I had the same thing happen to my 1969 155hp v6, and took apart my
tilt system, tilt motor and all. Same symptoms, spinning motor,
shaft, bit no movement from the clutch pack at all. I pulled out the
screws covering the rear cap, removed the quadrant gear, and used a
pair of channel locks to turn the gear forcing the shaft to exit the
rear end, cap and all. The problem was that the rolled pin in the
shaft had sheared off allowing the shaft to spin, but not the worm
gear. Purchased a few pins, put all together by reversing removal
proceedure,cleaned up clutch pack housing, installed new set of OMC
gaskets for the clutch housing, added oil, replaced quadrent gear and
viola! My first time, and it worked!
I was able to buy for $75 thru craigs list the full tilt set up,
shaft, worm gear, clutch pack and gear shaft. These parts are
available online for about $900, so quite a saving. I had been
advised by my mechanic to grab these parts for spares as replacements,
and for $75 I couldn't go wrong!
Hope this helped, and good luck
Karl
Sent from my iPod
On Jun 19, 2009, at 12:00 PM, omc-boats-request@...
wrote:
> Send OMC-Boats mailing list submissions to
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>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Wiring questions (Lee Shuster (lib1))
> 2. Re: Wiring questions (jd)
> 3. Re: Wiring questions (Lee Shuster)
> 4. Re: Wiring questions (jd)
> 5. Re: Wiring questions (rees4@...)
> 6. Re: Wiring questions (jd)
> 7. Another tilt problem (Ethan Brodsky)
> 8. Re: Another tilt problem (Lee Shuster)
> 9. Re: Another tilt problem (Lee Shuster)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 13:08:57 -0600
> From: "Lee Shuster (lib1)" <lib1@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <44034033-688D-4C3A-A438-9662349F02B8@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
>
> I'm now on a different computer with a larger screen and can more
> clearly see you photos.
>
> You have a stock GM-DELCO-OMC distributor with aftermarket (perhaps
> Pertronix?) electronic (pointless) ignition module. No points, no
> condensor, just the sealed electronic module, which requires the two
> wires: 1) red (+12) IGN ON power and it 2) black to DIST (-) coil. So
> most likely it's a Pertronix Ignitor (I) use the links I sent
> yesterday to further ID it. Perhaps a call to PerTronix support will
> verify the 46AB-V4 number?
>
> These are good units and you simply now need to verify that the "brown
> stuff" is clean and free to move (don't loose the springs). (Flush it
> out with WD-40). The" brown stuff" is the rusty mechanical centrifugal
> advance, which works in conjunction with the vacuum advance (the
> silver can on the side of the distributor) Is there a vacuum hose
> hooked up to the can?
>
> At this point (bad pun) just verify static ignition timing, since you
> don't have to worry about adjusting points dwell. I can't remember
> (look it up on Petronix) but Ignitor I vs Ignitor II offers different
> coil possibilities (with or without ballast). I'm guessing yours is
> the Ignitor I. It's also possible it's not a PerTronix as I think
> some others are out there as well.
>
> Lee Shuster
> utah
>
>
> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:36 PM, jd wrote:
>
>>
>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 10:57 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> JD,
>>>
>>> If you do a quick google on < DELCO 1110376 > and follow several
>>> links
>>>
>>> You will see that number references Delco distributors used on
>>> 1968-69 Jeep 225 V6's, as they were no longer being supplied to OMC
>>> by GM after Buick sold the tooling to Kaiser-Jeep. (A 1970 OMC
>>> engine, probably was really a leftover 1969.) So you most likely
>>> have a distributor that originally came with an OMC engine, I'm
>>> guessing that the 0910 sequence is a manufacturer's date code,
>>> maybe 09 = 1969 and 10 = October ??.
>>>
>>> I couldn't find any relevant hits on the 46AB-V4 part
>>>
>>> Pictures are NOT clear enough to see if you have points or
>>> Pertronix Ignitor replacement. You need to remove the rotor and
>>> look underneath it.
>>
>> sorry for the crappy photos -will get more out later tonight with my
>> real camera, but minimal time left at that point. that 2nd shot
>> is with the the rotor removed. the brown stuff is the points.
>> weird points, but points. brown it rusty metal. some sort of
>> centrifugal point system or something i think i remember the
>> mechanic mentioning.
>>
>>
>>
>>> You also need to follow the red and black wires inside the
>>> distributor body to determine what's there.
>>
>> i need to verify, but i believe i remember seeing black went up to
>> the points, and red went to that rectangular black plastic part
>> with the white number sticker on the side. a condenser? i'll
>> verify wires.
>>
>> ok - so it's looking like, original distributor, aftermarket
>> weird points ?
>>
>>
>>
>> <IMG_0469.jpg><IMG_0468.jpg>
>>
>>
>>> You most likely have the stock coil which requires the ballast
>>> resistor, refer to prior e-mail messages for how to measure the
>>> coil's primary resistance (with all wires removed).
>>>
>>> Again, a stock breaker points/condensor setup will only have a
>>> single wire coming from the (-) "DIST" side of the coil (and it's
>>> almost always a BLACK wire).
>>>
>>> Sounds like you got plenty of other issues. Sometimes it gets hard
>>> to isolate and troubleshoot one thing at a time.
>>
>> yeah - esp when you're trying to figure out what piece in the chain
>> does what. Now I know what the ballast resistor does!
>>>
>>>
>>> Lee Shuster
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>>> ] On Behalf Of jd
>>> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:21 AM
>>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>>>
>>> yes, my boat has been "molested" , esp with distributors last
>>> summer, and has some non-stock things happening. But I think
>>> the original distributer may have ended up back in there - I can
>>> tell
>>> because of the blue paint on it's base. Anyway......
