Re: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem

I hope so, I've done alot of research, and you get all kinds of answers from people. I have heard for more speed, mount it higher. I can't believe 1 and 3/4" above would kill me. I guess my test run this afternoon will tell. I might even have one of my 14x17 props cupped for kicks. What about Permatrim? Have you ever looked at those?

~Scott
 
> From: lee.k.shuster@...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 09:47:32 -0600
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem
>
> Internally coupled? Yes. There is a small pin that joins the worm gear to the driven shaft. Wonder if that broke? (implying longitude shaft failure to turn the worm gear).
>
> If you remove the end-cap retaining circlip on the end of the shaft, try to be careful not to damage the groove or you'll need the hard-to-find external reatiner kit in order to avoid a whole new intermediate housing.
>
> BTW, the BRP-OMC catalog is also duplicated at the CROWLEY MARINE website. They also show clearly what OMC parts are NLA from BRP, at least back to 1967-1/2 when the 5-bolt cap drives were introduced.
>
> Lee
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...s.ultimate.com] On Behalf Of Ethan Brodsky
> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 9:09 AM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem
>
> Unfortunately I have to join the ranks of folks on this list having problems with their tilt system...
>
> Has anyone here pulled apart the actual tilt drive shaft on an OMC sterndrive ('70 155 hp)? I'm talking about the longitudinal shaft that runs from the tilt motor through the firewall and along the top of the tilt clutch housing. My tilt stopped working yesterday afternoon after a day of diving. The tilt motor is still spinning, but the worm gear is not moving at all, so the drive was stuck down.
>
> I suspected a bad hammer-blow coupling, so I pulled the motor and coupler out from the inside, but it looks fine. The motor looks and works okay as well (a bit of corrosion, due to water leaking in throgh the tilt housing), though it does turn slightly faster in one direction than the other when tested unloaded.
>
> My understanding is that a slipping tilt clutch would still allow the worm gear to rotate, so if the worm gear isn't turning, then the only possibility I can come up with is that that longitudinal shaft has failed.
>
> The "flat-blade drive" on each side (motor and shaft) is intact (motor clearly is, the external shaft feels okay, but it is a tough reach; I will look with a mirror this afternoon when I'm not working in the dark). Are there any other couplers in the external shaft? It's hard for me to believe the shaft would've sheared - it seems like it would've failed at one of the couplers. The other possibility is that the hammer-blow failed in some way that isn't visually apparent, but I don't think there's even room in there for it to spread apart.
>
> I was just wondering if anyone on this list had pulled that shaft out. I'm concerned that it might be difficult to get back in or to reseal the endcap (which doesn't seal anyway - I'm pretty sure that's where water leaks in).
> I can't decide if I should put it all together and try it again before further disassembling things (the safe choice, but very annoying considering how difficult it is to get the tilt motor in and out), or just pull it apart and confirm that everything else is okay (also probably better for the motor, since it seems to be the fragile component, and repeated installation can't be good for it).
>
> I presume the procedure is to take off the sector gear (so the clutch housing can rotate freely), remove the retaining ring at the end of the longitudinal tilt shaft housing, then rotate the tilt clutch to "spit out"
> the worm gear shaft?
>
> Ethan
>
>
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Received on Friday, 19 June 2009