Yup, water is neutral on buoyancy - muscle is not - but I have overcome that -
with a surplus of fat - which of course is buoyant - so I only need a 2 oz.
preserver! Dave
Andy Perakes wrote:
> Actually, life preservers typically only have about 10-15 lbs of flotation.
> Homo Sapiens are mostly water so it doesn't take much to make us float --
> which explains why it only takes a few days of bacterial gasation to make
> the dead bodies float back to the surface of the Detroit River.
>
> Btw whoever said fiberglass floats needs to tell that to the big chunks of
> fiberglass I've pulled out of Lake Huron!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 4:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>
> > I think the advertising gurus took poetic license with the flotation
> value.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <lib1@...>
> > To: <omc-boats@...>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 2:32 PM
> > Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> >
> >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I've found all of your comments on re-foaming interesting. And thought
> I'd
> > > send along some original Evinrude statements about the manufacturing
> > > process:
> > >
> > > Last night I sent some scans (which apparently are too large for the
> mail
> > > list server) of the original Evinrude construction process.
> > >
> > > Here's what the paragraph said of the original construction and foaming
> > > process:
> > >
> > > "Rigid, closed-cell polyurethane floatation (equivalent to 73 life
> > > preservers) provides additional structual strength. Foaming is done
> under
> > > 250,000 lbs of pressure. Closed dies lock the hull in a steel embrace
> > > during the foaming operation."
> > >
> > > "Special foaming machines produce high-pressure foam twice as dense and
> > > far stronger than poured-in foam. It can't "work" or develop voids;
> won't
> > > absorb moisture, shrink. or pull away from the hull regardless of
> > > temperature or operating conditions."
> > >
> > > If you do the simple math that one live preserver could support an adult
> > > weighing 170 pounds x 73 then that equals roughly 12,410 lbs of
> > > floatation.
> > >
> > > I think Evinrude was more than meeting the floatation standards of BIA
> or
> > > whoever it was reasponsible for setting such standards..
> > >
> > > Lee
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> > > To: <omc-boats@...>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:17 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> > >
> > >
> > >> Thanks for the info Dave sounds like the easiest way to go. I just read
> > >> an article that states you only need enough buoyancy to float the metal
> > >> and miscellaneous parts of the boat as fiberglass floats.
> > >>
> > >> A cubic foot of foam will float about 60 pounds of "dead weight". The
> > >> wood parts of your boat will probably float, so you don't need
> flotation
> > >> foam to offset that weight. The fiberglass parts of your boat will
> > >> barely sink, so you really don't need much foam to offset the
> fiberglass-
> > >> maybe one cubic foot of foam per two hundred pounds (or more) of
> > >> fiberglass hull. The metal parts of your boat are what you really need
> > >> to account for.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "jdhanson" <jdhanson@...>
> > >> To: <omc-boats@...>
> > >> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 4:25 AM
> > >> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> Hey Glen,
> > >>> I went about re-foaming the same way Mike did. However, instead of
> > >>> using the pour in type foam. I used "Versi- Foam Systems" foam it is
> > >>> the type of foam with a two part mixing nozzle on it. Here is a
> link
> > >>> for some info.
> > >>> www.rhhfoamsystems.com/literature/mfb-1/index.html After I re-glassing
> > >>> the seems and edges on the new floor. I drilled little holes every
> > >>> foot. Just big enough for the mixing nozzle tip to fit in them. I
> > >>> worked my way from the back of each of the three channels toward the
> bow
> > >>> of the boat filling each hole until the foam was shooting out of the
> > >>> hole in front of that hole. Doing it this way I was able to fill
> every
> > >>> space and put the floor back exactly how it was. The real good thing
> > >>> about using the mixing nozzle was that you did not have to stop and
> > >>> remix more foam. The foaming part its self was the easiest and
> fastest
> > >>> part of the rebuild. I'm not sure exactly how much foam is used in
> your
> > >>> boat. My boat is the sport 16. It took about 29 cubic feet of foam!
> > >>> Well I hope this info helps.... Dave H
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> On Aug 23, 2005, at 7:29 AM, Glenn Halweg wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>>> Thanks for the info! That's the same place Tom Klauber bought his.
