Re: [OMC-Boats] another shifter switch question....

Test before taking out? And risk finding that it doesn't work
thereby ruining my plans to take it to the ramp and launch it as if it
did? Now why would I wanna do that?

Ok latest and greatest - I got it put back together and have nice
consistent power to the green wire when i move the shift lever into
reverse, and nice consistent power to the blue wire when in
neutral. I know, I know - something ain't quite right bout that.
A big part of me wants to take it to the ramp and see if miraculously
forward and reverse work just fine......but that's also the part of me
that didn't test things completely before going to the ramp last time.

I'm pretty screwed here. About another 3 -4 weeks left in season.
No time to order and wait for anything - plus really not crazy about
$200 for new one. SOOOO - is there any reason I can't just leave
the wire that lights up in neutral disconnected, Connect the green
wire that lights up in reverse to the forward blue wire from the
outdrive, and just limp around on the water without a working
reverse? Atleast I would have a working forward to get by with until
the end of season. Not great, not super safe w/o reverse I know
- but I'm more interested in knowing if there is any tech reason that
wouldn't work? I definitely don't want to risk even the slightest
damage to any outdrive stuff, but it seems that it would work just
fine. I guess it would also mean having to move the shift lever
back to accelerate forward, but i could deal with that.

On Aug 22, 2009, at 3:19 PM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:

> jeff,
>
> Nothing is grounded on the remote shifter housing. The SWITCH is
> simply a SPDT type (SONGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW). You send it +12 volts
> to it's middle (purple) wire. More it FORWARD and the 12 V is
> "joined" to the green wire. In Netural nothin is joined. In Reverse
> the middle wire and the BLUE are joined. I believe the middle wire
> which supplies the 12 V is purple. On a 5-wire the two white wires
> are the Neutral-only starter. They become unjoined when the switch
> is in FORWARD OR REVERSE. The are "joined" when the switch is in
> neutral allowing current to flow to the starter switch.
>
> This is really pretty simple. I don't know how else to explain it.
> If you have disconnected the remote control from the point and it
> fails the SIMPLE CONSTINUITY TEST with a light or ohmmeter, then you
> have a bad switch and must replace the switchl
>
> As a mentioned earlier the failure rate is very high on these
> switches in the Johnson/OMC single-lever control. The likely hood of
> having a spare remote control with a DEFECTIVE switch is very high.
>
> Did you not test the replacement switch before taking the boat out?
>
> Lee
>
>
> On Aug 22, 2009, at 11:07 AM, jd wrote:
>
>> took boat to river yesterday with original shifter housing /
>> swapped out switch. No forward or reverse. Took housing apart
>> at dock and fiddled with switch. It lights up the tester
>> REVERSE and NEUTRAL (moving the little arm back and forth). But
>> not forward. Am I missing something here? Should light up
>> in forward and reverse, and when it's in neutral it should be
>> "off" right? The switch is pretty solid, moves smoothly, and
>> seems to be in good working order. But definitely nothing in
>> forward. Just reverse, and neutral. This with me holding it
>> my hand and testing it. It doesn't need to ground to the shifter
>> housing does it? It's just a switch - shouldn't need to. Help!
>>
>> thanks, Jeff
>> _______________________________________________
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>> OMC-Boats@...
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>
>
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Received on Sunday, 23 August 2009