Actually, life preservers typically only have about 10-15 lbs of flotation.
Homo Sapiens are mostly water so it doesn't take much to make us float --
which explains why it only takes a few days of bacterial gasation to make
the dead bodies float back to the surface of the Detroit River.
Btw whoever said fiberglass floats needs to tell that to the big chunks of
fiberglass I've pulled out of Lake Huron!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> I think the advertising gurus took poetic license with the flotation
value.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <lib1@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 2:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I've found all of your comments on re-foaming interesting. And thought
I'd
> > send along some original Evinrude statements about the manufacturing
> > process:
> >
> > Last night I sent some scans (which apparently are too large for the
mail
> > list server) of the original Evinrude construction process.
> >
> > Here's what the paragraph said of the original construction and foaming
> > process:
> >
> > "Rigid, closed-cell polyurethane floatation (equivalent to 73 life
> > preservers) provides additional structual strength. Foaming is done
under
> > 250,000 lbs of pressure. Closed dies lock the hull in a steel embrace
> > during the foaming operation."
> >
> > "Special foaming machines produce high-pressure foam twice as dense and
> > far stronger than poured-in foam. It can't "work" or develop voids;
won't
> > absorb moisture, shrink. or pull away from the hull regardless of
> > temperature or operating conditions."
> >
> > If you do the simple math that one live preserver could support an adult
> > weighing 170 pounds x 73 then that equals roughly 12,410 lbs of
> > floatation.
> >
> > I think Evinrude was more than meeting the floatation standards of BIA
or
> > whoever it was reasponsible for setting such standards..
> >
> > Lee
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> > To: <omc-boats@...>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:17 AM
> > Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >
> >
> >> Thanks for the info Dave sounds like the easiest way to go. I just read
> >> an article that states you only need enough buoyancy to float the metal
> >> and miscellaneous parts of the boat as fiberglass floats.
> >>
> >> A cubic foot of foam will float about 60 pounds of "dead weight". The
> >> wood parts of your boat will probably float, so you don't need
flotation
> >> foam to offset that weight. The fiberglass parts of your boat will
> >> barely sink, so you really don't need much foam to offset the
fiberglass-
> >> maybe one cubic foot of foam per two hundred pounds (or more) of
> >> fiberglass hull. The metal parts of your boat are what you really need
> >> to account for.
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "jdhanson" <jdhanson@...>
> >> To: <omc-boats@...>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 4:25 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>
> >>
> >>> Hey Glen,
> >>> I went about re-foaming the same way Mike did. However, instead of
> >>> using the pour in type foam. I used "Versi- Foam Systems" foam it is
> >>> the type of foam with a two part mixing nozzle on it. Here is a
link
> >>> for some info.
> >>> www.rhhfoamsystems.com/literature/mfb-1/index.html After I re-glassing
> >>> the seems and edges on the new floor. I drilled little holes every
> >>> foot. Just big enough for the mixing nozzle tip to fit in them. I
> >>> worked my way from the back of each of the three channels toward the
bow
> >>> of the boat filling each hole until the foam was shooting out of the
> >>> hole in front of that hole. Doing it this way I was able to fill
every
> >>> space and put the floor back exactly how it was. The real good thing
> >>> about using the mixing nozzle was that you did not have to stop and
> >>> remix more foam. The foaming part its self was the easiest and
fastest
> >>> part of the rebuild. I'm not sure exactly how much foam is used in
your
> >>> boat. My boat is the sport 16. It took about 29 cubic feet of foam!
> >>> Well I hope this info helps.... Dave H
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Aug 23, 2005, at 7:29 AM, Glenn Halweg wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Thanks for the info! That's the same place Tom Klauber bought his.
How
> >>>> much did you use for your boat? Was 9.5 cubic feet enough, that's the
> >>>> smallest size they offer. Would almost seem like to much.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Masters, Michael"
> >>>> <mmasters@...>
> >>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:21 AM
> >>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I believe it was Fibre Glast in Ohio. Very quick service from them
> >>>>> but I'm
> >>>>> in Buffalo so not very far to ship.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> >>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On
> >>>>> Behalf Of Glenn Halweg
> >>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 10:15 AM
> >>>>> To: omc-boats@...
> >>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Mike, where did you get the foam?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>>>> From: "Masters, Michael" <mmasters@...>
> >>>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
> >>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:08 AM
> >>>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> I went the other way on the re-foaming. I have a 1966 17' OMC Dual
> >>>>>> Deluxe.
> >>>>>> The foam was saturated and wouldn't dry so I removed everything
down
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> hull. Then I built a new floor, resined the seams and edges, and
> >>>>>> drilled
> >>>>>> holes to pour in 2 part foam. It filled the hull and raised the
> >>>>>> floor.
