Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...

Your Step 3 question: Well you "should" have a decent ground back to the
engine or negitive battery terminal, but that's not always the real-world
situation. Personally, I would find some bare metal on the down-leg case for
my lower gear case ground point. You can always check the ground resistance
each physical step of the way back to the engine block/battery.

Ah, so now the truth comes out -- We are not running Type C, eh?
Mmmmmmm.......that means consulting the OMC Gods....It would be a good idea
not to re-apply power to the coils.
I'd also take readings with and without the rogue lubricant present.

I've personally never cracked open the lower gear case. I've hear it takes
nuclear-power snap ring pliers to get those buggers apart. :-)

Lee

----- Original Message -----
From: "Micah Donahue" <mdonahue@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...

> Thanks VERY much, Lee.
>
> One Q on the troubleshooting. In step 3, I assume you're connecting the
> meter to the ground and terminals inside the engine compartment, rather
> than somewhere in the outdrive? Seems like this is a test you do before
> you crack it open?
>
> Speaking of cracking it open, how hard is it to replace that spring if
> broken?
>
> Also, I'm not 100% sure it has the correct (non-conductive) gear lube in
> it. I think we filled w/ OMC premium last time, but that was 9 months ago.
> Seems like reverse wouldn't work either, but maybe there's a minor short
> or something in the fwd coil that the wrong lube makes worse.
>
> -Micah
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> omc-boats-request@...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Sent:
> Sun, 06 Jul 2008 11:20:39 -0400
> Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 15, Issue 4
>
>
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 09:04:14 -0600
>> From: <lib1@...>
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>> <omc-boats@...>
>> Message-ID: <00e701c8df79$92b10250$c301000a@...>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>> Hi Micha,
>>
>> Good in-the-field, logical troubleshooting on your part.
>>
>> Here's your next step -- You'll need an ohm-meter that can measure
>> resistance in ohms.
>>
>> The shifting is accomplished with electromagnetic "stationary"coils (one
>> each forward and reverse) as well as clutch springs (again one each
>> forward
>> and reverse). When energized with +12 v dc current the coil/spring
>> combination causes the driven gear to engage in either forward or
>> reverse.
>>
>> Basically four elements have to be present or available for shifting to
>> occur:
>>
>> 1) Complete Positive Circuit path for Forward and Reverse (thru internal
>> down-leg harness LIGHT-BLUE = FORWARD, LIGHT-GREEN = REVERSE)
>>
>> 2) There must also be a COMMON return GROUND PATH BACK THRU the down-leg
>> and
>>
>> thru the intermediate housing. OMC offered a ground-strap kit, but since
>> you
>>
>> have current flow on the reverse circuit this path is NOT likely your
>> problem. But check the resistance bewteen the downleg and the engine
>> anyway.
>>
>> Should be essentially close to zero ohms.
>>
>> 3) Each staionary coil should draw approximately 2.25 Amps at 12 v dc.
>> Using Ohms law this is easy to measure with a static resistance
>> measurement.
>>
>> First locate a decent ground point on the down leg and place on probe of
>> the
>>
>> ohmeter there. The second probe should go to the LIGHT-BLUE or LIGHT
>> GREEN
>> stern drive terminal with the remote control disconnected. Your ohmmeter
>> should read approximately 12.00 / 2.25 = 5.3 ohms, which you can round
>> off
>> to 4 to 8 ohms. (An open circuit would yield very high resistance -- A
>> broken or high resistance connection in the wiring would cause this, as
>> would an open staionary coil.)
>>
>> 4) If all the electrical checks prove OK, then you have a defective
>> clutch
>> spring. These have a tendency to fail (physically break) when shifted
>> from
>> neutral into gear above the recommended idle RPM speed (typically 550 to
>> 650
>>
>> RPM).
>>
>> If I had to guess -- you'll find the problem in either step 1 or 4.
>>
>> I'm writing this from memory, so any one elese feel free to jump in.
>>
>> Oh, here's a decent picture to better understand what's inside the
>> gearcase:
>>
>>
>>
>> Also see:
>> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/omc_stringer.htm
>>
>> Lee Shuster
>>
>> Salt Lake City
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Micah Donahue" <mdonahue@...>
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 6:27 AM
>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>>
>>
>> > ...it's tough to pull a skier in that direction.
>> >
>> > We had our '68 Sportsman 155 in the water yesterday for a sea trial.
>> > Started and ran flawlessly, and shifted fine into reverse to back away
>> > from the dock. But it wouldn't shift into forward gear.
>> >
>> > We ruled out the console push-button switches by reversing the 2 wires
>> > where they connect to the wires that go into the intermediate housing
>> > of the outdrive. Then, as you'd expect, it shifted into reverse by
>> > pushing the *forward* shift button. But from that point, we got
>> > nowhere. We assume the problem is either:
>> > a) a break in the "forward" wire somewhere in the run from engine
>> > compartment to lower unit
>> > b) bad shift solenoid (assuming that's what you'd call the part that
>> > does the shifting)
>> >
>> > Obviously, next step is to dive in w/ the manual and start looking for
>> > wiring problems as the wiring goes from engine compartment to lower
>> > unit. Then check the operation of the solenoid. As we do that, any
>> > suggestions? Any "duhh" solutions we're missing? Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> > -Micah
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > OMC-Boats mailing list
>> > OMC-Boats@...
>> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
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Received on Sunday, 6 July 2008