Re: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator

Take this with a huge grain of salt, because I'm a motorcycle tech,
not a boat tech. But on a bike, the regulator/rectifier is easy enough
to check. Put a meter on the battery with the engine running. If it
reads charging voltage (13.5 or above) the regulator is good. If not,
it's either a stator (alternator) or the reg/rec. One some bikes you
have to be above idle because they don't charge at idle. I don't know
if this works on boats though. But I thought I'd throw it out there,
if for no other reason than to find out if I can use this method if I
ever have the same problem.

On Mon, Aug 31, 2009 at 10:35 AM, BLDFW<bldfw@...> wrote:
> OK....Then let me share my latest symptoms......
>
> Previously I had rebuilt the carb and enjoyed several successful runs back
> and forth across the lake but as the hour ran on, performance slowly started
> to denigrate due to poor gas. I followed that up by cleaning the tank and
> replacing plug wires.
>
> Since then I've experienced fuel starvation symptons wherein it would get up
> on plane but then within seconds would die and then be restartable right
> away and repeat again. It would run good at lower RPM's but then die as
> soon as you got her up on plane. As before, as the hour ran on, performance
> would denigrate and would get prrogressively harder to start from lack of
> battery power. With the lack of apparent charging and being told by the
> alternator repair company that it was bad, I replaced the alternator with a
> completely new (not rebuilt) one.
>
> Last weekend, same thing. It would bog down as the throttle opened. I was
> able to get up on plane only briefly once. I may have contributed to that
> by changing the idle set screws. While we were out I noticed the top of the
> carb was wet so we shut down and I adjusted the float thinking it was
> allowing too much fuel. Mistake. On the way back to the marina I could
> only get 1500 RPMs max and it would start to bog down. By the time I got
> back to the loading ramp it was hard to keep her running.
>
> When I got home I removed the carb again. I found a little bit of residual
> mud in the bottom of the fuel bowl which is believed to have come from the
> dirty gas on the one run after the rebuild. I did some prefunctory
> cleaning. Gas is running clean and carb is clean. I readjusted the idle
> screws by closing them and then backing them out 2.5 turns this time.
>
> Yesterday, I took her out and still encountered problems. I was able to get
> up on plane with RPMs up to 3400 before encountering problems. Without
> touching the throttle she started to slow down. I purposes left the
> throttle alone. The RPMs slowly started to come down to the point of barely
> running but it didn't behave as though it were gas related. It just felt
> like it was running weaker and weaker. When it died, I had trouble
> starting. I'd turn the key and nothing! Nada....then a click, then the
> rattling of the solinoid as you get on a low battery. Turning the key on
> and off a few times I was able to get it crank over weakly and she'd start
> right up again. That repeated until insufficient power to restart. I had a
> rescue buddy hanging with me for that purpose so we tied the boat up behind
> his house boat and went off to enjoy the afternoon (sans using my boat).
>
> After a couple of hours we tried the key again. It had sufficient power to
> crank but I told him to just tow me back to the marina as I'd need what
> little power might be left to get to the boat ramp. Sure enough, it started
> but by the time I idled over to the boat ramp, it would barely run and
> eventually died with no power to restart.
>
> Here's what I've done thus far:
> -- New battery
> -- New plugs, points, condenser.
> -- New plug wires (checked and rechecked multple times)
> -- New alternator
> -- Dismantled, soaked and cleaned carb
> -- Removed, dumped and cleaned fuel tank
> -- New fuel filter (still showing clean with not particulates)
> -- Timing is set a 5 BTDC per the manual.
>
> Thinks I have not done yet:
> -- Voltage Regulator
> -- Coil
> -- Sell boat.
>
> I'm open to any and all suggestions!
>
> -Bill
> Dallas, TX
> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>
>
>
> --- On Mon, 8/31/09, Lee Shuster <Lee.Shuster@...> wrote:
>
> From: Lee Shuster <Lee.Shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Date: Monday, August 31, 2009, 8:40 AM
>
> Croos-reference BRP/OMC part No 383440 (Always shown as part of Cooling
> Group, due to mounting location).
>
> Barsanco.com Sierra, and BRP/OMC should all stock these. They are still
> fairly common at this point.
>
> Lee
>
> PS -- These rarely fail. The single most common cause of failure is when
> owners install and improperly load-switch a dual battery system.
>
>
>
> ________________________________________
> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
> [omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of BLDFW [bldfw@...]
> Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2009 8:33 PM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator
>
> Just checking on a good source for a replacement voltage regulator.
>
> Prestolite VSC-2602E 12y
>
> I'm browsing now so now would be a good time to get a response (Lee, I see
> you still out there posting away!). ;-)
>
> -Bill
> Dallas, TX
> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>
>
>
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Received on Monday, 31 August 2009