Exactly. My late model Ford Crown Vic has an analog oil pressure gauge
that is connected to nothing more than a switch sender. It's strictly
a "1" or a "0" but it looks like a duck.
Some corporate bean counter got the bright idea to save a buck. And
who knows? Maybe that very bean-counter is why Ford alone didn't have
to declare bankruptcy?
Lee
Sorry for the Off-topic comment/ personal opinion
On Aug 18, 2009, at 8:19 AM, ANDY PERAKES wrote:
> One thing I need to add to this discussion: Just because you have a
> guage with a needle it does not necessarily mean you have a true
> analog gauge with a continuous reading -- it may very well be
> nothing more than a fancy idiot light. Sometime about the mid-90s,
> I was shocked to learn the temperature guage on my car migrated from
> being an full-scale analog meter to a 3-position indicator with the
> needle showing cold, normal, or hot and nothing more. Any apparent
> movements in-between are completely meaningless -- it is not a
> guage, but an indicator. This was done for cost reduction and
> warrantly improvement (less sensitive to calibration variation) and
> miffs me in a big way because I can no longer tell when things are
> starting to heat up, only that they are okay or too hot. I'm not
> saying all guages are like this (from my small sampling, "work
> trucks" still use full scale guages while cars use indicators that
> look like guages), just that some are and often its impossible to
> tell them apart just by looking. The connection to boats is you
> need to be careful of what you install as well as when towing. So
> much for the "If it looks like a duck argument."
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Shuster (lib1)" <lib1@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...
> >
> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:45:03 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] &0 Seasport Overheat issues
>
> Ron,
>
> All the wiring diagrams I've ever looked at for all OMC/Johnson/
> Evinrude boats show separate, individual bulbs for both HOT and OIL
> senders. It very well could be on later (67-up) models these bulbs
> are physically housed behind a common lens on the helm? Some models
> may use combinations of gauges and idiot lights, so I'll assume you
> have no gauges and only lights.
>
> The temperature switch/sender should CLOSE, providing a ground to
> the light right around 195 - 205 deg F. (Normal operating temps are
> 140 to 170 deg F) The common OMC part no is 379756 for the temp
> sender switch. These are equipped with 1/4 blade terminals. What
> indications beside the light to use observe the HOT condition? DO
> you know how to check the TELL-TALE water-stream indicator on the
> STARBOARD sterndrive pivot point?
>
> If you use a temperature GAUGE rather than the idiot light, use OMC
> part no 171960. These measure about 450 ohms at 100 deg F and drop
> to 130 ohms at 160 deg F. These are equipped with a threaded
> terminal with hex nut and require a ring terminal. You can replace
> the idiot light sender and install a much more informative gauge .
> But you need to use the appropriate sending unit.
>
> The wiring is common to either type, so no wiring changes are
> required except for the forementioned terminal. The temp senders are
> usually located on top of intake manifolds near the thermostat
> housing.
>
> I seriously doubt you have an oil pressure issue (assuming you HAVE
> checked the dip stick for proper oil level). You can also change out
> the switch type sending unit for a oil pressure gauge. The oil
> pressure gauge sending units are physically larger and most like
> WILL require a threaded pipe fitting adaptor to provide required
> physical clearance.
>
> I've done both water temperature and oil pressure gauges on my boat
> and find the water temperature gauge far more informative over a
> variety of conditions. Lights are either ON or OFF, where gauges
> obviously have the advantage of providing a range of information.
>
> Oil pump? Extremely doubtful. But very easy to check: Disconnect
> the wiring lead from the oil switch sender. Connect an ohmmeter
> between sender terminal and good ground. Turn on ignition switch.
> Observe ohmmeter, which should indicate a closed circuit (simulating
> a OIL LIGHT ON condition). START engine, observe ohmmeter indication
> m OPEN CIRCUIT (simulating an OIL LIGHT OFF condition.) If meter
> doesn't immediately indicate an open circuit after starting engine
> and increasing idle to 2000 RPM, shutdown engine and replace sender
> switch. If new switch, doesn't open circuit while engine is running,
> check lubrication system (oil pump) or check for excessive main
> bearing wear.
