Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 28, Issue 47

I think that somewhere along the way in the late 60's that OMC changed
the configuration of the wires in the electric shift. I believe that
you cannot necessarily take a shift switch from a different year and
put it in your boat, they may not be compatible and this may be your
problem

Ralph Erickson

On 8/23/09, omc-boats-request@...
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. another shifter switch question.... (jd)
> 2. Re: another shifter switch question.... (Lee Shuster (lib1))
> 3. Re: another shifter switch question.... (jd)
> 4. Re: another shifter switch question.... (Scott Veazie)
> 5. OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS (Lee Shuster)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 10:07:40 -0700
> From: jd <jdood@...>
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] another shifter switch question....
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <192EEF53-6363-47EC-9943-15AE8E4A825C@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> took boat to river yesterday with original shifter housing / swapped
> out switch. No forward or reverse. Took housing apart at dock and
> fiddled with switch. It lights up the tester REVERSE and NEUTRAL
> (moving the little arm back and forth). But not forward. Am I
> missing something here? Should light up in forward and reverse,
> and when it's in neutral it should be "off" right? The switch is
> pretty solid, moves smoothly, and seems to be in good working
> order. But definitely nothing in forward. Just reverse, and
> neutral. This with me holding it my hand and testing it. It
> doesn't need to ground to the shifter housing does it? It's just a
> switch - shouldn't need to. Help!
>
> thanks, Jeff
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 16:19:14 -0600
> From: "Lee Shuster (lib1)" <lib1@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] another shifter switch question....
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <A6B74B82-3343-47B6-8E5D-741E31FFB5EC@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> jeff,
>
> Nothing is grounded on the remote shifter housing. The SWITCH is
> simply a SPDT type (SONGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW). You send it +12 volts
> to it's middle (purple) wire. More it FORWARD and the 12 V is "joined"
> to the green wire. In Netural nothin is joined. In Reverse the middle
> wire and the BLUE are joined. I believe the middle wire which supplies
> the 12 V is purple. On a 5-wire the two white wires are the Neutral-
> only starter. They become unjoined when the switch is in FORWARD OR
> REVERSE. The are "joined" when the switch is in neutral allowing
> current to flow to the starter switch.
>
> This is really pretty simple. I don't know how else to explain it. If
> you have disconnected the remote control from the point and it fails
> the SIMPLE CONSTINUITY TEST with a light or ohmmeter, then you have a
> bad switch and must replace the switchl
>
> As a mentioned earlier the failure rate is very high on these switches
> in the Johnson/OMC single-lever control. The likely hood of having a
> spare remote control with a DEFECTIVE switch is very high.
>
> Did you not test the replacement switch before taking the boat out?
>
> Lee
>
>
> On Aug 22, 2009, at 11:07 AM, jd wrote:
>
>> took boat to river yesterday with original shifter housing / swapped
>> out switch. No forward or reverse. Took housing apart at dock
>> and fiddled with switch. It lights up the tester REVERSE and
>> NEUTRAL (moving the little arm back and forth). But not
>> forward. Am I missing something here? Should light up in
>> forward and reverse, and when it's in neutral it should be "off"
>> right? The switch is pretty solid, moves smoothly, and seems
>> to be in good working order. But definitely nothing in
>> forward. Just reverse, and neutral. This with me holding it
>> my hand and testing it. It doesn't need to ground to the shifter
>> housing does it? It's just a switch - shouldn't need to. Help!
>>
>> thanks, Jeff
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 22:58:10 -0700
> From: jd <jdood@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] another shifter switch question....
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <DFC37831-9F95-4973-900F-A34E7743344F@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
> Test before taking out? And risk finding that it doesn't work
> thereby ruining my plans to take it to the ramp and launch it as if it
> did? Now why would I wanna do that?
>
> Ok latest and greatest - I got it put back together and have nice
> consistent power to the green wire when i move the shift lever into
> reverse, and nice consistent power to the blue wire when in
> neutral. I know, I know - something ain't quite right bout that.
> A big part of me wants to take it to the ramp and see if miraculously
> forward and reverse work just fine......but that's also the part of me
> that didn't test things completely before going to the ramp last time.
>
> I'm pretty screwed here. About another 3 -4 weeks left in season.
