Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 17, Issue 9

Jeff,

I would think a little research with you and a decent parts counter man
"might" show that the gaskets you need interchange bewtween the odd-fire 225
(3.7L) Buick V6 made from 1964 - 1972(?) and the later 231 (3.8L) even-fire
Buick V6 from 1977-onward.

Here's a listing of people who know Buick engines inside and out that should
be helpful. (It's listed on my website).
http://www.hhscott.com/evinrude/buick_v6.htm

http://www.buickpartsdirectory.com/engine.htm

Lee Shuster

----- Original Message -----
From: "JEFF DOOD" <jdood@...>
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
<omc-boats@...>
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 17, Issue 9

> thanks for the reply - now i have my boat and it's up to me. so i am
> more than ever desperate for whatever info i can get.
>
>
> On Sep 11, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Thomas Klauber wrote:
>
>> I see no reason why you can't make your own gasket - all you need is
>> the
>> proper material and a template such as the old gasket - it is not
>> rocket
>> science - you can buy sheets or rolls of any kind of gasket material
>> at
>> NAPA. You will have to determine what material to use and the proper
>> thickness - the guys behind the NAPA counter usually can help or any
>> oldtime
>> mechanic.
>
> ok - i can definitely handle making gaskets - no fears about that.
> it's mainly the material and if there's some special marine material
> and special marine reasons i need to use it, etc. if typical
> automotive type gasket stuff will work (cork or cardboard or
> whatever), then i can handle that. but if it needs to be asbestos
> or some special super heat resistant material, i might be stuck.
> i've just recently dealt with a lot of gasket issues on another
> project (also fixing up a '78 van) and have learned that sometimes
> they need to be pretty specific thicknesses and materials, as you said.
>
>
>
>> I would not try to make a head gasket which is metal etc.
>
> so if remove the heads, will the metal ones already in use likely
> survive? everyone always talks about a "blown head gasket" and how
> serious it can be. makes me not even want to breath on those
> existing gaskets. but maybe i am being to paranoid. (?)
>
>
>
>> I have
>> made many gaskets. Use an Exacto Knife or other razor sharp knife
>> and or
>> scissors and I use can lids etc to trace larger holes and have a
>> leather
>> hole punch set to do the bolt holes.
>
> gotcha. i am dying to tear into this last little problem asap.
> just didn't want to get stuck in a corner after disassembling stuff.
>
>
>> The Seloc manual suggests rodding the
>> exhaust water logs as they scale up with rust over the years. Did
>> they ever
>> check those? Good luck! TK
>
>
> yep - i rodded one, they rodded one. theirs was really bad -
> almost closed. mine not too bad. both all clean now.
>
> took her out for another test drive tonight.....just hoping that
> somehow leaving it sitting for 2 weeks miraculous solved the
> overheating issue. yeah right. didnt. but what fun it is to
> take it out, have it start up, idle smooth, and go full
> throttle............albeit for 30 secs at a time. my routine is
> go full for about 30 seconds.....then slow way down and rush back to
> the engine with my heat sensing gun and point it all over the
> engine. take readings for a minute or so. repeat. did that
> for about 15-20 minutes out on the river tonight. was being careful
> not to go too long at full throttle.
>
> still the same deal, but more to add. right manifold reads
> around 90. left around 150. water pump around 160. therm
> housing around 160. but here's where it gets weird.........#1
> cylinder about 210. and the #2 cylinder on the other side - GOT UP
> TO 250 ON LAST RUN! so not only is it the #1 that appears to have
> some blockage issue, it's also the one on the other side too. both
> front cylinders. i point my gun at the intake manifold above
> each. and then the bolt on the head right at each. that #2 bolt
> read 250 more than once. it's actually getting hotter than the
> other side. then i point it at the other cylinders and the temp
> goes down to the 170 range. That 250 reading made me head back to
> the dock. but maybe i am overreacting?
>
>
>
> so many questions.
>
> 1) this may be stupid, but just to confirm, 250 is dangerously hot
> - right? or is that normal for those front cylinders?
>
> 2) at what temp does severe damage happen - like a crack? i keep
> thinking of all the metal / cast iron stuff that goes in a household
> baking oven - griddles, broiler grates, cookie sheets, etc. and
> that stuff withstands 500+ degrees. so when does a block reach it's
> limit typically?
>
> 3) Is there a way to check and see if i have water flowing around
> those front cylinders WITHOUT have to disamantle everything? can i
> take off the thermostat thing and squirt water through there somehow?
>
> jeff
>
>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <omc-boats-request@...>
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 12:00 PM
>> Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 17, Issue 9
>>
>>
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>>> Today's Topics:
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>>> 1. intake manifold/head gaskets (JEFF DOOD)
>>> 2. paint (000000000 kennedy construction)
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 09:10:06 -0700
>>> From: JEFF DOOD <jdood@...>
>>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] intake manifold/head gaskets
>>> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>>> <omc-boats@...>
>>> Message-ID: <6753E974-6963-42D4-B149-7C4192E233D8@...>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>>>
>>> the overheating issue is now narrowed way down. in fact, i have my
>>> boat back in my shop now and am going to try and do stuff myself from
>>> here on out. it's running pretty good, but still overheating in
>>> one
>>> little spot on the engine - right at the "1" stamp on the intake
>>> manifold over the #1 cylinder. that spot consistantly reads 200-220
>>> on the heat gun when testing out on the water. everywhere else
>>> seems
>>> to read normal temps.
>>>
>>> so i have to embark on a little exploration surgery here and see if
>>> there's some sort of blockage right there in the #1 cylinder
>>> area. which means taking off the intake manifold.
>>>
>>> which means a new gasket, right?
>>>
>>> same with the cylinder heads?
>>>
>>> any chance the existing gaskets can survive, if i am really careful?
>>>
>>> the idea with both those gaskets is complete air and water
>>> tightness, right?
>>>
>>> so even a pin sized leak can be bad, right?
>>>
>>> i have no problem buying gaskets, but surprise surprise - not seeming
>>> to be readlly available. part of the problem is not knowing exactly
>>> which year engine i have. boat, '64. engine - who knows. Buick
>>> v-6 155 around '70 i'm told.
>>>
>>> And, unless i am missing something, i can't know that the gaskets
>>> i've ordered will fit (providing i can even find them), unless i
>>> take
>>> the intake manifold off - at which point i will have trashed my
>>> existing gasket.
>>>
>>> i don't want to get into a situation where i have the engine
>>> disassembled and can't find gaskets.
>>>
>>> Can those gaskets be custom made by hand as a backup last resort?
>>> cork? ???? i can't find the blockage unless i get in there
>>> and look.
>>>
>>>
>>> thanks! jeff
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 2
>>> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 12:48:57 -0700 (PDT)
>>> From: 000000000 kennedy construction <halkenbuild@...>
>>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] paint
>>> To: omc-boats@...
>>> Message-ID: <230261.4930.qm@...>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>
>>> does anyone have the awlgrip paint code for a blue-green 1965 17'
>>> delux
>>> omc
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>>> End of OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 17, Issue 9
>>> ****************************************
>>
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Received on Friday, 12 September 2008