Re: [OMC-Boats] leaking caps

these are pretty cool, but mine have leaked constantly. today I am
going to pull them apart, replace gaskets, and see if i can get
them to stop spraying water. Have done all that before, along with
some silicone, and it barely made a difference.

Any suggestions or solutions?

   I am starting to wonder if that may be part or all of my cooling
issues. Not a lot of water lost out there, but probably some
water pressure.

On Jun 16, 2009, at 7:14 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:

> One of the cool (pun intended) engineering ideas that OMC engineers
> implemented was the solution to routing sea water up from the
> impeller pump through a power leg that could be both tilted and
> steered WITHOUT punching separate holes for water lines in the
> transom. (Remember everything passes thru the giant hole on on OMC
> Stringer where the intermediate housing meets the upper sterndrive,
> there is no transom mounted gimbal as on U-Joint driven drives.)
>
> The way OMC engineers accomplished this engineering feat was pretty
> clever: The made the large tilt bearings (trunnions) have concentric
> water passages. That's why you see the "caps;" some of which have
> the optional hose attachment fitting for test running in the shop on
> a garden hose. The starboard tilt bearing is the "UP" feed going
> from the output of the impeller to the engine and the PORT side is
> the return side. Pretty cool. But they took it further.
>
> The "Tattle-Tale" is a little hole that allows a small but steady
> stream of sea water to continually relieve itself at approximately
> a 45 degree angle to the aft off the transom port side when the
> impeller is pumping properly (when the engine is running).
>
> It's just another little detail that most OMC owners never
> appreciate or bother to monitor. It can alert you to potential
> cooling system issues long before an idiot light on the helm or even
> a calibrated temp gauge.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 16, 2009, at 6:43 AM, Ron Mathewson wrote:
>
>> Lee/B.C.,
>> I was looking at both of your pre-launch checklists and find
>> them both very helpful and comprehensive. I have one question
>> though, what is the "sterndrive Tattle-tell" that is mentioned? I
>> have not heard or seen reference to it.
>>
>> Ron Mathewson
>>
>>
>> From: "omc-boats-request@..." <omc-boats-request@...
>> >
>> To: omc-boats@...
>> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 9:58:57 PM
>> Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 43
>>
>> Note: Forwarded message is attached.
>>
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>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of OMC-Boats digest..."
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. Sticking Carb Float (Ted Robinson)
>> 2. Re: Sticking Carb Float (bchowk@...)
>> 3. Re: 1ST RUN CHECKLIST (Ethan Brodsky)
>> 4. Re: Sticking Carb Float (Lee Shuster (lib1))
>> 5. [OMC-Boats]
>> http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/CAT_PDF/
>> InboardFuelSystem.PDF
>> (Lee Shuster (lib1))
>> 6. Re: 1ST RUN CHECKLIST (Andy Perakes)
>>
>>
>> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>>
>> 1970 Seasport wth HUFR19E 155 V-6 (kaiser)
>> During the pressure check part of conducting some preventive maint
>> by changing the two inline fuel filters, one at the transom and one
>> above the fuel tank at the inlet side of the electric fuel pump
>> added by the prior owner, I noticed fuel pouring out of the top of
>> the carb.
>> Rather than trying to figure out why the float was sticking,I
>> decided to just rebuild the carb.
>> I purchased a kit locally @... auto parts and took the carb apart. It
>> was surprisingly clean and the metal float appeared to be as it
>> should, no cracks or indications of leakage.
>> I did not boil the carb, just blew the passages out with compressed
>> air put in the new parts, set level/drop & put her back together.
>> Added a fuel press gauge @... the inlet to carb so I felt like I had a
>> better picture for future troubleshooting.
>> When tested before & after the final mounting of the carb the press
>> was right @... 6psi and no leaky.
>> Today she ran great for the first 5 tenth of an hour, then the RPM
>> seemed to have a mind of its own.
>> Popped the bonnet and there was fuel pouring out of the top of the
>> carb again. Shut her down and very nicely asked my wife to paddle
>> us back to the dock. Her response is not important here.
>> I seem to have an intermittent sticking float. I do not see any
>> reason to re kit the carb, but some of you may have an idea or know
>> of a quirk in this carb system.
>> New carbs are spendy. Can I use a local auto parts for the carb, or
>> am stuck with marine only?
>> Thanks in advance
>> Ted Robinson
>> Terrebonne,Oregon
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>>
>> You really need to stick to the marine carb for safety sake and
>> depending on where you are you may run afoul of the law with an
>> auto carb.
