You and me both Dave, can probably float without any help at all.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David" <odin@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> Yup, water is neutral on buoyancy - muscle is not - but I have overcome
> that -
> with a surplus of fat - which of course is buoyant - so I only need a 2
> oz.
> preserver! Dave
>
> Andy Perakes wrote:
>
>> Actually, life preservers typically only have about 10-15 lbs of
>> flotation.
>> Homo Sapiens are mostly water so it doesn't take much to make us float --
>> which explains why it only takes a few days of bacterial gasation to make
>> the dead bodies float back to the surface of the Detroit River.
>>
>> Btw whoever said fiberglass floats needs to tell that to the big chunks
>> of
>> fiberglass I've pulled out of Lake Huron!
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 4:25 PM
>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>>
>> > I think the advertising gurus took poetic license with the flotation
>> value.
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: <lib1@...>
>> > To: <omc-boats@...>
>> > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 2:32 PM
>> > Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> >
>> >
>> > > Hi,
>> > >
>> > > I've found all of your comments on re-foaming interesting. And
>> > > thought
>> I'd
>> > > send along some original Evinrude statements about the manufacturing
>> > > process:
>> > >
>> > > Last night I sent some scans (which apparently are too large for the
>> mail
>> > > list server) of the original Evinrude construction process.
>> > >
>> > > Here's what the paragraph said of the original construction and
>> > > foaming
>> > > process:
>> > >
>> > > "Rigid, closed-cell polyurethane floatation (equivalent to 73 life
>> > > preservers) provides additional structual strength. Foaming is done
>> under
>> > > 250,000 lbs of pressure. Closed dies lock the hull in a steel embrace
>> > > during the foaming operation."
>> > >
>> > > "Special foaming machines produce high-pressure foam twice as dense
>> > > and
>> > > far stronger than poured-in foam. It can't "work" or develop voids;
>> won't
>> > > absorb moisture, shrink. or pull away from the hull regardless of
>> > > temperature or operating conditions."
>> > >
>> > > If you do the simple math that one live preserver could support an
>> > > adult
>> > > weighing 170 pounds x 73 then that equals roughly 12,410 lbs of
>> > > floatation.
>> > >
>> > > I think Evinrude was more than meeting the floatation standards of
>> > > BIA
>> or
>> > > whoever it was reasponsible for setting such standards..
>> > >
>> > > Lee
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ----- Original Message -----
>> > > From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
>> > > To: <omc-boats@...>
>> > > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:17 AM
>> > > Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >> Thanks for the info Dave sounds like the easiest way to go. I just
>> > >> read
>> > >> an article that states you only need enough buoyancy to float the
>> > >> metal
>> > >> and miscellaneous parts of the boat as fiberglass floats.
>> > >>
>> > >> A cubic foot of foam will float about 60 pounds of "dead weight".
>> > >> The
>> > >> wood parts of your boat will probably float, so you don't need
>> flotation
>> > >> foam to offset that weight. The fiberglass parts of your boat will
>> > >> barely sink, so you really don't need much foam to offset the
>> fiberglass-
>> > >> maybe one cubic foot of foam per two hundred pounds (or more) of
>> > >> fiberglass hull. The metal parts of your boat are what you really
>> > >> need
>> > >> to account for.
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >> ----- Original Message -----
>> > >> From: "jdhanson" <jdhanson@...>
>> > >> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> > >> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 4:25 AM
>> > >> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >>> Hey Glen,
>> > >>> I went about re-foaming the same way Mike did. However, instead of
>> > >>> using the pour in type foam. I used "Versi- Foam Systems" foam it
>> > >>> is
>> > >>> the type of foam with a two part mixing nozzle on it. Here is a
>> link
>> > >>> for some info.
