There's a thermostat? I suppose there are some conditions where one would want to restrict water flow until the engine warms up to a nice smooth idle, like extremely cold water operation. But frankly, I can't imagine why, under normal boating conditions, one would want or need a thermostat. I haven't had any cooling problems, but if I did, I'd toss out the thermostat first thing. Is it really necessary?
-Doug Julien
--- On Mon, 6/29/09, jd <jdood@...> wrote:
> From: jd <jdood@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Carb Issue? Or maybe Water issue?
> To: heavy@..., "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...>
> Date: Monday, June 29, 2009, 5:17 PM
>
> On Jun 28, 2009, at 7:46 PM, heavy wrote:
>
> > Thanks again for the tip Jeff. I replaced the hoses
> with clear ones and could track the water flow in and out of
> the bell housing. Pretty neat.
> >
> > In my driveway I hooked up the sterndrive to a garden
> hose and idled fast at around 1500-2000rpm. The water temp
> gradually increased to 130, 140, 150. Water flow was
> great and I felt the hoses to check the temperature. Facing
> the engine, the hose on the lower left side was twice as
> warm as the right side, and consequently the BARR exhaust
> manifold was hot to the touch, the other side warm.
>
> i have the OMC cylindrical manifolds.....but same exact
> thing with mine........left one is always hotter than
> right. we both have that happening with the
> same year....perhaps that means its supposed to be that
> way? anyone?
>
> cold water comes in on bottom and heated water goes out the
> top of the manifolds, so i think it's normal for top to be
> hotter. but one side hotter than other side
> doesn't make sense.
> >
> >
> > I waited a bit longer and increased throttle, I
> noticed the water flow on the warmer side slowed down to a
> stream, the other side seem to stay about the same. Very
> strange. Temp gradually increased to 160, 170, 180
> before I backed it down.
>
>
> do you have the pivot cap with the garden hose
> adapter/connection? i do. i
> recently sealed my pivot caps up to the point of zero
> leakage....but i have zero tell tale now. not
> sure i ever had one. thinking maybe the
> tell tale was on the stock pivot cap that somewhere along
> the line got replaced with the garden hose pivot cap
> >
> >
> > Maybe overheating was the reason the boat coughed when
> running all out. We have taken the boat out many times just
> cruising, and then maybe a trip through the speed zone, then
> back to idle again and not a problem. Longer runs seem to be
> a different story.
> >
> > -Gas can was vented
> > -Airflow was excellent
> > -Fires and runs great
> > -Carb seems be working fine
> > -BARR exhaust manifolds are clean inside and were new
> 2 years ago
> > -water stream out of stern was cool to warm
> >
> > Maybe a bad thermostat or housing? Why would one side
> be warmer than the other. Anybody got any ideas?
>
> i took my thermostat completely out just to eliminate it as
> a potential problem. your probs sound very
> similar to mine - clean manifolds, starts great,
> rebuilt carb, good airflow with cowling off.
> however.......i am now leaning towards some electrical thing
> for my temp issue (*more on that in separate post)
>
>
> >
> >
> > Jeff L
> >
> > From: "jd" <jdood@...>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 28, 2009 9:18 AM
> > To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and
> 70's" <omc-boats@...>
> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Carb Issue? Or maybe Water
> issue?
> >
> >
> > On Jun 26, 2009, at 3:41 PM, Jeff LaCoste wrote:
> >
> > > After many weeks of slower rides around the lake,
> last week I took
> > > the 1964 Johnson Deluxe V6 155hp out into open
> water to run it and
> > > see what would happen. Got off to a slow start
> and steadily climbed
> > > up to 3/4 throttle for a couple miles when it
> started to cough,
> > > once, then twice, so we slowed and turned back
> for the dock. It
> > > seemed to be running smooth once again, so we
> increased the speed
> > > and once again it coughed and sputtered.
> > >
> > > We took off the cover and idled for a bit and
> after a while it quit
> > > and wouldn't start. We waited and tried again but
> nothing. We
> > > thought maybe over heating, or no gas. We noticed
> the Barr exhaust
> > > manifolds were a little warmer than usual, bottom
> hoses were warm,
> > > top were cooler. Thermostat was replaced last
> year. We were getting
> > > good flow from the back stream. Water flow seemed
> a little low in
> > > the large water Gates hose when squeezed.
> >
> > a cool tip i picked up from someone on this list last
> year......change
> > out your hoses to clear hoses. I did all mine, didn't
> take that
> > long, Home Depot has hosing, heat hasn't seemed to be
> an issue
> > with melting etc. Instantly shows you the water moving
> through the
> > engine and where. And it just looks neat seeing the
> water
> > circulating around. I still have mine on and plan to
> keep them
> > on until i get everything solid.
> > >
> > >
> > > When cranking the engine we couldn't see much
> fuel going into the
> > > carb. Fuel was supplied by a 6 gallon tank
> (temporary while
> > > refurbishing the old tank) connected to the
> mechanical fuel pump.
> > >
> > > The other day I go out to start troubleshooting,
> get in the boat,
> > > turn on the water to the stern drive, and it
> fires right up! Go
> > > figure.
> > >
> > > Could be overheating. Maybe the float needs to be
> adjusted, if so do
> > > I bend the tang up or down? Last year I replaced
> the float with a
> > > new one that had a pinhole.
> > >
> > > anyone have any thoughts before I try it out
> again this weekend?
> >
> >
> > just curious, probably unrelated - but is your cowling
> vented?
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > thanks.
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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Received on Monday, 29 June 2009
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