ha, I love the part about "won't absorb moisture" - should have said "won't let
go of mositure" Dave
lib1@... wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've found all of your comments on re-foaming interesting. And thought I'd
> send along some original Evinrude statements about the manufacturing
> process:
>
> Last night I sent some scans (which apparently are too large for the mail
> list server) of the original Evinrude construction process.
>
> Here's what the paragraph said of the original construction and foaming
> process:
>
> "Rigid, closed-cell polyurethane floatation (equivalent to 73 life
> preservers) provides additional structual strength. Foaming is done under
> 250,000 lbs of pressure. Closed dies lock the hull in a steel embrace during
> the foaming operation."
>
> "Special foaming machines produce high-pressure foam twice as dense and far
> stronger than poured-in foam. It can't "work" or develop voids; won't absorb
> moisture, shrink. or pull away from the hull regardless of temperature or
> operating conditions."
>
> If you do the simple math that one live preserver could support an adult
> weighing 170 pounds x 73 then that equals roughly 12,410 lbs of floatation.
>
> I think Evinrude was more than meeting the floatation standards of BIA or
> whoever it was reasponsible for setting such standards..
>
> Lee
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>
> > Thanks for the info Dave sounds like the easiest way to go. I just read an
> > article that states you only need enough buoyancy to float the metal and
> > miscellaneous parts of the boat as fiberglass floats.
> >
> > A cubic foot of foam will float about 60 pounds of "dead weight". The
> > wood parts of your boat will probably float, so you don't need flotation
> > foam to offset that weight. The fiberglass parts of your boat will barely
> > sink, so you really don't need much foam to offset the fiberglass- maybe
> > one cubic foot of foam per two hundred pounds (or more) of fiberglass
> > hull. The metal parts of your boat are what you really need to account
> > for.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jdhanson" <jdhanson@...>
> > To: <omc-boats@...>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 4:25 AM
> > Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >
> >
> >> Hey Glen,
> >> I went about re-foaming the same way Mike did. However, instead of using
> >> the pour in type foam. I used "Versi- Foam Systems" foam it is the type
> >> of foam with a two part mixing nozzle on it. Here is a link for some
> >> info. www.rhhfoamsystems.com/literature/mfb-1/index.html After I
> >> re-glassing the seems and edges on the new floor. I drilled little holes
> >> every foot. Just big enough for the mixing nozzle tip to fit in them. I
> >> worked my way from the back of each of the three channels toward the bow
> >> of the boat filling each hole until the foam was shooting out of the
> >> hole in front of that hole. Doing it this way I was able to fill every
> >> space and put the floor back exactly how it was. The real good thing
> >> about using the mixing nozzle was that you did not have to stop and
> >> remix more foam. The foaming part its self was the easiest and fastest
> >> part of the rebuild. I'm not sure exactly how much foam is used in your
> >> boat. My boat is the sport 16. It took about 29 cubic feet of foam!
> >> Well I hope this info helps.... Dave H
> >>
> >>
> >> On Aug 23, 2005, at 7:29 AM, Glenn Halweg wrote:
> >>
> >>> Thanks for the info! That's the same place Tom Klauber bought his. How
> >>> much did you use for your boat? Was 9.5 cubic feet enough, that's the
> >>> smallest size they offer. Would almost seem like to much.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Masters, Michael"
> >>> <mmasters@...>
> >>> To: <omc-boats@...>
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:21 AM
> >>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> I believe it was Fibre Glast in Ohio. Very quick service from them but
> >>>> I'm
> >>>> in Buffalo so not very far to ship.
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> >>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On
> >>>> Behalf Of Glenn Halweg
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 10:15 AM
> >>>> To: omc-boats@...
> >>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike, where did you get the foam?
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>>> From: "Masters, Michael" <mmasters@...>
> >>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:08 AM
> >>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I went the other way on the re-foaming. I have a 1966 17' OMC Dual
> >>>>> Deluxe.
> >>>>> The foam was saturated and wouldn't dry so I removed everything down
> >>>>> to
> >>>>> the
> >>>>> hull. Then I built a new floor, resined the seams and edges, and
> >>>>> drilled
> >>>>> holes to pour in 2 part foam. It filled the hull and raised the
> >>>>> floor.
> >>>>> Very
> >>>>> solid and firm. Just wanted you to know that either method can work
> >>>>> and
> >>>>> that
> >>>>> it can be very exciting working with 2 part foam.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Mike
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> >>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]
> >>>>> On
> >>>>> Behalf Of Thomas Klauber
> >>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 9:00 PM
> >>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...