> >>>>>> Very
> >>>>>> solid and firm. Just wanted you to know that either method can work
> >>>>>> and
> >>>>>> that
> >>>>>> it can be very exciting working with 2 part foam.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> >>>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]
> >>>>>> On
> >>>>>> Behalf Of Thomas Klauber
> >>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 9:00 PM
> >>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...
> >>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I guess I didn't proof the text well enough! You need to make sure
> >>>>>> you
> >>>>>> don't
> >>>>>> over foam the hull as you will have to sand a lot of foam to get
the
> >>>>>> floor
> >>>>>> back to the right level so the sides will fit back into place. You
> >>>>>> will
> >>>>>> become aware of this as you take things apart. I pulled the floor
> >>>>>> out and
> >>>>>> saved as much as I could to use as a template to cut the new
plywood.
> >>>>>> Measure everything. Look at everything like seams and where the T
> >>>>>> nuts are
> >>>>>> placed - you need to measure their location so the seats will go
> >>>>>> back in
> >>>>>> proper position or otherwise you can mount the seats with wood
> >>>>>> screws.
> >>>>>> Don't
> >>>>>> screw them through the bottom! There will be a ghost edge at the
> >>>>>> floor and
> >>>>>> you don't want to fill above that level. You can leave 2-3 inches
of
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> original foam at the edges to act as a ledge or level to know the
> >>>>>> height
> >>>>>> you
> >>>>>> need to refill. I think the factory put the floor in first and then
> >>>>>> injected
> >>>>>> the foam which expanded to fit the cavity. I did the reverse. I
> >>>>>> would pour
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> a
> >>>>>> small amount of foam and put plastic sheet and a board on top so
the
> >>>>>> foam
> >>>>>> would expand just to the height I wanted. Remove the sheet which
> >>>>>> will not
> >>>>>> stick to the foam and do another section next to it.You figure it
> >>>>>> out as
> >>>>>> you
> >>>>>> go. The foam is a 2 part mixture you mix and pour and it expands
> >>>>>> rapidly
> >>>>>> and
> >>>>>> with some force. It is cured say in 5 minutes. I wanted my floor to
> >>>>>> be as
> >>>>>> close to original so I didn't have to re-engineer things. The whole
> >>>>>> project
> >>>>>> took months as I am slow but the end result is perfect. I used
> >>>>>> regular
> >>>>>> plywood and common fiberglass materials. I used materials from a
> >>>>>> company
> >>>>>> called Fibre Glast - they do a nice business on line and ship fast.
> >>>>>> You
> >>>>>> want
> >>>>>> to use fresh materials. Let me know if this helps or if you need
more
> >>>>>> info.
> >>>>>> I could spend hours on this subject. TK
> >>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>>>>> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
> >>>>>> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
> >>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 12:00 PM
> >>>>>> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> omc-boats-digest Monday, August 22 2005 Volume 01 :
> >>>>>>> Number
> >>>>>>> 367
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>> Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>>
>
>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>>>>> --
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 08:08:00 -0400
> >>>>>>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
> >>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
> >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
> >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire
hull
> >>>>>>> is
> >>>>>>> = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one
gray
> >>>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I
> >>>>>>> used
> >>>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
> >>>>>>> gotten
> >>>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
> >>>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to
> >>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is
to
> >>>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are where
the
> >>>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment deck.
The
> >>>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over foam
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did not
> >>>>>>> touch
> >>>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass. There
> >>>>>>> are
> >>>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats mount
> >>>>>>> to
> >>>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy to
> >>>>>>> get
> >>>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the
> >>>>>>> hard
> >>>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
> >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the disassembly
so
> >>>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch and
> >>>>>>> side
> >>>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes. The
> >>>>>>> wood
> >>>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
> >>>>>>> started.
> >>>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
> >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
> >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
> >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> >>>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html;
=
> >>>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722"
> >>>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> >>>>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue
> >>>>>>> about =
> >>>>>>> 3 years ago.=20
> >>>>>>> The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal
> >>>>>>> stringers = and one=20 gray PVC pipe connecting the front "bilge"
> >>>>>>> area
> >>>>>>> to the rear bilge. I = used a=20 large Forstner drill bit to
remove
> >>>>>>> the foam. Some of it had gotten = waterlogged.=20 The stringers go
> >>>>>>> from front to rear.They are not visible and=20
> >>>>>>> are sheathed
> >>>>>>> in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to = the fiberglass=20
> >>>>>>> hull
> >>>>>>> with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Their
main
> >>>>>>> =
> >>>>>>> purpose I=20 think is to provide rigidity to the hull and more
> >>>>>>> important they are = where the=20 engine mounts are supported
under
> >>>>>>> the engine compartment deck. The = fiberglass=20 floor you see in
> >>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>> engine compartment is over foam and is a = separate=20 piece
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor =
surface
> >>>>>>> is=20 plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going
> >>>>>>> through
> >>>>>>> the = floor to the=20 stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in
the
> >>>>>>> reverse side of the = plywood. The=20 foam is easy to get out
> >>>>>>> really.