>
>
> I'd bet on cooling first.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:19 PM, Andy Perakes wrote:
>
> I don't have any materials with me, but I could've sworn the idiot
> lights were for oil pressure and water temperature. I seem to
> recall one light says "Oil" and the other "Hot," but you could have
> different instrumentation. Anyhow, the one and only time my "Hot"
> light came on, it was a bad water pump.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron Mathewson
> To: omc-boats@...
> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 4:40 PM
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] &0 Seasport Overheat issues
>
> All interested,
> I got all the tilt issues work out, brand new battery and set
> out for another sea trial. Starts easy, idles smooth but was not
> accelerating very well and I attribute that to old gas and sitting
> for so long. After 10 or so minutes of putting along @... RPM I get
> the red "Hot Oil " warning lot on. If I slow it down it will turn
> off. I'm still getting a tattle tale stream from the outdrive and no
> other issues I can see. First question: Is that Hot Oil light a
> pressure or temp switch and where is it collecting the data from? I
> ran it a little longer after the light came on and it got real hot,
> but I have no way of know HOW Hot. I shut it down and had my friend
> tow me back in. Good news, it re starts so it's not broke inside.
> Oil pump?
> Any words of advice will be helpful.
>
> Ron Mathewson
>
>
> From: "omc-boats-request@..." <omc-boats-request@...
> >
> To: omc-boats@...
> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 12:00:00 PM
> Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 28, Issue 29
>
> Note: Forwarded message is attached.
>
> Send OMC-Boats mailing list submissions to
> omc-boats@...
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> omc-boats-request@...
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> omc-boats-owner@...
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of OMC-Boats digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: adjust screw on top of shifter? (Lee Shuster (lib1))
> 2. Re: OMC/Johnson and Evinrude Shifter switches (jd)
> 3. Re: 1964 Sweet 16 (...and another) (jd)
> 4. Re: adjust screw on top of shifter? (jd)
> 5. Re: adjust screw on top of shifter? (Lee Shuster (lib1))
>
>
> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>
> JD,
>
> The question you had on your JOHNSON/OMC single-lever remote control:
>
> I had an opportunity to grab a OMC factory manual from 1969-1970.
> The screw (recessed and on top?) is used to adjust the interaction
> of the FAST-IDLE/(START) lever with the N/S (neutral-safety) cutout.
>
> In other words, it is possible to (mis) adjust this so that one
> could never start, even a warm boat with the main THROTTLE lever in
> NEUTRAL, without first advancing or partially advancing the FAST-
> IDLE/(START) lever.
>
> Does that make sense?
>
> BTW mine is adjusted, so that I can always do a hot start in NEUTRAL
> without advancing the FAST-IDLE/(START) lever.
>
> If yours was mis-adjusted it might explain why you were encountering
> a locked-out staring condition.
>
> Did you see the link I posted to the $200 new replacement switch?
>
> Lee
>
>
>
> On Aug 13, 2009, at 11:05 PM, jd wrote:
>
> > hi, so for whoever is keeping track, got my boat out today for
> first time after weeks. temp prob was previous dilema, rewired
> about 75% as result. Ran around about about full speed for about
> 20 mins and temp stayed right at 160!! So yes, as I HOPED,
> knock on wood, but it appears the crazy high temp readings on 3
> separate gauges and senders I have been getting for 3 summers now
> were ultimately the result of some funky wiring grounding thing.
> Wow what a relief!
> >
> > But of course, another prob popped up (although everything seems
> downhill minor from here on). Sometimes the key would crank and
> sometimes absolutely nothing. Tracked it down to the shifter.
> Pulled it apart, poked around, traced it to a prob with the Pollak
> switch that controls forward or reverse. It was sticking, and not
> sending juice to the white wire while in neutral. Actually went
> further and did some surgery on the switch - drilled out the rivets,
> carefully took it apart. All plastic, and a crucial plastic
> piece in there is broken in half. Have it in the vice tonight and
> am hoping I can glue it back together strong enough to hold. Not
> fun. Fortunately, Have an older shifter as back up just in
> case, but it doesn't have the ":won't start in F/R" wires.