> >>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I guess I didn't proof the text well enough! You need to make sure
> >>>>> you
> >>>>> don't
> >>>>> over foam the hull as you will have to sand a lot of foam to get the
> >>>>> floor
> >>>>> back to the right level so the sides will fit back into place. You
> >>>>> will
> >>>>> become aware of this as you take things apart. I pulled the floor out
> >>>>> and
> >>>>> saved as much as I could to use as a template to cut the new plywood.
> >>>>> Measure everything. Look at everything like seams and where the T
> >>>>> nuts are
> >>>>> placed - you need to measure their location so the seats will go back
> >>>>> in
> >>>>> proper position or otherwise you can mount the seats with wood
> >>>>> screws.
> >>>>> Don't
> >>>>> screw them through the bottom! There will be a ghost edge at the
> >>>>> floor and
> >>>>> you don't want to fill above that level. You can leave 2-3 inches of
> >>>>> the
> >>>>> original foam at the edges to act as a ledge or level to know the
> >>>>> height
> >>>>> you
> >>>>> need to refill. I think the factory put the floor in first and then
> >>>>> injected
> >>>>> the foam which expanded to fit the cavity. I did the reverse. I would
> >>>>> pour
> >>>>
> >>>>> a
> >>>>> small amount of foam and put plastic sheet and a board on top so the
> >>>>> foam
> >>>>> would expand just to the height I wanted. Remove the sheet which will
> >>>>> not
> >>>>> stick to the foam and do another section next to it.You figure it out
> >>>>> as
> >>>>> you
> >>>>> go. The foam is a 2 part mixture you mix and pour and it expands
> >>>>> rapidly
> >>>>> and
> >>>>> with some force. It is cured say in 5 minutes. I wanted my floor to
> >>>>> be as
> >>>>> close to original so I didn't have to re-engineer things. The whole
> >>>>> project
> >>>>> took months as I am slow but the end result is perfect. I used
> >>>>> regular
> >>>>> plywood and common fiberglass materials. I used materials from a
> >>>>> company
> >>>>> called Fibre Glast - they do a nice business on line and ship fast.
> >>>>> You
> >>>>> want
> >>>>> to use fresh materials. Let me know if this helps or if you need more
> >>>>> info.
> >>>>> I could spend hours on this subject. TK
> >>>>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>>>> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
> >>>>> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
> >>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 12:00 PM
> >>>>> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> omc-boats-digest Monday, August 22 2005 Volume 01 :
> >>>>>> Number
> >>>>>> 367
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>> Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>>>> --
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 08:08:00 -0400
> >>>>>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
> >>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
> >>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
> >>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> >>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire hull
> >>>>>> is
> >>>>>> = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one gray
> >>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I
> >>>>>> used
> >>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
> >>>>>> gotten
> >>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
> >>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is to
> >>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are where the
> >>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment deck. The
> >>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over foam
> >>>>>> and
> >>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did not
> >>>>>> touch
> >>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass. There
> >>>>>> are
> >>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats mount
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy to
> >>>>>> get
> >>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the
> >>>>>> hard
> >>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
> >>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the disassembly so
> >>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch and
> >>>>>> side
> >>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes. The
> >>>>>> wood
> >>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
> >>>>>> started.
> >>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
> >>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
> >>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
> >>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> >>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> >>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> >>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722"
> >>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> >>>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue
> >>>>>> about =
> >>>>>> 3 years ago.=20
> >>>>>> The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal
> >>>>>> stringers = and one=20 gray PVC pipe connecting the front "bilge"
> >>>>>> area
> >>>>>> to the rear bilge. I = used a=20 large Forstner drill bit to remove
> >>>>>> the foam. Some of it had gotten = waterlogged.=20 The stringers go
> >>>>>> from front to rear.They are not visible and=20
> >>>>>> are sheathed
> >>>>>> in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to = the fiberglass=20
> >>>>>> hull
> >>>>>> with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Their main
> >>>>>> =
> >>>>>> purpose I=20 think is to provide rigidity to the hull and more
> >>>>>> important they are = where the=20 engine mounts are supported under
> >>>>>> the engine compartment deck. The = fiberglass=20 floor you see in
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> engine compartment is over foam and is a = separate=20 piece
> >>>>>> and
> >>>>>> is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor = surface
> >>>>>> is=20 plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going
> >>>>>> through
> >>>>>> the = floor to the=20 stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in the
> >>>>>> reverse side of the = plywood. The=20 foam is easy to get out
> >>>>>> really.
