Re: [omc-boats]

thank you, I will try to scrub it clean this summer. good old fashioned elbow
grease.
A long stainless steel steering cable, are they available through marine supply
yards?
I will address that this year before it breaks and becomes a harder repair, thank
you for the help.

Also, just a reminder before everyone sets off boating.
Last year my husband was driving his 17' Parker with a 90hp Mercury outboard on an
inland lake.
When he went to bank a wide left at a moderate speed the boat whipped around in a
radical tight turn that sent a seated passenger against the hull and then out into
the water, catapulted from the boat, not run over but very nearly so. Upon
pulling the boat on the trailer, the prop was bent forward to a drastic degree on
one fin, probably done either launching the boat or most likely while out drifting
and fishing in the shallows. New England fresh water lakes and ponds are riddled
with rock.

Check your prop and be aware of what lies beneath, know the waters you are boating
on, be safe.
thanks, Paige

LeeHazen@... wrote:

> In a message dated 3/17/05 10:25:54 AM Central Standard Time,
> windfallfarm@... writes:
>
> << My boat has never seen salt water and
> never will, so that is a plus. Plenty of green slime on the hull to slow her
> down though. Any suggestions on a good strong hull cleaning detergent?
>
> I've had good luck with plastic grill scrubbers - black ones with the harder
> "sponge" type material. The hardest part to get clean is the sides where the
> sun shines and the algae grows thickest. Push the boat out into about 7 feet
> of
> water and put on a face mask and get underneith the boat to clean the bottom.
> That part is usually easy to get clean with the scrubber.
>
>
> >One big question, what about the steering cables that run from the stern
> drive to the wheel, mine are showing age and wear, cracking, dry rot. What
> to
> do to replace them or keep the plastic coating from cracking further? any
> suggestions? >>
>
> You will need to replace them with new stainless coated cables. It's easier
> to
> replace them before they break so you can see exactly how they are routed.
>
> The cables are terminated under the right side about where the top frame is
> mounted. There are springs to keep the cable tensioned. You use ONE piece
> of cable and thread it down to the outdrive and back up to the steering wheel
> and back to the spring. Both ends connect at the spring.
>
> It's been a long time - maybe 25 years since I've done the steering cable
> proceedure..
>
> Lee Hazen
>
> Don't forget to lubricate all the fittings on the out drive so it will swivel
> easily.
>
> Lee Hazen
Received on Friday, 18 March 2005