>> > >>> www.rhhfoamsystems.com/literature/mfb-1/index.html After I
>> > >>> re-glassing
>> > >>> the seems and edges on the new floor. I drilled little holes every
>> > >>> foot. Just big enough for the mixing nozzle tip to fit in them. I
>> > >>> worked my way from the back of each of the three channels toward
>> > >>> the
>> bow
>> > >>> of the boat filling each hole until the foam was shooting out of
>> > >>> the
>> > >>> hole in front of that hole. Doing it this way I was able to fill
>> every
>> > >>> space and put the floor back exactly how it was. The real good
>> > >>> thing
>> > >>> about using the mixing nozzle was that you did not have to stop
>> > >>> and
>> > >>> remix more foam. The foaming part its self was the easiest and
>> fastest
>> > >>> part of the rebuild. I'm not sure exactly how much foam is used in
>> your
>> > >>> boat. My boat is the sport 16. It took about 29 cubic feet of
>> > >>> foam!
>> > >>> Well I hope this info helps.... Dave H
>> > >>>
>> > >>>
>> > >>> On Aug 23, 2005, at 7:29 AM, Glenn Halweg wrote:
>> > >>>
>> > >>>> Thanks for the info! That's the same place Tom Klauber bought his.
>> How
>> > >>>> much did you use for your boat? Was 9.5 cubic feet enough, that's
>> > >>>> the
>> > >>>> smallest size they offer. Would almost seem like to much.
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Masters, Michael"
>> > >>>> <mmasters@...>
>> > >>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> > >>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:21 AM
>> > >>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>> I believe it was Fibre Glast in Ohio. Very quick service from
>> > >>>>> them
>> > >>>>> but I'm
>> > >>>>> in Buffalo so not very far to ship.
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> -----Original Message-----
>> > >>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
>> > >>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On
>> > >>>>> Behalf Of Glenn Halweg
>> > >>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 10:15 AM
>> > >>>>> To: omc-boats@...
>> > >>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> Mike, where did you get the foam?
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>> > >>>>> From: "Masters, Michael" <mmasters@...>
>> > >>>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> > >>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:08 AM
>> > >>>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>>> I went the other way on the re-foaming. I have a 1966 17' OMC
>> > >>>>>> Dual
>> > >>>>>> Deluxe.
>> > >>>>>> The foam was saturated and wouldn't dry so I removed everything
>> down
>> > >>>>>> to
>> > >>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>> hull. Then I built a new floor, resined the seams and edges, and
>> > >>>>>> drilled
>> > >>>>>> holes to pour in 2 part foam. It filled the hull and raised the
>> > >>>>>> floor.
>> > >>>>>> Very
>> > >>>>>> solid and firm. Just wanted you to know that either method can
>> > >>>>>> work
>> > >>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>> that
>> > >>>>>> it can be very exciting working with 2 part foam.
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>> Mike
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>> > >>>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
>> > >>>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]
>> > >>>>>> On
>> > >>>>>> Behalf Of Thomas Klauber
>> > >>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 9:00 PM
>> > >>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...
>> > >>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>> I guess I didn't proof the text well enough! You need to make
>> > >>>>>> sure
>> > >>>>>> you
>> > >>>>>> don't
>> > >>>>>> over foam the hull as you will have to sand a lot of foam to get
>> the
>> > >>>>>> floor
>> > >>>>>> back to the right level so the sides will fit back into place.
>> > >>>>>> You
>> > >>>>>> will
>> > >>>>>> become aware of this as you take things apart. I pulled the
>> > >>>>>> floor
>> > >>>>>> out and
>> > >>>>>> saved as much as I could to use as a template to cut the new
>> plywood.
>> > >>>>>> Measure everything. Look at everything like seams and where the
>> > >>>>>> T
>> > >>>>>> nuts are
>> > >>>>>> placed - you need to measure their location so the seats will go
>> > >>>>>> back in
>> > >>>>>> proper position or otherwise you can mount the seats with wood
>> > >>>>>> screws.
