Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 47

Oh, that! I am good shape then, good flow while running on the hose or in the water. Thanks. Ron Mathewson ________________________________ From: "omc-boats-request@..." <omc-boats-request@...> To: omc-boats@... Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:15:40 AM Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 47 Note: Forwarded message is attached. Send OMC-Boats mailing list submissions to omc-boats@... To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to omc-boats-request@... You can reach the person managing the list at omc-boats-owner@... When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of OMC-Boats digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Intermediate shaft (ball gear driveshaft) seal (Anthony) 2. Re: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 43 (Lee Shuster) -----Inline Message Follows----- Scott, The dealer parts book shows that #310600 changed to #321463 (1980 book) and then to #330137. My parts program shows some still in stock. If you are interested contact me at <linda@...> and I will check to be sure they are still in the bin. Will sell at 1/2 of the last suggested list price or less. We closed our business but still have some parts in stock for these older engines. Ed Anthony ----- Original Message ----- >From: Scott > Veazie >To: omc-boats@...e.com >Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 11:52 >PM >Subject: [OMC-Boats] Intermediate shaft > (ball gear driveshaft) seal > >Hey Guys, > >I'm in the middle of doing a drive shaft > replacement on a 1968 Sportsman, I've managed to finally get the right > bearings, and now I'm looking at oil seals. The almightly book of part > numbers calls out 310600 (#3 in the intermediate housing group) but I can't > for the life of me find this ANYWHERE new. I have the later style on > (313992) but it won't fit right. I still have the old seals although > they're pretty beat up, any advice? Stick them back in and not worry? Put a > fat o-ring with the seals? Also, I want to pack these bearings > right? Or do I rely on oiling system of the housing? > > >~Scott > >________________________________ > Windows Live™ SkyDrive™: Get 25 GB of free online storage. Get it on your BlackBerry or iPhone. ________________________________ > _______________________________________________ >OMC-Boats mailing > list >OMC-Boats@...com >http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats > -----Inline Message Follows----- One of the cool (pun intended) engineering ideas that OMC engineers implemented was the solution to routing sea water up from the impeller pump through a power leg that could be both tilted and steered WITHOUT punching separate holes for water lines in the transom. (Remember everything passes thru the giant hole on on OMC Stringer where the intermediate housing meets the upper sterndrive, there is no transom mounted gimbal as on U-Joint driven drives.) The way OMC engineers accomplished this engineering feat was pretty clever: The made the large tilt bearings (trunnions) have concentric water passages. That's why you see the "caps;" some of which have the optional hose attachment fitting for test running in the shop on a garden hose. The starboard tilt bearing is the "UP" feed going from the output of the impeller to the engine and the PORT side is the return side. Pretty cool. But they took it further. The "Tattle-Tale" is a little hole that allows a small but steady stream of sea water to continually relieve itself at approximately a 45 degree angle to the aft off the transom port side when the impeller is pumping properly (when the engine is running). It's just another little detail that most OMC owners never appreciate or bother to monitor. It can alert you to potential cooling system issues long before an idiot light on the helm or even a calibrated temp gauge. Lee On Jun 16, 2009, at 6:43 AM, Ron Mathewson wrote: Lee/B.C., > I was looking at both of your pre-launch checklists and find them both very helpful and comprehensive. I have one question though, what is the "sterndrive Tattle-tell" that is mentioned? I have not heard or seen reference to it. > > Ron Mathewson > > > > > ________________________________ From: "omc-boats-request@...ltimate.com" <omc-boats-request@...> >To: omc-boats@...ultimate.com >Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 9:58:57 PM >Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 26, Issue 43 > >Note: Forwarded message is attached. > >Send OMC-Boats mailing list submissions to > omc-boats@...ate.com > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > omc-boats-request@...ts.ultimate.com > >You can reach the person managing the list at > omc-boats-owner@... > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of OMC-Boats digest..." >Today's Topics: > > 1. Sticking Carb Float (Ted Robinson) > 2. Re: Sticking Carb Float (bchowk@...) > 3. Re: 1ST RUN CHECKLIST (Ethan Brodsky) > 4. Re: Sticking Carb Float (Lee Shuster (lib1)) > 5. [OMC-Boats] > http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/CAT_PDF/InboardFuelSystem.PDF > (Lee Shuster (lib1)) > 6. Re: 1ST RUN CHECKLIST (Andy Perakes) > > >-----Inline Message Follows----- > > >1970 Seasport wth HUFR19E 155 V-6 (kaiser) >During the pressure check part of conducting some preventive maint by changing the two inline fuel filters, one at the transom and one above the fuel tank at the inlet side of the electric fuel pump added by the prior owner, I noticed fuel pouring out of the top of the carb. >Rather than trying to figure out why the float was sticking,I decided to just rebuild the carb. >I purchased a kit locally @... auto parts and took the carb apart. It was surprisingly clean and the metal float appeared to be as it should, no cracks or indications of leakage. >I did not boil the carb, just blew the passages out with compressed air put in the new parts, set level/drop & put her back together. >Added a fuel press gauge @... the inlet to carb so I felt like I had a better picture for future troubleshooting. >When tested before & after the final mounting of the carb the press was right @... 