Re: [omc-boats] Re: boat stuck

Hi Ryan,

Nope. those are the relays (also called solenoids) that operate the
sterndrive power tilt motor. One is used for UP (it has the Blue control
wire for Sky) and the other has the DOWN function (Green control for Grass
is down) at least that's how I remember them.

Keep looking --- you'll find the two, somewhat isolated shifter wires
(again blue and green) back there as well (on the right side of your photo)
yout need to look more closely.

Very nice boat, BTW.

Lee

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan" <kmoore12@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: boat stuck

> Are these the coils? I guess the wires on mine arn't original?
> http://home.ec.rr.com/mar00isa/index.html/engine%20left%20back.jpg
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ethan Brodsky" <brodskye@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 1:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: boat stuck
>
>
>> On Thu, 8 Dec 2005, mark wrote:
>>> if the electorshift wires are disconnected-does it fall out of
>>> gear-nevermind i remember reading it defaults to forward gear under
>>> fail so you can still get 'home'
>>> -if i allpy juice to those wires will it kick it out of gear? hotwire
>>> it. is the unit the ground? or is there dedicated ground wire?
>>> thanks for teh excellent advice and troubleshooting.
>>
>> I believe it will fail into neutral, not forward. The coils require
>> continuous 12V power to stay in gear. You can check if the coils are
>> good
>> by putting an ohmmeter between the green wire and ground and the blue
>> wire
>> and ground. One is forward and the other is reverse, but I don't
>> remember
>> for sure which is which. I seem to recall that green is forward ("green
>> means go" and blue is reverse "blue means backup"), but no guarantees
>> there.
>>
>> The coils are grounded through the outdrive case - make sure you measure
>> off a clean point like a screw head and not a painted or corroded
>> aluminum
>> surface.
>>
>> I believe the resistance should be in the 2-5 ohm range, but I can
>> double-check tonight in the manuals. "2.3-2.6 ohm" rings a bell for some
>> reason, but I don't remember for sure.
>>
>> If the coils are bad I'm guessing you'll see an open circuit. If the
>> wire
>> is bad you may see either an open circuit or a short. Also check
>> resistance between the two - it should read twice that of the individual
>> ones. If it does not they may be shorted together.
>>
>> The shift wires can be disconnected in the engine bay - there's some
>> spade-like clips in there that go between the boat wiring harness and the
>> outdrive wiring harness. The connections are probably be covered by
>> small
>> boots made of gummy rubber. Look for some blue and green wires go to a
>> cable that passes through the top port side of the intermediate housing.
>>
>> The forward/reverse coil power is wired directly to the push-buttons in
>> the
>> remote control (throttle handle unit) - there are no relays in the
>> circuit.
>> While you have the engine-bay connection apart, check that you're getting
>> power there. Turn the key to run, pull the throttle back to idle, push
>> the
>> forward button, and see if one of the wires is hot. Then try reverse and
>> the other.
>>
>> One more important thing to check is ground continuity. Check resistance
>> between the outdrive and engine block or negative battery terminal. It
>> should be very low (0.1 ohms or so). There's a stainless steel wire that
>> goes from the outdrive to the intermediate housing. I can't remember
>> where
>> it connects on the outdrive, but if everything else checks out I'd take
>> each end off, scrape underneath them a bit, then reinstall with
>> conductive
>> grease.
>>
>> The manuals I have caution about applying power to the shift coils out of
>> the water. They say the coils are cooled by water and will overheat if
>> you
>> leave them energized for long periods while dry. Just based on the
>> amount
>> of metal between them and the water, I've been assuming it's ok to keep
>> them energized for several minutes.
>>
>> One more caution is that it is supposedly very easy to damage the shift
>> springs when shifting into gear at higher RPM. A mechanic told me I
>> should
>> keep the idle as low as possible - 600-700 rpm is ideal - since shifting
>> at
>> higher RPM (even 900-1100, a typical "fast idle") can break the springs.
>>
>> Ethan
>> -
>> ---
>> Ethan Brodsky
>> UW FutureCar Team Paradigm: Two-Year FutureCar Challenge Winner
>> UW-Madison Clean Snowmobile Team: Winner of the 2004 SAE CSC
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Received on Friday, 9 December 2005