>>>
>>>>
>>>> JD:
>>>>
>>>> 1) What year is your boat (only applies to wiring COLOR changes)?
>>>> What Distributor do you have? More importantly what's inside your
>>>> distributor? (See item 3 below.)
>>>
>>> BOAT: '64 ENGINE: odd fire V-6 155 '70
>>>
>>> DISTRIBUTOR: Couldn't see any brand but little condensor looking
>>> thing on underside of "points" says 46AB-V4, and the side of dist
>>> body is stamped 1110376 9010
>>>
>>> HERE'S PHOTOS (taken with phone so kinda fuzzy):
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 14:45:24 -0700
> From: jd <jdood@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <881AC4A5-0DA8-4638-AA69-97CD2F07A760@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
>
> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:08 PM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm now on a different computer with a larger screen and can more
>> clearly see you photos.
>>
>> You have a stock GM-DELCO-OMC distributor with aftermarket (perhaps
>> Pertronix?) electronic (pointless) ignition module. No points, no
>> condensor, just the sealed electronic module, which requires the two
>> wires: 1) red (+12) IGN ON power and it 2) black to DIST (-) coil.
>> So most likely it's a Pertronix Ignitor (I) use the links I sent
>> yesterday to further ID it. Perhaps a call to PerTronix support will
>> verify the 46AB-V4 number?
>
> ok - good! saw what looked to be points under the black cap and
> assumed it wasn't "pointless". So, sorry to be so redundant....but
> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going straight
> to the ignition?
>>
>>
>> These are good units and you simply now need to verify that the
>> "brown stuff" is clean and free to move (don't loose the springs).
>> (Flush it out with WD-40). The" brown stuff" is the rusty mechanical
>> centrifugal advance, which works in conjunction with the vacuum
>> advance (the silver can on the side of the distributor) Is there a
>> vacuum hose hooked up to the can?
>
> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does the
> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in running?
>>
>>
>> At this point (bad pun) just verify static ignition timing, since
>> you don't have to worry about adjusting points dwell.
>
> i love this. always hated the thought of messing with the dwell
> stuff.
>
>> I can't remember (look it up on Petronix) but Ignitor I vs Ignitor
>> II offers different coil possibilities (with or without ballast).
>> I'm guessing yours is the Ignitor I. It's also possible it's not a
>> PerTronix as I think some others are out there as well.
>
> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran great
> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do with
> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the type
> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in accidentally
> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>
> feel i'm getting closer than ever to getting this baby running
> solid.......
>
> jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> Lee Shuster
>> utah
>>
>>
>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:36 PM, jd wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 10:57 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> JD,
>>>>
>>>> If you do a quick google on < DELCO 1110376 > and follow several
>>>> links
>>>>
>>>> You will see that number references Delco distributors used on
>>>> 1968-69 Jeep 225 V6's, as they were no longer being supplied to
>>>> OMC by GM after Buick sold the tooling to Kaiser-Jeep. (A 1970 OMC
>>>> engine, probably was really a leftover 1969.) So you most likely
>>>> have a distributor that originally came with an OMC engine, I'm
>>>> guessing that the 0910 sequence is a manufacturer's date code,
>>>> maybe 09 = 1969 and 10 = October ??.
>>>>
>>>> I couldn't find any relevant hits on the 46AB-V4 part
>>>>
>>>> Pictures are NOT clear enough to see if you have points or
>>>> Pertronix Ignitor replacement. You need to remove the rotor and
>>>> look underneath it.
>>>
>>> sorry for the crappy photos -will get more out later tonight with
>>> my real camera, but minimal time left at that point. that 2nd
>>> shot is with the the rotor removed. the brown stuff is the
>>> points. weird points, but points. brown it rusty metal.
>>> some sort of centrifugal point system or something i think i
>>> remember the mechanic mentioning.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> You also need to follow the red and black wires inside the
>>>> distributor body to determine what's there.
>>>
>>> i need to verify, but i believe i remember seeing black went up to
>>> the points, and red went to that rectangular black plastic part
>>> with the white number sticker on the side. a condenser? i'll
>>> verify wires.
>>>
>>> ok - so it's looking like, original distributor, aftermarket
>>> weird points ?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <IMG_0469.jpg><IMG_0468.jpg>
>>>
>>>
>>>> You most likely have the stock coil which requires the ballast
>>>> resistor, refer to prior e-mail messages for how to measure the
>>>> coil's primary resistance (with all wires removed).
>>>>
>>>> Again, a stock breaker points/condensor setup will only have a
>>>> single wire coming from the (-) "DIST" side of the coil (and it's
>>>> almost always a BLACK wire).
>>>>
>>>> Sounds like you got plenty of other issues. Sometimes it gets hard
>>>> to isolate and troubleshoot one thing at a time.
>>>
>>> yeah - esp when you're trying to figure out what piece in the chain
>>> does what. Now I know what the ballast resistor does!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Lee Shuster
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>>>> ] On Behalf Of jd
>>>> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:21 AM
>>>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>>>>
>>>> yes, my boat has been "molested" , esp with distributors last
>>>> summer, and has some non-stock things happening. But I think
>>>> the original distributer may have ended up back in there - I can
>>>> tell
>>>> because of the blue paint on it's base. Anyway......
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> JD:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1) What year is your boat (only applies to wiring COLOR changes)?
>>>>> What Distributor do you have? More importantly what's inside your
>>>>> distributor? (See item 3 below.)
>>>>
>>>> BOAT: '64 ENGINE: odd fire V-6 155 '70
>>>>
>>>> DISTRIBUTOR: Couldn't see any brand but little condensor looking
>>>> thing on underside of "points" says 46AB-V4, and the side of dist
>>>> body is stamped 1110376 9010
>>>>
>>>> HERE'S PHOTOS (taken with phone so kinda fuzzy):
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 16:23:17 -0600
> From: Lee Shuster <lee.k.shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
> To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID:
>
> <A862F82A5046A24EAAB14F5651B69AE344AA072150@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>>> So, sorry to be so redundant....but
>>> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
>>> straight to the ignition?