> How
> > >>>> much did you use for your boat? Was 9.5 cubic feet enough, that's the
> > >>>> smallest size they offer. Would almost seem like to much.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Masters, Michael"
> > >>>> <mmasters@...>
> > >>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
> > >>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:21 AM
> > >>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> I believe it was Fibre Glast in Ohio. Very quick service from them
> > >>>>> but I'm
> > >>>>> in Buffalo so not very far to ship.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> -----Original Message-----
> > >>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> > >>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On
> > >>>>> Behalf Of Glenn Halweg
> > >>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 10:15 AM
> > >>>>> To: omc-boats@...
> > >>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Mike, where did you get the foam?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > >>>>> From: "Masters, Michael" <mmasters@...>
> > >>>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
> > >>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:08 AM
> > >>>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> I went the other way on the re-foaming. I have a 1966 17' OMC Dual
> > >>>>>> Deluxe.
> > >>>>>> The foam was saturated and wouldn't dry so I removed everything
> down
> > >>>>>> to
> > >>>>>> the
> > >>>>>> hull. Then I built a new floor, resined the seams and edges, and
> > >>>>>> drilled
> > >>>>>> holes to pour in 2 part foam. It filled the hull and raised the
> > >>>>>> floor.
> > >>>>>> Very
> > >>>>>> solid and firm. Just wanted you to know that either method can work
> > >>>>>> and
> > >>>>>> that
> > >>>>>> it can be very exciting working with 2 part foam.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Mike
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> > >>>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> > >>>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]
> > >>>>>> On
> > >>>>>> Behalf Of Thomas Klauber
> > >>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 9:00 PM
> > >>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...
> > >>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> I guess I didn't proof the text well enough! You need to make sure
> > >>>>>> you
> > >>>>>> don't
> > >>>>>> over foam the hull as you will have to sand a lot of foam to get
> the
> > >>>>>> floor
> > >>>>>> back to the right level so the sides will fit back into place. You
> > >>>>>> will
> > >>>>>> become aware of this as you take things apart. I pulled the floor
> > >>>>>> out and
> > >>>>>> saved as much as I could to use as a template to cut the new
> plywood.
> > >>>>>> Measure everything. Look at everything like seams and where the T
> > >>>>>> nuts are
> > >>>>>> placed - you need to measure their location so the seats will go
> > >>>>>> back in
> > >>>>>> proper position or otherwise you can mount the seats with wood
> > >>>>>> screws.
> > >>>>>> Don't
> > >>>>>> screw them through the bottom! There will be a ghost edge at the
> > >>>>>> floor and
> > >>>>>> you don't want to fill above that level. You can leave 2-3 inches
> of
> > >>>>>> the
> > >>>>>> original foam at the edges to act as a ledge or level to know the
> > >>>>>> height
> > >>>>>> you
> > >>>>>> need to refill. I think the factory put the floor in first and then
> > >>>>>> injected
> > >>>>>> the foam which expanded to fit the cavity. I did the reverse. I
> > >>>>>> would pour
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> a
> > >>>>>> small amount of foam and put plastic sheet and a board on top so
> the
> > >>>>>> foam
> > >>>>>> would expand just to the height I wanted. Remove the sheet which
> > >>>>>> will not
> > >>>>>> stick to the foam and do another section next to it.You figure it
> > >>>>>> out as
> > >>>>>> you
> > >>>>>> go. The foam is a 2 part mixture you mix and pour and it expands
> > >>>>>> rapidly
> > >>>>>> and
> > >>>>>> with some force. It is cured say in 5 minutes. I wanted my floor to
> > >>>>>> be as
> > >>>>>> close to original so I didn't have to re-engineer things. The whole
> > >>>>>> project
> > >>>>>> took months as I am slow but the end result is perfect. I used
> > >>>>>> regular
> > >>>>>> plywood and common fiberglass materials. I used materials from a
> > >>>>>> company
> > >>>>>> called Fibre Glast - they do a nice business on line and ship fast.
> > >>>>>> You
> > >>>>>> want
> > >>>>>> to use fresh materials. Let me know if this helps or if you need
> more
> > >>>>>> info.
