Re: [OMC-Boats] Oil change procedures PHOTOS?

Unfortuantely its not something you can really see well enough to
photograph. Essentially you install a fitting where the drain plug would
be, connect a hose to the fitting, then connect a valve to the other end of
the hose. During normal operation, the valve is closed and the hose is
routed to the top of the engine compartment and tied off as insurance should
the valve leak. When you want to drain the oil, you feed the hose through
the drain plug opening, put a bucket underneath it, open the valve and let
the oil drain out while you go drink a root beer. Sooooo much easier than
the oil pump-through-the-dipstick method. My breaking point was when I got
some sludge in the bottom of the pan and couldn't get it to pump even after
warming it up. Fearing there might be something other than sludge in there
(and that a 40-year service inspection might not be a bad idea), I had the
engine and stern drive pulled, inspected everything, installed the oil drain
(Jabsco "Oil Drain Hose and Fitting," part # 6-180800000 -- pic below, minus
the valve), routed the fuel pump vent to the carb, added a fuel filter/water
separator (Johnson part # 502905) , replaced all exhaust and cooling lines,
and changed all lubes. Other than cleaning ~1/4" of sludge off the bottom
of the oil pan (probably in part due to not being able to fully evacuate all
the oil when draining through the dipstick), no problems found and she
should be good for another 40 years!

----- Original Message -----
From: "jd" <jdood@...>
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
<omc-boats@...>
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Oil change procedures PHOTOS?

> Any chance someone could post a photo of this drain hose set up - photos
> are SO helpful
>
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 10, 2009, at 7:52 PM, Andy Perakes wrote:
>
>> I installed my drain hose about 2 years ago and absolutely love it. My
>> only regret is that I didn't do it years ago. As Ethan said, oil
>> changes are now a null issue. The single best upgrade I've done by far.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: BLDFW
>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>> Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 7:24 PM
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Oil change procedures
>>
>> I like the idea of a permanent valve. Seems to me to be the best way to
>> go. Then all you have to do is to run a hose through the rear drain
>> plug to the valve (assuming the boat is out of the water) and let it
>> drain into a bucket or the like. Will have to look into that for
>> myself.
>>
>> -Bill
>> Dallas, TX
>> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
>> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>>
>>
>> --- On Mon, 8/10/09, Ethan Brodsky <brodskye@...> wrote:
>>
>> From: Ethan Brodsky <brodskye@...>
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Oil change procedures
>> To: bchowk@...
>> Cc: omc-boats@...
>> Date: Monday, August 10, 2009, 5:25 PM
>>
>> On Mon, 10 Aug 2009, BC Howk wrote:
>> > I have not tried one of the larger extractors like Lee is talking
>> about. Think I will
>> > next time though.....What I typically do is line my bilge with a
>> garbage bag (the
>> > thicker the better) and have a bucket standing by to put the bag
>> in. I usually get
>> > pretty good results but it can get messy in a hurry if you don't
>> carefully place the
>> > bag and take caution pulling it out (thus having the bucket
>> immediatly available) My
>> > typical method requires being a little bit of a contortionist to
>> get under there and
>> > get everything set remove the plug, etc. etc....That pump is
>> sounding better everytime
>> > I do it.
>>
>> I installed an oil drain valve in my OMC V-6 a few years ago and in
>> retrospect it was a great decision. Oil changes are trivial and not the
>> slightest bit messy now. Before that I'd done it with bags several
>> times
>> (making a small mess once and a huge mess the other time) and always
>> dreaded the oil change process. It's been a busy day for me, so I'm
>> going
>> to take the liberty of reposting one of my messages on this topic from a
>> couple years ago:
>>
>> Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 00:26:36 -0600 (CST)
>> From: Ethan Brodsky <brodskye@...>
>> Reply-To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>> <omc-boats@...>
>> To: omc-boats@...
>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Oil drain valve
>>
>> On Mon, 10 Dec 2007, Andy Perakes wrote:
>> > On Fri, 07 Dec 2007, Lee wrote:
>> > >Glad you had success finding your parts. When you get a chance
>> how about
>> > >shawing some pics or a sketch of how you implemented your oil
>> drain hose
>> > >and also your fuel pump overflow hose.
>> > Hi, Lee. I will be happy to do that! I went up to see the work
>> first
>> > hand over the w/e, but didn't think to take pictures. The oil
>> drain hose
>> > he's installing was a kit, I think by a company called Jesco? He
>> said
>> > its a standard part and he's installed a lot of them over the
>> years. It
>> > basically replaces the oil pan drain plug the routes out the boat
>> drain
>> > plug hole like on newer boats. I'll get some pics and confirm the
>> name
>> > of the kit and the manufacturer when I go back up next weekend to
>> drop
>> > off more parts.
>>
>> I put in an oil drain valve a couple years ago and it's a real time
>> saver
>> over the plastic bag trick or making a mess in the bilge. I'm using a
>> valve made by a company called Fumoto. It's a brass piece that goes in
>> place of your oil drain plug. It's got a metal valve handle with a
>> spring-loaded catch and a hose barb.
>>
>> When I want to change the oil, I slip a few feet of 3/8 fuel line up
>> through the bilge drain (with the boat on the trailer) and onto the barb
>> and secure it with a hose clamp (perhaps not necessary, but I'm
>> paranoid).
>> Then I flip the lever open and it drains right out - you can drain it
>> straight into jugs and not even get your drain pan dirty. It does drain
>> a
>> lot slower though through all that hose... [NOTE: Be sure to drain your
>> oil
>> warm]
>>
>> It's survived two seasons of boating [MORE NOW] without leaking and
>> they're
>> certified by a bunch of manufacturers (and originally installed on many
>> boats and heavy duty engines), so it seems pretty reliable.
>>
>> If you've got the 225 in^3 V-6 (155 hp) you need the F101N - 1/2-20
>> threads. Be sure to get one with the "N" at the end - that means it has
>> the hose nipple. I bought mine online from a place named Tewco near
>> Milwaukee (tewco@...) for $22.50 plus a few bucks shipping.
>>
>> Here's the manufacturer's web site (you can also order them direct):
>> http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/#N-Type_Valve
>>
>> Ethan
>>
>> --
>> Ethan Brodsky
>>
>> -----Inline Attachment Follows-----
>>
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