Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement

Hi Tom,
I have seen the horizontal seam between the hull and upper fiberglass -
below the rub rail removed so far across the back of the boat. Is there also
a seam in the upper fiberglass that separates the top of the rear seating
area from the top of rest of the boat, or will I be cutting one to avoid
removing the whole upper fiberglass?
Thanks again,
Ian

-----Original Message-----
From: omc-boats-bounces@...
[mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of
tpaquette@...
Sent: June 19, 2007 11:22 AM
To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement

Hi Ian,

I can send you info tonite. I was swamped last night.

disaaembly is as basic as it appears.

You will need:

Large Phillips Screwdriver.

Vice Grips

Sawsall type tool with fiberglass blade or similar

Drill with a Looooooong bit. 8" or so. bewteen 1/4 an 1/2 inch....
whatever you have around.

eye, hand and body coverage. i alos recommend a paper style breathing mask
- All for the dust you will make.....

Unbolt and remove ALL the rub rail. Srewdriver and vice grips

carefully use sawsall to cut the rear seating section from the hull. You
will see seam once you remove rub rail. take your time. the glass gets
hots and you dont want it to "melt"...

At the transom, I just dug out the pulp that use to be the transom. It is a
1/2 and 3/4 inch ply laminated togehter.

At the corners where the transom meets the seating section use the drill to
"carve" out the wood.

Once you have completed the cutting... Again take your time !!! the seating
section lifts out. It is glued to center florr area with expoy but it lifts
righ out as that conact is well past itis prime... just lift slowly and
steadily.

If I didnt mention it. I removed the stearing console. cables etc and bench
seat and all prior to this operation. Basically I gutted it and labeled and
photo's everything so I know how it goes together.

I'm not sure where you are in the process but hope this gets you started. i
have plans for the refit as well.

Tom

>
> From: <tpaquette@...>
> Date: 2007/06/18 Mon AM 11:42:17 EDT
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and
> 70's" <omc-boats@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement
>
> For the out board it is not too difficult.
>
> I can send you instructions on how I disassembled and my plan for
reassembly.
>
> Try later tonite if I have time
>
> Tom
> >
> > From: Ian Torrey (QNX) <itorrey@...>
> > Date: 2007/06/14 Thu AM 09:36:38 EDT
> > To: omc-boats@...
> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement
> >
> > Thanks for your responses, Lee and Tom. I removed the outboard motor
> > last night, and found things were not very pretty back there. A good
> > portion of the transom is really spongy - bad enough that I don't
> > think it's worth even trying to make any short term repairs. I think
> > the only way I'll feel safe putting this one in the water is with
> > the full transom replacement (and probably floor and foam too).
> >
> > Tom, do you have a plan for how you are approaching your full
> > replacement? Looks like the outboards might be a bit harder to work
> > on from the inside than in Lee's stern drive photos. Lee, in your
> > photos, there only seems to be one layer of 'glass. Have you already
> > cut out an inside layer before adding the 3/4" plywood, or is that
> > all the transom the stringer drives required? My transom appears to
> > be about three 1/2" sheets of plywood sandwiched between inner and
> > outer fiberglass panels, with a 2x6" horizontal brace running the
> > full width across the back on the inside, and a smaller brace right
> > above the bilge well.
> >
> > Also, any thoughts on products like Seacast pourable transom repair?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ian
> >
> >
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> >
>
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Received on Tuesday, 19 June 2007