I bought a 30gal storage bin from Walmart for about $8.99 that allows plenty of room for the outdrive. The water will come up to the bottom of the fin depending on how low you have the outdrive into the bin. I would suggest two bins because the top tends to want to splay out under the weight of the water or build a minor frame around the top that will hold the bin in shape. It works really well. You can run the outdrive in idle but better have the hose running full blast to keep it full. It works pretty well.
-Bill
Dallas, Tx
1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer%a0
--- On Tue, 6/16/09, Andy Perakes <aperakes@...> wrote:
From: Andy Perakes <aperakes@...>
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...mate.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 16, 2009, 9:21 AM
To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the
1960's and 70's <omc-boats@...ltimate.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:43:32
AM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats]
1ST RUN CHECKLIST
On Jun 15, 2009, at 2:06 PM, Andy Perakes
wrote:
> The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is
to inspect the engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel. After
you've done that, run the blower for several minutes. I usually leave
the engine hatch open until it is idling nicely as an added precaution.
My Reveler has a lower engine access hatch that I usually remove too.
You can do this in the water, but I usually make the first start on the
trailer with the stern drive in a garbage can filled with water.
i've
thought about the garbage can idea - does it actually work? i
have no hose possibilities at my shop.
>
>
> As you
probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated vehicle that has
been sitting a long time is to get the fuel flowing. First I do a steady
crank of about 5-6 seconds with the choke pulled up and the drive in
neutral. I still have the glass bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking,
I check to be sure it has filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb
has started filling too. After that and without cranking the engine, I
remove the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do this
at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will release the
entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment near the carb).
Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see the fuel
spraying from the 2 priming jets. Once I see the fuel spraying in, I
probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable back in place and
reinstall the flame arrestor. Then I start cranking again and will
usually get a turnover/start within another 5-10 seconds of
cranking.
> After it starts, I back off on the choke until I
have a slightly fast idle (about 800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run
until mildly warm (constantly checking the water flow).
how do you
check the water flow? lee mentioned starboard pivot point.
but i've heard there is not tattle tell on these. mine leak like crazy
(on the list to fix, have attempted twice and leaks return) so it's hard to
discern if there's supposed to be a tattle tell somewhere in the
sprinklering.
> From there I'm ready to hit the launch
ramp. Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you
have fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually
start (assuming nothing else is wrong). Its probably worth adding that I
still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which consists of
dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just
before fuel stavation. This causes a lot of smoke the first start and
can lead to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of
success doing it.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "jd" <jdood@...>
> To:
"Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...ts.ultimate.com>
>
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN
CHECKLIST
>
>
>> .......no i don' have one, but
would like one. I am mere days from launching and
turning my key for the first time to see what happens. but totally
nervous about it. so being that these are old boats, it
would be nice to know what other people do before turning the key for
the first time at the beginning of the season. a sort of
check list in order of events. tap the fuel filter glass
first? prime the carb with fuel first? change the plugs?
I've had my boat out so few times, don't have much of a clue on the
official OMC starting procedure, and often have started it after a
mechanic or someone has already been messing with it a few days
earlier. Had heard somewhere about pumping the shift lever
forward a few times to prime the engine. But that could be totally
wrong. So anyone want to take a stab at making a
little checklist? I'll get it started with an easy
one....
>>
>> 1) take boat to ramp
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
OMC-Boats mailing list
>> OMC-Boats@...
>>
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>
>
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