Re: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator

OMG! I can't imagine the frustration with that toilet fiasco.
There's always gonna be probs with a "project" but not usually to that
degree. Sounds like my entire summer last year Tryin to fix up a 78
van (to tow boat) at the same time as a 64 boat. At one point on the
same day literally both were in the shop getting new engines put in
because the previous engines bit the dust. Just days apart. I was
about ready to lose my mind. I thought stuff like that only
happened to me. Nice to know others have to go through it too. Haha

On Aug 31, 2009, at 2:36 PM, ANDY PERAKES <aperakes@...>
wrote:

> New parts aren't always better than what they replace. I about went
> nuts trying to track a cooling problem on a car before finally
> discovering the impeller on the NEW water pump I had installed
> wasn't anchored to the shaft. It felt tight at install, but
> loosened during operation and was a bear to diagnose (this was a
> restoration project so there was a lot of work going on and it was
> not obviously traceable to the new water pump). Another time I
> about went nuts trying to find a leak on a new toilet I was
> installing. I couldn't believe it was still leaking after the 2nd
> install so I finally set it up on blocks and filled the bowl with
> water. Sure enough it was weeping right through the porcelain where
> American Standard had tried to patch it. Got another replacement
> and it did the same thing. Went through the entire home depot
> inventory and every freakin' one had 1-4 repairs on it (obviously
> the design engineers forgot to talk to manufacturing on that one).
> Got my money back and swore off American Standard (they were really
> snotty when I complained about it too). Bottom line, don't rule out
> a potentially suspect part just because its new.
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "BLDFW" <bldfw@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...
> >
> Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 1:38:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator
>
>
> Thanks Lee,
>
> I'm charging up the battery as I type this. I don't have the
> original AMP meter any longer. I'm going to recheck some of my dash
> wiring today to be sure I have that voltage gauge wired right. I
> turned the key on and it was sitting at about 10.5. Just for grins
> to see what would happen, I hooked up the charger and plugged it
> in. The gauge didn't flicker one iota. You'd think it should have
> done something, no?
>
> As for the coil, I think I'm going to replace it anyway as I have no
> idea how old the current on is. Some might say it's a waste of
> money but at least I would be starting clean and know where it's
> been. I'll also check the ballast resistor. I assume I need to
> disconnect it from other sources first.
>
> I'll keep you posted.
>
> -Bill
> Dallas, TX
> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>
>
> --- On Mon, 8/31/09, Lee Shuster <Lee.Shuster@...> wrote:
>
> From: Lee Shuster <Lee.Shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator
> To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'" <omc-boats@...
> >
> Date: Monday, August 31, 2009, 10:58 AM
>
> Bill,
>
> Some very simple tools and basic checks that can be done in your
> driveway will be very helpful.
>
> 1) As I recall you re-did your instrument panel? So I'm not sure
> where you stand with your original ammeter, which would normally
> tell you the working state of your alternator and voltage regulator.
>
> So know you simply need to:
> a) start out with a fully charged battery, verified with a specific
> gravity reading and voltmeter.
> b) Clean and recheck all cables and ground points.
> c) Measure the primary side resistance of the coil with an ohmmeter
> and also measure the resistance of the ballast resistor, (both are
> relatively easy to replace).
> d) Use an inductive clamp-on ammeter to measure charging/discharging
> rate, or insert your old ammeter in series with the positive battery
> cable lead going up to the helm (don't wire it in the battery's full
> circuit without using a shunt, as it doesn't have the capacity to
> handle the starter motor current draw and you will burn out the
> meter.)
> e) As an alternative you could take your Prestolite Alternator and
> external voltage regulator into any decent motor-alternator shop and
> they could bench check it for you. (One of the main reasons GM-
> Delco and much of the industry went to an integrated, or built-in
> regulator in most alternators, is most people tend to overlook the
> regulator when troubleshooting alternator problems.)
> f) Also, as previously mentioned, a simple voltmeter reading
> directly at the battery will show evidence of alternator charring. A
> properly operating alternator and voltage regulator will read about
> 13.9 to 14.1 after the engine has had time to recharge a fully
> charged battery battery after a normal turn-key (quick) start.
>
> I'm not ruling out fuel problems at this point, but from what you
> have done (and not done) and what you describe as symptoms, I think
> you need to focus on electrical. The good thing is most of these
> checks can be done in your drive on the hose.
>
> Lee
>
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-
> bounces@...] On Behalf Of Scott Veazie
> Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 9:17 AM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator
>
> Bill,
>
> Sounds like some of the problems I had a few years ago, to a
> degree. I would certainly replace the coil, a weak coil will work
> well cold but with engine heat it will degrade performance as heat
> builds up. Also, do you have a clear fuel filter near the carb?