> >
> > Anyway, on to my question - what exactly does the adjustment
> screw right above the red throttle lever do? it doesn't look broken
> to me, but seems to be doing nothing. Is it a friction
> adjustment for the lever?
> >
> > jeff d
> > _______________________________________________
> > OMC-Boats mailing list
> > OMC-Boats@...
> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>
> OMG! I think entire shifters come up on ebay for way less!
>
> For those who care - my glue job held to reassemble switch, lubed
> the hell out of it, but as soon as I moved the little lever back
> and forth to test it broke again. Shouldn't have happened. But the
> fit with those little plastic pieces is so tight, i think that is
> what caused it to break in the first place. Too tight to rotate.
> Maybe old plastic shrunk a little or something? Anyway, installed
> my 1 yr older metal back up switch and everything seems to work
> fine. Haven't tested F/R at dock yet, but should be fine. That
> metal switch is nice and smooth, feels solid. No neutral safety
> feature, but oh well - just have to be careful and not start in
> gear. So this websites "new" switches for $195 look like they are
> entirely plastic. Not even the arm is metal. I would be wary.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 14, 2009, at 2:33 PM, Lee K. Shuster (lks) wrote:
>
> > New Replacement Switch for "only" $195.79
> > http://www.sterndrive.info/electric_shift_replacement_switch.html
> >
> > Maybe Phil could add this link to the website?
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Shuster (lib1)" <lib1@...
> >
> > To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...
> >
> > Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:07 AM
> > Subject: [OMC-Boats] OMC/Johnson and Evinrude Shifter switches
> >
> >
> >> Jeff D,
> >>
> >> Yes the black knob is a throttle friction adjustment.
> >>
> >> But the switch you mention is worth alerting all OMC electric
> shift owners about:
> >>
> >> There are four different switches used on OMC boats. The dividing
> line was 1969. Two for E-rudes, two for Johnson/OMC's.
> >>
> >> Both Evinrude (push-button) and Johnson/OMC (single lever) and
> third party (like Morse) introduced the 5-wire Neutral-only starter
> interlock circuit, for 1969, most likely as a result of liability
> concerns, but I don't know for sure. (If you remember, a lot of
> federal safety legislation was mandated in 1968 on the automotive
> industry, as a result of Ralph Nader's book, "Unsafe at Any Speed."
> >>
> >> Prior to 1969 all remote control shift swicthes used only 3-wires
> and did not have the safety interlock. E-rude pushbuttons all have
> a mechanical sliding "aperature" that prevents operating the
> shifter buttons beyond a partial throttle setting.
> >> If this ever slips out of place, and prevents you from shifting
> (being stuck in neutral, at your favorite fishing hole, 5 miles off
> shore is not FUN!) simply carry your hand Phillips-head and pop off
> the cover surround the push buttons. This will allow you do move
> the slider back into place and allow you to now engage forward or
> reverse.
> >>
> >> In my opinion, the Evinrude design, while perhaps less ergonomic
> (it takes two hands to simultaneously move the throttle and shift,
> as in docking) is a more robust design, and the switch assembly
> rarely fails. Johnson owners aren't as lucky.
> >>
> >> The Johnson/OMC switches are a weak point and often fail. In
> fact, I've come across a couple of sources for present-day,
> aftermarket sources. A gentleman, in Portland, OR is rebuilding
> these switches and a Canadian source has claimed it has ramped up
> production of new switches. (I have no direct experience with
> either and I'll leave it to others on this list to track them down
> and have Phil add it to his website.)
> >>
> >> Bottomline is these switches are like gold. In either style, 5 or
> 3- wire they are extremely hard to come by. Supply and demand
> dictates market prices. Anyone who owns a Johnson should start
> looking for a spare today! You should locate the current third-
> party sources. Just buying a used control off eBay, won't insure
> you are getting a useable switch. About half of them are defective,
> or will soon fail.
> >>
> >> I've also got a little tip for 69-70 Johnson 5-wire owners. I
> find that once in awhile my 5-wire, will only "reset" properly if I
> "back" the throttle into REVERSE after shutting down the engine in
> NEUTRAL. I call this my built-in, anti-theft device, like having to
> know the secret key-code combination. Only problem with this little
> quirk, is you don't want a big barge bearing down on you when your
> forget the code!
