On Aug 23, 2009, at 8:40 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>
>
>
> ===========================
>
> Jeff and others reading this list: Please review the factory
> diagram I've posted here:
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/images/wiring/68_v6_ALL_WIRE.jpg
>
> Sorry for the "preachy" attitude here, but personally, I would NOT
> recommend "jerry-rigging" ANY type of alternative electric shift
> controls or "make-shift" alternative toggle switches for the purpose
> of operating the electric shift coils. It's UNSAFE and you risk
> destroying your engine and drive. Just not worth it for an extra
> weekend or three at the end of the season.
well, had i checked my email before leaving my house this AM I might
not have, but I ended up installing a toggle and took it out for a
test. Yes it's a little weird, but it went ok. I get what
you're saying - not safe and risky to engine - but I need to drill
down on those two things so i fully understand the stakes here.
SAFETY: Is the main issue is that the engine can accidentally be
started while in F or R right? Or is there another safety concern?
Because with a 3 wire switch, I would still have that same safety
issue. What's the difference?
MECHANICAL RISK: Is it the risk of accidentally switching while
underway? Tripping the switch at too high RPM? If so, makes
sense. But If the factory switch was working / installed properly and
I moved the shift lever from forward to neutral to reverse - what
happens with the engine RPM when it goes into neutral for that second
or two? What's the "safe" max RPM to shift around?
Am I forgetting something - or are those the two main concerns? I
absolutely don't want to damage my engine. I'm fine with launching
myself out of the seat through the windshield and into the water by
accidentally changing gears at high speed, but I'm not fine with
damaging my engine.
> Take the time and do it right. If you don't want to spend the big
> bucks on a third-party switch for your single-lever Johnson/OMC
> control, then I would recommend a used Evinrude push-button remote
> control. I've never head of a switch failure in those units. (The
> sliding mechanical window or aperture can slip out of adjustment -
> but any resourceful Captain with Phillips driver can fix that - just
> ask BC (see his page/photos on the OMC boat web)
>
> BTW, Jeff from your "difficult-for-me-to-decipher" troubleshooting
> description, I think you have a possibly, of having incorrectly
> installed the switch (mechanically) in the remote control housing
> (see "red" above).
That was 1/2 the problem with the new switch. Just as the manual
says, the little roller was slipping out of the slot. Quite a
challenge seeing that happening when everything is closed up and
hidden in the housing. Used my xray vision.. The other 1/2 of
the problem i guess i didn't explain well enough was that even when I
was holding the switch in my hand and testing it with the light, it
only lit up in neutral and reverse positions. Not forward.
>
> Lee
>
>
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Received on Monday, 24 August 2009
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