>>
>> B.C.
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: "Ted Robinson" <tederobinson@...>
>>
>> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 16:34:19
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Sticking Carb Float
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>>
>> On Mon, 15 Jun 2009, Lee Shuster wrote:
>> > When I arrive at the lake, and I'm in the launch line here's my
>> > procedure:
>> >...
>>
>> That does sound very thorough and effective at preventing problems
>> (though
>> I seriously question the wisdom of turning the drive over *at all*
>> without
>> having water going to the pump), but I've been using a much simpler
>> procedure for ~5 years with pretty good success. I have the 155 hp
>> V-6 and
>> it has an internal automatic choke built into the carb (though I am
>> pretty
>> sure it isn't working, as the line is disconnected). Here is my
>> procedure:
>> - make sure drain plug is in
>> - launch boat with outdrive partially raised, tie to pier
>> - turn on blower for a minute or two
>> - usually peek under the engine compartment lid for water or fuel
>> - lower outdrive entirely
>> - turn key to run, give (electric) fuel pump a few seconds to
>> build up
>> pressure (can tell because the sound changes)
>> - pull throttle all the way back to idle, keep drive in neutral
>> - set throttle a tiny bit off idle (maybe 1/2" or so)
>> - crank until it fires, usually within 3-4 s
>> - if it won't start, pump throttle once or twice while cranking
>> (usually only necessary with air temperatures close to freezing)
>> - if it starts and stalls immediately, give it a bit more
>> throttle and
>> try again
>> - once it does start, let it high idle (~1000-1500 rpm) for 30 s
>> to a minute while everyone gets on
>> - pull fully back to idle (600-700 rpm)
>> - push "reverse" button and back away from the pier
>> - "taxi" out to "no wake" buoy 200 ft from shore at or just off
>> idle -
>> (2-3 minutes)
>> - smoothly but quickly advance throttle to full, then pull back
>> to ~3/4
>> throttle a few seconds later, once the boat is on plane
>>
>> I know it's bad to heavily load a cold engine, but I'm not
>> convinced that
>> warming up at idle is much better. For a modern engine, the best
>> thing you
>> can do is to warm them up rapidly at moderate power - I'm guessing
>> that's
>> less true for these 40 year old designs, but for cold-starts at
>> above-freezing temperatures, there should be little harm in immediate
>> application of moderate power. Even with older engines, warmup at
>> idle can
>> actually be detrimental, as they tend to run very rich when cold,
>> washing
>> away the oil film on the cylinder walls. I doubt there's any harm
>> for
>> the lengths of time and above-freezing temperatures we're talking
>> about
>> here, but it's something to consider.
>>
>> Ethan
>>
>>
>> --
>> Ethan Brodsky
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>>
>>
>> You can find several MARINE sources for this carb under the
>> following reference numbers:
>>
>> Rochester Products Model Number: 2GC
>> Rochester Products # 7026180
>> OMC Carb # 772831
>> OMC Usage: 155 hp from 1967 - 1972
>>
>> I believe Sierra still have them as well as others including
>> Mallory Marine.
>>
>> Look at it this way -- price of the carb, will be less than a fire!
>>
>> Lee Shuster
>>
>> On Jun 15, 2009, at 5:34 PM, Ted Robinson wrote:
>>
>>> 1970 Seasport wth HUFR19E 155 V-6 (kaiser)
>>> During the pressure check part of conducting some preventive maint
>>> by changing the two inline fuel filters, one at the transom and
>>> one above the fuel tank at the inlet side of the electric fuel
>>> pump added by the prior owner, I noticed fuel pouring out of the
>>> top of the carb.
>>> Rather than trying to figure out why the float was sticking,I
>>> decided to just rebuild the carb.
>>> I purchased a kit locally @... auto parts and took the carb apart. It
>>> was surprisingly clean and the metal float appeared to be as it
>>> should, no cracks or indications of leakage.
>>> I did not boil the carb, just blew the passages out with
>>> compressed air put in the new parts, set level/drop & put her back
>>> together.
>>> Added a fuel press gauge @... the inlet to carb so I felt like I had
>>> a better picture for future troubleshooting.
>>> When tested before & after the final mounting of the carb the
>>> press was right @... 6psi and no leaky.
>>> Today she ran great for the first 5 tenth of an hour, then the RPM
>>> seemed to have a mind of its own.
