Re: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem

Yeah, that pin has been known to shear. In fact, around 72-3-4 (?) OMC engineers improved the design and added a second pin.
I would agree with Scott leave the clutch pack alone for now.

Lee

________________________________
From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...ultimate.com] On Behalf Of Scott Veazie
Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 9:51 AM
To: omc-boats@...
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem

Ethan,

While I haven't had exactly your issue (mine was a weak tilt motor) I have taken out the entire assembly, and it's really easy. Remove the tilt motor (I know this job sucks, done it four times), remove the snap ring from the worm gear, and pull the drive up physically. This should eject the plug that holds the worm gear and shaft. You very well could have a sheared pin on the shaft that connects to the tilt motor that the worm gear rides on. If the pin it broken, it will allow the shaft to spin but not engage the worm gear. Like I said, it's a pretty easy job, but does require removal of the tilt motor. You should be able to leave the clutch pack assembly alone.

~Scott

> Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:09:25 -0500
> From: brodskye@...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Another tilt problem
>
> Unfortunately I have to join the ranks of folks on this list having
> problems with their tilt system...
>
> Has anyone here pulled apart the actual tilt drive shaft on an OMC
> sterndrive ('70 155 hp)? I'm talking about the longitudinal shaft that runs
> from the tilt motor through the firewall and along the top of the tilt
> clutch housing. My tilt stopped working yesterday afternoon after a day of
> diving. The tilt motor is still spinning, but the worm gear is not moving
> at all, so the drive was stuck down.
>
> I suspected a bad hammer-blow coupling, so I pulled the motor and coupler
> out from the inside, but it looks fine. The motor looks and works okay as
> well (a bit of corrosion, due to water leaking in throgh the tilt housing),
> though it does turn slightly faster in one direction than the other when
> tested unloaded.
>
> My understanding is that a slipping tilt clutch would still allow the worm
> gear to rotate, so if the worm gear isn't turning, then the only
> possibility I can come up with is that that longitudinal shaft has failed.
>
> The "flat-blade drive" on each side (motor and shaft) is intact (motor
> clearly is, the external shaft feels okay, but it is a tough reach; I will
> look with a mirror this afternoon when I'm not working in the dark). Are
> there any other couplers in the external shaft? It's hard for me to
> believe the shaft would've sheared - it seems like it would've failed at
> one of the couplers. The other possibility is that the hammer-blow failed
> in some way that isn't visually apparent, but I don't think there's even
> room in there for it to spread apart.
>
> I was just wondering if anyone on this list had pulled that shaft out. I'm
> concerned that it might be difficult to get back in or to reseal the endcap
> (which doesn't seal anyway - I'm pretty sure that's where water leaks in).
> I can't decide if I should put it all together and try it again before
> further disassembling things (the safe choice, but very annoying
> considering how difficult it is to get the tilt motor in and out), or just
> pull it apart and confirm that everything else is okay (also probably
> better for the motor, since it seems to be the fragile component, and
> repeated installation can't be good for it).
>
> I presume the procedure is to take off the sector gear (so the clutch
> housing can rotate freely), remove the retaining ring at the end of the
> longitudinal tilt shaft housing, then rotate the tilt clutch to "spit out"
> the worm gear shaft?
>
> Ethan
>
>
> --
> Ethan Brodsky
> _______________________________________________
> OMC-Boats mailing list
> OMC-Boats@...
> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats

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Received on Friday, 19 June 2009