>> > >>>>>> Don't
>> > >>>>>> screw them through the bottom! There will be a ghost edge at the
>> > >>>>>> floor and
>> > >>>>>> you don't want to fill above that level. You can leave 2-3
>> > >>>>>> inches
>> of
>> > >>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>> original foam at the edges to act as a ledge or level to know
>> > >>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>> height
>> > >>>>>> you
>> > >>>>>> need to refill. I think the factory put the floor in first and
>> > >>>>>> then
>> > >>>>>> injected
>> > >>>>>> the foam which expanded to fit the cavity. I did the reverse. I
>> > >>>>>> would pour
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>>> a
>> > >>>>>> small amount of foam and put plastic sheet and a board on top so
>> the
>> > >>>>>> foam
>> > >>>>>> would expand just to the height I wanted. Remove the sheet which
>> > >>>>>> will not
>> > >>>>>> stick to the foam and do another section next to it.You figure
>> > >>>>>> it
>> > >>>>>> out as
>> > >>>>>> you
>> > >>>>>> go. The foam is a 2 part mixture you mix and pour and it expands
>> > >>>>>> rapidly
>> > >>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>> with some force. It is cured say in 5 minutes. I wanted my floor
>> > >>>>>> to
>> > >>>>>> be as
>> > >>>>>> close to original so I didn't have to re-engineer things. The
>> > >>>>>> whole
>> > >>>>>> project
>> > >>>>>> took months as I am slow but the end result is perfect. I used
>> > >>>>>> regular
>> > >>>>>> plywood and common fiberglass materials. I used materials from a
>> > >>>>>> company
>> > >>>>>> called Fibre Glast - they do a nice business on line and ship
>> > >>>>>> fast.
>> > >>>>>> You
>> > >>>>>> want
>> > >>>>>> to use fresh materials. Let me know if this helps or if you need
>> more
>> > >>>>>> info.
>> > >>>>>> I could spend hours on this subject. TK
>> > >>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>> > >>>>>> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
>> > >>>>>> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
>> > >>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 12:00 PM
>> > >>>>>> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> omc-boats-digest Monday, August 22 2005 Volume 01
>> > >>>>>>> :
>> > >>>>>>> Number
>> > >>>>>>> 367
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>> > >>>>>>> Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>> > >>>>>>>
>> >
>> >>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>> > >>>>>>> --
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 08:08:00 -0400
>> > >>>>>>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
>> > >>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
>> > >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>> > >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>> > >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire
>> hull
>> > >>>>>>> is
>> > >>>>>>> = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one
>> gray
>> > >>>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge.
>> > >>>>>>> I
>> > >>>>>>> used
>> > >>>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
>> > >>>>>>> gotten
>> > >>>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
>> > >>>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored
>> > >>>>>>> to
>> > >>>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think
>> > >>>>>>> is
>> to
>> > >>>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are
>> > >>>>>>> where
>> the
>> > >>>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment
>> > >>>>>>> deck.
>> The
>> > >>>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over
>> > >>>>>>> foam
>> > >>>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did
>> > >>>>>>> not
>> > >>>>>>> touch
>> > >>>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass.
>> > >>>>>>> There
>> > >>>>>>> are
>> > >>>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats
>> > >>>>>>> mount
>> > >>>>>>> to
>> > >>>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy
>> > >>>>>>> to
>> > >>>>>>> get
>> > >>>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is
>> > >>>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>>> hard
>> > >>>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
>> > >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the
>> > >>>>>>> disassembly
>> so
>> > >>>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch
>> > >>>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>>> side
>> > >>>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes.
>> > >>>>>>> The
>> > >>>>>>> wood
>> > >>>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
>> > >>>>>>> started.
