Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS

Couldn't someone put a kind of rev-limiter inline, to prevent current from being cut off above a certain RPM? Am I grasping at straws here?

BTW...did anyone follow that first link I sent yesterday with the Johnson single lever setup for $40?

~Scott
 
> From: Lee.Shuster@...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 14:18:37 -0600
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS
>
> >> And isn't this switching procedure I'm having to do with the auto
> parts store rigged up switch the same thing the people with the push
> button shifters have to do? The buttons are the switch, right?
>
> NO, not exactly. E-Rude Push-Button Remotes have the benefit of a THROTTLE-COORDINATED safety lockout. This prevents shifting above a certain (adjustable) RPM AND it takes the place of a START/IDLE Lever permitting higher RPM idling/starting while in neutral.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
> ________________________________________
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [omc-boats-bounces@...ate.com] On Behalf Of jd [jdood@...]
> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 1:51 PM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS
>
> On Aug 24, 2009, at 11:47 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>
> > Your comment, "Yes it's a little weird, but it went ok," probably
> > alludes to my concerns. You might get away with it under very
> > controlled test conditions, but it still falls into the "Don't try
> > this at home, folks!" category.
>
> well, actually it didn't take too much to get used to. in reality,
> backing away from the dock was a matter of just manipulating the
> switch and steering. I didn't even touch the big lever. perhaps my
> idle is set a little high and that's why i was able to do this. But
> I don't think it's over 1000 rpm. No, my tach isn't working. I
> know - bad time to not have a functioning tach, but I can hear and
> feel it shifting pretty smooth and comparable to what it does when the
> shifter worked. When I was underway, I was always in forward
> obviously. Slowing down to a stop was a matter of moving the lever
> back to N, hearing the engine die down, then flipping the switch to
> N. But yeah, one has to be careful. I don't flip the switch
> unless i'm in N on the shifter, which sort of "guarantees" the idle
> to be down at safe level to shift. My idle seems to be a little
> sticky which is another issue for later though.
>
> And isn't this switching procedure I'm having to do with the auto
> parts store rigged up switch the same thing the people with the push
> button shifters have to do? The buttons are the switch, right?
>
>
> >
> >
> > Yes. Yes. Nothing bad. And anything under 1000 RPM, shooting for 475
> > to 625 would be ideal.
>
> ok - good.
>
>
>
>
> >
> > SAnd isn't this switching procedure I'm having to do with the auto
> parts store rigged up switch the same thing the people with the push
> button shifters have to do? The buttons are the switch, right?witch in NEUTRAL: OPEN (OR NO CONTINUITY) BETWEEN ANY WIRES/CONTACTS
> > Switch in FORWARD: CLOSED (OR CONTINUITY) BETWEEN RED and GREEN
> > WIRES/CONTACTS
> > Switch in REVERSE: CLOSED (OR CONTINUITY) BETWEEN RED and BLUE
> > WIRES/CONTACTS
> >
> > Logically RED (Purple on later OMC's) is your INPUT to the switch
> > and you outputs are either (F) GREEN or (R) Blue. Make sense?
> >
> > IS it possible you misread your indications? Perhaps confusing the
> > FORWARD and NEUTRAL WIRES/CONTACTS?
> > Did you see a symptom that would not allow you to take the gear case
> > out of neutral.
> >
> > Jeff, sometimes I find it helpful to look back at the original
> > symptom, and document everything I've done so far.
> > It's not clear from this e-mail what the current outcome of your
> > testing is. Could you actually successfully engage F and R clutch
> > coils?
>
> Yep F and R are working fine with the auto parts store rigged
> switch, so i guess the coils are working. The switch itself is
> the weird part. It closes in R as it should. Nothing closes in
> F. And when it centers itself to N, it closes (the tester lights
> up). And that's all while I'm holding in my hand moving it with my
> fingers - not mounted in the housing. So for some crazy reason the
> switch has failing in a way that is making it send power when it's in
> neutral position. Grrrrrrrr. Wish they didn't melt rubber onto
> the whole thing and then rivet it all together. Probably could be
> fixed otherwise.
>
>
> Anyway - today's mission - I still have the old broken plastic
> switch. I'm going to a local plastics place and see if they might be
> able to take it and mold me a new one from it somehow - for $50 or
> less. Otherwise I'm stuck doing the Ebay thing.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Received on Monday, 24 August 2009