> >>>>>> It is a 2 part polyurethane foam. = Rebuilding is=20 the hard part
> >>>>>> and
> >>>>>> really quite simple but you need to take as many=20
> >>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and during the disassembly
> >>>>>> so = things=20 will fit back together. Dimensions at the rear hatch
> >>>>>> and side panels are = tight=20 and you don't want to make many
> >>>>>> mistakes. The wood surrounding my front = bilge=20 had rotted and
> >>>>>> that's what go me started. Email if you need further=20
> >>>>>> instructions.
> >>>>>> Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0--
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> - -----
> >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> ------------------------------
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 07:24:06 -0500
> >>>>>> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> >>>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
> >>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
> >>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> >>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple.
> >>>>>> What's = involved?=20
> >>>>>> ----- Original Message -----=20
> >>>>>> From: Thomas Klauber=20
> >>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...=20
> >>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:08 AM
> >>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire hull
> >>>>>> is = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one
> >>>>>> gray
> >>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I
> >>>>>> used
> >>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
> >>>>>> gotten
> >>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
> >>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is to
> >>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are where the
> >>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment deck. The
> >>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over foam
> >>>>>> and
> >>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did not
> >>>>>> touch
> >>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass. There
> >>>>>> are
> >>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats mount
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy to
> >>>>>> get
> >>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the
> >>>>>> hard
> >>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
> >>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the disassembly so
> >>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch and
> >>>>>> side
> >>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes. The
> >>>>>> wood
> >>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
> >>>>>> started.
> >>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
> >>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
> >>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
> >>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> >>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> >>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> >>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722"
> >>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> >>>>>> <DIV>Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite
> >>>>>> =
> >>>>>> simple.=20 What's involved? </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
> >>>>>> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
> >>>>>> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV
> >>>>>> style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> >>>>>> <DIV=20
> >>>>>> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> >>>>>> black"><B>From:</B>=20 <A title=3Dtklauber@... =
> >>>>>> href=3D"mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas=20
> >>>>>> Klauber</A> </DIV>
> >>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
> >>>>>> title=3Domc-boats-digest@...=20
> >>>>>> =
> >>>>>> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats-digest@...">omc-boats-
> >>>>>> digest@...
> >>>>>> e.c=
> >>>>>> om</A>=20
> >>>>>> </DIV>
> >>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 22,
> >>>>>> 2005
> >>>>>> = 7:08=20 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B>
> >>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue = Hull</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT
> >>>>>> face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue = about 3
> >>>>>> years=20 ago. The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2
> >>>>>> longitudinal = stringers=20 and one gray PVC pipe connecting the
> >>>>>> front "bilge" area to the rear = bilge. I=20 used a large Forstner
> >>>>>> drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had = gotten=20 waterlogged.
> >>>>>> The stringers go from front to rear.They are not = visible
> >>>>>> and=20
> >>>>>> are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to =
> >>>>>> the fiberglass=20 hull with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT
> >>>>>> face=3DArial
> >>>>>> size=3D2> Their = main purpose I=20 think is to provide
> >>>>>> rigidity
> >>>>>> to the hull and more important they are = where the=20 engine
> >>>>>> mounts
> >>>>>> are supported under the engine compartment deck. The = fiberglass=20
> >>>>>> floor you see in the engine compartment is over foam and is a
> >>>>>> =
> >>>>>> separate=20 piece and is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch
> >>>>>> it. The floor = surface=20 is plywood covered with fiberglass.
> >>>>>> There
> >>>>>> are screws going through the = floor=20 to the stringers. The seats
> >>>>>> mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side of = the=20 plywood. The foam
> >>>>>> is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam.=20
> >>>>>> Rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple but you need to
> >>>>>> =
> >>>>>> take as=20 many measurements/photos before you start and
> >>>>>> during
> >>>>>> the = disassembly so=20 things will fit back together. Dimensions
> >>>>>> at
> >>>>>> the rear hatch and side = panels=20 are tight and you don't want to
> >>>>>> make many mistakes. The wood = surrounding my=20 front bilge had
> >>>>>> rotted and that's what go me started. Email if you = need=20
> >>>>>> further
> >>>>>> instructions. Tom</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0--
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> - -----
> >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> ------------------------------
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>>> *******************************
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----
> >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
> >>>>>> omc-boats-digest-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -----
> >>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>> -----
> >>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>
> >>>> -----
> >>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>> -----
> >>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>
> >>> -----
> >>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >
> > -----
> > To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >
> >
>
> -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
-----
To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
Received on Wednesday, 24 August 2005
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