I can always count on you Lee. I don't know how I missed that manual,
but now I have it so I'm golden. Gave me some specs I needed. Most of
the other important specs are on home made labels inside the glove
compartment lid. The previous owner was seriously anal. By reading the
manual, it confirmed my guess that the windshield holder is indeed a
fold out table. It's made of particle board covered with stylish wood
grain contact paper. I'm thinking I may cover it with a sheet of
stainless, then I can use my portable grill on it. Burgers on the
lake. Yum!
Ok about the fast idle deal. With the lever all the way on, my idle is
WAY higher than 1500-1700. In fact, when it first started, it raced
above an indicated 3000 rpm, I quickly backed it down. I want to check
it with a different tach though. I suspect the built in one may be
telling lies. It was above 1500, but it didn't sound like 3000 to me.
So, is there an adjustment independent of the idle to adjust the fast
idle operation? I know, get the service manual. I ordered one. But I'd
like to be able to get started until it gets here.
As always, thank you guys for all the input. This is a valuable resource.
On Sat, Aug 29, 2009 at 8:11 AM, Lee Shuster<lks@...> wrote:
> Standard idle 500 - 600 RPM FULL FAST/START IDLE 1500 - 1700 RPM
> LINK to MANUAL:
> http://www.ultimate.com/omc-boats/gallery/lit.html
> 1967 Johnson Surfer Owner's Manual
> Lee
>
> On Aug 28, 2009, at 9:21 PM, Justin DeSantis wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the advice Lee. I'm confident I can tackle any work
> that needs done. I'm new to I/O boats, but not new to working on stuff
> that's broken. I'm a laid off certified tech for 8 motorcycle lines,
> state inspection license. Fully equipped shop. Yadda yadda. Once I can
> get a few hours with no rain, I'll be able to get out there and really
> look it over and track down the problem. Let me ask you this, with the
> fast idle all the way on, how fast should the boat be idling? And
> normal idle speed is 550?
>
> Varnish doesn't appear to be my problem. Tank is clean and smooth, you
> could eat off the interior of it. Fuel filter is new, and clean. Carb
> is clean as well. I'm thinking the gas may just be a bit old and
> possibly have some water in it. The mine in which the previous owner
> stored the boat only allowed it to have a half tank of gas. So I think
> maybe some condensation on the inside of the tank may have gotten
> moisture in the fuel. I'm hoping anyhow. I will check the timing and
> dwell though.
>
> Table thing... I only have the one photo and it's too dark now to take
> more. This is the only one I have for now.
> http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee285/nitsujcbr/good%20ship%20lollypop/IMG_1458.jpg
> I wasn't aware that there was a manual for download. My searching
> didn't turn up with anything. Do you have a link by chance?
>
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 28, 2009 at 10:43 PM, Lee Shuster<lks@...> wrote:
>
> BC pretty much took the words out of my mouth.
>
> 1) Engine: Simple in theory: It pretty much is all about delivery of
>
> perfectly timed spark with the proper amount of clean fuel. But in practice
>
> with 40+ year old parts it's another story, that even taken a step at a time
>
> can interfere with our basic need to "I just want go
>
> fishing/skiing/diving/wakeboarding/crusing, not spend a lifetime working on
>
> this old tub." You basically need to step back and commit to learning how
>
> to do basic engine tuning )setting points, dwell, timing, etc and performing
>
> some mechanical repairs such as carb cleaning, rebuilding, adjusting. Or
>
> find yourself a trusted mechanic.
>
> The single largest contributor to electric shift failures is that people
>
> don't know how to keep them running at their design idle speed properly.
>
> Your Buick should idle smooth as butter at 550 RPM, after a few minutes of
>
> warm up time (130 -140 deg F at thermostat.) when it's dialed in or properly
>
> tuned up to published spec. These are things you need experience, tools and
>
> manuals to accomplish or alternatively a trusted mechanic.
>
> 2) Fuel -- Fresh fuel "helps" (maybe) but the entire fuel system can "hide"
>
> varnish, rust and moisture and can take literally dozens of hours or even
>
> entire seasons to fully filter or flush out. I always start any vehicle
>
> restoration by pulling the tank and having it profession cleaned and
>
> re-lined, you really have to start all the way up the chain.. Do a google on
>
> the RENU tank process. Also installing a modern fuel separation filter is a
>
> good idea over the off-season. Replace the existing fuel filters as well.