> > >>>>>> I could spend hours on this subject. TK
> > >>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > >>>>>> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
> > >>>>>> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
> > >>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 12:00 PM
> > >>>>>> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> omc-boats-digest Monday, August 22 2005 Volume 01 :
> > >>>>>>> Number
> > >>>>>>> 367
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> > >>>>>>> Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> > >>>>>>>
> >
> >>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >>>>>>> --
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 08:08:00 -0400
> > >>>>>>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
> > >>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
> > >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
> > >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> > >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire
> hull
> > >>>>>>> is
> > >>>>>>> = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one
> gray
> > >>>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I
> > >>>>>>> used
> > >>>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
> > >>>>>>> gotten
> > >>>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
> > >>>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to
> > >>>>>>> the
> > >>>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is
> to
> > >>>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are where
> the
> > >>>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment deck.
> The
> > >>>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over foam
> > >>>>>>> and
> > >>>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did not
> > >>>>>>> touch
> > >>>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass. There
> > >>>>>>> are
> > >>>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats mount
> > >>>>>>> to
> > >>>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy to
> > >>>>>>> get
> > >>>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the
> > >>>>>>> hard
> > >>>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
> > >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the disassembly
> so
> > >>>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch and
> > >>>>>>> side
> > >>>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes. The
> > >>>>>>> wood
> > >>>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
> > >>>>>>> started.
> > >>>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
> > >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
> > >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> > >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > >>>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html;
> =
> > >>>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722"
> > >>>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > >>>>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue
> > >>>>>>> about =
> > >>>>>>> 3 years ago.=20
> > >>>>>>> The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal
> > >>>>>>> stringers = and one=20 gray PVC pipe connecting the front "bilge"
> > >>>>>>> area
> > >>>>>>> to the rear bilge. I = used a=20 large Forstner drill bit to
> remove
> > >>>>>>> the foam. Some of it had gotten = waterlogged.=20 The stringers go
> > >>>>>>> from front to rear.They are not visible and=20
> > >>>>>>> are sheathed
> > >>>>>>> in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to = the fiberglass=20
> > >>>>>>> hull
> > >>>>>>> with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Their
> main
> > >>>>>>> =
> > >>>>>>> purpose I=20 think is to provide rigidity to the hull and more
> > >>>>>>> important they are = where the=20 engine mounts are supported
> under
> > >>>>>>> the engine compartment deck. The = fiberglass=20 floor you see in
> > >>>>>>> the
> > >>>>>>> engine compartment is over foam and is a = separate=20 piece
> > >>>>>>> and
> > >>>>>>> is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor =
> surface
> > >>>>>>> is=20 plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going
> > >>>>>>> through
> > >>>>>>> the = floor to the=20 stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in
> the
> > >>>>>>> reverse side of the = plywood. The=20 foam is easy to get out
> > >>>>>>> really.
> > >>>>>>> It is a 2 part polyurethane foam. = Rebuilding is=20 the hard part
> > >>>>>>> and
> > >>>>>>> really quite simple but you need to take as many=20
> > >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and during the
> disassembly
> > >>>>>>> so = things=20 will fit back together. Dimensions at the rear
> hatch
> > >>>>>>> and side panels are = tight=20 and you don't want to make many
> > >>>>>>> mistakes. The wood surrounding my front = bilge=20 had rotted and
> > >>>>>>> that's what go me started. Email if you need further=20
> > >>>>>>> instructions.
> > >>>>>>> Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0--
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> - -----
> > >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> ------------------------------
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 07:24:06 -0500
> > >>>>>>> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> > >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
> > >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
> > >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> > >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple.
> > >>>>>>> What's = involved?=20
> > >>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----=20
> > >>>>>>> From: Thomas Klauber=20
> > >>>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...=20
> > >>>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:08 AM
> > >>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire
> hull
> > >>>>>>> is = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one
> > >>>>>>> gray
> > >>>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I
> > >>>>>>> used
> > >>>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
> > >>>>>>> gotten
> > >>>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
> > >>>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to
> > >>>>>>> the
> > >>>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is
> to
> > >>>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are where
> the
> > >>>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment deck.
