Thanx for the idea about checking the unit. Probably would not have done that. it will be easy to do while I have the head off, replacing the head gasket. Explains why im hooking up an audio warning, doesnt it.
lib1@... wrote: Typically, these "idiot" lights are wired in series as follows from battery negitive to battery positive:
( - ) Engine ground --> Temp Sensor Resistor/Switch (Switch closes when "hot") --> Signal Wire --> Bulb "A" --> Filament --> Bulb "B" --> Fuse --> +12 V Supply (typically at IGN switch) (+)
Most likely you could hook up your buzzer in parallel to the bulb filament and it will work. You could also "isolate" the buzzer load by using a relay. This way the Temp sensor/switch only has the small relay coil load to "carry" or "see," in addition to the bulb. Using this relay method (essentially a remote controlled switch) you could use a car horn as your annuciator. That will get your attention!
Just an idea, have you ever tested the cyl head temp sensor using pan of hot water and a thermometer? Just to make sure it works?
Hope this makes sense....
Lee Shuster
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Desmond
To: omc-boats@...
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 5:27 PM
Subject: [omc-boats] rigging up a warning horn
I have a temp light but no buzzer. I was wondering if it would be possible to hook up a car door buzzer/alarm to the temp light. I was just kinda worried if the temp sending unit could handle both the light and the buzzer. I dont know how that sending unit works. Im talking about the outboard evinrude sending unit that is up top, set into the head.
daemian
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Received on Friday, 21 July 2006
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