> No time to order and wait for anything - plus really not crazy about
> $200 for new one. SOOOO - is there any reason I can't just leave
> the wire that lights up in neutral disconnected, Connect the green
> wire that lights up in reverse to the forward blue wire from the
> outdrive, and just limp around on the water without a working
> reverse? Atleast I would have a working forward to get by with until
> the end of season. Not great, not super safe w/o reverse I know
> - but I'm more interested in knowing if there is any tech reason that
> wouldn't work? I definitely don't want to risk even the slightest
> damage to any outdrive stuff, but it seems that it would work just
> fine. I guess it would also mean having to move the shift lever
> back to accelerate forward, but i could deal with that.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 22, 2009, at 3:19 PM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
>
>> jeff,
>>
>> Nothing is grounded on the remote shifter housing. The SWITCH is
>> simply a SPDT type (SONGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW). You send it +12 volts
>> to it's middle (purple) wire. More it FORWARD and the 12 V is
>> "joined" to the green wire. In Netural nothin is joined. In Reverse
>> the middle wire and the BLUE are joined. I believe the middle wire
>> which supplies the 12 V is purple. On a 5-wire the two white wires
>> are the Neutral-only starter. They become unjoined when the switch
>> is in FORWARD OR REVERSE. The are "joined" when the switch is in
>> neutral allowing current to flow to the starter switch.
>>
>> This is really pretty simple. I don't know how else to explain it.
>> If you have disconnected the remote control from the point and it
>> fails the SIMPLE CONSTINUITY TEST with a light or ohmmeter, then you
>> have a bad switch and must replace the switchl
>>
>> As a mentioned earlier the failure rate is very high on these
>> switches in the Johnson/OMC single-lever control. The likely hood of
>> having a spare remote control with a DEFECTIVE switch is very high.
>>
>> Did you not test the replacement switch before taking the boat out?
>>
>> Lee
>>
>>
>> On Aug 22, 2009, at 11:07 AM, jd wrote:
>>
>>> took boat to river yesterday with original shifter housing /
>>> swapped out switch. No forward or reverse. Took housing apart
>>> at dock and fiddled with switch. It lights up the tester
>>> REVERSE and NEUTRAL (moving the little arm back and forth). But
>>> not forward. Am I missing something here? Should light up
>>> in forward and reverse, and when it's in neutral it should be
>>> "off" right? The switch is pretty solid, moves smoothly, and
>>> seems to be in good working order. But definitely nothing in
>>> forward. Just reverse, and neutral. This with me holding it
>>> my hand and testing it. It doesn't need to ground to the shifter
>>> housing does it? It's just a switch - shouldn't need to. Help!
>>>
>>> thanks, Jeff
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>>> OMC-Boats@...
>>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 00:35:32 -0700
> From: Scott Veazie <scottveazie@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] another shifter switch question....
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <BLU103-W177A87462E3486760B90C4B4FA0@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> I've seen another OMC setup on a Carver jury-rigged with a simple electrical
> toggle switch...pretty risky but if you are careful this could get you
> through the rest of the season. The three-way toggle would apply power
> forward when up, none in the center position, and power when down. Worth a
> try...just don't change selections unless your RPM's are low. If you don't
> pay attention, you could flip the switch under full power...not a good idea.
> use at own risk!
>
>
> On another note...took mine out today...noticed it doesn't like to start as
> easy when the upper exhaust "hole" relief is under water...got it started,
> ran great, the Sport SE300 hydrofoil worked well, the water wasn't very
> smooth today so it was hard to tell if the foil was changing ride
> smoothness...but for the first time I could actually TURN under power....and
> it got up on plane faster. Hooray!
>
> ~Scott
>
>> From: jdood@...
>> To: omc-boats@...
>> Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 22:58:10 -0700
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] another shifter switch question....
>>
>> Test before taking out? And risk finding that it doesn't work
>> thereby ruining my plans to take it to the ramp and launch it as if it
>> did? Now why would I wanna do that?
>>
>> Ok latest and greatest - I got it put back together and have nice
>> consistent power to the green wire when i move the shift lever into
>> reverse, and nice consistent power to the blue wire when in
>> neutral. I know, I know - something ain't quite right bout that.
>> A big part of me wants to take it to the ramp and see if miraculously
>> forward and reverse work just fine......but that's also the part of me
>> that didn't test things completely before going to the ramp last time.
>>
>> I'm pretty screwed here. About another 3 -4 weeks left in season.
>> No time to order and wait for anything - plus really not crazy about
>> $200 for new one. SOOOO - is there any reason I can't just leave
>> the wire that lights up in neutral disconnected, Connect the green
>> wire that lights up in reverse to the forward blue wire from the
>> outdrive, and just limp around on the water without a working
>> reverse? Atleast I would have a working forward to get by with until
>> the end of season. Not great, not super safe w/o reverse I know
>> - but I'm more interested in knowing if there is any tech reason that
>> wouldn't work? I definitely don't want to risk even the slightest
>> damage to any outdrive stuff, but it seems that it would work just
>> fine. I guess it would also mean having to move the shift lever
>> back to accelerate forward, but i could deal with that.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Aug 22, 2009, at 3:19 PM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
>>
>> > jeff,
>> >
>> > Nothing is grounded on the remote shifter housing. The SWITCH is
>> > simply a SPDT type (SONGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW). You send it +12 volts
>> > to it's middle (purple) wire. More it FORWARD and the 12 V is
>> > "joined" to the green wire. In Netural nothin is joined. In Reverse
>> > the middle wire and the BLUE are joined. I believe the middle wire
>> > which supplies the 12 V is purple. On a 5-wire the two white wires
>> > are the Neutral-only starter. They become unjoined when the switch
>> > is in FORWARD OR REVERSE. The are "joined" when the switch is in
>> > neutral allowing current to flow to the starter switch.