>> > >>>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
>> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
>> > >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
>> > >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>> > >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>> > >>>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type
>> > >>>>>>> content=3D"text/html;
>> =
>> > >>>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML
>> > >>>>>>> 6.00.2900.2722"
>> > >>>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY
>> > >>>>>>> bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>> > >>>>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69
>> > >>>>>>> Rogue
>> > >>>>>>> about =
>> > >>>>>>> 3 years ago.=20
>> > >>>>>>> The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal
>> > >>>>>>> stringers = and one=20 gray PVC pipe connecting the front
>> > >>>>>>> "bilge"
>> > >>>>>>> area
>> > >>>>>>> to the rear bilge. I = used a=20 large Forstner drill bit to
>> remove
>> > >>>>>>> the foam. Some of it had gotten = waterlogged.=20 The stringers
>> > >>>>>>> go
>> > >>>>>>> from front to rear.They are not visible and=20
>> > >>>>>>> are sheathed
>> > >>>>>>> in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to =
>> > >>>>>>> the fiberglass=20
>> > >>>>>>> hull
>> > >>>>>>> with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Their
>> main
>> > >>>>>>> =
>> > >>>>>>> purpose I=20 think is to provide rigidity to the hull and more
>> > >>>>>>> important they are = where the=20 engine mounts are supported
>> under
>> > >>>>>>> the engine compartment deck. The = fiberglass=20 floor you see
>> > >>>>>>> in
>> > >>>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>>> engine compartment is over foam and is a = separate=20
>> > >>>>>>> piece
>> > >>>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>>> is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor =
>> surface
>> > >>>>>>> is=20 plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going
>> > >>>>>>> through
>> > >>>>>>> the = floor to the=20 stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in
>> the
>> > >>>>>>> reverse side of the = plywood. The=20 foam is easy to get out
>> > >>>>>>> really.
>> > >>>>>>> It is a 2 part polyurethane foam. = Rebuilding is=20 the hard
>> > >>>>>>> part
>> > >>>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>>> really quite simple but you need to take as many=20
>> > >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and during the
>> disassembly
>> > >>>>>>> so = things=20 will fit back together. Dimensions at the rear
>> hatch
>> > >>>>>>> and side panels are = tight=20 and you don't want to make many
>> > >>>>>>> mistakes. The wood surrounding my front = bilge=20 had rotted
>> > >>>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>>> that's what go me started. Email if you need further=20
>> > >>>>>>> instructions.
>> > >>>>>>> Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0--
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> - -----
>> > >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
>> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> ------------------------------
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 07:24:06 -0500
>> > >>>>>>> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
>> > >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
>> > >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>> > >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>> > >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite
>> > >>>>>>> simple.
>> > >>>>>>> What's = involved?=20
>> > >>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----=20
>> > >>>>>>> From: Thomas Klauber=20
>> > >>>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...=20
>> > >>>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:08 AM
>> > >>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire
>> hull
>> > >>>>>>> is = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and
>> > >>>>>>> one
>> > >>>>>>> gray
>> > >>>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge.
>> > >>>>>>> I
>> > >>>>>>> used
>> > >>>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
>> > >>>>>>> gotten
>> > >>>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
>> > >>>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored
>> > >>>>>>> to
>> > >>>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think
>> > >>>>>>> is
>> to
>> > >>>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are
>> > >>>>>>> where
>> the
>> > >>>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment
>> > >>>>>>> deck.
>> The
>> > >>>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over
>> > >>>>>>> foam
>> > >>>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did
>> > >>>>>>> not
>> > >>>>>>> touch
>> > >>>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass.
>> > >>>>>>> There
>> > >>>>>>> are
>> > >>>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats
>> > >>>>>>> mount
>> > >>>>>>> to
>> > >>>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy
>> > >>>>>>> to
>> > >>>>>>> get
>> > >>>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is
>> > >>>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>>> hard
>> > >>>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
>> > >>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the
>> > >>>>>>> disassembly
>> so
>> > >>>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch
>> > >>>>>>> and
>> > >>>>>>> side
>> > >>>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes.
>> > >>>>>>> The
>> > >>>>>>> wood
>> > >>>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
>> > >>>>>>> started.
