Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions

On Jun 18, 2009, at 3:23 PM, Lee Shuster wrote:

> >> So, sorry to be so redundant....but
> >> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
> straight to the ignition?
>
> It appears to be OKAY...I wouldn't change this.
>
> >> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
> >> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does the
> >> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in
> running?
>
> Come to think about it, I don't recall if mine was ever hooked up.
> Don't worry about it.
>
> >> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran
> great
> >> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
> >> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
> >> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do
> with
> >> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the
> type
> >> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in
> accidentally
> >> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>
> Hard to say, but your mechanical advance looks like it could cause
> some problems. Check it out for it's ability to freely move and
> clean it.
>
> Remember my prior e-mails expalined how to determine which type coil
> you have by measuring the coil's internal primary reistance with all
> wires removed using an ohm meter.
>

ugh......ohm meter.....ok, i'll dive into that next week - haha! am
perfectly comfortable with a tester light, but the whole measuring of
how well current passes through a wire with out actually testing
without actually having current passing through it loses me. and
which of the 1000 notches to set to ohm meter dial loses me. and
trying to decifer 12 pages of fine print in the manual about how to
use it loses me. So i put it away and get my tester light back out.
> My guess is your coil and ballast are fine. Not knowing the
> condition of your SECONDARY HT circuit (COIL, WIRE, DISTRIBUTOR CAP,
> ROTOR, and proper Firing ORDER , SPARK PLUGS) makes it difficult to
> rule out all ignition-related causes, but it sounds like you may
> still have fuel-related issues.
>
yeah, most of that stuff was replaced with as new last summer. so
it's looking like a fuel starvation kinda thing? It's when I'm
trying to get up on plane and there's a lot of strain on the engine -
that's when it bogs and the carb hisses. what exactly is that
hissing noise? Air escaping obviously, but normal sound when things
aren't tuned up right, or is that a "leak" hissing? as in bad gasket
or seal somewhere....?

** Also - adjustment of the two screws under the carb does what?
turning CW probably closes off something on each barrel - what is it
closing off - fuel to the carb or air to the carb? Later today i'm
getting it back on the water and messing with these, in hopes of
improving things for the weekend. Wish i understood what they
actually do when I turn them! As u can tell.....i barely know what
i'm talking about.

thanks!!

>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
> ] On Behalf Of jd
> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 3:45 PM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>
>
> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:08 PM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
>
> >
> > I'm now on a different computer with a larger screen and can more
> > clearly see you photos.
> >
> > You have a stock GM-DELCO-OMC distributor with aftermarket (perhaps
> > Pertronix?) electronic (pointless) ignition module. No points, no
> > condensor, just the sealed electronic module, which requires the two
> > wires: 1) red (+12) IGN ON power and it 2) black to DIST (-) coil.
> > So most likely it's a Pertronix Ignitor (I) use the links I sent
> > yesterday to further ID it. Perhaps a call to PerTronix support will
> > verify the 46AB-V4 number?
>
> ok - good! saw what looked to be points under the black cap and
> assumed it wasn't "pointless". So, sorry to be so redundant....but
> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
> straight to the ignition?
> >
> >
> > These are good units and you simply now need to verify that the
> > "brown stuff" is clean and free to move (don't loose the springs).
> > (Flush it out with WD-40). The" brown stuff" is the rusty mechanical
> > centrifugal advance, which works in conjunction with the vacuum
> > advance (the silver can on the side of the distributor) Is there a
> > vacuum hose hooked up to the can?
>
> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does the
> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in running?
> >
> >
> > At this point (bad pun) just verify static ignition timing, since
> > you don't have to worry about adjusting points dwell.
>
> i love this. always hated the thought of messing with the dwell
> stuff.
>
> > I can't remember (look it up on Petronix) but Ignitor I vs Ignitor
> > II offers different coil possibilities (with or without ballast).
> > I'm guessing yours is the Ignitor I. It's also possible it's not a
> > PerTronix as I think some others are out there as well.
>
> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran great
> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do with
> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the type
> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in accidentally
> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>
> feel i'm getting closer than ever to getting this baby running
> solid.......
>
> jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > Lee Shuster
> > utah
> >
> >
> > On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:36 PM, jd wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> On Jun 18, 2009, at 10:57 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>> JD,
> >>>
> >>> If you do a quick google on < DELCO 1110376 > and follow several
> >>> links
> >>>
> >>> You will see that number references Delco distributors used on
> >>> 1968-69 Jeep 225 V6's, as they were no longer being supplied to
> >>> OMC by GM after Buick sold the tooling to Kaiser-Jeep. (A 1970 OMC
> >>> engine, probably was really a leftover 1969.) So you most likely
> >>> have a distributor that originally came with an OMC engine, I'm
> >>> guessing that the 0910 sequence is a manufacturer's date code,
> >>> maybe 09 = 1969 and 10 = October ??.
> >>>
> >>> I couldn't find any relevant hits on the 46AB-V4 part
> >>>
> >>> Pictures are NOT clear enough to see if you have points or
> >>> Pertronix Ignitor replacement. You need to remove the rotor and
> >>> look underneath it.
> >>
> >> sorry for the crappy photos -will get more out later tonight with
> >> my real camera, but minimal time left at that point. that 2nd
> >> shot is with the the rotor removed. the brown stuff is the
> >> points. weird points, but points. brown it rusty metal.
> >> some sort of centrifugal point system or something i think i
> >> remember the mechanic mentioning.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> You also need to follow the red and black wires inside the
> >>> distributor body to determine what's there.
> >>
> >> i need to verify, but i believe i remember seeing black went up to
> >> the points, and red went to that rectangular black plastic part
> >> with the white number sticker on the side. a condenser? i'll
> >> verify wires.
> >>
> >> ok - so it's looking like, original distributor, aftermarket
> >> weird points ?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> <IMG_0469.jpg><IMG_0468.jpg>
> >>
> >>
> >>> You most likely have the stock coil which requires the ballast
> >>> resistor, refer to prior e-mail messages for how to measure the
> >>> coil's primary resistance (with all wires removed).
> >>>
> >>> Again, a stock breaker points/condensor setup will only have a
> >>> single wire coming from the (-) "DIST" side of the coil (and it's
> >>> almost always a BLACK wire).
> >>>
> >>> Sounds like you got plenty of other issues. Sometimes it gets hard
> >>> to isolate and troubleshoot one thing at a time.
> >>
> >> yeah - esp when you're trying to figure out what piece in the chain
> >> does what. Now I know what the ballast resistor does!
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Lee Shuster
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
> >>> ] On Behalf Of jd
> >>> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:21 AM
> >>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> >>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
> >>>
> >>> yes, my boat has been "molested" , esp with distributors last
> >>> summer, and has some non-stock things happening. But I
> think
> >>> the original distributer may have ended up back in there - I can
> >>> tell
> >>> because of the blue paint on it's base. Anyway......
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> JD:
> >>>>
> >>>> 1) What year is your boat (only applies to wiring COLOR changes)?
> >>>> What Distributor do you have? More importantly what's inside your
> >>>> distributor? (See item 3 below.)
> >>>
> >>> BOAT: '64 ENGINE: odd fire V-6 155 '70
> >>>
> >>> DISTRIBUTOR: Couldn't see any brand but little condensor
> looking
> >>> thing on underside of "points" says 46AB-V4, and the side of
> dist
> >>> body is stamped 1110376 9010
> >>>
> >>> HERE'S PHOTOS (taken with phone so kinda fuzzy):
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> OMC-Boats mailing list
> >>> OMC-Boats@...
> >>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
> >>
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> >
> >
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Received on Thursday, 18 June 2009