On Thu, 29 Mar 2007, Thomas Klauber wrote:
> You need to get a Seloc manual for your year stern drive to help you with
> the maintainance.
I actually have the Seloc, Clymer, and dealer service manual. My mistake
was to only look at the Seloc (my favorite) - it just lists the capacity
and says to "fill it". I discovered last night that the dealer service
manual and Clymer both also say to "fill until the level is visible"
(though Clymer recommends the wrong lube for older drives).
> I fill my intermediate housing till it starts to run out the hole. I
> would not try and overfill it. It sounds like you have a leaky seal and
> replace the oil as you need to. I had to replace mine several years ago
> and it was not too hard to do by myself.
I filled it until it was close to the hole and I think it'll be fine.
It's leaking a bit, but it appears I only lost perhaps an ounce over the
entire winter, so I'm not too concerned. I didn't add any before last
season and it ran fine all year, so it can make it through at least two
seasons without adding any fluid. I wanted to replace the seal when I had
it apart to do the ball gears, but I was concerned I bought the wrong seal
(it looked somewhat different) and didn't want to tear it out. I think
that the new seal was just a better design and would've worked fine. If I
ever have to do ball gears again, I'll definitely replace the seal.
> The hull crack can be found many ways. I would get in the boat at nite
> and put a light outside the hull and look for where the light can be seen
> inside the hull or you can be outside and put the light inside. Or put a
> hose to the hull and see if you can spot the leak. The leaks can be pesky
> and I think they can leak up at the rub rail where the screws mount the
> rail to the hull assuming you have the 2 part hull bonded at the rail
> like I do.
Yeah, it's definitely coming in at the seam behind the rub-rail.
Unfortunately I didn't mark the spot last year and didn't have a hose
handy, so I couldn't find it tonight. I tightened up all the rub rail
screws a lot - many were really loose. We'll see if that fixes it.
> These screw holes deteriorate and spider crack with age.
I'm a little concerned that it'll crack now that I've tightened the screws,
especially if I bump something with the rub rail.
> Some day I will redo the rub rail and bond the seam good and
> that should work. They bonded those seams and I think the bonds can fail
> or maybe some areas they missed and can leak which in most areas is OK as
> it runs into the bilge.
I'm guessing there's been quite a bit of flex over the years and that the
adhesive probably isn't in too good shape. I doubt it's worth separating
it to reglue it - everything's probably warped enough that it wouldn't seal
as well afterwards. I'd consider RTVing the entire seam or putting a layer
of epoxy over it.
> I would go for some aftermarket seats. You might
> get some used. What about a lawn chair or something. Just my thoughts.
These are the two seats that fit into cut-outs in the hull around the
engine bay (http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~brodskye/boat/boat3.jpg). I'm
guessing the ones in there are already aftermarket, though it's possible
they're original. I could just get some cushions and install them, but one
needs to be hinged because the PFDs are stored underneath. I'd love to
find a set of used seats that fit.
Ethan
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Received on Thursday, 29 March 2007
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