>> > >>>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
>> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
>> > >>>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
>> > >>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>> > >>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>> > >>>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type
>> > >>>>>>> content=3D"text/html;
>> =
>> > >>>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML
>> > >>>>>>> 6.00.2900.2722"
>> > >>>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY
>> > >>>>>>> bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>> > >>>>>>> <DIV>Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really
>> quite
>> > >>>>>>> =
>> > >>>>>>> simple.=20 What's involved? </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE
>> > >>>>>>> dir=3Dltr=20
>> > >>>>>>> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT:
>> > >>>>>>> 5px;
>> =
>> > >>>>>>> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV
>> > >>>>>>> style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
>> > >>>>>>> <DIV=20
>> > >>>>>>> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
>> > >>>>>>> black"><B>From:</B>=20 <A title=3Dtklauber@... =
>> > >>>>>>> href=3D"mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas=20
>> > >>>>>>> Klauber</A> </DIV>
>> > >>>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
>> > >>>>>>> title=3Domc-boats-digest@...=20
>> > >>>>>>> =
>> > >>>>>>> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats-digest@...">omc-boats-
>> > >>>>>>> digest@...
>> > >>>>>>> e.c=
>> > >>>>>>> om</A>=20
>> > >>>>>>> </DIV>
>> > >>>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August
>> > >>>>>>> 22,
>> > >>>>>>> 2005
>> > >>>>>>> = 7:08=20 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt
>> arial"><B>Subject:</B>
>> > >>>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue = Hull</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT
>> > >>>>>>> face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue = about
>> > >>>>>>> 3
>> > >>>>>>> years=20 ago. The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2
>> > >>>>>>> longitudinal = stringers=20 and one gray PVC pipe connecting
>> > >>>>>>> the
>> > >>>>>>> front "bilge" area to the rear = bilge. I=20 used a large
>> Forstner
>> > >>>>>>> drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had = gotten=20
>> > >>>>>>> waterlogged.
>> > >>>>>>> The stringers go from front to rear.They are not = visible
>> > >>>>>>> and=20
>> > >>>>>>> are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to =
>> > >>>>>>> the fiberglass=20 hull with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT
>> > >>>>>>> face=3DArial
>> > >>>>>>> size=3D2> Their = main purpose I=20 think is to provide
>> > >>>>>>> rigidity
>> > >>>>>>> to the hull and more important they are = where the=20 engine
>> > >>>>>>> mounts
>> > >>>>>>> are supported under the engine compartment deck. The =
>> fiberglass=20
>> > >>>>>>> floor you see in the engine compartment is over foam and
>> > >>>>>>> is
>> a
>> > >>>>>>> =
>> > >>>>>>> separate=20 piece and is glassed in at the edges - I did not
>> touch
>> > >>>>>>> it. The floor = surface=20 is plywood covered with fiberglass.
>> > >>>>>>> There
>> > >>>>>>> are screws going through the = floor=20 to the stringers. The
>> seats
>> > >>>>>>> mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side of = the=20 plywood. The
>> foam
>> > >>>>>>> is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane
>> > >>>>>>> foam.=20
>> > >>>>>>> Rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple but you
>> > >>>>>>> need
>> to
>> > >>>>>>> =
>> > >>>>>>> take as=20 many measurements/photos before you start and
>> > >>>>>>> during
>> > >>>>>>> the = disassembly so=20 things will fit back together.
>> > >>>>>>> Dimensions
>> > >>>>>>> at
>> > >>>>>>> the rear hatch and side = panels=20 are tight and you don't
>> > >>>>>>> want
>> to
>> > >>>>>>> make many mistakes. The wood = surrounding my=20 front bilge
>> > >>>>>>> had
>> > >>>>>>> rotted and that's what go me started. Email if you = need=20
>> further
>> > >>>>>>> instructions. Tom</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0--
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> - -----
>> > >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
>> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> ------------------------------
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>> > >>>>>>> *******************************
>> > >>>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>> -----
>> > >>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
>> > >>>>>>> omc-boats-digest-unsubscribe@...
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>>
>> > >>>>>> -----
>> > >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
>> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>> > >>>>>> -----
>> > >>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
>> omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>> > >>>>>
>> > >>>>> -----
>> > >>>>> To get off this list send mail to
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Received on Thursday, 25 August 2005
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