> >>
> >> Lee
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Aug 13, 2009, at 11:05 PM, jd wrote:
> >>
> >>> hi, so for whoever is keeping track, got my boat out today
> for first time after weeks. temp prob was previous dilema,
> rewired about 75% as result. Ran around about about full speed
> for about 20 mins and temp stayed right at 160!! So yes, as I
> HOPED, knock on wood, but it appears the crazy high temp
> readings on 3 separate gauges and senders I have been getting for 3
> summers now were ultimately the result of some funky wiring
> grounding thing. Wow what a relief!
> >>>
> >>> But of course, another prob popped up (although everything
> seems downhill minor from here on). Sometimes the key would crank
> and sometimes absolutely nothing. Tracked it down to the
> shifter. Pulled it apart, poked around, traced it to a prob with
> the Pollak switch that controls forward or reverse. It was
> sticking, and not sending juice to the white wire while in
> neutral. Actually went further and did some surgery on the switch
> - drilled out the rivets, carefully took it apart. All plastic,
> and a crucial plastic piece in there is broken in half. Have it in
> the vice tonight and am hoping I can glue it back together strong
> enough to hold. Not fun. Fortunately, Have an older shifter
> as back up just in case, but it doesn't have the ":won't start in
> F/R" wires.
> >>>
> >>> Anyway, on to my question - what exactly does the adjustment
> screw right above the red throttle lever do? it doesn't look broken
> to me, but seems to be doing nothing. Is it a friction
> adjustment for the lever?
> >>>
> >>> jeff d
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> OMC-Boats mailing list
> >>> OMC-Boats@...
> >>> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> OMC-Boats mailing list
> >> OMC-Boats@...
> >> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > OMC-Boats mailing list
> > OMC-Boats@...
> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
>
> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>
>
> .....and another one in Oregon......
>
> I drove by it, saw from a distance, have no idea of condition.
> It's in a used boat parts store yard with a bunch of other boats.
> yard is located at about 220th and Sandy Blvd in Fairview (basically
> Portland). I have no idea how rare those boats are but maybe it's
> a good find too. I actually drive by that spot all the time and
> would be more than happy to snap a few photos and post for any non-
> portland peeps interested on the list. Lemme know. Jeff D
>
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2009, at 6:34 AM, Ted Robinson wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > There is a 1964 Sweet 16 advertised locally for $400.00.
> > Anyone want me to look at it for them?
> >
> > Ted Robinson 1970 SeaSport
> > Terrebonne, Oregon
> > _______________________________________________
> > OMC-Boats mailing list
> > OMC-Boats@...
> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
>
> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>
> oh jeez. ok this is weird.
>
> -I've looked at that screw and associated parts in both the
> housings i have and it just seems to be connected to nothing.
> Hard to understand conceptually how the things does ANYTHING, but i
> believe you.
>
> - unless im missing something, this particular adjustment doesn't
> make a whole lot of sense. i'm confused. When would you ever need
> an adjustment that controls hot/cold starts and the position of the
> "gas" lever? That seems like putting an adjustment on a cars gas
> peddle to control whether or not you give it gas when you start it.
> Why?
>
> - now i am wondering if i really screwed things up and perhaps
> played around with that screw and that's what caused that plastic
> disk piece in the switch to break? I easily could have, but don't
> remember at what point i actually started messing with the screw.
> All i know is it was sort of behaving wierd. Sometimes cranking,
> sometimes not. And moving the red lever may have made a
> difference in there somewhere cause i'm sure out there on the water
> i was in a slight panic moving stuff back and forth. But I DIDN'T
> mess with the screw out on the water. Then at some point got it
> to crank again. Perhaps the red lever position? Then back at dock
> assumed i had some electrical thing happening with the switch. I
> think that's probably the point where I fiddled with the screw -
> mainly out of curiousity (as in "hmmm what's this do?")- while
> disassembling and testing the switch. The whole things seems
> weird and I'm still not really understanding that screw. But maybe
> i tightened it too much or something trying to see what it did,
> played with the throttle lever, and broke my switch? Really
> doubtful - i'm pretty careful. But it seemed to be doing nothing
> when i turned the screw. The shift lever moved the same, the red
> lever moved the same. Who knows.