> The
> > >>>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over foam
> > >>>>>>> and
> > >>>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did not
> > >>>>>>> touch
> > >>>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass. There
> > >>>>>>> are
> > >>>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats mount
> > >>>>>>> to
> > >>>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy to
> > >>>>>>> get
> > >>>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the
> > >>>>>>> hard
> > >>>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
> > >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the disassembly
> so
> > >>>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch and
> > >>>>>>> side
> > >>>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes. The
> > >>>>>>> wood
> > >>>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
> > >>>>>>> started.
> > >>>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
> > >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
> > >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
> > >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > >>>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html;
> =
> > >>>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722"
> > >>>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > >>>>>>> <DIV>Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really
> quite
> > >>>>>>> =
> > >>>>>>> simple.=20 What's involved? </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
> > >>>>>>> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
> =
> > >>>>>>> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV
> > >>>>>>> style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> > >>>>>>> <DIV=20
> > >>>>>>> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> > >>>>>>> black"><B>From:</B>=20 <A title=3Dtklauber@... =
> > >>>>>>> href=3D"mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas=20
> > >>>>>>> Klauber</A> </DIV>
> > >>>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
> > >>>>>>> title=3Domc-boats-digest@...=20
> > >>>>>>> =
> > >>>>>>> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats-digest@...">omc-boats-
> > >>>>>>> digest@...
> > >>>>>>> e.c=
> > >>>>>>> om</A>=20
> > >>>>>>> </DIV>
> > >>>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 22,
> > >>>>>>> 2005
> > >>>>>>> = 7:08=20 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Subject:</B>
> > >>>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue = Hull</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT
> > >>>>>>> face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue = about 3
> > >>>>>>> years=20 ago. The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2
> > >>>>>>> longitudinal = stringers=20 and one gray PVC pipe connecting the
> > >>>>>>> front "bilge" area to the rear = bilge. I=20 used a large
> Forstner
> > >>>>>>> drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had = gotten=20
> > >>>>>>> waterlogged.
> > >>>>>>> The stringers go from front to rear.They are not = visible
> > >>>>>>> and=20
> > >>>>>>> are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to =
> > >>>>>>> the fiberglass=20 hull with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT
> > >>>>>>> face=3DArial
> > >>>>>>> size=3D2> Their = main purpose I=20 think is to provide
> > >>>>>>> rigidity
> > >>>>>>> to the hull and more important they are = where the=20 engine
> > >>>>>>> mounts
> > >>>>>>> are supported under the engine compartment deck. The =
> fiberglass=20
> > >>>>>>> floor you see in the engine compartment is over foam and is
> a
> > >>>>>>> =
> > >>>>>>> separate=20 piece and is glassed in at the edges - I did not
> touch
> > >>>>>>> it. The floor = surface=20 is plywood covered with fiberglass.
> > >>>>>>> There
> > >>>>>>> are screws going through the = floor=20 to the stringers. The
> seats
> > >>>>>>> mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side of = the=20 plywood. The
> foam
> > >>>>>>> is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam.=20
> > >>>>>>> Rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple but you need
> to
> > >>>>>>> =
> > >>>>>>> take as=20 many measurements/photos before you start and
> > >>>>>>> during
> > >>>>>>> the = disassembly so=20 things will fit back together. Dimensions
> > >>>>>>> at
> > >>>>>>> the rear hatch and side = panels=20 are tight and you don't want
> to
> > >>>>>>> make many mistakes. The wood = surrounding my=20 front bilge had
> > >>>>>>> rotted and that's what go me started. Email if you = need=20
> further
> > >>>>>>> instructions. Tom</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0--
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> - -----
> > >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> ------------------------------
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> > >>>>>>> *******************************
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> -----
> > >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
> > >>>>>>> omc-boats-digest-unsubscribe@...
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> -----
> > >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>>>>> -----
> > >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> -----
> > >>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>>>> -----
> > >>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>>>
> > >>>> -----
> > >>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>> -----
> > >>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>
> > >> -----
> > >> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > -----
> > > To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >
> > -----
> > To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >
>
> -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
-----
To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
Received on Thursday, 25 August 2005
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