> >>>>>>> It is a 2 part polyurethane foam. = Rebuilding is=20 the hard part
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> really quite simple but you need to take as many=20
> >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and during the
disassembly
> >>>>>>> so = things=20 will fit back together. Dimensions at the rear
hatch
> >>>>>>> and side panels are = tight=20 and you don't want to make many
> >>>>>>> mistakes. The wood surrounding my front = bilge=20 had rotted and
> >>>>>>> that's what go me started. Email if you need further=20
> >>>>>>> instructions.
> >>>>>>> Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0--
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> - -----
> >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> ------------------------------
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 07:24:06 -0500
> >>>>>>> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
> >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
> >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple.
> >>>>>>> What's = involved?=20
> >>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----=20
> >>>>>>> From: Thomas Klauber=20
> >>>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...=20
> >>>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:08 AM
> >>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire
hull
> >>>>>>> is = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one
> >>>>>>> gray
> >>>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I
> >>>>>>> used
> >>>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
> >>>>>>> gotten
> >>>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
> >>>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to
> >>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is
to
> >>>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are where
the
> >>>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment deck.
The
> >>>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over foam
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did not
> >>>>>>> touch
> >>>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass. There
> >>>>>>> are
> >>>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats mount
> >>>>>>> to
> >>>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy to
> >>>>>>> get
> >>>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the
> >>>>>>> hard
> >>>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
> >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the disassembly
so
> >>>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch and
> >>>>>>> side
> >>>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes. The
> >>>>>>> wood
> >>>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
> >>>>>>> started.
> >>>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
> >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
> >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
> >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> >>>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html;
=
> >>>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722"
> >>>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> >>>>>>> <DIV>Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really
quite
> >>>>>>> =
> >>>>>>> simple.=20 What's involved? </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
> >>>>>>> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
=
> >>>>>>> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV
> >>>>>>> style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> >>>>>>> <DIV=20
> >>>>>>> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> >>>>>>> black"><B>From:</B>=20 <A title=3Dtklauber@... =
> >>>>>>> href=3D"mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas=20
> >>>>>>> Klauber</A> </DIV>
> >>>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
> >>>>>>> title=3Domc-boats-digest@...=20
> >>>>>>> =
> >>>>>>> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats-digest@...">omc-boats-
> >>>>>>> digest@...
> >>>>>>> e.c=
> >>>>>>> om</A>=20
> >>>>>>> </DIV>
> >>>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 22,
> >>>>>>> 2005
> >>>>>>> = 7:08=20 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt
arial"><B>Subject:</B>
> >>>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue = Hull</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT
> >>>>>>> face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue = about 3
> >>>>>>> years=20 ago. The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2
> >>>>>>> longitudinal = stringers=20 and one gray PVC pipe connecting the
> >>>>>>> front "bilge" area to the rear = bilge. I=20 used a large
Forstner
> >>>>>>> drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had = gotten=20
> >>>>>>> waterlogged.
> >>>>>>> The stringers go from front to rear.They are not = visible
> >>>>>>> and=20
> >>>>>>> are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to =
> >>>>>>> the fiberglass=20 hull with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT
> >>>>>>> face=3DArial
> >>>>>>> size=3D2> Their = main purpose I=20 think is to provide
> >>>>>>> rigidity
> >>>>>>> to the hull and more important they are = where the=20 engine
> >>>>>>> mounts
> >>>>>>> are supported under the engine compartment deck. The =
fiberglass=20
> >>>>>>> floor you see in the engine compartment is over foam and is
a
> >>>>>>> =
> >>>>>>> separate=20 piece and is glassed in at the edges - I did not
touch
> >>>>>>> it. The floor = surface=20 is plywood covered with fiberglass.
> >>>>>>> There
> >>>>>>> are screws going through the = floor=20 to the stringers. The
seats
> >>>>>>> mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side of = the=20 plywood. The
foam
> >>>>>>> is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam.=20
> >>>>>>> Rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple but you need
to
> >>>>>>> =
> >>>>>>> take as=20 many measurements/photos before you start and
> >>>>>>> during
> >>>>>>> the = disassembly so=20 things will fit back together. Dimensions
> >>>>>>> at
> >>>>>>> the rear hatch and side = panels=20 are tight and you don't want
to
> >>>>>>> make many mistakes. The wood = surrounding my=20 front bilge had
> >>>>>>> rotted and that's what go me started. Email if you = need=20
further
> >>>>>>> instructions. Tom</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0--
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> - -----
> >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> ------------------------------
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >>>>>>> *******************************
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> -----
> >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
> >>>>>>> omc-boats-digest-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----
> >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>>> -----
> >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -----
> >>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>> -----
> >>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>
> >>>> -----
> >>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> -----
> >>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>
> >> -----
> >> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > -----
> > To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
-----
To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
Received on Wednesday, 24 August 2005
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