>
> Drop the carb bowls and check float levels and valve seating. If you decide
>
> to go the rebuilt carb roue (and I'm not saying you need too -- be sure and
>
> get a MARINE-rated replacement. Trust me, taking short cuts rarely pays off.
>
> She wants and needs the TLC treatment, skip it and she'll embarrass you at
>
> the worst possible time!
>
> 3) Steering -- 99.9% of the OMC built boats use the aircraft style
>
> rope-over-pulley (I believe I am one of the few who converted to TruCourse,
>
> a OMC push-push type steering). Is it perfect no? Can you avoid issues YES!
>
> Never raise the power tilt unless the drive is pointer straight ahead.
>
> Don't turn the drive while it is in the up position. Try to resist extremely
>
> fast lock-to-lock helm wheelspins ) you know, Cowboy turns to show off your
>
> OMC stringer's wonderful sharp turning ability? . (Don't install a "necker"
>
> knob on your steering wheel.) If you follow this advice you probably won't
>
> encounter steering problems.
>
> 4) Table/windshield thing? You'll need to provide more detailed photos.
>
> Perhaps another 67 Surfer owner can chime in? Nothing like that on my
>
> Sportsman. Have you downloaded the free. available Surfer owners manual? It
>
> usually explains these model-specific features. BRP/OMC may still carry your
>
> owners manual as well. Grab one while you can if they still have your
>
> specific model.
>
> Lee
>
>
> On Aug 28, 2009, at 6:22 PM, BC Howk wrote:
>
> Justin,
>
> Not much experience with the Buick V-8....
>
> Some new Gas certainly won't hurt. Are you adjusting just the idle speed?
>
> have you messed with the idle mixture yet? Did you check the timing? Did you
>
> let it get good and warm? Sounds like you have some mechanical experience
>
> so sure you got most of this covered but have to double check.... My
>
> experience with the V6 nailhead has been.... Fresh oil, fresh plugs, warm it
>
> up, check/ adjust the timing (if you havent put on a pertronix kit yet check
>
> your points and dwell and consider the kit), adjust the mixture (with a
>
> vacuum guage) adjust the idle speed, then repeat, timing, mixture, idle
>
> until I can get no further improvement, and she runs great. Once it's dialed
>
> in the seasonal tune up isn't so bad.
>
> I think it is just about universaly accepted that the cable and pulley set
>
> up is......"sub-optimal" particularly compared to the tru course
>
> system...that being said.. I still run the cable and pulley system and it
>
> works pretty well. Just check the cable for any fraying in the vynil jackets
>
> as this can cause you to slip a pulley , then you have to crawl under the
>
> dash and take apart the pulley get the cable back on, yadda, yadda,
>
> yadda....
>
> If you have the time, run across a good deal on a true course set up and
>
> feel you want a project, convert!! Otherwise, if you take care of your
>
> cables/pulleys they will serve you fairly well. I restrung mine a couple
>
> years ago and think it may not have been the first time, but I detected some
>
> less than desirable methodology on the set of cables I replaced (missing
>
> shock springs ect.) If your set up is in good shape, just take it easy with
>
> the wild manuvers and you'll be fine,.
>
> Knowing what I have under there I actually find the steering suprisingly
>
> crisp and easy at speed (remember, judging on a curve, I know whats behind
>
> that steering...amazing)
>
> Cheers,
>
> B.C.
>
> On Aug 28, 2009, Justin DeSantis <duc1098desmo@...> wrote:
>
> I found a few things. It fired right up, but the fast idle level seems
>
> to make it idle way faster than I'd like. I had to turn it almost all
>
> the way down to get it in to what I felt comfortable with. And no
>
> amount of warming up seemed to let it want to run without the lever.
>
> If I tried to get it to 1000rpm on the tach it would die. I'm thinking
>
> (hoping) that filling it with fresh gas and running it a bit will cure
>
> that. Not other major problems found. Horn has resumed normal
>
> operation, I'm thinking the battery was just low.
>
> Let me ask this, how reliable is the steering system? That cable
>
> running back the length of the boat and changing direction a few times
>
> seems like a good place for a failure to happen. Anything to worry
>
> about there?
>
> Still haven't figured out the table windshield holder thing, but
>
> didn't really put any time in to it.
>
> Looked at the transom. Sort of hard to read. It's maybe a little soft,
>
> but not rotten. It pretty much looks and feels like 42 year old wood.
>
> Anything I can put on it to strengthen it or keep it from getting
>
> worse?
>
> I think that was all the questions I came up with today.
>
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Received on Saturday, 29 August 2009
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