> I'm not sure they're compliant with USCG regs...but if you have a
> nice glass clear one that can be disassembled you can see what's
> going on and clean it out. When my Seasport that I had would go
> along at a good clip and then run out of gas, I found it to be fuel
> starvation due to the fact that there was a clog. What I would do
> it get her on plane, and then run back and look at the filter to see
> how much fuel was in it. It's advisable to do this with two people,
> but I managed. Also, one other thing you didn't mention replacing
> is the fuel pump. My '65 Chev truck would do the same thing when
> the pump was checking out. Either replace it with another
> mechanical or go electric.
>
> ~Scott
>
> Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 07:35:59 -0700
> From: bldfw@...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator
>
> OK....Then let me share my latest symptoms......
>
> Previously I had rebuilt the carb and enjoyed several successful
> runs back and forth across the lake but as the hour ran on,
> performance slowly started to denigrate due to poor gas. I followed
> that up by cleaning the tank and replacing plug wires.
>
> Since then I've experienced fuel starvation symptons wherein it
> would get up on plane but then within seconds would die and then be
> restartable right away and repeat again. It would run good at lower
> RPM's but then die as soon as you got her up on plane. As before,
> as the hour ran on, performance would denigrate and would get
> prrogressively harder to start from lack of battery power. With the
> lack of apparent charging and being told by the alternator repair
> company that it was bad, I replaced the alternator with a completely
> new (not rebuilt) one.
>
> Last weekend, same thing. It would bog down as the throttle
> opened. I was able to get up on plane only briefly once. I may
> have contributed to that by changing the idle set screws. While we
> were out I noticed the top of the carb was wet so we shut down and I
> adjusted the float thinking it was allowing too much fuel.
> Mistake. On the way back to the marina I could only get 1500 RPMs
> max and it would start to bog down. By the time I got back to the
> loading ramp it was hard to keep her running.
>
> When I got home I removed the carb again. I found a little bit of
> residual mud in the bottom of the fuel bowl which is believed to
> have come from the dirty gas on the one run after the rebuild. I
> did some prefunctory cleaning. Gas is running clean and carb is
> clean. I readjusted the idle screws by closing them and then
> backing them out 2.5 turns this time.
>
> Yesterday, I took her out and still encountered problems. I was
> able to get up on plane with RPMs up to 3400 before encountering
> problems. Without touching the throttle she started to slow down.
> I purposes left the throttle alone. The RPMs slowly started to come
> down to the point of barely running but it didn't behave as though
> it were gas related. It just felt like it was running weaker and
> weaker. When it died, I had trouble starting. I'd turn the key and
> nothing! Nada....then a click, then the rattling of the solinoid as
> you get on a low battery. Turning the key on and off a few times I
> was able to get it crank over weakly and she'd start right up
> again. That repeated until insufficient power to restart. I had a
> rescue buddy hanging with me for that purpose so we tied the boat up
> behind his house boat and went off to enjoy the afternoon (sans
> using my boat).
>
> After a couple of hours we tried the key again. It had sufficient
> power to crank but I told him to just tow me back to the marina as
> I'd need what little power might be left to get to the boat ramp.
> Sure enough, it started but by the time I idled over to the boat
> ramp, it would barely run and eventually died with no power to
> restart.
>
> Here's what I've done thus far:
> -- New battery
> -- New plugs, points, condenser.
> -- New plug wires (checked and rechecked multple times)
> -- New alternator
> -- Dismantled, soaked and cleaned carb
> -- Removed, dumped and cleaned fuel tank
> -- New fuel filter (still showing clean with not particulates)
> -- Timing is set a 5 BTDC per the manual.
>
> Thinks I have not done yet:
> -- Voltage Regulator
> -- Coil
> -- Sell boat.
>
> I'm open to any and all suggestions!
>
> -Bill
> Dallas, TX
> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>
>
>
> --- On Mon, 8/31/09, Lee Shuster <Lee.Shuster@...> wrote:
>
> From: Lee Shuster <Lee.Shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...
> >
> Date: Monday, August 31, 2009, 8:40 AM
>
> Croos-reference BRP/OMC part No 383440 (Always shown as part of
> Cooling Group, due to mounting location).
>
> Barsanco.com Sierra, and BRP/OMC should all stock these. They are
> still fairly common at this point.
>
> Lee
>
> PS -- These rarely fail. The single most common cause of failure is
> when owners install and improperly load-switch a dual battery system.
>
>
>
> ________________________________________
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [omc-boats-
> bounces@...] On Behalf Of BLDFW [bldfw@...]
> Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2009 8:33 PM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Replacement Voltage Regulator
>
> Just checking on a good source for a replacement voltage regulator.
>
> Prestolite VSC-2602E 12y
>
> I'm browsing now so now would be a good time to get a response (Lee,
> I see you still out there posting away!). ;-)
>
> -Bill
> Dallas, TX
> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>
>
>
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Received on Monday, 31 August 2009