On Tue, 29 Aug 2006, David wrote:
> Yes, you need to pull the race as well - the last bearing I ordered was
> from an OMC dealer - they are still available - but maybe a timken would
> be cheaper - I paid $65 for it - Dave
Does your shaft look like this?
http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~brodskye/boat/parts/int_shaft1.jpg
http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~brodskye/boat/parts/int_shaft2.jpg
There are two bearings on the intermediate shaft, the inboard one is a ball
bearing and the outboard one is a roller bearing. I had to replace the
ball bearing, as the cages had disintegrated. It's held in place with a
snap ring and is fairly easy to remove - it will slide off as a unit
(towards the engine end). The roller bearing comes apart (don't dump the
rollers all over your car trunk like I did) and the roller bearing inner
race is pressed onto the shaft. I believe I used a bearing press to
remove it.
When my ball gear wore out, I bought a new gear on a new shaft. I replaced
the ball bearing and moved the roller bearing over to the new shaft. You
might also want to replace the oil seals (they only cost another $10 or
so), although I didn't have the nerve to do it myself.
I believe there's another version of the intermediate that uses a tapered
thrust bearing instead of the roller bearing. I don't know anything about
disassembling it.
Ethan
Here's the spec on the roller bearing:
---- Fafnir 206K C3 ID 1.181" - 30 mm OD 2.436" - 62 mm W 0.624" - 16 mm http://www.timken.com/industries/torrington/catalog/pdf/fafnir/radial.pdf 206K ID 1.1811 OD 2.4409 +- 0.0005 W 0.6299 += 0.005 ~$10-15 at McMaster for ABEC1 ----- To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...Received on Tuesday, 29 August 2006
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