[OMC-Boats] Jeff D Engine drop off

I was having a similar thing - run up to about 2000 rpm and it stumbles and
eventually would cut off. I think it was a vacuum leak at one of the rubber
caps - this would prevent the secondary carb. circuit from entering. Check
those rubber caps for cracks or some other vacuum leak in the system. Tom K.
----- Original Message -----
From: <omc-boats-request@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 12:00 PM
Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 29, Issue 36

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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Radio questions... (Justin DeSantis)
> 2. Re: oil leak.... (jason cohn)
> 3. Re: Radio questions... (BC Howk)
> 4. Re: Radio questions... (Justin DeSantis)
> 5. Re: Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control conversion
> (Lee Shuster)
> 6. Re: Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control conversion
> (Scott Veazie)
> 7. Re: Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control conversion
> (Lee Shuster)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 23:40:55 -0400
> From: Justin DeSantis <duc1098desmo@...>
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Radio questions...
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID:
> <5282a5b50909242040g6a54b6fen352834c8c063ec76@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Lets talk radios. Any of you guys know much about VHF radios? I've
> discussed it with the guys on one of the boat forums, but they don't
> tend to share the McGyver spirit we have on this list. So here's my
> question... As we've discussed, when I got my boat, it had this
> obsolete Loran system on it. I have no need for the Loran, but I would
> like to get a VHF radio. So I understand that the Loran and the VHF
> use different antenna's. But I like the location of the Loran antenna.
> And it fold up nice. To replacate it with a VHF antenna would be
> expensive. Is there any way to modify the Loran antenna to work with
> the VHF? I'd really like to be able to.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 23:42:40 -0600
> From: jason cohn <a36redhead@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] oil leak....
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <COL122-W34608DEC6B5089F0105DA9D0D90@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
>
> I jus bought another 1968 rogue 210 II from a family that had owned it
> since 1975 . To my surprise the HULL ID #S are 2618 and 2619 . I checked
> the serial #s and there are 3 apart . What are the chances these two
> brothers would come back together . both are the exact same models down to
> the paint color . I now have the oppotunity to pick n choose as to the
> best conitioned parts for my baby .. The rogue i jus purchased has the
> original head in the boat too .. Something mine was missing . I feel very
> blessed to have a pair of evinrude boats manufactured over 40 yrs ago . I
> will keep you all posd as to the progress of the brothers ..
>
>> From: Lee.Shuster@...
>> To: omc-boats@...
>> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:52:08 -0600
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] oil leak....
>>
>> CORRECTION! ALL 252's were EVEN fire. Sorry. I need to proofread more
>> carefully.
>>
>> Lee
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
>> [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of Lee Shuster
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 2:14 PM
>> To: 'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] oil leak....
>>
>> I'm not sure why? But don't aftermarket manifold suppliers provide both
>> even and odd fire Buick V6 intake manifolds?
>>
>> No Even-Fire OMC-Buick-Jeep-Kaiser were ever sold, including the 1971-72
>> OMC that were still based on the odd-fire Buick 225. There were both
>> even and odd fire versions of the 231. The 252's were all odd-fire. Only
>> the 225 OF was converted to marine use. (Later on OMC offered the
>> 90-degree Chevy V6 in various versions.)
>>
>> I sent a link yesterday or Sunday from a place in Canada that listed all
>> the various versions of Rochester 2-Jet's including various MARINE model
>> numbers. I'm pretty certain you don't want an emissions-era carb on your
>> application just because it might physically fit better. How do you
>> really know for certain that your old carb is an OMC marine supplied
>> original?
>>
>> If it were mine, I'd track down a used but serviceable 225 (odd-fire)
>> intake manifold and get all the original OMC-style linkages and fuel
>> fittings. I might opt for an electric choke, depending on the range of
>> weather conditions I intend to operate the boat in. (Chokes don't really
>> do much in 75 deg F weather.)
>>
>> Lee
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
>> [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of jd
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 10:25 AM
>> To: bchowk@...; Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] oil leak....
>>
>> ahhhh - it's an even fire 252 V6 manifold - ok. Thanks for digging
>> that up. Nevermind the carb fit issue, but it shouldn't affect
>> anything else with the engine performace to have an even fire manifold
>> on an odd fire engine should it? The water and air are still going
>> to flow around in there regardless of which piston is firing in what
>> order right?