6psi and no leaky. >Today she ran great for the first 5 tenth of an hour, then the RPM seemed to have a mind of its own. >Popped the bonnet and there was fuel pouring out of the top of the carb again. Shut her down and very nicely asked my wife to paddle us back to the dock. Her response is not important here. >I seem to have an intermittent sticking float. I do not see any reason to re kit the carb, but some of you may have an idea or know of a quirk in this carb system. >New carbs are spendy. Can I use a local auto parts for the carb, or am stuck with marine only? >Thanks in advance >Ted Robinson >Terrebonne,Oregon > > >-----Inline Message Follows----- > >You really need to stick to the marine carb for safety sake and depending on where you are you may run afoul of the law with an auto carb. > >B.C. >Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > >-----Original Message----- >From: "Ted Robinson" <tederobinson@...> > >Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 16:34:19 >To: <omc-boats@...> >Subject: [OMC-Boats] Sticking Carb Float > > >_______________________________________________ >OMC-Boats mailing list >OMC-Boats@... >http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats > > > > >-----Inline Message Follows----- > >On Mon, 15 Jun 2009, Lee Shuster wrote: >> When I arrive at the lake, and I'm in the launch line here's my >> procedure: >>... > >That does sound very thorough and effective at preventing problems (though >I seriously question the wisdom of turning the drive over *at all* without >having water going to the pump), but I've been using a much simpler >procedure for ~5 years with pretty good success. I have the 155 hp V-6 and >it has an internal automatic choke built into the carb (though I am pretty >sure it isn't working, as the line is disconnected). Here is my procedure: > - make sure drain plug is in > - launch boat with outdrive partially raised, tie to pier > - turn on blower for a minute or two > - usually peek under the engine compartment lid for water or fuel > - lower outdrive entirely > - turn key to run, give (electric) fuel pump a few seconds to build up > pressure (can tell because the sound changes) > - pull throttle all the way back to idle, keep drive in neutral > - set throttle a tiny bit off idle (maybe 1/2" or so) > - crank until it fires, usually within 3-4 s > - if it won't start, pump throttle once or twice while cranking > (usually only necessary with air temperatures close to freezing) > - if it starts and stalls immediately, give it a bit more throttle and > try again > - once it does start, let it high idle (~1000-1500 rpm) for 30 s > to a minute while everyone gets on > - pull fully back to idle (600-700 rpm) > - push "reverse" button and back away from the pier > - "taxi" out to "no wake" buoy 200 ft from shore at or just off idle - > (2-3 minutes) > - smoothly but quickly advance throttle to full, then pull back to ~3/4 > throttle a few seconds later, once the boat is on plane > >I know it's bad to heavily load a cold engine, but I'm not convinced that >warming up at idle is much better. For a modern engine, the best thing you >can do is to warm them up rapidly at moderate power - I'm guessing that's >less true for these 40 year old designs, but for cold-starts at >above-freezing temperatures, there should be little harm in immediate >application of moderate power. Even with older engines, warmup at idle can >actually be detrimental, as they tend to run very rich when cold, washing >away the oil film on the cylinder walls. I doubt there's any harm for >the lengths of time and above-freezing temperatures we're talking about >here, but it's something to consider. > >Ethan > > >-- > Ethan Brodsky > > > >-----Inline Message Follows----- > > > > >You can find several MARINE sources for this carb under the following reference numbers: > > >Rochester Products Model Number: 2GC >Rochester Products # 7026180 >OMC Carb # 772831 >OMC Usage: 155 hp from 1967 - 1972 > > >I believe Sierra still have them as well as others including Mallory Marine. > > >Look at it this way -- price of the carb, will be less than a fire! > > >Lee Shuster > >On Jun 15, 2009, at 5:34 PM, Ted Robinson wrote: > >1970 Seasport wth HUFR19E 155 V-6 (kaiser) >>During the pressure check part of conducting some preventive maint by changing the two inline fuel filters, one at the transom and one above the fuel tank at the inlet side of the electric fuel pump added by the prior owner, I noticed fuel pouring out of the top of the carb. >>Rather than trying to figure out why the float was sticking,I decided to just rebuild the carb. >>I purchased a kit locally @... auto parts and took the carb apart. It was surprisingly clean and the metal float appeared to be as it should, no cracks or indications of leakage. >>I did not boil the carb, just blew the passages out with compressed air put in the new parts, set level/drop & put her back together. >>Added a fuel press gauge @... the inlet to carb so I felt like I had a better picture for future troubleshooting. >>When tested before & after the final mounting of the carb the press was right @... 