>
> Nice to know that screw adjustment can completely disable your boat
> though. If a boat is not starting, that is probably the last
> thing anyone would check!
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2009, at 9:54 AM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
>
> > JD,
> >
> > The question you had on your JOHNSON/OMC single-lever remote
> control:
> >
> > I had an opportunity to grab a OMC factory manual from 1969-1970.
> The screw (recessed and on top?) is used to adjust the interaction
> of the FAST-IDLE/(START) lever with the N/S (neutral-safety) cutout.
> >
> > In other words, it is possible to (mis) adjust this so that one
> could never start, even a warm boat with the main THROTTLE lever in
> NEUTRAL, without first advancing or partially advancing the FAST-
> IDLE/(START) lever.
> >
> > Does that make sense?
> >
> > BTW mine is adjusted, so that I can always do a hot start in
> NEUTRAL without advancing the FAST-IDLE/(START) lever.
> >
> > If yours was mis-adjusted it might explain why you were
> encountering a locked-out staring condition.
> >
> > Did you see the link I posted to the $200 new replacement switch?
> >
> > Lee
> >
> >
> >
> > On Aug 13, 2009, at 11:05 PM, jd wrote:
> >
> >> hi, so for whoever is keeping track, got my boat out today for
> first time after weeks. temp prob was previous dilema, rewired
> about 75% as result. Ran around about about full speed for about
> 20 mins and temp stayed right at 160!! So yes, as I HOPED,
> knock on wood, but it appears the crazy high temp readings on 3
> separate gauges and senders I have been getting for 3 summers now
> were ultimately the result of some funky wiring grounding thing.
> Wow what a relief!
> >>
> >> But of course, another prob popped up (although everything seems
> downhill minor from here on). Sometimes the key would crank and
> sometimes absolutely nothing. Tracked it down to the shifter.
> Pulled it apart, poked around, traced it to a prob with the Pollak
> switch that controls forward or reverse. It was sticking, and not
> sending juice to the white wire while in neutral. Actually went
> further and did some surgery on the switch - drilled out the rivets,
> carefully took it apart. All plastic, and a crucial plastic
> piece in there is broken in half. Have it in the vice tonight and
> am hoping I can glue it back together strong enough to hold. Not
> fun. Fortunately, Have an older shifter as back up just in
> case, but it doesn't have the ":won't start in F/R" wires.
> >>
> >> Anyway, on to my question - what exactly does the adjustment
> screw right above the red throttle lever do? it doesn't look broken
> to me, but seems to be doing nothing. Is it a friction
> adjustment for the lever?
> >>
> >> jeff d
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> OMC-Boats mailing list
> >> OMC-Boats@...
> >> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > OMC-Boats mailing list
> > OMC-Boats@...
> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
>
>
>
> -----Inline Message Follows-----
>
> Yup, I didn't realize it tell I read it with my own eyes. It's just
> another example of why it pays to RTFM. I cross-referenced and the
> Seloc manual mentions it as well, but in a slightly more confusing
> manor than the factory OMC manual.
> And OBTW, the 1969 OMC/Evinrude/Johnson manual doesn't mention the 5-
> wire units. But 1970 and newer does.
>
> Remember this applies to only the 5-wire Johnson & OMC controls. E-
> rude PUSH-BUTTON owners can ignore. Your "LOCK-OUT" failure
> typically allows you to start the engine, you just can't shift.
> (Covered in a prior posting.)
>
> My ski lessons got rained out today at Jordanelle Reservoir, near
> Park City. 46 F and 3-ft white caps at 08:15 AM. Never got of the
> trailer. Oh, well.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2009, at 12:04 PM, jd wrote:
>
> > oh jeez. ok this is weird.
> >
> > -I've looked at that screw and associated parts in both the
> housings i have and it just seems to be connected to nothing.
> Hard to understand conceptually how the things does ANYTHING, but i
> believe you.