>>
>>
>> So my bigger question is did the even fire's end up in any OMC
>> boats? Was it just for cars? What i'm getting at is if there was
>> a marine version of the even fire, then maybe there's a marine version
>> Rochester carb out there for it that will fit the bigger bolt pattern and
>> allow me to get rid of all those stupid adapter plates and
>> gaskets i have to have to make the odd fire RC2 carb fit. Unless it
>> was getting me some big performance boost (which it's not) I hate
>> having that jury rigged home made crap on my engine. Even though it
>> worked. But I LIKE having that extra water temp port on this even
>> fire manifold, i'm using that port, and I don't want to necessarily
>> go back to the "correct" manifold and lose that port. So If flying
>> fish for example had a 252 V6 RC2 carb maybe i'd be set with the best of
>> both worlds.
>>
>> I have my existing carb all boxed up ready to send back for a re-
>> build, but now that I know what I have and can talk to them further
>> about it all - thanks!!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 21, 2009, at 7:01 PM, BC Howk wrote:
>>
>> > I second Scotts offer, I would enjoy the chance to look at another OMC
>> > boat and compare notes...one of these days I think it would be cool to
>> > do a "cruise in" out on the Willamette
>> >
>> >
>> > Glad you found your oil leak, I was concerned that you might have
>> > damaged one of your gaskets looking for that rattling noise...
>> >
>> >
>> > Your research confirmed my suspision, your manifold is for an EVEN
>> > fire buick V6. The 225 ODD Fire is basically a V8 with 2 cylinders
>> > lopped off as Buick decided to make something a little smoother idling
>> > they changed the crank, cam and firing order, recycled pistons from
>> > their current v8 production in 1973 an voila 231 even fire,
>> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_V6_engine
>> > which settles another cuiosity I've had for a long time, an even fire
>> > manifold DOES work on the 225, which makes me think the inverse might
>> > be true......interesting.....You'r manifold will also go on the 252
>> > evenfire.
>> >
>> > Looks like you are getting this all settled out...glad to hear it.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > B.C.
>> >
>> >
>> > On Sep 21, 2009, Scott Veazie <scottveazie@...> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hey Jeff,
>> >
>> > Let me know if you need an extra set of eyeballs to look things
>> > over..I've always found that someone to do a quick look over can find
>> > something simple that I miss on my own..
>> >
>> >
>> > ~Scott
>> >
>> > > From: jdood@...
>> > > To: omc-boats@...
>> > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 12:45:07 -0700
>> > > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] oil leak....
>> > >
>> > > well actually here's the latest from my oil leak saga (had this all
>> > > typed up but i think it didn't send - sorry if duplicate):
>> > >
>> > > bought 5 qts and poured the first qt into my nice clean engine.
>> > > Literally as I'm pouring it in, its coming back out somewhere and
>> > > going into my nice clean bilge! And where was it coming from? The
>> > > lower edge of the port side valve cover, going behind the metal
>> > > exhaust manifold gasket, against the black engine backround, and
>> > > down to the bilge. The reason? In the spirit of getting things
>> > > stock OMC where possible, I used some extra stock OMC nuts with the
>> > > oblong washers attached instead of the regular nuts someone had on
>> > > there previous. Thought it would seal better with those washers
>> > > too. They felt fine tightening down - didn't notice anything
>> > > weird. Yet what I felt was tight was actually leaving a nice gap
>> > > hiding under the lower side, enough to let 4 qts out. As best as I
>> > > can figure I guess someone must have stripped and re-tapped those
>> > > holes at some point because the threads are just slightly different
>> > > than original. I put the regular nuts back in and they went in
>> > > slightly deeper and sealed everything right up. Jeez! Almost a
>> > > disaster. I hate the fact that I was driving around awhile with
>> > > barely any oil. Nothing seized that day though. And although
>> > > I've never been through it, my understanding is that is pretty much
>> > > the main symptom of extremely low oil - engine seizure. So i'm
>> > > hoping because that didn't happen, I'm still ok. Not sure why it
>> > > had to get all the way down to practically zero before the light
>> > came
>> > > on.
>> > >
>> > > Anyway, on that day, something else was happening on occasion -
>> > > something i think was happening to someone else on the list in the
>> > > past few days. I would be accelerating, get to about 1/2 plane,
>> > > and all power would just drop to zero. Much like your foot slipping
>> > > off the gas pedal by accident in a car or something. Engine didn't
>> > > stall, just went back to idle - still in gear. So after getting
>> > > the oil leak solved and everything filled back up yesterday - i went
>> > > for a little test run. Now that occasional problem is happening
>> > > consistently. Got up on plane a couple times, but generally, it
>> > > would do it. Just all the sudden no gas or acceleration. I
>> > > really hope (and don't' think) it has anything to do with the oil
>> > > situation. I think it's some new independent prob - coincidentally
>> > > coming up now just to confuse me. It almost seemed electrical -
>> > > although the engine almost always kept running after dropping down.
