Thanks Tom!
Dave told me the floors were put in using a giant press. The press lowered
the floor into place and then the foam was injected through holes in the
floor by the press. Once the foam set up they would release the press and
then glass over the floor. I don't think I'll remove the foam, the wood was
wet but only from the seats back, other than a few spots the foam appears
dry. From the middle of the boat forward the wood is dry.
I'm going to use epoxy resin on both sides of the floor. Will coat the
bottom with resin, put the floor in place and coat the top. I have
fiberglass mat to use on all the seams and edges. I was told epoxy resin is
completely water proof where as regular resin isn't.
Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:59 PM
Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>I guess I didn't proof the text well enough! You need to make sure you
>don't over foam the hull as you will have to sand a lot of foam to get the
>floor back to the right level so the sides will fit back into place. You
>will become aware of this as you take things apart. I pulled the floor out
>and saved as much as I could to use as a template to cut the new plywood.
>Measure everything. Look at everything like seams and where the T nuts are
>placed - you need to measure their location so the seats will go back in
>proper position or otherwise you can mount the seats with wood screws.
>Don't screw them through the bottom! There will be a ghost edge at the
>floor and you don't want to fill above that level. You can leave 2-3 inches
>of the original foam at the edges to act as a ledge or level to know the
>height you need to refill. I think the factory put the floor in first and
>then injected the foam which expanded to fit the cavity. I did the reverse.
>I would pour a small amount of foam and put plastic sheet and a board on
>top so the foam would expand just to the height I wanted. Remove the sheet
>which will not stick to the foam and do another section next to it.You
>figure it out as you go. The foam is a 2 part mixture you mix and pour and
>it expands rapidly and with some force. It is cured say in 5 minutes. I
>wanted my floor to be as close to original so I didn't have to re-engineer
>things. The whole project took months as I am slow but the end result is
>perfect. I used regular plywood and common fiberglass materials. I used
>materials from a company called Fibre Glast - they do a nice business on
>line and ship fast. You want to use fresh materials. Let me know if this
>helps or if you need more info. I could spend hours on this subject. TK
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 12:00 PM
> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>
>
>>
>> omc-boats-digest Monday, August 22 2005 Volume 01 : Number
>> 367
>>
>>
>>
>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>> Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 08:08:00 -0400
>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>
>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>
>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>> charset="Windows-1252"
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>
>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire hull is =
>> filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one gray PVC =
>> pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I used a large
>> =
>> Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had gotten =
>> waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not visible =
>> and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to the fiberglass =
>> hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is to provide rigidity =
>> to the hull and more important they are where the engine mounts are =
>> supported under the engine compartment deck. The fiberglass floor you =
>> see in the engine compartment is over foam and is a separate piece and =
>> is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor surface is =
>> plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going through the =
>> floor to the stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side =
>> of the plywood. The foam is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part =
>> polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple =
>> but you need to take as many measurements/photos before you start and =
>> during the disassembly so things will fit back together. Dimensions at =
>> the rear hatch and side panels are tight and you don't want to make many
>> =
>> mistakes. The wood surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what
>> =
>> go me started. Email if you need further instructions. Tom
>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
>> Content-Type: text/html;
>> charset="Windows-1252"
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>
>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>> <HTML><HEAD>
>> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>> charset=3Dwindows-1252">
>> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=3DGENERATOR>
>> <STYLE></STYLE>
>> </HEAD>
>> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about =
>> 3 years ago.=20
>> The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers =
>> and one=20
>> gray PVC pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I =
>> used a=20
>> large Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had gotten =
>> waterlogged.=20
>> The stringers go from front to rear.They are not visible and=20
>> are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to =
>> the fiberglass=20
>> hull with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Their main
>> =
>> purpose I=20
>> think is to provide rigidity to the hull and more important they are =
>> where the=20
>> engine mounts are supported under the engine compartment deck. The =
>> fiberglass=20
>> floor you see in the engine compartment is over foam and is a =
>> separate=20
>> piece and is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor =
>> surface is=20
>> plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going through the =
>> floor to the=20
>> stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side of the =
>> plywood. The=20
>> foam is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part polyurethane foam. =
