oregon
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http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/CAT_PDF/InboardFuelSystem.PDF
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Yes, Lee, the "little red sliding lever" is exactly what I'm referring to. I figured for a 1st run checklist it was easier to just refer to it as a choke, but you are absolutely correct that it does not function as a true choke.  Thanks for clarifying that to all who might appreciate more than my short-cut terminology!
On backing down the ramp, its good to be cautions about fully dropping the drive unless you are absolutely sure of conditions at the launch ramp.  I launch in a very shallow creek with a poorly maintained, busted-up concrete ramp.  For me to back in with the unit down would generally mean packing the drive deep into mud or busting the prop or drive on a concrete block inconveniently relocated by some bored teen.  These props and drives are at such a premium that I've been to known to paddle the entire 1/2-mile out to the lake if conditions are bad enough.  Even if I think it's deep enough to run (with the unit just barely in the water), I still drag a paddle over the side to feel for depth, logs, rocks, etc.  Likewise, I always raise the unit before pulling out, though I drop it again to drain after I'm clear of the ramp (then raise it again ~1/2-way to travel).  I also raise my speed-o tube for the same reasons.  The funny part is when I warn "newbies"
 about conditions in the creek and they think their fancy jet drives are immune; eventually I'm sure to see them deep in the muck trying to pull the crud out of their plugged impellors.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Shuster" <lee.k.shuster@...>
To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'" <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
> Andy,
> 
> That's a great description of your time proven procedure. Thank you for pointing out the importance of proper ventilation and visual checks.
> 
> I would like to point out some terminology that may be confusing new owners and/or Evinrude-Johnson differences.
> 
> First, the Johnson-OMC single-lever remote control throttle-shifter has a little red sliding lever which is used increase the idle speed for cold starting. I believe this is what you are referring to as the "choke."  It doesn't actually choke or enrich the fuel the way a choke does. The V-4's use a solenoid activated choke controlled from a dash-mounted switch, while all the 4-stroke GM engines have either divorced (V8's) or integral (automatic) chokes.
> 
> The Evinrude push-button remote controls, do not have a separate "START" idle adjustment level. Instead Evinrude (push-button) controls rely on labeling the side of the unit with a position indicator for moving the main throttle level to a "START" position.
> 
> And you are correct, as he original OMC Boat owners manuals do describe pumping the throttle to assist in cold starting, much like you would an auto of that era. That manual throttle pumping of course assumes that fuel has reached the carb float bowls.
> 
> At the beginning of a season, I always pre-start the engine at home running on the hose adapter, before I get anywhere near the lake. As a precaution I always turn the fuel petcock OFF, when I'm not in the boat. When I arrive at the lake, and I'm in the launch line here's my procedure:
> 
> 1)  Disconnect trailer lights from vehicle
> 2)  Remove storage cover
> 3)  Remove rear tie-downs and install drain plug
> 4)  Loosen bow-eye winch strap and remove bow-eye safety chain.
> 5)  Fold-back windshield and secure (Sportsman)
> 6)  Lift Motor Hatch and visually inspect for leaks or anything out of the ordinary
> 7)  Insure Battery terminals are tight
> 8)  Turn Fuel Petcock ON
> 9)  Check Engine Oil Level
> 10) Turn ON Main Electrical "DISCONNECT" Switch
> 11) Run Blower and confirm no fumes present
> 12) Check Fuel gauge
> 13) Turn Ignition key to ON
> 14) Move Shifter into Forward and Reverse and Confirm Ammeter movement
> 15) Turn over Starter Motor for no longer than 15 seconds, in neutral
> 16) Pump throttle for 10-15 seconds
> 17) Repeat steps 15 and 16 until first signs of firing. NEVER allow motor to actually start out of water.
> 18) Back boat down ramp and into water
> 19) While still firmly on trailer, lower sterndrive gently, four or five little pulses does the trick
> 20) Run blower and double check under engine hatch (You might have forgotten Step 3!)
> 21) Set red START LEVER to REAR POSITION (Only on Johnson-OMC Single lever)
> 22) Pump Throttle two or three times
> 23) Motor should start right up -- confirm idle speed is high (1500 RPM)(If you forgot step 19, shutdown and do it now!)
> 24) Before backing off trailer, confirm sterndrive Tattle-tell is working (located on Starboard pivot point)
> 25) Continue warming up for at least 2-3 minutes
> 26) Decrease idle speed below 1000 RPM
> 27) Launch boat off trailer using little or no thrust from prop
> 28) In colder weather (45 to 60F) it takes my boat about 15-20 min of idling to reach 140 F (normal operating temp).
> 29) Let engine idle at dock, while waiting for passengers. Recheck blower, cooling, and ammeter.
> 30) Lower start lever Idle before engaging gear.  "Taxi" well beyond the "No Wake" buoys and apply throttle very gradually. I usually don't even try to plane the boat (traffic and condition permitting) until I see temps approach NORMAL (135 - 140 F).
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of Andy Perakes
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 3:06 PM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
> 
> The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to inspect the engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel.  After you've done that, run the blower for several minutes.  I usually leave the engine hatch open until it is idling nicely as an added precaution.  My Reveler has a lower engine access hatch that I usually remove too.  You can do this in the water, but I usually make the first start on the trailer with the stern drive in a garbage can filled with water.
> 
> As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated vehicle that has been sitting a long time is to get the fuel flowing. First I do a steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with the choke pulled up and the drive in neutral.  I still have the glass bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking, I check to be sure it has filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb has started filling too.  After that and without cranking the engine, I remove the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do this at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will release the entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment near the carb).
> Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see the fuel spraying from the 2 priming jets.  Once I see the fuel spraying in, I probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable back in place and reinstall the flame arrestor.  Then I start cranking again and will usually get a turnover/start within another 5-10 seconds of cranking. After it starts, I back off on the choke until I have a slightly fast idle (about 800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run until mildly warm (constantly checking the water flow).  From there I'm ready to hit the launch ramp.
> Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you have fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually start (assuming nothing else is wrong).  Its probably worth adding that I still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which consists of dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just before fuel stavation.  This causes a lot of smoke the first start and can lead to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of success doing it.
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jd" <jdood@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
> 
> 
>> .......no i don' have one,   but would like one.      I am mere days from
>> launching and turning my key for the first time to see what  happens.
>> but totally nervous about it.     so being that these are  old boats,
>> it would be nice to know what other people do before  turning the key for
>> the first time at the beginning of the season.      a sort of check list
>> in order of events.   tap the fuel filter glass  first?   prime the carb
>> with fuel first?   change the plugs?  I've had  my boat out so few times,
>> don't have much of a clue on the official  OMC starting procedure,   and
>> often have started it after a mechanic  or someone has already been
>> messing with it a few days earlier.       Had heard somewhere about
>> pumping the shift lever forward a few times  to prime the engine.   But
>> that could be totally wrong.      So anyone  want to take a stab at making
>> a little checklist?  I'll get it started  with an easy one....
>> 
>> 1) take boat to ramp
>> 
>> 
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