>>> Popped the bonnet and there was fuel pouring out of the top of the
>>> carb again. Shut her down and very nicely asked my wife to paddle
>>> us back to the dock. Her response is not important here.
>>> I seem to have an intermittent sticking float. I do not see any
>>> reason to re kit the carb, but some of you may have an idea or
>>> know of a quirk in this carb system.
>>> New carbs are spendy. Can I use a local auto parts for the carb,
>>> or am stuck with marine only?
>>> Thanks in advance
>>> Ted Robinson
>>> Terrebonne,Oregon
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>>
>>
>> http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/CAT_PDF/InboardFuelSystem.PDF
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>>
>> Yes, Lee, the "little red sliding lever" is exactly what I'm
>> referring to. I figured for a 1st run checklist it was easier to
>> just refer to it as a choke, but you are absolutely correct that it
>> does not function as a true choke. Thanks for clarifying that to
>> all who might appreciate more than my short-cut terminology!
>>
>> On backing down the ramp, its good to be cautions about fully
>> dropping the drive unless you are absolutely sure of conditions at
>> the launch ramp. I launch in a very shallow creek with a poorly
>> maintained, busted-up concrete ramp. For me to back in with the
>> unit down would generally mean packing the drive deep into mud or
>> busting the prop or drive on a concrete block inconveniently
>> relocated by some bored teen. These props and drives are at such a
>> premium that I've been to known to paddle the entire 1/2-mile out
>> to the lake if conditions are bad enough. Even if I think it's
>> deep enough to run (with the unit just barely in the water), I
>> still drag a paddle over the side to feel for depth, logs, rocks,
>> etc. Likewise, I always raise the unit before pulling out, though
>> I drop it again to drain after I'm clear of the ramp (then raise it
>> again ~1/2-way to travel). I also raise my speed-o tube for the
>> same reasons. The funny part is when I warn "newbies" about
>> conditions in the creek and they think their fancy jet drives are
>> immune; eventually I'm sure to see them deep in the muck trying to
>> pull the crud out of their plugged impellors.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Shuster" <lee.k.shuster@...
>> >
>> To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'" <omc-boats@...
>> >
>> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 6:30 PM
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
>>
>>
>> > Andy,
>> >
>> > That's a great description of your time proven procedure. Thank
>> you for pointing out the importance of proper ventilation and
>> visual checks.
>> >
>> > I would like to point out some terminology that may be confusing
>> new owners and/or Evinrude-Johnson differences.
>> >
>> > First, the Johnson-OMC single-lever remote control throttle-
>> shifter has a little red sliding lever which is used increase the
>> idle speed for cold starting. I believe this is what you are
>> referring to as the "choke." It doesn't actually choke or enrich
>> the fuel the way a choke does. The V-4's use a solenoid activated
>> choke controlled from a dash-mounted switch, while all the 4-stroke
>> GM engines have either divorced (V8's) or integral (automatic)
>> chokes.
>> >
>> > The Evinrude push-button remote controls, do not have a separate
>> "START" idle adjustment level. Instead Evinrude (push-button)
>> controls rely on labeling the side of the unit with a position
>> indicator for moving the main throttle level to a "START" position.
>> >
>> > And you are correct, as he original OMC Boat owners manuals do
>> describe pumping the throttle to assist in cold starting, much like
>> you would an auto of that era. That manual throttle pumping of
>> course assumes that fuel has reached the carb float bowls.
>> >
>> > At the beginning of a season, I always pre-start the engine at
>> home running on the hose adapter, before I get anywhere near the
>> lake. As a precaution I always turn the fuel petcock OFF, when I'm
>> not in the boat. When I arrive at the lake, and I'm in the launch
>> line here's my procedure:
>> >
>> > 1) Disconnect trailer lights from vehicle
>> > 2) Remove storage cover
>> > 3) Remove rear tie-downs and install drain plug
>> > 4) Loosen bow-eye winch strap and remove bow-eye safety chain.
>> > 5) Fold-back windshield and secure (Sportsman)
>> > 6) Lift Motor Hatch and visually inspect for leaks or anything
>> out of the ordinary
>> > 7) Insure Battery terminals are tight
>> > 8) Turn Fuel Petcock ON
>> > 9) Check Engine Oil Level
>> > 10) Turn ON Main Electrical "DISCONNECT" Switch
>> > 11) Run Blower and confirm no fumes present
>> > 12) Check Fuel gauge
>> > 13) Turn Ignition key to ON
>> > 14) Move Shifter into Forward and Reverse and Confirm Ammeter
>> movement
>> > 15) Turn over Starter Motor for no longer than 15 seconds, in
>> neutral
>> > 16) Pump throttle for 10-15 seconds
>> > 17) Repeat steps 15 and 16 until first signs of firing. NEVER
>> allow motor to actually start out of water.