6psi and no leaky. >>Today she ran great for the first 5 tenth of an hour, then the RPM seemed to have a mind of its own. >>Popped the bonnet and there was fuel pouring out of the top of the carb again. Shut her down and very nicely asked my wife to paddle us back to the dock. Her response is not important here. >>I seem to have an intermittent sticking float. I do not see any reason to re kit the carb, but some of you may have an idea or know of a quirk in this carb system. >>New carbs are spendy. Can I use a local auto parts for the carb, or am stuck with marine only? >>Thanks in advance >>Ted Robinson >>Terrebonne,Oregon >> _______________________________________________ >>OMC-Boats mailing list >>OMC-Boats@... >>http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats >> > > >-----Inline Message Follows----- > > > >http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/CAT_PDF/InboardFuelSystem.PDF > > > >-----Inline Message Follows----- > >Yes, Lee, the "little red sliding lever" is exactly what I'm referring to. I figured for a 1st run checklist it was easier to just refer to it as a choke, but you are absolutely correct that it does not function as a true choke. Thanks for clarifying that to all who might appreciate more than my short-cut terminology! > >On backing down the ramp, its good to be cautions about fully dropping the drive unless you are absolutely sure of conditions at the launch ramp. I launch in a very shallow creek with a poorly maintained, busted-up concrete ramp. For me to back in with the unit down would generally mean packing the drive deep into mud or busting the prop or drive on a concrete block inconveniently relocated by some bored teen. These props and drives are at such a premium that I've been to known to paddle the entire 1/2-mile out to the lake if conditions are bad enough. Even if I think it's deep enough to run (with the unit just barely in the water), I still drag a paddle over the side to feel for depth, logs, rocks, etc. Likewise, I always raise the unit before pulling out, though I drop it again to drain after I'm clear of the ramp (then raise it again ~1/2-way to travel). I also raise my speed-o tube for the same reasons. The funny part is when I warn "newbies"
 about conditions in the creek and they think their fancy jet drives are immune; eventually I'm sure to see them deep in the muck trying to pull the crud out of their plugged impellors. > > >----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Shuster" <lee.k.shuster@...> >To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'" <omc-boats@...> >Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 6:30 PM >Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST > > >> Andy, >> >> That's a great description of your time proven procedure. Thank you for pointing out the importance of proper ventilation and visual checks. >> >> I would like to point out some terminology that may be confusing new owners and/or Evinrude-Johnson differences. >> >> First, the Johnson-OMC single-lever remote control throttle-shifter has a little red sliding lever which is used increase the idle speed for cold starting. I believe this is what you are referring to as the "choke." It doesn't actually choke or enrich the fuel the way a choke does. The V-4's use a solenoid activated choke controlled from a dash-mounted switch, while all the 4-stroke GM engines have either divorced (V8's) or integral (automatic) chokes. >> >> The Evinrude push-button remote controls, do not have a separate "START" idle adjustment level. Instead Evinrude (push-button) controls rely on labeling the side of the unit with a position indicator for moving the main throttle level to a "START" position. >> >> And you are correct, as he original OMC Boat owners manuals do describe pumping the throttle to assist in cold starting, much like you would an auto of that era. That manual throttle pumping of course assumes that fuel has reached the carb float bowls. >> >> At the beginning of a season, I always pre-start the engine at home running on the hose adapter, before I get anywhere near the lake. As a precaution I always turn the fuel petcock OFF, when I'm not in the boat. When I arrive at the lake, and I'm in the launch line here's my procedure: >> >> 1) Disconnect trailer lights from vehicle >> 2) Remove storage cover >> 3) Remove rear tie-downs and install drain plug >> 4) Loosen bow-eye winch strap and remove bow-eye safety chain. >> 5) Fold-back windshield and secure (Sportsman) >> 6) Lift Motor Hatch and visually inspect for leaks or anything out of the ordinary >> 7) Insure Battery terminals are tight >> 8) Turn Fuel Petcock ON >> 9) Check Engine Oil Level >> 10) Turn ON Main Electrical "DISCONNECT" Switch >> 11) Run Blower and confirm no fumes present >> 12) Check Fuel gauge >> 13) Turn Ignition key to ON >> 14) Move Shifter into Forward and Reverse and Confirm Ammeter movement >> 15) Turn over Starter Motor for no longer than 15 seconds, in neutral >> 16) Pump throttle for 10-15 seconds >> 17) Repeat steps 15 and 16 until first signs of firing. NEVER allow motor to actually start out of water. >> 18) Back boat down ramp and into water >> 19) While still firmly on trailer, lower sterndrive gently, four or five little pulses does the trick >> 20) Run blower and double check under engine hatch (You might have forgotten Step 3!) >> 21) Set red START LEVER to REAR POSITION (Only on Johnson-OMC Single lever) >> 