>> > >
>> > > So I limped back to dock and am pretty much gonna call it a season.
>> > > In the coming weeks I;m going to get a new carb on there, replace my
>> > > throttle switch with one of those new ones being made, then give it
>> > > another test. Hopefully before it gets too cold.
>> > >
>> > > Jeff D
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > On Sep 21, 2009, at 11:39 AM, Justin DeSantis wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > Not sure how helpful it would be in this application, but
>> > there's a
>> > > > method for finding leaks on motorcycles I've used for years.
>> > Taught to
>> > > > me by a crusty old timer. Get the area of the oil leak good and
>> > clean.
>> > > > Use degreaser and remove all the oil. Not get yourself some
>> > athletes
>> > > > foot spray. It sprays as an aerosol and drys as a white powder.
>> > spray
>> > > > it on all the seams that may be leaking. When the oil leaks
>> > through
>> > > > again, it wets the powder and turns it black in the area of the
>> > leak.
>> > > > Makes it easy to spot.
>> > > >
>> > > > I tried everything once to locate the leak on a brand new Harley
>> > > > Sportster. Found it with the spray. It was leaking right through
>> > the
>> > > > engine case. Bad casting from the factory.
>> > > >
>> > > > On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 11:25 AM, BC Howk <bchowk@...>
>> > wrote:
>> > > >> A few places
>> > > >>
>> > > >> -Head gasket
>> > > >> -timing cover
>> > > >> -rear main seal
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Check with your auto parts store but I believe they have oil
>> > > >> additive that
>> > > >> is flourescent (glows real bright under a black light) they make
>> > > >> the stuff
>> > > >> for just this occurance (need to track the source of an oil leak.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Cheers,
>> > > >> B.C.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> On Sep 20, 2009, jd <jdood@...> wrote:
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Setting aside my carb fit issue, today's to do list has one thing
>> > > >> on it - figuring out how about 4 qts of oil ended up in my bilge
>> > > >> during my last outing! Everything seemed to be going well. Had
>> > > >> done a 20 min test earlier that day - no probs. Took it out for a
>> > > >> real run with the GF later that day. At one point the oil light
>> > > >> started coming on - turned off immediately and poked around
>> > back at
>> > > >> the engine. Oil all over the bilge area. But nothing obvious. A
>> > > >> small drip from one spot on the valve cover gasket - but really
>> > > >> small. It looked like just enough on the dipstick to get back
>> > with
>> > > >> so that's what we did later.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> So now a week later the engine and bilge are all cleaned up (2 hr
>> > > >> messy job). And Im heading off to buy 4-5 qts of oil and go for a
>> > > >> little test run and see what I can see. I don't get how that
>> > > >> much oil could come out of the engine and it not be an obvious
>> > > >> thing. So hopefully with the cowling off I will be able to spot
>> > > >> it. Jeez - another close call - almost fried my engine.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> So here's my question - just to see if I'm missing something. The
>> > > >> only places oil could be "leaking" out on the engine would be
>> > > >>
>> > > >> - valve covers
>> > > >> - oil pan
>> > > >> - dipstick tube and / or fill tube where it connects to the block
>> > > >> - seal around base of distributor
>> > > >>
>> > > >> right? am i forgetting somewhere?
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Note to self: A black engine and a black bilge make it very
>> > > >> difficult to spot oil leaks on a bright sunny day. Hoping to be
>> > > >> able to paint my engine a lighter color this winter.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Jeff D
>> > > >> _______________________________________________
>> > > >> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> > > >> OMC-Boats@...
>> > > >> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>> > > >>
>> > > >> _______________________________________________
>> > > >> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> > > >> OMC-Boats@...
>> > > >> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>> > > >>
>> > > >>
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > OMC-Boats mailing list
>> > > > OMC-Boats@...
>> > > > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>> > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > OMC-Boats mailing list
>> > > OMC-Boats@...
>> > > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>> >
>> > Microsoft brings you a new way to search the web. Try Bing(tm) now
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> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 02:43:11 -0500 (CDT)
> From: BC Howk <bchowk@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Radio questions...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Message-ID:
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:09:13 -0400
> From: Justin DeSantis <duc1098desmo@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Radio questions...
> To: bchowk@..., "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and
> 70's" <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID:
> <5282a5b50909250509h2d0c4d46rf7c321444673f936@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Thanks for the info. I knew it was a long shot. Figured it was worth
> asking though. I'll snap a picture of the mount today and shoot it out
> to you. Thats really all I care about, is being able to reuse the
> mount.
>
> On Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 3:43 AM, BC Howk <bchowk@...> wrote:
>> Justin,
>>
>> I was an Electronics Tech in the Coast Guard for 10 years, so I know
>> quite a
>> bit about marine VHF AND LORAN...
>>
>> As I explained earlier LORAN works in the 100 KHz range (HF) and the
>> reciever is simply that (no transmitter), marine band radios are in the
>> 157-162 MHz range (VHF) the TRANSCEIVER both recieves and transmits, so
>> it
>> is important that you have you antenna tuned properly (correct VSWR) or
>> run
>> the risk of burning up your transmitter....
>>
>> If you are talking about trying to use a fiberglass HF antenna with your
>> VHF
>> radio...Sorry Dude, it just won't work. The LORAN antenna is just built
>> to
>> resonate in a different band of frequencies. Maybe some HAM guy out there
>> has tried something like that with some sort of frequency coupling or
>> home
>> grown antenna rebuild, however I tend to think by the time you pulled
>> something like that off you'd be better off to simply BUY the correct
>> antenna in the first place. (unless you are really into antenna theory as
>> a
>> hobby)
>>
>> If you are talking about reusing the MOUNT and installing a new
>> inexpensive
>> VHF antenna, that is a different story, please send pictures of what you
>> have, or what you have already looked at and I'll try and point you in
>> the
>> right direction.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> B.C.
>>
>> On Sep 24, 2009, Justin DeSantis <duc1098desmo@...> wrote:
>>
>> Lets talk radios. Any of you guys know much about VHF radios? I've
>> discussed it with the guys on one of the boat forums, but they don't
>> tend to share the McGyver spirit we have on this list. So here's my
>> question... As we've discussed, when I got my boat, it had this
>> obsolete Loran system on it. I have no need for the Loran, but I would
>> like to get a VHF radio. So I understand that the Loran and the VHF
>> use different antenna's. But I like the location of the Loran antenna.
>> And it fold up nice. To replacate it with a VHF antenna would be
>> expensive. Is there any way to modify the Loran antenna to work with
>> the VHF? I'd really like to be able to.
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:07:44 -0600
> From: Lee Shuster <lks@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control
> conversion
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <F735F724-F678-4CA5-8A2F-4FF48C2DCC0C@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed";
> DelSp="yes"
>
>
> I'm slightly confused by your e-mail and photos.
>
> 1) If you are asking whether you can use your existing Evinrude
> throttle cable on the Johnson control? Then I believe the answer is
> yes, both J&E controls hook up to the same throttle cable.
>
> 2) Your boat helm wiring must be adapted or modified to incorporate
> the safety lockout feature AND the Johnson remote control switch must
> have 5-wires not 3. You didn't show the electrical connector in your
> pictures or specifically say whether the Johnson has the appropriate
> switch.
>
> 3) As you didn't save the old e-mails, you might not remember that if
> the Johnson control has the improper switch for the later Hydro-
> electric Outboards hooking it up to your electric stringer will
> potentially cause lower case damage engaging both shift coils (F/R) at
> the same time. You can order the new five-wire switch from Hansen
> Marine in Salt LAke City, listed on my site:
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/sources.html
>
> 4) There is a very high probability that the switch shown in your
> remote control is already defective or will soon become defective.
> This is a well-known "achilles heel," of this remote control design.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 24, 2009, at 8:17 PM, Scott Veazie wrote:
>
>> <controls 1.jpg>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:00:07 -0700
> From: Scott Veazie <scottveazie@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control
> conversion
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <BLU103-W240C69071AF7AD604F176CB4D90@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
>
> Hey Lee,
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the information, I'll clarify further on what I have.