>> > 18) Back boat down ramp and into water
>> > 19) While still firmly on trailer, lower sterndrive gently, four
>> or five little pulses does the trick
>> > 20) Run blower and double check under engine hatch (You might
>> have forgotten Step 3!)
>> > 21) Set red START LEVER to REAR POSITION (Only on Johnson-OMC
>> Single lever)
>> > 22) Pump Throttle two or three times
>> > 23) Motor should start right up -- confirm idle speed is high
>> (1500 RPM)(If you forgot step 19, shutdown and do it now!)
>> > 24) Before backing off trailer, confirm sterndrive Tattle-tell is
>> working (located on Starboard pivot point)
>> > 25) Continue warming up for at least 2-3 minutes
>> > 26) Decrease idle speed below 1000 RPM
>> > 27) Launch boat off trailer using little or no thrust from prop
>> > 28) In colder weather (45 to 60F) it takes my boat about 15-20
>> min of idling to reach 140 F (normal operating temp).
>> > 29) Let engine idle at dock, while waiting for passengers.
>> Recheck blower, cooling, and ammeter.
>> > 30) Lower start lever Idle before engaging gear. "Taxi" well
>> beyond the "No Wake" buoys and apply throttle very gradually. I
>> usually don't even try to plane the boat (traffic and condition
>> permitting) until I see temps approach NORMAL (135 - 140 F).
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>> ] On Behalf Of Andy Perakes
>> > Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 3:06 PM
>> > To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
>> >
>> > The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to
>> inspect the engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel.
>> After you've done that, run the blower for several minutes. I
>> usually leave the engine hatch open until it is idling nicely as an
>> added precaution. My Reveler has a lower engine access hatch that
>> I usually remove too. You can do this in the water, but I usually
>> make the first start on the trailer with the stern drive in a
>> garbage can filled with water.
>> >
>> > As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any
>> carburated vehicle that has been sitting a long time is to get the
>> fuel flowing. First I do a steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with
>> the choke pulled up and the drive in neutral. I still have the
>> glass bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking, I check to be sure it
>> has filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb has started
>> filling too. After that and without cranking the engine, I remove
>> the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do
>> this at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will
>> release the entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment
>> near the carb).
>> > Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see
>> the fuel spraying from the 2 priming jets. Once I see the fuel
>> spraying in, I probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable
>> back in place and reinstall the flame arrestor. Then I start
>> cranking again and will usually get a turnover/start within another
>> 5-10 seconds of cranking. After it starts, I back off on the choke
>> until I have a slightly fast idle (about 800-900 rpm on the tach)
>> and I let it run until mildly warm (constantly checking the water
>> flow). From there I'm ready to hit the launch ramp.
>> > Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know
>> you have fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it
>> will eventually start (assuming nothing else is wrong). Its
>> probably worth adding that I still follow the owner's manual
>> winterization procedure which consists of dumping ~1 pint of 30W
>> engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just before fuel
>> stavation. This causes a lot of smoke the first start and can lead
>> to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of
>> success doing it.
>> >
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "jd" <jdood@...>
>> > To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>> > <omc-boats@...>
>> > Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
>> > Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
>> >
>> >
>> >> .......no i don' have one, but would like one. I am mere
>> days from
>> >> launching and turning my key for the first time to see what
>> happens.
>> >> but totally nervous about it. so being that these are old
>> boats,
>> >> it would be nice to know what other people do before turning
>> the key for
>> >> the first time at the beginning of the season. a sort of
>> check list
>> >> in order of events. tap the fuel filter glass first? prime
>> the carb
>> >> with fuel first? change the plugs? I've had my boat out so
>> few times,
>> >> don't have much of a clue on the official OMC starting
>> procedure, and
>> >> often have started it after a mechanic or someone has already
>> been
>> >> messing with it a few days earlier. Had heard somewhere about
>> >> pumping the shift lever forward a few times to prime the
>> engine. But
>> >> that could be totally wrong. So anyone want to take a stab
>> at making
>> >> a little checklist? I'll get it started with an easy one....
>> >>
>> >> 1) take boat to ramp
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> >> OMC-Boats@...
>> >> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
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>> > OMC-Boats@...
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>>
>>
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Received on Tuesday, 16 June 2009