22) Pump Throttle two or three times >> 23) Motor should start right up -- confirm idle speed is high (1500 RPM)(If you forgot step 19, shutdown and do it now!) >> 24) Before backing off trailer, confirm sterndrive Tattle-tell is working (located on Starboard pivot point) >> 25) Continue warming up for at least 2-3 minutes >> 26) Decrease idle speed below 1000 RPM >> 27) Launch boat off trailer using little or no thrust from prop >> 28) In colder weather (45 to 60F) it takes my boat about 15-20 min of idling to reach 140 F (normal operating temp). >> 29) Let engine idle at dock, while waiting for passengers. Recheck blower, cooling, and ammeter. >> 30) Lower start lever Idle before engaging gear. "Taxi" well beyond the "No Wake" buoys and apply throttle very gradually. I usually don't even try to plane the boat (traffic and condition permitting) until I see temps approach NORMAL (135 - 140 F). >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of Andy Perakes >> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 3:06 PM >> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's >> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST >> >> The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to inspect the engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel. After you've done that, run the blower for several minutes. I usually leave the engine hatch open until it is idling nicely as an added precaution. My Reveler has a lower engine access hatch that I usually remove too.. You can do this in the water, but I usually make the first start on the trailer with the stern drive in a garbage can filled with water. >> >> As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated vehicle that has been sitting a long time is to get the fuel flowing. First I do a steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with the choke pulled up and the drive in neutral. I still have the glass bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking, I check to be sure it has filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb has started filling too. After that and without cranking the engine, I remove the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do this at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will release the entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment near the carb). >> Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see the fuel spraying from the 2 priming jets. Once I see the fuel spraying in, I probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable back in place and reinstall the flame arrestor. Then I start cranking again and will usually get a turnover/start within another 5-10 seconds of cranking. After it starts, I back off on the choke until I have a slightly fast idle (about 800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run until mildly warm (constantly checking the water flow). From there I'm ready to hit the launch ramp. >> Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you have fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually start (assuming nothing else is wrong). Its probably worth adding that I still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which consists of dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just before fuel stavation. This causes a lot of smoke the first start and can lead to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of success doing it. >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "jd" <jdood@...st.net> >> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" >> <omc-boats@...> >> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM >> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST >> >> >>> .......no i don' have one, but would like one. I am mere days from >>> launching and turning my key for the first time to see what happens. >>> but totally nervous about it. so being that these are old boats, >>> it would be nice to know what other people do before turning the key for >>> the first time at the beginning of the season. a sort of check list >>> in order of events. tap the fuel filter glass first? prime the carb >>> with fuel first? change the plugs? I've had my boat out so few times, >>> don't have much of a clue on the official OMC starting procedure, and >>> often have started it after a mechanic or someone has already been >>> messing with it a few days earlier. Had heard somewhere about >>> pumping the shift lever forward a few times to prime the engine. But >>> that could be totally wrong. So anyone want to take a stab at making >>> a little checklist? I'll get it started with an easy one.... >>> >>> 1) take boat to ramp >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> OMC-Boats mailing list >>> OMC-Boats@...ultimate.com >>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats >> >> _______________________________________________ >> OMC-Boats mailing list >> OMC-Boats@... >> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats >> _______________________________________________ >> OMC-Boats mailing list >> OMC-Boats@... >> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats > > >_______________________________________________ >OMC-Boats mailing list >OMC-Boats@...sts.ultimate.com >http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ >OMC-Boats mailing list >OMC-Boats@... >http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats > _______________________________________________ OMC-Boats mailing list OMC-Boats@... http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
Received on Tuesday, 16 June 2009