Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!

Yup, I saw that on the pics in the link you sent and I stand corrected.  The only thing I'll add is that safety wasn't a significant factor in designs back then and any saftey features that did exist were largely after-thought add-ons.  I'm reminded of that every time I try to buckle the seatbelts in my '66 7-litre!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin DeSantis" <duc1098desmo@...>
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...mate.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 3:54:14 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!

I totally understand and agree with what you're saying, the logic is
very sound. But my point was, and is, that tie down arrangement was
designed and recommended by Johnson. I have my Johnson manual right
here and the Surfer in the pictures is tied down exactly the same way.
That said, I use a gunwale strap on mine. ;-)

On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 11:44 AM, ANDY PERAKES
<aperakes@...> wrote:
> The purpose of the rear tie down is two-fold, keep the boat from bouncing
> off the trailer and keep it from sliding backwards should the bow line
> break.  Tying to deck cleats has two problems.  First, deck cleats are
> generally much weaker than transom or bow mounts.  They are unusually strong
> on these old OMC's, but typically they are designed for the relatively light
> duty loads of mooring.  Many deck cleats have been ripped out by unwary
> sailors who tried to use them to anchor tow lines, occasionally striking a
> person on the opposite end of the rope with grave results.  The second
> reason is positioning.  If you look at John's pictures, you can see the line
> actually runs forward as it rises.  Should the bow line break, the boat will
> slide back 1 - 2' before the rear lines tighten to hold the boat.  Once the
> boat starts moving, you're dealing with much higher dynamic loads which
> increase the chances the line will break.  Its better than nothing, but its
> far from optimal.
>
>
>
> On another note, BoatUS just ran another article on storage with E10.
> Nothing new (use stabilizer, top off tank), but another interesting read on
> the topic.  If the link works (may be members only), here it is:
>  http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/boatus/200911/#/66.  Lee, related to this
> topic, I've now talked to two additional triboligists who also agreed that
> no additive would restore any fuel or lubricant to "factory fresh"
> condition.  All agreed it does help to refresh the additives so at least we
> know we're not wasting money.
>
>
>
> Andy
>
> '67 Reveler
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Justin DeSantis" <duc1098desmo@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 12:50:45 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
>
> If I'm not mistaken, that tie down arrangement in his pictures is the
> factory tie down and how Johnson recommends it's tied down.
>
> On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 12:17 PM, ANDY PERAKES
> <aperakes@...> wrote:
>> That is different.  Anxious to hear how it works.
>>
>>
>>
>> John:  I don't know if that's how you usually do your rear tie-downs, but
>> you should really be attaching to the transom.  The upper deck cleat
>> you're
>> attached to in the photos will allow the boat quite a bit of rearward
>> travel
>> before cinching up and by then it may be too late.
>>
>>
>>
>> Andy
>>
>> '67 Reveler
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Scott Veazie" <scottveazie@...>
>> To: omc-boats@...
>> Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 11:20:03 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
>>
>> Hey John,
>>
>> I noticed in one of your pics that you had doel-fin type fins on the BACK
>> of
>> your drive?  I've never seen them mounted that way, how well does that
>> work?  Anyone else see what I'm seeing?
>>
>> ~Scott
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: northphx@...
>> To: omc-boats@...
>> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 07:34:57 -0700
>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
>>
>> Lee (and Forum),
>>
>> A quick thank you for the support and recommendations that you've made in
>> support of my newbie questions.  My 67/68 Johnson Surfer is now running
>> very
>> very well on area lakes.  I've completed:
>>
>> Documentation: all rig OMC docs acquired on eBay
>>
>> Owner's manual
>> Orig OMC Service Manual for boat (one used by authorized dealer repair
>> technicians)
>> Boat Parts
>> Sterndrive parts
>>
>> Boat
>>
>> New fuel lines (Used the Stainless steel braided type due to close runs to
>> the engine)
>> power-washed both gas tanks, added new hose (flexible stuff from Napa) and
>> custom cut new gas tank gaskets from cork/rubber gasket material
>> (autozone)
>> put in a Pertronix Electic Ignition system...don't want to mess with
>> "Points"...highly recommend this upgrade at ~$85 and 10 mins of work
>> Rebuilt Carb with CK812 carburetor kit from www.carburetor.ca
>>  (Rusty/owner
>> is VERY helpful and knowledgeable...knew which rebuilt kit to recommend
>> immediately upon hearing engine and OMC/Marine use)
>> General electrical repair and clean-up
>>
>> Trailer
>>
>> Key learning:  the rubber stopper on for the bow was incorrectly placed on
>> top of trailer "stop" and this eliminated critical inches that -once
>> corrected/place below metal holder- pulled the keel off the rollers
>> New wheels
>> Repaired Jack that lifts bow on trailer...seems like a unique design I am
>> guessing to eliminate requirement for boat ramps (the thing with "teeth"
>> inside...bearing??...anyway...got lucky and found similar online and
>> matched
>> the "look" even though from different manufacturer. It works! )
>> Added trailer Jack to improve safety
>>
>> Pictures:   I've posted some pics here:
>> http://cid-475cacc7c0e86c18.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Boat
>>
>> btw:  since the manifolds are key to life expectancy of this model boat,
>> there is a cleaning/lining process used by local hot rod and classic car
>> shops that I am considering.  The process involves sand blasting, acid
>> washing, and some type of "hot blue/Jet blue" process by which a synthetic
>> coating is put onto the parts that eliminates rust and reduces build up.
>>  As
>> I explore further, I'll share my findings with the forum.
>>
>> Again, thanks for the support!
>>
>> Best,
>> John
>> ________________________________
>> Windows 7: Simplify your PC. Learn more.
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Received on Tuesday, 27 October 2009