>
> It appears to be OKAY...I wouldn't change this.
>
>>> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
>>> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does the
>>> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in
>>> running?
>
> Come to think about it, I don't recall if mine was ever hooked up.
> Don't worry about it.
>
>>> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran
>>> great
>>> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
>>> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
>>> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do with
>>> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the
>>> type
>>> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in
>>> accidentally
>>> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>
> Hard to say, but your mechanical advance looks like it could cause
> some problems. Check it out for it's ability to freely move and
> clean it.
>
> Remember my prior e-mails expalined how to determine which type coil
> you have by measuring the coil's internal primary reistance with all
> wires removed using an ohm meter. My guess is your coil and ballast
> are fine. Not knowing the condition of your SECONDARY HT circuit
> (COIL, WIRE, DISTRIBUTOR CAP, ROTOR, and proper Firing ORDER , SPARK
> PLUGS) makes it difficult to rule out all ignition-related causes,
> but it sounds like you may still have fuel-related issues.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
> ] On Behalf Of jd
> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 3:45 PM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>
>
> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:08 PM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm now on a different computer with a larger screen and can more
>> clearly see you photos.
>>
>> You have a stock GM-DELCO-OMC distributor with aftermarket (perhaps
>> Pertronix?) electronic (pointless) ignition module. No points, no
>> condensor, just the sealed electronic module, which requires the two
>> wires: 1) red (+12) IGN ON power and it 2) black to DIST (-) coil.
>> So most likely it's a Pertronix Ignitor (I) use the links I sent
>> yesterday to further ID it. Perhaps a call to PerTronix support will
>> verify the 46AB-V4 number?
>
> ok - good! saw what looked to be points under the black cap and
> assumed it wasn't "pointless". So, sorry to be so redundant....but
> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
> straight to the ignition?
>>
>>
>> These are good units and you simply now need to verify that the
>> "brown stuff" is clean and free to move (don't loose the springs).
>> (Flush it out with WD-40). The" brown stuff" is the rusty mechanical
>> centrifugal advance, which works in conjunction with the vacuum
>> advance (the silver can on the side of the distributor) Is there a
>> vacuum hose hooked up to the can?
>
> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does the
> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in running?
>>
>>
>> At this point (bad pun) just verify static ignition timing, since
>> you don't have to worry about adjusting points dwell.
>
> i love this. always hated the thought of messing with the dwell
> stuff.
>
>> I can't remember (look it up on Petronix) but Ignitor I vs Ignitor
>> II offers different coil possibilities (with or without ballast).
>> I'm guessing yours is the Ignitor I. It's also possible it's not a
>> PerTronix as I think some others are out there as well.
>
> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran great
> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do with
> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the type
> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in accidentally
> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>
> feel i'm getting closer than ever to getting this baby running
> solid.......
>
> jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> Lee Shuster
>> utah
>>
>>
>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:36 PM, jd wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 10:57 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> JD,
>>>>
>>>> If you do a quick google on < DELCO 1110376 > and follow several
>>>> links
>>>>
>>>> You will see that number references Delco distributors used on
>>>> 1968-69 Jeep 225 V6's, as they were no longer being supplied to
>>>> OMC by GM after Buick sold the tooling to Kaiser-Jeep. (A 1970 OMC
>>>> engine, probably was really a leftover 1969.) So you most likely
>>>> have a distributor that originally came with an OMC engine, I'm
>>>> guessing that the 0910 sequence is a manufacturer's date code,
>>>> maybe 09 = 1969 and 10 = October ??.
>>>>
>>>> I couldn't find any relevant hits on the 46AB-V4 part
>>>>
>>>> Pictures are NOT clear enough to see if you have points or
>>>> Pertronix Ignitor replacement. You need to remove the rotor and
>>>> look underneath it.
>>>
>>> sorry for the crappy photos -will get more out later tonight with
>>> my real camera, but minimal time left at that point. that 2nd
>>> shot is with the the rotor removed. the brown stuff is the
>>> points. weird points, but points. brown it rusty metal.
>>> some sort of centrifugal point system or something i think i
>>> remember the mechanic mentioning.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> You also need to follow the red and black wires inside the
>>>> distributor body to determine what's there.
>>>
>>> i need to verify, but i believe i remember seeing black went up to
>>> the points, and red went to that rectangular black plastic part
>>> with the white number sticker on the side. a condenser? i'll
>>> verify wires.
>>>
>>> ok - so it's looking like, original distributor, aftermarket
>>> weird points ?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <IMG_0469.jpg><IMG_0468.jpg>
>>>
>>>
>>>> You most likely have the stock coil which requires the ballast
>>>> resistor, refer to prior e-mail messages for how to measure the
>>>> coil's primary resistance (with all wires removed).
>>>>
>>>> Again, a stock breaker points/condensor setup will only have a
>>>> single wire coming from the (-) "DIST" side of the coil (and it's
>>>> almost always a BLACK wire).
>>>>
>>>> Sounds like you got plenty of other issues. Sometimes it gets hard
>>>> to isolate and troubleshoot one thing at a time.
>>>
>>> yeah - esp when you're trying to figure out what piece in the chain
>>> does what. Now I know what the ballast resistor does!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Lee Shuster
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>>>> ] On Behalf Of jd
>>>> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:21 AM
>>>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>>>>
>>>> yes, my boat has been "molested" , esp with distributors last
>>>> summer, and has some non-stock things happening. But I think
>>>> the original distributer may have ended up back in there - I can
>>>> tell
>>>> because of the blue paint on it's base. Anyway......
