Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 15, Issue 7

The special gear lube is needed to be compatible with the wires, insulation
and or electronics in the lower drive - I forgot where I heard this but
used to wonder why you had to use a special lube in the lower drive. TK
----- Original Message -----
From: <omc-boats-request@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 12:00 PM
Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 15, Issue 7

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> 1. Re: Reverse works great, but... (Ian Torrey)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 11:52:48 -0400
> From: "Ian Torrey" <itorrey@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <A9FFF34802177745923A920824CCD8419DB930@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hope you don't mind me jumping in on this thread - but the
> non-conductive gear lube comment has caught my attention. I'm hoping to
> get my 67 100hp outboard with electric shift out for a "maiden voyage"
> this week, but had not considered the need for special gear oil in the
> lower unit. I've just filled it with fresh outboard lower unit lube from
> my local Canadian Tire store. Should I drain and refill it before the
> test run with something else? Is this oil only available from the
> dealer, or should I look for a DOT or grade specification on the oil I
> used?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
> [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of
> lib1@...
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 9:45 PM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>
> Your Step 3 question: Well you "should" have a decent ground back to
> the
> engine or negitive battery terminal, but that's not always the
> real-world
> situation. Personally, I would find some bare metal on the down-leg case
> for
> my lower gear case ground point. You can always check the ground
> resistance
> each physical step of the way back to the engine block/battery.
>
> Ah, so now the truth comes out -- We are not running Type C, eh?
> Mmmmmmm.......that means consulting the OMC Gods....It would be a good
> idea
> not to re-apply power to the coils.
> I'd also take readings with and without the rogue lubricant present.
>
> I've personally never cracked open the lower gear case. I've hear it
> takes
> nuclear-power snap ring pliers to get those buggers apart. :-)
>
> Lee
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Micah Donahue" <mdonahue@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 7:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>
>
>> Thanks VERY much, Lee.
>>
>> One Q on the troubleshooting. In step 3, I assume you're connecting
> the
>> meter to the ground and terminals inside the engine compartment,
> rather
>> than somewhere in the outdrive? Seems like this is a test you do
> before
>> you crack it open?
>>
>> Speaking of cracking it open, how hard is it to replace that spring if
>
>> broken?
>>
>> Also, I'm not 100% sure it has the correct (non-conductive) gear lube
> in
>> it. I think we filled w/ OMC premium last time, but that was 9 months
> ago.
>> Seems like reverse wouldn't work either, but maybe there's a minor
> short
>> or something in the fwd coil that the wrong lube makes worse.
>>
>> -Micah
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From:
>> omc-boats-request@...
>> To: omc-boats@...
>> Sent:
>> Sun, 06 Jul 2008 11:20:39 -0400
>> Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 15, Issue 4
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Message: 4
>>> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 09:04:14 -0600
>>> From: <lib1@...>
>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>>> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>>> <omc-boats@...>
>>> Message-ID: <00e701c8df79$92b10250$c301000a@...>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>>
>>> Hi Micha,
>>>
>>> Good in-the-field, logical troubleshooting on your part.
>>>
>>> Here's your next step -- You'll need an ohm-meter that can measure
>>> resistance in ohms.
>>>
>>> The shifting is accomplished with electromagnetic "stationary"coils
> (one
>>> each forward and reverse) as well as clutch springs (again one each
>>> forward
>>> and reverse). When energized with +12 v dc current the coil/spring
>>> combination causes the driven gear to engage in either forward or
>>> reverse.
>>>
>>> Basically four elements have to be present or available for shifting
> to
>>> occur:
>>>
>>> 1) Complete Positive Circuit path for Forward and Reverse (thru
> internal
>>> down-leg harness LIGHT-BLUE = FORWARD, LIGHT-GREEN = REVERSE)
>>>
>>> 2) There must also be a COMMON return GROUND PATH BACK THRU the
> down-leg
>>> and
>>>
>>> thru the intermediate housing. OMC offered a ground-strap kit, but
> since
>>> you
>>>
>>> have current flow on the reverse circuit this path is NOT likely your
>>> problem. But check the resistance bewteen the downleg and the engine
>>> anyway.
>>>
>>> Should be essentially close to zero ohms.
>>>
>>> 3) Each staionary coil should draw approximately 2.25 Amps at 12 v
> dc.
>>> Using Ohms law this is easy to measure with a static resistance
>>> measurement.
>>>
>>> First locate a decent ground point on the down leg and place on probe
> of
>>> the
>>>
>>> ohmeter there. The second probe should go to the LIGHT-BLUE or LIGHT
>>> GREEN
>>> stern drive terminal with the remote control disconnected. Your
> ohmmeter
>>> should read approximately 12.00 / 2.25 = 5.3 ohms, which you can
> round
>>> off
>>> to 4 to 8 ohms. (An open circuit would yield very high resistance --
> A
>>> broken or high resistance connection in the wiring would cause this,
> as
>>> would an open staionary coil.)
>>>
>>> 4) If all the electrical checks prove OK, then you have a defective
>>> clutch
>>> spring. These have a tendency to fail (physically break) when shifted
>
>>> from
>>> neutral into gear above the recommended idle RPM speed (typically 550
> to
>>> 650
>>>
>>> RPM).
>>>
>>> If I had to guess -- you'll find the problem in either step 1 or 4.
>>>
>>> I'm writing this from memory, so any one elese feel free to jump in.
>>>
>>> Oh, here's a decent picture to better understand what's inside the
>>> gearcase:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Also see:
>>> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/omc_stringer.htm
>>>
>>> Lee Shuster
>>>
>>> Salt Lake City
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Micah Donahue" <mdonahue@...>
>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 6:27 AM
>>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>>>
>>>
>>> > ...it's tough to pull a skier in that direction.
>>> >
>>> > We had our '68 Sportsman 155 in the water yesterday for a sea
> trial.
>>> > Started and ran flawlessly, and shifted fine into reverse to back
> away
>>> > from the dock. But it wouldn't shift into forward gear.
>>> >
>>> > We ruled out the console push-button switches by reversing the 2
> wires
>>> > where they connect to the wires that go into the intermediate
> housing
>>> > of the outdrive. Then, as you'd expect, it shifted into reverse by
>>> > pushing the *forward* shift button. But from that point, we got
>>> > nowhere. We assume the problem is either:
>>> > a) a break in the "forward" wire somewhere in the run from engine
>>> > compartment to lower unit
>>> > b) bad shift solenoid (assuming that's what you'd call the part
> that
>>> > does the shifting)
>>> >
>>> > Obviously, next step is to dive in w/ the manual and start looking
> for
>>> > wiring problems as the wiring goes from engine compartment to lower
>>> > unit. Then check the operation of the solenoid. As we do that, any
>>> > suggestions? Any "duhh" solutions we're missing? Thanks in advance.
>>> >
>>> > -Micah
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > _______________________________________________
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Received on Monday, 7 July 2008