Hi Bill,
That's great, so far so good. Here's some additional info that will
help you.
THE YELLOW CONNECTOR only supports TILT motor relays and SHIFT coil
Functions (MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE CLEAN AND REPLACE THE RELAYS)
(remember our long discussions about tilt motors?)
THE (MISSING) BLACK CONNECTOR (at one time) SUPPORTED THE FOLLOWING
EIGHT WIRES (Engine side described) (THE OLD WIRING COLORS ARE LISTED
LAST so you can TRANSCODE them on your HYBRID):
I like to breakdown the wiring by size and functionality:
LARGE WIRES, HIGH CURRENT SET:
1) BLACK 12 ga GROUND (WAS BLACK -- ON OPEN TERMINAL BLOCK)
2) RED 12 ga +12 to STARTER (WAS GREEN -- ON OPEN TERMINAL BLOCK)
3) ORANGE 12 GA TO ALTERNATOR B+ TERMINAL (WAS BROWN 8 GA -- ON OPEN
TERMINAL BLOCK)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SMALL WIRES -- IGNITION SWITCH GROUP:
4) PURPLE 16 ga to BALLAST RESISTOR (IGN) (WAS RED)
5) PURPLE 16 GA TO VOLTAGE REGULATOR (IGN) (WAS RED)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SMALL WIRES -- INSTRUMENT GROUP:
6) TAN 16 GA WATER TEMP SENDER (WAS TAN)
7) BLUE 16 GA OIL PRESS SENDER (WAS PURPLE)
8) GRAY 16 GA COIL (-) TACHOMETER (WAS GRAY/RED)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You also need to verify the BOAT SIDE is connected where it was
originally intended as you did extensive changes to your helm area and
new instruments (especially since you removed the OEM ammeter.)
You TEMP/OIL gauge problems are very likely related to the "rat's
nest" of wire "corn" nuts or incompatible senders. Take detailed
pictures of how they are currently connected, then verify and replace
them with insulated, marine rated connectors or terminal blocks. It's
easy to test the gauge functions, (once you have known good sensors),
just hook them up per the manufacturers instructions directly to the
instrument. You can use test leads, one for a ground to the sensor and
one to the sensor's connector.
You can find decent electrical supply stuff at Blue Seas, Waytek, or
West Marine. I can count at least half a dozen poorly crimped butt
connectors that I remove and replace. They might work awhile longer,
but they will eventually corrode and fail.
You spotted the LARGE WIRE problems, now you need to double-check the
remaining two groups of small wires: INSTRUMENTS, and IGNITION/VOLTAGE
REGULATOR. You may have charging, but you'll need to verify you also
have regulation. Too much charging will destroy your battery, as well.
Lee
On Oct 4, 2009, at 4:44 PM, BLDFW wrote:
> Thanks Lee,
>
> The good news is that I now have charging!! It's a satisfying
> feeling to finally see the voltage gauge now registering 13-14v
> depending on RPMs. That's a relief!
>
> I spent late yesterday researching and today rerunning the wires to
> their proper locations. It wasn't really all that difficult. If I
> had to guess, based upon looking at all the different wiring
> diagrams I browsed through to be sure I had the right one, the
> previous person must have been operating off of a later version
> diagram. They seemed to have it down right for that. I tend to
> think they never got to the point of running the engine long enough
> to determine it's foibles.
>
> Fortunately they did not mess with the yellow connector but the
> black one is no longer present and the wires from the harness are
> probably only about 3" long. Currently it has corn nuts making the
> connections. I'll have to investigate a replacement.
>
> The remaining challenge relates to my temp and oil pressure gauges.
> The temp gauge doesn't seem to be registering any temp. It's a new
> gauge sending unit and when I disconnect it at the unit, I can see
> the gauge flicker but it doesn't want to come up off the lowest
> almost non temp setting. The oil pressure gauge, on the other hand,
> pegs at 80lbs. if the engine stalls, it drops to zero in an
> instant. They both appear to be hooked up properly at the engine so
> I'll have to investigate my trusty wiring efforts behind the dash.
> Likely something is not right there.
>
> So the good news is, the problem is 3/4 solved!! I'm sure glad of
> that. Maybe I can still get her out before November!
>
> Thanks for the good words from the group!
>
> -Bill
> Dallas, TX
> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>
>
>
>
>
> --- On Sat, 10/3/09, Lee Shuster <lks@...> wrote:
>
> From: Lee Shuster <lks@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Wiring puzzle....
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...
> >
> Date: Saturday, October 3, 2009, 9:20 PM
>
> Bill,
>
> You are correct in that someone in the past tried to "graft" on
> older intermediate and sterndrive into your post-1969 (late model)
> Evinrude.
>
> You are going to need to use both the wiring diagrams I have posted
> to solve or re-construct your wiring maze.
>
> The new version went to the LARGE ROUND YELLOW AND BLACK harness
> connectors and did not use the OLD separate terminal strip with
> exposed positive and negative high current connections (a safety no-
> no).
