Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS

On Aug 24, 2009, at 1:30 PM, Scott Veazie wrote:

> Couldn't someone put a kind of rev-limiter inline, to prevent
> current from being cut off above a certain RPM? Am I grasping at
> straws here?
>
>
> BTW...did anyone follow that first link I sent yesterday with the
> Johnson single lever setup for $40?

I did! but by the time i got there it had sold for $45 - grrrrrr!
That would've been a great deal.

>
> ~Scott
>
> > From: Lee.Shuster@...
> > To: omc-boats@...
> > Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 14:18:37 -0600
> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS
> >
> > >> And isn't this switching procedure I'm having to do with the auto
> > parts store rigged up switch the same thing the people with the push
> > button shifters have to do? The buttons are the switch, right?
> >
> > NO, not exactly. E-Rude Push-Button Remotes have the benefit of a
> THROTTLE-COORDINATED safety lockout. This prevents shifting above a
> certain (adjustable) RPM AND it takes the place of a START/IDLE
> Lever permitting higher RPM idling/starting while in neutral.
> >
> > Lee
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________________
> > From: omc-boats-bounces@... [omc-boats-bounces@...
> ] On Behalf Of jd [jdood@...]
> > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 1:51 PM
> > To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS
> >
> > On Aug 24, 2009, at 11:47 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
> >
> > > Your comment, "Yes it's a little weird, but it went ok," probably
> > > alludes to my concerns. You might get away with it under very
> > > controlled test conditions, but it still falls into the "Don't try
> > > this at home, folks!" category.
> >
> > well, actually it didn't take too much to get used to. in reality,
> > backing away from the dock was a matter of just manipulating the
> > switch and steering. I didn't even touch the big lever. perhaps my
> > idle is set a little high and that's why i was able to do this. But
> > I don't think it's over 1000 rpm. No, my tach isn't working. I
> > know - bad time to not have a functioning tach, but I can hear and
> > feel it shifting pretty smooth and comparable to what it does when
> the
> > shifter worked. When I was underway, I was always in forward
> > obviously. Slowing down to a stop was a matter of moving the lever
> > back to N, hearing the engine die down, then flipping the switch to
> > N. But yeah, one has to be careful. I don't flip the switch
> > unless i'm in N on the shifter, which sort of "guarantees" the idle
> > to be down at safe level to shift. My idle seems to be a little
> > sticky which is another issue for later though.
> >
> > And isn't this switching procedure I'm having to do with the auto
> > parts store rigged up switch the same thing the people with the push
> > button shifters have to do? The buttons are the switch, right?
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yes. Yes. Nothing bad. And anything under 1000 RPM, shooting for
> 475
> > > to 625 would be ideal.
> >
> > ok - good.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > SAnd isn't this switching procedure I'm having to do with the auto
> > parts store rigged up switch the same thing the people with the push
> > button shifters have to do? The buttons are the switch, right?
> witch in NEUTRAL: OPEN (OR NO CONTINUITY) BETWEEN ANY WIRES/CONTACTS
> > > Switch in FORWARD: CLOSED (OR CONTINUITY) BETWEEN RED and GREEN
> > > WIRES/CONTACTS
> > > Switch in REVERSE: CLOSED (OR CONTINUITY) BETWEEN RED and BLUE
> > > WIRES/CONTACTS
> > >
> > > Logically RED (Purple on later OMC's) is your INPUT to the switch
> > > and you outputs are either (F) GREEN or (R) Blue. Make sense?
> > >
> > > IS it possible you misread your indications? Perhaps confusing the
> > > FORWARD and NEUTRAL WIRES/CONTACTS?
> > > Did you see a symptom that would not allow you to take the gear
> case
> > > out of neutral.
> > >
> > > Jeff, sometimes I find it helpful to look back at the original
> > > symptom, and document everything I've done so far.
> > > It's not clear from this e-mail what the current outcome of your
> > > testing is. Could you actually successfully engage F and R clutch
> > > coils?
> >
> > Yep F and R are working fine with the auto parts store rigged
> > switch, so i guess the coils are working. The switch itself is
> > the weird part. It closes in R as it should. Nothing closes in
> > F. And when it centers itself to N, it closes (the tester lights
> > up). And that's all while I'm holding in my hand moving it with my
> > fingers - not mounted in the housing. So for some crazy reason the
> > switch has failing in a way that is making it send power when it's
> in
> > neutral position. Grrrrrrrr. Wish they didn't melt rubber onto
> > the whole thing and then rivet it all together. Probably could be
> > fixed otherwise.
> >
> >
> > Anyway - today's mission - I still have the old broken plastic
> > switch. I'm going to a local plastics place and see if they might be
> > able to take it and mold me a new one from it somehow - for $50 or
> > less. Otherwise I'm stuck doing the Ebay thing.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > OMC-Boats mailing list
> > OMC-Boats@...
> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
> > _______________________________________________
> > OMC-Boats mailing list
> > OMC-Boats@...
> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
>
> Hotmail® is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast. Try
> it now. _______________________________________________
> OMC-Boats mailing list
> OMC-Boats@...
> http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
Received on Tuesday, 25 August 2009