Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

From: BLDFW <bldfw@...>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 08:23:36 -0700 (PDT)

I bought a 30gal storage bin from Walmart for about $8.99 that allows plenty of room for the outdrive.  The water will come up to the bottom of the fin depending on how low you have the outdrive into the bin.  I would suggest two bins because the top tends to want to splay out under the weight of the water or build a minor frame around the top that will hold the bin in shape.  It works really well.  You can run the outdrive in idle but better have the hose running full blast to keep it full.  It works pretty well.

-Bill
Dallas, Tx
1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer%a0

--- On Tue, 6/16/09, Andy Perakes <aperakes@...> wrote:

From: Andy Perakes <aperakes@...>
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...mate.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 16, 2009, 9:21 AM

To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's <omc-boats@...ltimate.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:43:32 AM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

On Jun 15, 2009, at 2:06 PM, Andy Perakes wrote:

> The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to inspect the engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel.  After you've done that, run the blower for several minutes.  I usually leave the engine hatch open until it is idling nicely as an added precaution.  My Reveler has a lower engine access hatch that I usually remove too.  You can do this in the water, but I usually make the first start on the trailer with the stern drive in a garbage can filled with water.

i've thought about the garbage can idea - does it actually work?    i have no hose possibilities at my shop.
>
>
> As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated vehicle that has been sitting a long time is to get the fuel flowing.  First I do a steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with the choke pulled up and the drive in neutral.  I still have the glass bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking, I check to be sure it has filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb has started filling too.  After that and without cranking the engine, I remove the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do this at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will release the entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment near the carb). Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see the fuel spraying from the 2 priming jets.  Once I see the fuel spraying in, I probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable back in place and reinstall the flame arrestor.  Then I start cranking again and will usually get a turnover/start within another 5-10 seconds of cranking.

> After it starts, I back off on the choke until I have a slightly fast idle (about 800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run until mildly warm (constantly checking the water flow).

how do you check the water flow?  lee mentioned starboard pivot point.    but i've heard there is not tattle tell on these.  mine leak like crazy (on the list to fix, have attempted twice and leaks return) so it's hard to discern if there's supposed to be a tattle tell somewhere in the sprinklering.

>  From there I'm ready to hit the launch ramp. Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you have fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually start (assuming nothing else is wrong).  Its probably worth adding that I still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which consists of dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just before fuel stavation.  This causes a lot of smoke the first start and can lead to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of success doing it.

>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "jd" <jdood@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...ts.ultimate.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
>
>
>> .......no i don' have one,  but would like one.      I am mere days  from launching and turning my key for the first time to see what  happens. but totally nervous about it.    so being that these are  old boats, it would be nice to know what other people do before  turning the key for the first time at the beginning of the season.      a sort of check list in order of events.  tap the fuel filter glass  first?  prime the carb with fuel first?  change the plugs?  I've had  my boat out so few times, don't have much of a clue on the official  OMC starting procedure,  and often have started it after a mechanic  or someone has already been messing with it a few days earlier.      Had heard somewhere about pumping the shift lever forward a few times  to prime the engine.  But that could be totally wrong.      So anyone  want to take a stab at making a little checklist?  I'll get it started  with an easy one....
>>
>> 1) take boat to ramp
>>
>>
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Received on Tuesday, 16 June 2009

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