>
>
>
> I bought an actual OMC Stern Drive labeled black box, one that OMC sold to
> 3rd party mfrs for the electric shift stern drive, so it's the correct
> setup. The guy I got it from had already tested it, so I don't have to
> worry about that, for now. I plan on keeping my Evinrude controls as a
> backup. This controller does have the five wire plug on it, so I'd either
> need to not use the extra two wires, or do the smart thing and adapt in
> the lockout feature. It's for sure not a Johnson Hydro-electric, it's a
> true OMC electric shift unit. I was mainly concerned with reusing my
> Evinrude cable, and adapting in the five-wire setup.
>
>
>
> ~Scott
>
>
>
> From: lks@...
> Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:07:44 -0600
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control
> conversion
>
>
>
>
> I'm slightly confused by your e-mail and photos.
>
>
> 1) If you are asking whether you can use your existing Evinrude throttle
> cable on the Johnson control? Then I believe the answer is yes, both J&E
> controls hook up to the same throttle cable.
>
>
> 2) Your boat helm wiring must be adapted or modified to incorporate the
> safety lockout feature AND the Johnson remote control switch must have
> 5-wires not 3. You didn't show the electrical connector in your pictures
> or specifically say whether the Johnson has the appropriate switch.
>
>
> 3) As you didn't save the old e-mails, you might not remember that if the
> Johnson control has the improper switch for the later Hydro-electric
> Outboards hooking it up to your electric stringer will potentially cause
> lower case damage engaging both shift coils (F/R) at the same time. You
> can order the new five-wire switch from Hansen Marine in Salt LAke City,
> listed on my site: http://hhscott.com/evinrude/sources.html
>
>
> 4) There is a very high probability that the switch shown in your remote
> control is already defective or will soon become defective. This is a
> well-known "achilles heel," of this remote control design.
>
>
> Lee
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 24, 2009, at 8:17 PM, Scott Veazie wrote:
> <controls 1.jpg>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 09:47:07 -0600
> From: Lee Shuster <Lee.Shuster@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control
> conversion
> To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID:
> <A862F82A5046A24EAAB14F5651B69AE3484384E923@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> a) Re-using the same throttle cable should not be a problem. Check the
> illustrated parts guides on line to make sure.
>
> b) You can view the color wiring diagram for the interlock wiring changes
> required between the remote control and the helm. Fairly easy to do.
> You'll probably need to replace the connector with something else.
>
> c) All the OMC OEM single lever controls and the Johnson single levers are
> identical except for their decals.
>
> ________________________________
> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
> [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of Scott Veazie
> Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 9:00 AM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control
> conversion
>
> Hey Lee,
>
> Thanks for all the information, I'll clarify further on what I have.
>
> I bought an actual OMC Stern Drive labeled black box, one that OMC sold to
> 3rd party mfrs for the electric shift stern drive, so it's the correct
> setup. The guy I got it from had already tested it, so I don't have to
> worry about that, for now. I plan on keeping my Evinrude controls as a
> backup. This controller does have the five wire plug on it, so I'd either
> need to not use the extra two wires, or do the smart thing and adapt in
> the lockout feature. It's for sure not a Johnson Hydro-electric, it's a
> true OMC electric shift unit. I was mainly concerned with reusing my
> Evinrude cable, and adapting in the five-wire setup.
>
> ~Scott
>
> ________________________________
> From: lks@...
> Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:07:44 -0600
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Evinrude pushbutton to Johnson/OMC control
> conversion
>
>
> I'm slightly confused by your e-mail and photos.
>
> 1) If you are asking whether you can use your existing Evinrude throttle
> cable on the Johnson control? Then I believe the answer is yes, both J&E
> controls hook up to the same throttle cable.
>
> 2) Your boat helm wiring must be adapted or modified to incorporate the
> safety lockout feature AND the Johnson remote control switch must have
> 5-wires not 3. You didn't show the electrical connector in your pictures
> or specifically say whether the Johnson has the appropriate switch.
>
> 3) As you didn't save the old e-mails, you might not remember that if the
> Johnson control has the improper switch for the later Hydro-electric
> Outboards hooking it up to your electric stringer will potentially cause
> lower case damage engaging both shift coils (F/R) at the same time. You
> can order the new five-wire switch from Hansen Marine in Salt LAke City,
> listed on my site: http://hhscott.com/evinrude/sources.html
>
> 4) There is a very high probability that the switch shown in your remote
> control is already defective or will soon become defective. This is a
> well-known "achilles heel," of this remote control design.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 24, 2009, at 8:17 PM, Scott Veazie wrote:
>
> <controls 1.jpg>
>
>
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> End of OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 29, Issue 36
> *****************************************
Received on Friday, 25 September 2009