>> Rebuilding is=20
>> the hard part and really quite simple but you need to take as many=20
>> measurements/photos before you start and during the disassembly so =
>> things=20
>> will fit back together. Dimensions at the rear hatch and side panels are
>> =
>> tight=20
>> and you don't want to make many mistakes. The wood surrounding my front =
>> bilge=20
>> had rotted and that's what go me started. Email if you need further=20
>> instructions. Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>>
>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0--
>>
>>
>> - -----
>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 07:24:06 -0500
>> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>
>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>
>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>> charset="Windows-1252"
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>
>> Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple. What's
>> =
>> involved?=20
>> ----- Original Message -----=20
>> From: Thomas Klauber=20
>> To: omc-boats-digest@...=20
>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:08 AM
>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>
>>
>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire hull is =
>> filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one gray PVC =
>> pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I used a large
>> =
>> Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had gotten =
>> waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not visible =
>> and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to the fiberglass =
>> hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is to provide rigidity =
>> to the hull and more important they are where the engine mounts are =
>> supported under the engine compartment deck. The fiberglass floor you =
>> see in the engine compartment is over foam and is a separate piece and =
>> is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor surface is =
>> plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going through the =
>> floor to the stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side =
>> of the plywood. The foam is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part =
>> polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple =
>> but you need to take as many measurements/photos before you start and =
>> during the disassembly so things will fit back together. Dimensions at =
>> the rear hatch and side panels are tight and you don't want to make many
>> =
>> mistakes. The wood surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what
>> =
>> go me started. Email if you need further instructions. Tom
>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
>> Content-Type: text/html;
>> charset="Windows-1252"
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>
>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>> <HTML><HEAD>
>> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>> charset=3Dwindows-1252">
>> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=3DGENERATOR>
>> <STYLE></STYLE>
>> </HEAD>
>> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>> <DIV>Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite =
>> simple.=20
>> What's involved? </DIV>
>> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
>> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
>> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
>> <DIV=20
>> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
>> black"><B>From:</B>=20
>> <A title=3Dtklauber@... =
>> href=3D"mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas=20
>> Klauber</A> </DIV>
>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
>> title=3Domc-boats-digest@...=20
>> =
>> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats-digest@...">omc-boats-digest@...=
>> om</A>=20
>> </DIV>
>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 22, 2005 =
>> 7:08=20
>> AM</DIV>
>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue =
>> Hull</DIV>
>> <DIV><BR></DIV>
>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue =
>> about 3 years=20
>> ago. The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal =
>> stringers=20
>> and one gray PVC pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear =
>> bilge. I=20
>> used a large Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had =
>> gotten=20
>> waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not =
>> visible and=20
>> are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to =
>> the fiberglass=20
>> hull with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Their =
>> main purpose I=20
>> think is to provide rigidity to the hull and more important they are =
>> where the=20
>> engine mounts are supported under the engine compartment deck. The =
>> fiberglass=20
>> floor you see in the engine compartment is over foam and is a =
>> separate=20
>> piece and is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor =
>> surface=20
>> is plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going through the =
>> floor=20
>> to the stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side of =
>> the=20
>> plywood. The foam is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part =
>> polyurethane foam.=20
>> Rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple but you need to =
>> take as=20
>> many measurements/photos before you start and during the =
>> disassembly so=20
>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at the rear hatch and side =
>> panels=20
>> are tight and you don't want to make many mistakes. The wood =
>> surrounding my=20
>> front bilge had rotted and that's what go me started. Email if you =
>> need=20
>> further instructions. Tom</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>>
>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0--
>>
>> - -----
>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> *******************************
>>
>> -----
>> To get off this list send mail to
>> omc-boats-digest-unsubscribe@...
>
>
> -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
-----
To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
Received on Monday, 22 August 2005
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.2.0 : Tuesday, 29 July 2014 EDT