Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC HYDRO-ELECTRIC LOWER UNITS

yes, the boat yard guy i was talking to a couple days ago said new
ones are out there and they list for $950. He was also familiar with
the guy in PDX that makes new ones for $200. Apparently there is
some spring inside that he uses that is no longer made anywhere.
It's all kinda crazy. There's a bunch of these switches out there
in use that will fail someday. The word is on the street that
they're prone to failure. So why doesn't some legit electronic
company/factory make up a bunch of these and sell them for $100 or
something. I know, it's not that simple. But the switches
themselves are simple. They're really just a glorified momentary
toggle switch. Just a few notches above what you might find in a
radio shack store or auto parts store. Wish I had some connections
in China!

On Aug 26, 2009, at 4:47 PM, Lee Shuster wrote:

> Most people selling on eBay don't have a clue. If they know what
> they have then they can command premium prices. So it is up to the
> buyer to either know what works and might interchange or be willing
> to take a chance.
>
> Jeff I'm just glad we prevent a least one person from accidently
> installing this switch. Had you installed it and used it for
> shifting into reverse, you would have engage both F/R clutches at
> the same time.
> And Dude, that would have just been down right RUDE!
>
> I've be checking and, believe it or not BRP(present owners of OMC/E/
> J) stlll carries some of these remote shifter parts, including some
> of the switches. Apparently they haven't run thru nearly as many
> Evinrude shifters as the Johnson-OMC single levers.
>
>
> On Aug 26, 2009, at 1:09 PM, jd wrote:
>
>> Yep - that's what is going on. Talked to another boat parts
>> yesterday who also knew alot about these shifters. The "extra"
>> shifter I bought on ebay a couple years ago as a spare for times
>> like this was in fact for an OUTBOARD OMC engine setup. The
>> outboard shifters have a switch in them that looks identical to
>> the strerndrive switches BUT they only send power when in forward
>> and neutral. Not in forward and reverse as needed for
>> sterndrives. $%&$##*@...!! So now I have a broken plastic 5
>> wire switch and a wrong 3 wire spare. Might have a source for a
>> correct 3 wire though. More on that later.
>>
>> So yeah, part numbers would have been good to verify here,
>> however it's important to note the outboard switch has NO part
>> numbers on it anywhere and the same is probably true for the
>> sterndrive versions of these switches. Yes the parts manual shows
>> two different numbers, but they don't seem to be marked on the
>> switches anywhere. Also important to note the shifter I bought
>> on ebay, although it's for an outboard OMC, looks just like the
>> sterndrive version. And the part numbers for it are stamped on
>> the inside - so not much chance of being able to verify anyway.
>> So the moral to this part of the story is if you are planning to
>> buy a spare shifter off ebay, make sure the guy selling it KNOWS
>> for sure it came from a stern drive not an outboard otherwise it's
>> useless to you.
>>
>> Jeff D
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Aug 24, 2009, at 7:39 PM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> OMC introduced a new lower unit in 1968 on it's then-new 55-hp 3-
>>> cyl outboard. In 1969, they used a larger version gear case on the
>>> V-4 outboards. Eventually (1978) these units were adapted to OMC
>>> Stringer I/O's.
>>> There are no-doubt members of this list running these "Hydro
>>> Electric Shift" OMC outboards and I don't want to exclued them
>>> from our recent on-going discussions.
>>>
>>> Someone suggested borrowing the remote controls from these later
>>> outboards and using them for a parts source. That may be possible,
>>> I just haven't tried it.
>>> Without studying an OMC wiring diagram, I wouldn't want to say for
>>> sure. And the mechanical switch design is most likely, still prone
>>> to failure.
>>>
>>> I do know the OMC engineers' control "logic" took a major "C-
>>> change" and I thought the background theory would be worth sharing.
>>>
>>> For some reason, OMC engineers decide to incorporate a fail-safe,
>>> "locked-in-forward" approach in the event of electrical or
>>> hydraulic failure.
>>> In other words, FORWARD GEAR, NOT NEUTRAL became the default gear
>>> position, and you'd always get home safely?
>>> And no more wind-milling props on the back of fast moving trailers.
>>>
>>> The shifting setup of the lower unit is what OMC called their
>>> "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex, consisting of
>>> voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn,
>>> change oil passages via a hydraulic oil pump that supplies various
>>> pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. Makes you appreciate the
>>> "KISS? simplicity of our pure electric shift design.
>>>
>>> The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are still
>>> "Green" and "Blue". But now, the engine must be running or
>>> cranking over in order to shift OUT OF FORWARD GEAR.
>>>
>>> With Hydro Electric Shift units,
>>>
>>> In neutral, your remote controller supplies 12v to the "Green" wire.
>>> In reverse, your remote controller supplies 12v to both wires, the
>>> "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
>>> In forward, the remote controller supplies no voltage to either
>>> wire. (And the spring-loaded shifter dog forces the unit into
>>> forward gear.)
>>>
>>> To check the lower unit for proper shifting AND to make sure you
>>> have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems
>>> and to allow a higher cranking speed with lower compression.
>>>
>>> This next step eliminates the actual remote control shifter
>>> switch, in case problems may exist there....and allows you to
>>> focus on checking the lower unit operation.
>>>
>>> Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the
>>> rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead,
>>>
>>> Then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid
>>> to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires
>>> 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse.
>>> (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift. You
>>> may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the
>>> starter solenoid with a jumper wire).
>>>
>>> With no voltage applied, the unit should be in "locked-in"
>>> forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already
>>> grounded.
>>>
>>> Lee
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
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Received on Thursday, 27 August 2009