Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...

Hope you don't mind me jumping in on this thread - but the
non-conductive gear lube comment has caught my attention. I'm hoping to
get my 67 100hp outboard with electric shift out for a "maiden voyage"
this week, but had not considered the need for special gear oil in the
lower unit. I've just filled it with fresh outboard lower unit lube from
my local Canadian Tire store. Should I drain and refill it before the
test run with something else? Is this oil only available from the
dealer, or should I look for a DOT or grade specification on the oil I
used?

Thanks,
Ian

-----Original Message-----
From: omc-boats-bounces@...
[mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of
lib1@...
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 9:45 PM
To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...

Your Step 3 question: Well you "should" have a decent ground back to
the
engine or negitive battery terminal, but that's not always the
real-world
situation. Personally, I would find some bare metal on the down-leg case
for
my lower gear case ground point. You can always check the ground
resistance
each physical step of the way back to the engine block/battery.

Ah, so now the truth comes out -- We are not running Type C, eh?
Mmmmmmm.......that means consulting the OMC Gods....It would be a good
idea
not to re-apply power to the coils.
I'd also take readings with and without the rogue lubricant present.

I've personally never cracked open the lower gear case. I've hear it
takes
nuclear-power snap ring pliers to get those buggers apart. :-)

Lee

----- Original Message -----
From: "Micah Donahue" <mdonahue@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...

> Thanks VERY much, Lee.
>
> One Q on the troubleshooting. In step 3, I assume you're connecting
the
> meter to the ground and terminals inside the engine compartment,
rather
> than somewhere in the outdrive? Seems like this is a test you do
before
> you crack it open?
>
> Speaking of cracking it open, how hard is it to replace that spring if

> broken?
>
> Also, I'm not 100% sure it has the correct (non-conductive) gear lube
in
> it. I think we filled w/ OMC premium last time, but that was 9 months
ago.
> Seems like reverse wouldn't work either, but maybe there's a minor
short
> or something in the fwd coil that the wrong lube makes worse.
>
> -Micah
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> omc-boats-request@...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Sent:
> Sun, 06 Jul 2008 11:20:39 -0400
> Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 15, Issue 4
>
>
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 09:04:14 -0600
>> From: <lib1@...>
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>> <omc-boats@...>
>> Message-ID: <00e701c8df79$92b10250$c301000a@...>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>> Hi Micha,
>>
>> Good in-the-field, logical troubleshooting on your part.
>>
>> Here's your next step -- You'll need an ohm-meter that can measure
>> resistance in ohms.
>>
>> The shifting is accomplished with electromagnetic "stationary"coils
(one
>> each forward and reverse) as well as clutch springs (again one each
>> forward
>> and reverse). When energized with +12 v dc current the coil/spring
>> combination causes the driven gear to engage in either forward or
>> reverse.
>>
>> Basically four elements have to be present or available for shifting
to
>> occur:
>>
>> 1) Complete Positive Circuit path for Forward and Reverse (thru
internal
>> down-leg harness LIGHT-BLUE = FORWARD, LIGHT-GREEN = REVERSE)
>>
>> 2) There must also be a COMMON return GROUND PATH BACK THRU the
down-leg
>> and
>>
>> thru the intermediate housing. OMC offered a ground-strap kit, but
since
>> you
>>
>> have current flow on the reverse circuit this path is NOT likely your
>> problem. But check the resistance bewteen the downleg and the engine
>> anyway.
>>
>> Should be essentially close to zero ohms.
>>
>> 3) Each staionary coil should draw approximately 2.25 Amps at 12 v
dc.
>> Using Ohms law this is easy to measure with a static resistance
>> measurement.
>>
>> First locate a decent ground point on the down leg and place on probe
of
>> the
>>
>> ohmeter there. The second probe should go to the LIGHT-BLUE or LIGHT
>> GREEN
>> stern drive terminal with the remote control disconnected. Your
ohmmeter
>> should read approximately 12.00 / 2.25 = 5.3 ohms, which you can
round
>> off
>> to 4 to 8 ohms. (An open circuit would yield very high resistance --
A
>> broken or high resistance connection in the wiring would cause this,
as
>> would an open staionary coil.)
>>
>> 4) If all the electrical checks prove OK, then you have a defective
>> clutch
>> spring. These have a tendency to fail (physically break) when shifted

>> from
>> neutral into gear above the recommended idle RPM speed (typically 550
to
>> 650
>>
>> RPM).
>>
>> If I had to guess -- you'll find the problem in either step 1 or 4.
>>
>> I'm writing this from memory, so any one elese feel free to jump in.
>>
>> Oh, here's a decent picture to better understand what's inside the
>> gearcase:
>>
>>
>>
>> Also see:
>> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/omc_stringer.htm
>>
>> Lee Shuster
>>
>> Salt Lake City
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Micah Donahue" <mdonahue@...>
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 6:27 AM
>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>>
>>
>> > ...it's tough to pull a skier in that direction.
>> >
>> > We had our '68 Sportsman 155 in the water yesterday for a sea
trial.
>> > Started and ran flawlessly, and shifted fine into reverse to back
away
>> > from the dock. But it wouldn't shift into forward gear.
>> >
>> > We ruled out the console push-button switches by reversing the 2
wires
>> > where they connect to the wires that go into the intermediate
housing
>> > of the outdrive. Then, as you'd expect, it shifted into reverse by
>> > pushing the *forward* shift button. But from that point, we got
>> > nowhere. We assume the problem is either:
>> > a) a break in the "forward" wire somewhere in the run from engine
>> > compartment to lower unit
>> > b) bad shift solenoid (assuming that's what you'd call the part
that
>> > does the shifting)
>> >
>> > Obviously, next step is to dive in w/ the manual and start looking
for
>> > wiring problems as the wiring goes from engine compartment to lower
>> > unit. Then check the operation of the solenoid. As we do that, any
>> > suggestions? Any "duhh" solutions we're missing? Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> > -Micah
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > OMC-Boats mailing list
>> > OMC-Boats@...
>> > http://lists.ultimate.com/mailman/listinfo/omc-boats
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Received on Monday, 7 July 2008