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> JD:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1) What year is your boat (only applies to wiring COLOR changes)?
>>>>> What Distributor do you have? More importantly what's inside your
>>>>> distributor? (See item 3 below.)
>>>>
>>>> BOAT: '64 ENGINE: odd fire V-6 155 '70
>>>>
>>>> DISTRIBUTOR: Couldn't see any brand but little condensor looking
>>>> thing on underside of "points" says 46AB-V4, and the side of dist
>>>> body is stamped 1110376 9010
>>>>
>>>> HERE'S PHOTOS (taken with phone so kinda fuzzy):
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
> _______________________________________________
> OMC-Boats mailing list
> OMC-Boats@...
> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 16:13:01 -0700
> From: jd <jdood@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <CB126D3F-410C-4F2C-A2C8-E0506930074F@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
>
> On Jun 18, 2009, at 3:23 PM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>
>>>> So, sorry to be so redundant....but
>>>> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
>> straight to the ignition?
>>
>> It appears to be OKAY...I wouldn't change this.
>>
>>>> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
>>>> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does the
>>>> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in
>> running?
>>
>> Come to think about it, I don't recall if mine was ever hooked up.
>> Don't worry about it.
>>
>>>> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran
>> great
>>>> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
>>>> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
>>>> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do
>> with
>>>> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the
>> type
>>>> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in
>> accidentally
>>>> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>>
>> Hard to say, but your mechanical advance looks like it could cause
>> some problems. Check it out for it's ability to freely move and
>> clean it.
>>
>> Remember my prior e-mails expalined how to determine which type coil
>> you have by measuring the coil's internal primary reistance with all
>> wires removed using an ohm meter.
>>
>
> ugh......ohm meter.....ok, i'll dive into that next week - haha! am
> perfectly comfortable with a tester light, but the whole measuring of
> how well current passes through a wire with out actually testing
> without actually having current passing through it loses me. and
> which of the 1000 notches to set to ohm meter dial loses me. and
> trying to decifer 12 pages of fine print in the manual about how to
> use it loses me. So i put it away and get my tester light back out.
>> My guess is your coil and ballast are fine. Not knowing the
>> condition of your SECONDARY HT circuit (COIL, WIRE, DISTRIBUTOR CAP,
>> ROTOR, and proper Firing ORDER , SPARK PLUGS) makes it difficult to
>> rule out all ignition-related causes, but it sounds like you may
>> still have fuel-related issues.
>>
> yeah, most of that stuff was replaced with as new last summer. so
> it's looking like a fuel starvation kinda thing? It's when I'm
> trying to get up on plane and there's a lot of strain on the engine -
> that's when it bogs and the carb hisses. what exactly is that
> hissing noise? Air escaping obviously, but normal sound when things
> aren't tuned up right, or is that a "leak" hissing? as in bad gasket
> or seal somewhere....?
>
>
> ** Also - adjustment of the two screws under the carb does what?
> turning CW probably closes off something on each barrel - what is it
> closing off - fuel to the carb or air to the carb? Later today i'm
> getting it back on the water and messing with these, in hopes of
> improving things for the weekend. Wish i understood what they
> actually do when I turn them! As u can tell.....i barely know what
> i'm talking about.
>
> thanks!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>> ] On Behalf Of jd
>> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 3:45 PM
>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>>
>>
>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:08 PM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I'm now on a different computer with a larger screen and can more
>>> clearly see you photos.
>>>
>>> You have a stock GM-DELCO-OMC distributor with aftermarket (perhaps
>>> Pertronix?) electronic (pointless) ignition module. No points, no
>>> condensor, just the sealed electronic module, which requires the two
>>> wires: 1) red (+12) IGN ON power and it 2) black to DIST (-) coil.
>>> So most likely it's a Pertronix Ignitor (I) use the links I sent
>>> yesterday to further ID it. Perhaps a call to PerTronix support will
>>> verify the 46AB-V4 number?
>>
>> ok - good! saw what looked to be points under the black cap and
>> assumed it wasn't "pointless". So, sorry to be so redundant....but
>> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
>> straight to the ignition?
>>>
>>>
>>> These are good units and you simply now need to verify that the
>>> "brown stuff" is clean and free to move (don't loose the springs).
>>> (Flush it out with WD-40). The" brown stuff" is the rusty mechanical
>>> centrifugal advance, which works in conjunction with the vacuum
>>> advance (the silver can on the side of the distributor) Is there a
>>> vacuum hose hooked up to the can?
>>
>> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
>> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does the
>> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in
>> running?
>>>
>>>
>>> At this point (bad pun) just verify static ignition timing, since
>>> you don't have to worry about adjusting points dwell.
>>
>> i love this. always hated the thought of messing with the dwell
>> stuff.
>>
>>> I can't remember (look it up on Petronix) but Ignitor I vs Ignitor
>>> II offers different coil possibilities (with or without ballast).
>>> I'm guessing yours is the Ignitor I. It's also possible it's not a
>>> PerTronix as I think some others are out there as well.
>>
>> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran
>> great
>> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
>> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
>> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do with
>> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the
>> type
>> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in
>> accidentally
>> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>>
>> feel i'm getting closer than ever to getting this baby running
>> solid.......
>>
>> jeff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Lee Shuster
>>> utah
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:36 PM, jd wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 10:57 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> JD,
>>>>>
>>>>> If you do a quick google on < DELCO 1110376 > and follow several
>>>>> links
>>>>>
>>>>> You will see that number references Delco distributors used on
>>>>> 1968-69 Jeep 225 V6's, as they were no longer being supplied to
>>>>> OMC by GM after Buick sold the tooling to Kaiser-Jeep. (A 1970 OMC
>>>>> engine, probably was really a leftover 1969.) So you most likely
>>>>> have a distributor that originally came with an OMC engine, I'm
>>>>> guessing that the 0910 sequence is a manufacturer's date code,
>>>>> maybe 09 = 1969 and 10 = October ??.