> >
> > - unless im missing something, this particular adjustment doesn't
> make a whole lot of sense. i'm confused. When would you ever need
> an adjustment that controls hot/cold starts and the position of the
> "gas" lever? That seems like putting an adjustment on a cars gas
> peddle to control whether or not you give it gas when you start it.
> Why?
> >
> > - now i am wondering if i really screwed things up and perhaps
> played around with that screw and that's what caused that plastic
> disk piece in the switch to break? I easily could have, but don't
> remember at what point i actually started messing with the screw.
> All i know is it was sort of behaving wierd. Sometimes cranking,
> sometimes not. And moving the red lever may have made a
> difference in there somewhere cause i'm sure out there on the water
> i was in a slight panic moving stuff back and forth. But I DIDN'T
> mess with the screw out on the water. Then at some point got it
> to crank again. Perhaps the red lever position? Then back at dock
> assumed i had some electrical thing happening with the switch. I
> think that's probably the point where I fiddled with the screw -
> mainly out of curiousity (as in "hmmm what's this do?")- while
> disassembling and testing the switch. The whole things seems
> weird and I'm still not really understanding that screw. But maybe
> i tightened it too much or something trying to see what it did,
> played with the throttle lever, and broke my switch? Really
> doubtful - i'm pretty careful. But it seemed to be doing nothing
> when i turned the screw. The shift lever moved the same, the red
> lever moved the same. Who knows.
> >
> > Nice to know that screw adjustment can completely disable your
> boat though. If a boat is not starting, that is probably the
> last thing anyone would check!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Aug 15, 2009, at 9:54 AM, Lee Shuster (lib1) wrote:
> >
> >> JD,
> >>
> >> The question you had on your JOHNSON/OMC single-lever remote
> control:
> >>
> >> I had an opportunity to grab a OMC factory manual from 1969-1970.
> The screw (recessed and on top?) is used to adjust the interaction
> of the FAST-IDLE/(START) lever with the N/S (neutral-safety) cutout.
> >>
> >> In other words, it is possible to (mis) adjust this so that one
> could never start, even a warm boat with the main THROTTLE lever in
> NEUTRAL, without first advancing or partially advancing the FAST-
> IDLE/(START) lever.
> >>
> >> Does that make sense?
> >>
> >> BTW mine is adjusted, so that I can always do a hot start in
> NEUTRAL without advancing the FAST-IDLE/(START) lever.
> >>
> >> If yours was mis-adjusted it might explain why you were
> encountering a locked-out staring condition.
> >>
> >> Did you see the link I posted to the $200 new replacement switch?
> >>
> >> Lee
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Aug 13, 2009, at 11:05 PM, jd wrote:
> >>
> >>> hi, so for whoever is keeping track, got my boat out today for
> first time after weeks. temp prob was previous dilema, rewired
> about 75% as result. Ran around about about full speed for about
> 20 mins and temp stayed right at 160!! So yes, as I HOPED,
> knock on wood, but it appears the crazy high temp readings on 3
> separate gauges and senders I have been getting for 3 summers now
> were ultimately the result of some funky wiring grounding thing.
> Wow what a relief!
> >>>
> >>> But of course, another prob popped up (although everything
> seems downhill minor from here on). Sometimes the key would crank
> and sometimes absolutely nothing. Tracked it down to the
> shifter. Pulled it apart, poked around, traced it to a prob with
> the Pollak switch that controls forward or reverse. It was
> sticking, and not sending juice to the white wire while in
> neutral. Actually went further and did some surgery on the switch -
> drilled out the rivets, carefully took it apart. All plastic,
> and a crucial plastic piece in there is broken in half. Have it in
> the vice tonight and am hoping I can glue it back together strong
> enough to hold. Not fun. Fortunately, Have an older shifter
> as back up just in case, but it doesn't have the ":won't start in F/
> R" wires.
> >>>
> >>> Anyway, on to my question - what exactly does the adjustment
> screw right above the red throttle lever do? it doesn't look broken
> to me, but seems to be doing nothing. Is it a friction
> adjustment for the lever?
> >>>
> >>> jeff d
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Received on Tuesday, 18 August 2009
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