>
> Did the hack leave any parts of the LARGE round connectors on the
> boat side? You might want to try and acquire a used post 1969 OMC
> engine harness, just to get these Yellow and Black round connectors.
> A picture of my 1971 retro fit shows them. I did have the boat
> harness from my donor boat so I rewired my entire boat and a year
> later installed a new dash.
> You can see the two ROUND connectors at the rear of the starter motor.
>
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/images/SBC/large/DCP_0191.jpg
>
> Old (pre 1969):
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/images/wiring/68_v6_ALL_WIRE.jpg
>
> New (1969 and newer):
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/images/wiring/73_OMC_V8_all_big.jpg
>
>
> On your alternator the small terminal is (F) for field and the large
> terminal is the 8 ga (B) terminal OUTPUT that was later fused. My
> Alternator is only externally grounded thru the case and mounting
> points.
>
> There are so many things wrong in your picture, that aren't your
> fault, I know. But if it were mine I would just rip it all out and
> start over. Here's what I spot wrong (I'm sure there could be more):
>
> a) Never use wire nuts. They are prone to coming loose due to shock
> and vibration, especially in marine applications. Learn how to use
> the proper crimping tools and SEALED MARINE connectors to make safe,
> reliable butt connections.
> West Marine has good tech articles on this. Notice how the OMC
> connectors are sealed, but all the "hacked" ones will allow moisture
> in from the wire side collar? Eventually that wire will be exposed
> to the elements and it will travel up inside the insulation where
> you can't even see it.
>
> b) All of the visible connectors and fasteners have visible
> corrosion/oxidation and most likely have measurably high resistance.
> Yank those crappy old tilt relays and get brand new ones and use
> stainless fasteners. While you're at this winter yank the starter
> assist relay (same as tilt relay) as well. I'll bet it's terminals
> are corroded as well.
>
> c) Go thru the entire engine area, one wiring subsystem at a time:
> a) Stater and assist relay, b) Alternator and regulator, c)
> instrument senders, d) Coil/ ballast resistor/Distributor, e)
> Battery supply and all grounds, and of course our favorite, the tilt
> motor and it's relays.
>
> d) Like I suggested above. Start searching for a 1970 to 1977 OMC
> engine harness. I wouldn't even be picky about it coming from a
> Buick V6 but that would be plug and play as far as fitment. But one
> could fairly easily modify a I-4 or V-8 harness to extend or shorten
> the lengths to reach various electrical components, but at least you
> have those big round (SEALING) connectors.
>
> Bill, I really admire you attitude. Hang in there, man. We've all
> had the challenges of bringing back someone else's mistakes. It will
> make next season on the more rewarding!
>
> Lee
>
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2009, at 6:54 PM, BLDFW wrote:
>
>> A continuation of my charging problems.......I've already figured
>> out where most of the problem is. And I'm beginning to see why
>> someone else's restoration efforts were abandoned years ago. But,
>> I'll not be deterred....just stymied by my own ignorance! ;-)
>>
>> Check out the attached pic. Anyone care to hazzard a guess as to
>> what is wrong with this picture?? It pays to have a good wiring
>> diagram (and a good mind......well....maybe). The problem appears
>> to have been staring me in the face all along....but I wasn't quite
>> "ready" to experience it......yet. Jeesh!
>>
>> First off.....the boat was repowered at some point with an earlier
>> vintage engine. The wiring harness that came with the engine does
>> not match the boat's main harness leading to the front. Now it
>> would have been nice if they had replaced the engine harness with
>> the original one. It might have gone right back together without a
>> sweat but nooooo. Oh well, no accounting for amateurs
>> (uh....myself included).
>>
>> I can see several jury rigged spots already. The green 8g wire in
>> the pic is supposed to feed the tilt solenoids 5 inches away but
>> nope, it ends right there. Rather they ran the red wire direct
>> from the starter where, coincidentally by design, the other end of
>> the green wire originates too. Ain't ignorance bliss.
>>
>> The brown 8g wire also goes nowhere....well guess what!!....that is
>> the feed directly from the alternator so no wonder why it is not
>> charging the battery! It had no where to go too! JEESH! I'll
>> have to match it now with the correct wire in the boat harness to
>> get it to the dash where it's supposed to go.
>>
>> And Finally, the black 8g wire also goes nowhere. That's a ground
>> wire. The two black wires attached via the screw to the right
>> which holds the block down are supposed to be attached to the black
>> ground wire.
>>
>> Once I get all that figured out and double check the dash stuff,
>> I'll go back and check the alternator again. Ain't it just
>> grand....or is that just "another grand"?
>>
>> More later.
>>
>> -Bill
>> Dallas, TX
>> 1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
>> http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <Wiring 003.jpg>_______________________________________________
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>> OMC-Boats@...
>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
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Received on Sunday, 4 October 2009
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