>>>>>
>>>>> I couldn't find any relevant hits on the 46AB-V4 part
>>>>>
>>>>> Pictures are NOT clear enough to see if you have points or
>>>>> Pertronix Ignitor replacement. You need to remove the rotor and
>>>>> look underneath it.
>>>>
>>>> sorry for the crappy photos -will get more out later tonight with
>>>> my real camera, but minimal time left at that point. that 2nd
>>>> shot is with the the rotor removed. the brown stuff is the
>>>> points. weird points, but points. brown it rusty metal.
>>>> some sort of centrifugal point system or something i think i
>>>> remember the mechanic mentioning.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> You also need to follow the red and black wires inside the
>>>>> distributor body to determine what's there.
>>>>
>>>> i need to verify, but i believe i remember seeing black went up to
>>>> the points, and red went to that rectangular black plastic part
>>>> with the white number sticker on the side. a condenser? i'll
>>>> verify wires.
>>>>
>>>> ok - so it's looking like, original distributor, aftermarket
>>>> weird points ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <IMG_0469.jpg><IMG_0468.jpg>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> You most likely have the stock coil which requires the ballast
>>>>> resistor, refer to prior e-mail messages for how to measure the
>>>>> coil's primary resistance (with all wires removed).
>>>>>
>>>>> Again, a stock breaker points/condensor setup will only have a
>>>>> single wire coming from the (-) "DIST" side of the coil (and it's
>>>>> almost always a BLACK wire).
>>>>>
>>>>> Sounds like you got plenty of other issues. Sometimes it gets hard
>>>>> to isolate and troubleshoot one thing at a time.
>>>>
>>>> yeah - esp when you're trying to figure out what piece in the chain
>>>> does what. Now I know what the ballast resistor does!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Lee Shuster
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>>>>> ] On Behalf Of jd
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:21 AM
>>>>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>>>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>>>>>
>>>>> yes, my boat has been "molested" , esp with distributors last
>>>>> summer, and has some non-stock things happening. But I
>> think
>>>>> the original distributer may have ended up back in there - I can
>>>>> tell
>>>>> because of the blue paint on it's base. Anyway......
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> JD:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 1) What year is your boat (only applies to wiring COLOR changes)?
>>>>>> What Distributor do you have? More importantly what's inside your
>>>>>> distributor? (See item 3 below.)
>>>>>
>>>>> BOAT: '64 ENGINE: odd fire V-6 155 '70
>>>>>
>>>>> DISTRIBUTOR: Couldn't see any brand but little condensor
>> looking
>>>>> thing on underside of "points" says 46AB-V4, and the side of
>> dist
>>>>> body is stamped 1110376 9010
>>>>>
>>>>> HERE'S PHOTOS (taken with phone so kinda fuzzy):
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:21:22 -0400
> From: <rees4@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <20090619002122.FZ4VC.142925.root@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Hi, I would just like to toss into the mix that my boat acted the
> same way until I cleaned the spark arrestor. It was starved for air
> and would not plane out. After I cleaned it the boat ran well.
> Ed
> ---- jd <jdood@...> wrote:
>>
>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 3:23 PM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>>
>>>>> So, sorry to be so redundant....but
>>>>> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
>>> straight to the ignition?
>>>
>>> It appears to be OKAY...I wouldn't change this.
>>>
>>>>> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
>>>>> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does
>>>>> the
>>>>> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in
>>> running?
>>>
>>> Come to think about it, I don't recall if mine was ever hooked up.
>>> Don't worry about it.
>>>
>>>>> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran
>>> great
>>>>> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
>>>>> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
>>>>> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do
>>> with
>>>>> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the
>>> type
>>>>> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in
>>> accidentally
>>>>> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>>>
>>> Hard to say, but your mechanical advance looks like it could cause
>>> some problems. Check it out for it's ability to freely move and
>>> clean it.
>>>
>>> Remember my prior e-mails expalined how to determine which type coil
>>> you have by measuring the coil's internal primary reistance with all
>>> wires removed using an ohm meter.
>>>
>>
>> ugh......ohm meter.....ok, i'll dive into that next week - haha!
>> am
>> perfectly comfortable with a tester light, but the whole measuring
>> of
>> how well current passes through a wire with out actually testing
>> without actually having current passing through it loses me. and
>> which of the 1000 notches to set to ohm meter dial loses me. and
>> trying to decifer 12 pages of fine print in the manual about how to
>> use it loses me. So i put it away and get my tester light back
>> out.
>>> My guess is your coil and ballast are fine. Not knowing the
>>> condition of your SECONDARY HT circuit (COIL, WIRE, DISTRIBUTOR CAP,
>>> ROTOR, and proper Firing ORDER , SPARK PLUGS) makes it difficult to
>>> rule out all ignition-related causes, but it sounds like you may
>>> still have fuel-related issues.
>>>
>> yeah, most of that stuff was replaced with as new last summer. so
>> it's looking like a fuel starvation kinda thing? It's when I'm
>> trying to get up on plane and there's a lot of strain on the engine -
>> that's when it bogs and the carb hisses. what exactly is that
>> hissing noise? Air escaping obviously, but normal sound when things
>> aren't tuned up right, or is that a "leak" hissing? as in bad
>> gasket
>> or seal somewhere....?
>>
>>
>> ** Also - adjustment of the two screws under the carb does what?
>> turning CW probably closes off something on each barrel - what is it
>> closing off - fuel to the carb or air to the carb? Later today i'm
>> getting it back on the water and messing with these, in hopes of
>> improving things for the weekend. Wish i understood what they
>> actually do when I turn them! As u can tell.....i barely know
>> what
>> i'm talking about.