>> >
>> > This is really pretty simple. I don't know how else to explain it.
>> > If you have disconnected the remote control from the point and it
>> > fails the SIMPLE CONSTINUITY TEST with a light or ohmmeter, then you
>> > have a bad switch and must replace the switchl
>> >
>> > As a mentioned earlier the failure rate is very high on these
>> > switches in the Johnson/OMC single-lever control. The likely hood of
>> > having a spare remote control with a DEFECTIVE switch is very high.
>> >
>> > Did you not test the replacement switch before taking the boat out?
>> >
>> > Lee
>> >
>> >
>> > On Aug 22, 2009, at 11:07 AM, jd wrote:
>> >
>> >> took boat to river yesterday with original shifter housing /
>> >> swapped out switch. No forward or reverse. Took housing apart
>> >> at dock and fiddled with switch. It lights up the tester
>> >> REVERSE and NEUTRAL (moving the little arm back and forth). But
>> >> not forward. Am I missing something here? Should light up
>> >> in forward and reverse, and when it's in neutral it should be
>> >> "off" right? The switch is pretty solid, moves smoothly, and
>> >> seems to be in good working order. But definitely nothing in
>> >> forward. Just reverse, and neutral. This with me holding it
>> >> my hand and testing it. It doesn't need to ground to the shifter
>> >> housing does it? It's just a switch - shouldn't need to. Help!
>> >>
>> >> thanks, Jeff
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> >> OMC-Boats@...
>> >> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > OMC-Boats mailing list
>> > OMC-Boats@...
>> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 09:40:45 -0600
> From: Lee Shuster <lks@...>
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <D9771571-1084-43C1-870D-372CE1A35135@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed";
> DelSp="yes"
>
> The following is lifted directly from the 1969 OMC/JOHNSON/EVINRUDE
> STERNDRIVE SERVICE MANUAL:
>
> ===========================
> SHIFTING DEFECTIVE CHECK:
>
> (NOTE: Ignition Key Swicth ON to check electric shift)
>
> MOVE Shift lever to forward. Propeller should turn by hand forward
> (clockwise). But when turned in opposite direction (counter-
> clockwise), it should engage clutch after partial revolution.
> MOVE Shift Lever to reverse. Observe opposite behavior.
>
> If propellor turns freely in both directions when in forward or
> reverse, then clutch is not engaging. Watch ammeter very closely when
> shifting. If needle shows slight (-) negative discharge, you can
> assume problem is mechanical.
> This will necessitate disassembly of gearcase.
>
> NOTES:
>
> When Shifting check ammeter. If draw is considerably more than the 2.5
> amps the electro-magnetic shift should draw, this would indicate a
> short in the wiring. Disconnect knife-edge connectors at intermediate
> housing and check again. If current draw is still excessive, this
> would indicate a short in the control box or wiring rather than the
> drive unit.
>
> If gearcase will not come out of either forward or reverse, even when
> shifting lever is moved: Check control box. In assembly, toggle switch
> arm may not have been inserted into slot in throttle lever. This
> results in bending the switch arm and permanently leaving switch in
> either forward or reverse.
>
> If engine stops abruptly when shifting, explore the possibility that
> both shift wires have a bare spot and could possibly short to each
> other. This would allow gearcase to be engage in both foreword and
> reverse at the same time which could result in broken drive shaft.
>
> ===========================
>
> Jeff and others reading this list: Please review the factory diagram
> I've posted here:
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/images/wiring/68_v6_ALL_WIRE.jpg
>
> Sorry for the "preachy" attitude here, but personally, I would NOT
> recommend "jerry-rigging" ANY type of alternative electric shift
> controls or "make-shift" alternative toggle switches for the purpose
> of operating the electric shift coils. It's UNSAFE and you risk
> destroying your engine and drive. Just not worth it for an extra
> weekend or three at the end of the season. Take the time and do it
> right. If you don't want to spend the big bucks on a third-party
> switch for your single-lever Johnson/OMC control, then I would
> recommend a used Evinrude push-button remote control. I've never head
> of a switch failure in those units. (The sliding mechanical window or
> aperture can slip out of adjustment - but any resourceful Captain
> with Phillips driver can fix that - just ask BC (see his page/photos
> on the OMC boat web)
>
> BTW, Jeff from your "difficult-for-me-to-decipher" troubleshooting
> description, I think you have a possibly, of having incorrectly
> installed the switch (mechanically) in the remote control housing (see
> "red" above).
>
> Lee
>
>
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>
> End of OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 28, Issue 47
> *****************************************
>
Received on Sunday, 23 August 2009