Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

The garbage can works provided you can find one big enough for the drive to fit, yet still be able to work the can under the drive. I usually have to snake it onto the drive through a combination of deforming the plastic can and lowering the drive to get it set right, then I fill it up and go to it. There's a little bit of splashing, but I've not had to be concerned about soaking my wife as Tom apparently has. ;) Its probably worth noting I never run in drive. I don't have the clearance in the can for the prop so I control all engine speed at the carb by removing the throttle cable from its mount and controling the linkage directly. The other method I've used is to stick a garden hose in the lower inlet and tape over the screened pick-up. While quicker and easier, I've found it has several drawbacks: risk of forgetting to remove the tape, water flow regulated by hose instead of engine (non-representative water pressures), and the risk of blowing pressurized water past seals into places it shouldn't go (i.e. gearbox lube cavity). The garbage can is definitely a less-risky method! Btw, I have to syphon the water back out of the can to get it out from under the drive -- easy to do since the garden hose is already there from filling it up.

I check water flow through multiple methods. The most obvious is the exit port at the top rear of the drive. Its not a stream, more of a steady "spit," but its the easiest, quickest, and surest to check. As I recall, there is also a tell tale stream on the side of the unit, but I forget if it is on the left or the right. Its a small steady stream about 1/8" in diameter, not like the stream from wave runners that shoots 5-6' in the air. The other method I use is to feel the hoses themselves. Its a little tricky and not the most reliable, but by squeezing the hose you can generally feel or hear the water swishing through. I'd be cautious relying on that method alone as by the time you sense "hot & dry," you've almost certainly got damage.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Todd Dixon
  To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
  Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 8:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

  Yes Andy the garbage can idea really works. I have a 67 reveler 155 at the house right now, with the stern drive in a garbage can full of water. Make sure the wife is not around, especially near the transom when you crank it up though.

  Todd

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  From: jd <jdood@...>
  To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's <omc-boats@...>
  Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:43:32 AM
  Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

  On Jun 15, 2009, at 2:06 PM, Andy Perakes wrote:

> The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to inspect the engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel. After you've done that, run the blower for several minutes. I usually leave the engine hatch open until it is idling nicely as an added precaution. My Reveler has a lower engine access hatch that I usually remove too. You can do this in the water, but I usually make the first start on the trailer with the stern drive in a garbage can filled with water.

  i've thought about the garbage can idea - does it actually work? i have no hose possibilities at my shop.
>
>
> As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated vehicle that has been sitting a long time is to get the fuel flowing. First I do a steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with the choke pulled up and the drive in neutral. I still have the glass bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking, I check to be sure it has filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb has started filling too. After that and without cranking the engine, I remove the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do this at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will release the entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment near the carb). Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see the fuel spraying from the 2 priming jets. Once I see the fuel spraying in, I probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable back in place and reinstall the flame arrestor. Then I start cranking again and will usually get a turnover/start within another 5-10 seconds of cranking.

> After it starts, I back off on the choke until I have a slightly fast idle (about 800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run until mildly warm (constantly checking the water flow).

  how do you check the water flow? lee mentioned starboard pivot point. but i've heard there is not tattle tell on these. mine leak like crazy (on the list to fix, have attempted twice and leaks return) so it's hard to discern if there's supposed to be a tattle tell somewhere in the sprinklering.

> From there I'm ready to hit the launch ramp. Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you have fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually start (assuming nothing else is wrong). Its probably worth adding that I still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which consists of dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just before fuel stavation. This causes a lot of smoke the first start and can lead to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of success doing it.

>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "jd" <jdood@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
>
>
>> .......no i don' have one, but would like one. I am mere days from launching and turning my key for the first time to see what happens. but totally nervous about it. so being that these are old boats, it would be nice to know what other people do before turning the key for the first time at the beginning of the season. a sort of check list in order of events. tap the fuel filter glass first? prime the carb with fuel first? change the plugs? I've had my boat out so few times, don't have much of a clue on the official OMC starting procedure, and often have started it after a mechanic or someone has already been messing with it a few days earlier. Had heard somewhere about pumping the shift lever forward a few times to prime the engine. But that could be totally wrong. So anyone want to take a stab at making a little checklist? I'll get it started with an easy one....
>>
>> 1) take boat to ramp
>>
>>
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Received on Tuesday, 16 June 2009