>>
>> thanks!!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>>> ] On Behalf Of jd
>>> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 3:45 PM
>>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:08 PM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm now on a different computer with a larger screen and can more
>>>> clearly see you photos.
>>>>
>>>> You have a stock GM-DELCO-OMC distributor with aftermarket (perhaps
>>>> Pertronix?) electronic (pointless) ignition module. No points, no
>>>> condensor, just the sealed electronic module, which requires the
>>>> two
>>>> wires: 1) red (+12) IGN ON power and it 2) black to DIST (-) coil.
>>>> So most likely it's a Pertronix Ignitor (I) use the links I sent
>>>> yesterday to further ID it. Perhaps a call to PerTronix support
>>>> will
>>>> verify the 46AB-V4 number?
>>>
>>> ok - good! saw what looked to be points under the black cap and
>>> assumed it wasn't "pointless". So, sorry to be so
>>> redundant....but
>>> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
>>> straight to the ignition?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> These are good units and you simply now need to verify that the
>>>> "brown stuff" is clean and free to move (don't loose the springs).
>>>> (Flush it out with WD-40). The" brown stuff" is the rusty
>>>> mechanical
>>>> centrifugal advance, which works in conjunction with the vacuum
>>>> advance (the silver can on the side of the distributor) Is there a
>>>> vacuum hose hooked up to the can?
>>>
>>> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
>>> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does the
>>> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in
>>> running?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> At this point (bad pun) just verify static ignition timing, since
>>>> you don't have to worry about adjusting points dwell.
>>>
>>> i love this. always hated the thought of messing with the dwell
>>> stuff.
>>>
>>>> I can't remember (look it up on Petronix) but Ignitor I vs Ignitor
>>>> II offers different coil possibilities (with or without ballast).
>>>> I'm guessing yours is the Ignitor I. It's also possible it's not a
>>>> PerTronix as I think some others are out there as well.
>>>
>>> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran
>>> great
>>> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell to
>>> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
>>> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do with
>>> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the
>>> type
>>> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in
>>> accidentally
>>> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>>>
>>> feel i'm getting closer than ever to getting this baby running
>>> solid.......
>>>
>>> jeff
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Lee Shuster
>>>> utah
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 12:36 PM, jd wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 10:57 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> JD,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If you do a quick google on < DELCO 1110376 > and follow several
>>>>>> links
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You will see that number references Delco distributors used on
>>>>>> 1968-69 Jeep 225 V6's, as they were no longer being supplied to
>>>>>> OMC by GM after Buick sold the tooling to Kaiser-Jeep. (A 1970
>>>>>> OMC
>>>>>> engine, probably was really a leftover 1969.) So you most likely
>>>>>> have a distributor that originally came with an OMC engine, I'm
>>>>>> guessing that the 0910 sequence is a manufacturer's date code,
>>>>>> maybe 09 = 1969 and 10 = October ??.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I couldn't find any relevant hits on the 46AB-V4 part
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Pictures are NOT clear enough to see if you have points or
>>>>>> Pertronix Ignitor replacement. You need to remove the rotor and
>>>>>> look underneath it.
>>>>>
>>>>> sorry for the crappy photos -will get more out later tonight with
>>>>> my real camera, but minimal time left at that point. that 2nd
>>>>> shot is with the the rotor removed. the brown stuff is the
>>>>> points. weird points, but points. brown it rusty metal.
>>>>> some sort of centrifugal point system or something i think i
>>>>> remember the mechanic mentioning.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> You also need to follow the red and black wires inside the
>>>>>> distributor body to determine what's there.
>>>>>
>>>>> i need to verify, but i believe i remember seeing black went up
>>>>> to
>>>>> the points, and red went to that rectangular black plastic part
>>>>> with the white number sticker on the side. a condenser? i'll
>>>>> verify wires.
>>>>>
>>>>> ok - so it's looking like, original distributor, aftermarket
>>>>> weird points ?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <IMG_0469.jpg><IMG_0468.jpg>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> You most likely have the stock coil which requires the ballast
>>>>>> resistor, refer to prior e-mail messages for how to measure the
>>>>>> coil's primary resistance (with all wires removed).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Again, a stock breaker points/condensor setup will only have a
>>>>>> single wire coming from the (-) "DIST" side of the coil (and it's
>>>>>> almost always a BLACK wire).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sounds like you got plenty of other issues. Sometimes it gets
>>>>>> hard
>>>>>> to isolate and troubleshoot one thing at a time.
>>>>>
>>>>> yeah - esp when you're trying to figure out what piece in the
>>>>> chain
>>>>> does what. Now I know what the ballast resistor does!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Lee Shuster
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>>>>>> ] On Behalf Of jd
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:21 AM
>>>>>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
>>>>>>
>>>>>> yes, my boat has been "molested" , esp with distributors last
>>>>>> summer, and has some non-stock things happening. But I
>>> think
>>>>>> the original distributer may have ended up back in there - I can
>>>>>> tell
>>>>>> because of the blue paint on it's base. Anyway......
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> JD:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 1) What year is your boat (only applies to wiring COLOR
>>>>>>> changes)?
>>>>>>> What Distributor do you have? More importantly what's inside
>>>>>>> your
>>>>>>> distributor? (See item 3 below.)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> BOAT: '64 ENGINE: odd fire V-6 155 '70
>>>>>>
>>>>>> DISTRIBUTOR: Couldn't see any brand but little condensor
>>> looking
>>>>>> thing on underside of "points" says 46AB-V4, and the side of
>>> dist
>>>>>> body is stamped 1110376 9010
>>>>>>
>>>>>> HERE'S PHOTOS (taken with phone so kinda fuzzy):
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>>>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>>>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 23:40:30 -0700
> From: jd <jdood@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring questions
> To: "<rees4@...>" <rees4@...>
> Cc: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <516E6E36-40B0-4E34-AF89-14008DA530F5@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed;
> delsp=yes
>
> Wow. U may have just hit on something. Yes, I'm gonna clean my spark
> arrestor tomorrow for sure......but even more important....u just made
> me realize I didn't start experiencing this prob until I put my
> cowling back on. And my cowling no longer has it's vents on the
> side! However, I know I pulled it off to see what was happening right
> after. And the prob continued. But maybe that air starvation
> triggered it to go into some sort of tail spin. It ran great for 20
> mins w/o cowling. Put cowling on. Prob starts. Pull cowling off.
> Probs continue.
>
> On Jun 18, 2009, at 5:21 PM, <rees4@...> wrote:
>
>> Hi, I would just like to toss into the mix that my boat acted the
>> same way until I cleaned the spark arrestor. It was starved for air
>> and would not plane out. After I cleaned it the boat ran well.
>> Ed
>> ---- jd <jdood@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> On Jun 18, 2009, at 3:23 PM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>>>
>>>>>> So, sorry to be so redundant....but
>>>>>> the red wire to the pos of coil as it is now, same as going
>>>> straight to the ignition?
>>>>
>>>> It appears to be OKAY...I wouldn't change this.
>>>>
>>>>>> no! and i've alway wondered why. asked mechanic and got the "u
>>>>>> don't need that" answer. i'll put a hose on it. where does
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> other end go? any noticeable difference with and without in
>>>> running?
>>>>
>>>> Come to think about it, I don't recall if mine was ever hooked up.
>>>> Don't worry about it.
>>>>
>>>>>> so with all this in mind.......in theory, since it starts, ran
>>>> great
>>>>>> for first 20 minutes, since electronic points, since no dwell
>>>>>> to
>>>>>> adjust........the weird acceleration stuff i am experiencing
>>>>>> (mentioned in todays separate email) should NOT be having to do
>>>> with
>>>>>> timing? The ballast resistor is still in use. If I had the
>>>> type
>>>>>> of pertronix that DIDN'T require the BR, yet mine was in
>>>> accidentally
>>>>>> in use anyway....would that cause any noticeable running probs?
>>>>
>>>> Hard to say, but your mechanical advance looks like it could cause
>>>> some problems. Check it out for it's ability to freely move and
>>>> clean it.
>>>>
>>>> Remember my prior e-mails expalined how to determine which type
>>>> coil
>>>> you have by measuring the coil's internal primary reistance with
>>>> all
>>>> wires removed using an ohm meter.
>>>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:09:25 -0500 (CDT)
> From: Ethan Brodsky <brodskye@...>
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem
> To: omc-boats@...
> Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0906190947050.21575@...>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
>
> Unfortunately I have to join the ranks of folks on this list having
> problems with their tilt system...
>
> Has anyone here pulled apart the actual tilt drive shaft on an OMC
> sterndrive ('70 155 hp)? I'm talking about the longitudinal shaft
> that runs
> from the tilt motor through the firewall and along the top of the tilt
> clutch housing. My tilt stopped working yesterday afternoon after a
> day of
> diving. The tilt motor is still spinning, but the worm gear is not
> moving
> at all, so the drive was stuck down.
>
> I suspected a bad hammer-blow coupling, so I pulled the motor and
> coupler
> out from the inside, but it looks fine. The motor looks and works
> okay as
> well (a bit of corrosion, due to water leaking in throgh the tilt
> housing),
> though it does turn slightly faster in one direction than the other
> when
> tested unloaded.
>
> My understanding is that a slipping tilt clutch would still allow
> the worm
> gear to rotate, so if the worm gear isn't turning, then the only
> possibility I can come up with is that that longitudinal shaft has
> failed.
>
> The "flat-blade drive" on each side (motor and shaft) is intact (motor
> clearly is, the external shaft feels okay, but it is a tough reach;
> I will
> look with a mirror this afternoon when I'm not working in the
> dark). Are
> there any other couplers in the external shaft? It's hard for me to
> believe the shaft would've sheared - it seems like it would've
> failed at
> one of the couplers. The other possibility is that the hammer-blow
> failed
> in some way that isn't visually apparent, but I don't think there's
> even
> room in there for it to spread apart.
>
> I was just wondering if anyone on this list had pulled that shaft
> out. I'm
> concerned that it might be difficult to get back in or to reseal the
> endcap
> (which doesn't seal anyway - I'm pretty sure that's where water
> leaks in).
> I can't decide if I should put it all together and try it again before
> further disassembling things (the safe choice, but very annoying
> considering how difficult it is to get the tilt motor in and out),
> or just
> pull it apart and confirm that everything else is okay (also probably
> better for the motor, since it seems to be the fragile component, and
> repeated installation can't be good for it).
>
> I presume the procedure is to take off the sector gear (so the clutch
> housing can rotate freely), remove the retaining ring at the end of
> the
> longitudinal tilt shaft housing, then rotate the tilt clutch to
> "spit out"
> the worm gear shaft?
>
> Ethan
>
>
> --
> Ethan Brodsky
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 09:47:32 -0600
> From: Lee Shuster <lee.k.shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem
> To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID:
>
> <A862F82A5046A24EAAB14F5651B69AE344AA072158@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Internally coupled? Yes. There is a small pin that joins the worm
> gear to the driven shaft. Wonder if that broke? (implying longitude
> shaft failure to turn the worm gear).
>
> If you remove the end-cap retaining circlip on the end of the shaft,
> try to be careful not to damage the groove or you'll need the hard-
> to-find external reatiner kit in order to avoid a whole new
> intermediate housing.
>
> BTW, the BRP-OMC catalog is also duplicated at the CROWLEY MARINE
> website. They also show clearly what OMC parts are NLA from BRP, at
> least back to 1967-1/2 when the 5-bolt cap drives were introduced.
>
> Lee
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
> ] On Behalf Of Ethan Brodsky
> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 9:09 AM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem
>
> Unfortunately I have to join the ranks of folks on this list having
> problems with their tilt system...
>
> Has anyone here pulled apart the actual tilt drive shaft on an OMC
> sterndrive ('70 155 hp)? I'm talking about the longitudinal shaft
> that runs from the tilt motor through the firewall and along the top
> of the tilt clutch housing. My tilt stopped working yesterday
> afternoon after a day of diving. The tilt motor is still spinning,
> but the worm gear is not moving at all, so the drive was stuck down.
>
> I suspected a bad hammer-blow coupling, so I pulled the motor and
> coupler out from the inside, but it looks fine. The motor looks and
> works okay as well (a bit of corrosion, due to water leaking in
> throgh the tilt housing), though it does turn slightly faster in one
> direction than the other when tested unloaded.
>
> My understanding is that a slipping tilt clutch would still allow
> the worm gear to rotate, so if the worm gear isn't turning, then the
> only possibility I can come up with is that that longitudinal shaft
> has failed.
>
> The "flat-blade drive" on each side (motor and shaft) is intact
> (motor clearly is, the external shaft feels okay, but it is a tough
> reach; I will look with a mirror this afternoon when I'm not working
> in the dark). Are there any other couplers in the external shaft?
> It's hard for me to believe the shaft would've sheared - it seems
> like it would've failed at one of the couplers. The other
> possibility is that the hammer-blow failed in some way that isn't
> visually apparent, but I don't think there's even room in there for
> it to spread apart.
>
> I was just wondering if anyone on this list had pulled that shaft
> out. I'm concerned that it might be difficult to get back in or to
> reseal the endcap (which doesn't seal anyway - I'm pretty sure
> that's where water leaks in).
> I can't decide if I should put it all together and try it again
> before further disassembling things (the safe choice, but very
> annoying considering how difficult it is to get the tilt motor in
> and out), or just pull it apart and confirm that everything else is
> okay (also probably better for the motor, since it seems to be the
> fragile component, and repeated installation can't be good for it).
>
> I presume the procedure is to take off the sector gear (so the
> clutch housing can rotate freely), remove the retaining ring at the
> end of the longitudinal tilt shaft housing, then rotate the tilt
> clutch to "spit out"
> the worm gear shaft?
>
> Ethan
>
>
> --
> Ethan Brodsky
> _______________________________________________
> OMC-Boats mailing list
> OMC-Boats@...
> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 09:50:39 -0600
> From: Lee Shuster <lee.k.shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem
> To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID:
>
> <A862F82A5046A24EAAB14F5651B69AE344AA072159@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>>> I presume the procedure is to take off the sector gear (so the
>>> clutch housing can rotate freely), remove the retaining ring at
>>> the end of the longitudinal tilt shaft housing, then rotate the
>>> tilt clutch to "spit out"
> the worm gear shaft?
>
> Yeah, without double-checking the shop manual, that sounds right.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
> ] On Behalf Of Ethan Brodsky
> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 9:09 AM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem
>
> Unfortunately I have to join the ranks of folks on this list having
> problems with their tilt system...
>
> Has anyone here pulled apart the actual tilt drive shaft on an OMC
> sterndrive ('70 155 hp)? I'm talking about the longitudinal shaft
> that runs from the tilt motor through the firewall and along the top
> of the tilt clutch housing. My tilt stopped working yesterday
> afternoon after a day of diving. The tilt motor is still spinning,
> but the worm gear is not moving at all, so the drive was stuck down.
>
> I suspected a bad hammer-blow coupling, so I pulled the motor and
> coupler out from the inside, but it looks fine. The motor looks and
> works okay as well (a bit of corrosion, due to water leaking in
> throgh the tilt housing), though it does turn slightly faster in one
> direction than the other when tested unloaded.
>
> My understanding is that a slipping tilt clutch would still allow
> the worm gear to rotate, so if the worm gear isn't turning, then the
> only possibility I can come up with is that that longitudinal shaft
> has failed.
>
> The "flat-blade drive" on each side (motor and shaft) is intact
> (motor clearly is, the external shaft feels okay, but it is a tough
> reach; I will look with a mirror this afternoon when I'm not working
> in the dark). Are there any other couplers in the external shaft?
> It's hard for me to believe the shaft would've sheared - it seems
> like it would've failed at one of the couplers. The other
> possibility is that the hammer-blow failed in some way that isn't
> visually apparent, but I don't think there's even room in there for
> it to spread apart.
>
> I was just wondering if anyone on this list had pulled that shaft
> out. I'm concerned that it might be difficult to get back in or to
> reseal the endcap (which doesn't seal anyway - I'm pretty sure
> that's where water leaks in).
> I can't decide if I should put it all together and try it again
> before further disassembling things (the safe choice, but very
> annoying considering how difficult it is to get the tilt motor in
> and out), or just pull it apart and confirm that everything else is
> okay (also probably better for the motor, since it seems to be the
> fragile component, and repeated installation can't be good for it).
>
> I presume the procedure is to take off the sector gear (so the
> clutch housing can rotate freely), remove the retaining ring at the
> end of the longitudinal tilt shaft housing, then rotate the tilt
> clutch to "spit out"
> the worm gear shaft?
>
> Ethan
>
>
> --
> Ethan Brodsky
> _______________________________________________
> OMC-Boats mailing list
> OMC-Boats@...
> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> OMC-Boats mailing list
> OMC-Boats@...
> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
> End of OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 57
> *****************************************
>
Received on Friday, 19 June 2009
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