Re: [OMC-Boats] Dwell/tach

Cool. Now all I need is to find a 340 Buick and a Qudra Jet. I don't
really want to move the motor mounts so I'm going to stay away from
the 350 Chevy.

> Electric stringers will designed to safely take 350-400 ft-lbs of torque and
> stay under 5000 rpm. One could fairly safely accommodate a 260-290 hp small
> block.
> A Quadra-Jet 4-barrel on a 340 Buick or a 350 Chevy would be ideal without
> getting crazy. OMC installed the 351-W ford which they conservatively rated
> at 235 hp.
> Lee
> On Sep 12, 2009, at 8:54 AM, BC Howk wrote:
>
> some history for your buick should give you some idea about HP gains and
> torque (I did not realize the buick nail head and the aluminium rover V8
> were related, interesting)
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_V8_engine
>
> Did a quick search for 4bbl intake does not seem to be an easy item to run
> across, apparently origional buick 4bbl intakes were
> aluminium......aftermarket doesnt seem to have much for the 300 and 340
> (tons of stuff for the 350 and big block buicks)but if you did some research
> and hunting I bet you could come up with some good performance enhancements
> for what you have.
>
> Lee swapped in a small block chevy into his sportsman, take a look at his
> web site he goes into a lot of detail
>
> http://www.hhscott.com/evinrude/chevy_v8.htm
>
> if you went on the road of swapping in a small block chevy (like a 350),
> well you could just go NUTS with aftermarket performance stuff if you
> wanted. The only question would be how much HP would the old electric
> stringer actually take....
>
> Cheers,
> B.C.
>
> On Sep 11, 2009, Justin DeSantis <duc1098desmo@...> wrote:
>
> I hadn't planned on adjusting the timing. Just checking it while I was
> poking around in there. Once I get in and look around, I'll let you
> know if I have more questions. Good to know about the Buick 340. Any
> idea of the horsepower increase if I performed said swap? What about
> other GM small blocks?
>
> And while we're talking, let me run a few other things by you. I spoke
> with a marine mechanic today, he gave me some info on the stringers,
> but it's been so long since he's actually worked on one, I wanted to
> make sure he was remembering correctly. Because he said a few things
> that are in direct contradiction with the owners manual for my boat.
> First, we we're talking about oil. I told him I used type C or Premium
> (in OMC speak) fluid in the lower and upper gear case. He told me I
> goofed. He said they use Type C in the lower gear case, and high vis
> in the upper gear case and tilt motor gear case. When I told him the
> manual said to use type C in those, he told me I must have read wrong.
> Well I checked, and I was right, they call for type c in all those
> places. Should I be using Hi vis? He also said there is oil in the
> intermediate that needs to be changed. I can't find any mention of
> this in the manual.
>
> One more thing, this guy told me changing out the impeller requires
> the outdrive to come off the boat before I remove the lower unit. Said
> I'd damage it if I removed it without first removing the outdrive from
> the intermediate. Now, I know this guy, and he knows his stuff. But
> they stopped working on stringers years ago, so it wouldn't shock me
> if he's wrong on some of this. Once I get my service manual, I'l' be
> golden, but until then, I'm flying blind. No biggie though, I don't
> plan on replacing the impeller until winter. This year, I'm storing
> the boat in my mother in laws garage so I can get some projects done
> on it over the winter. (Let me tell you, it's going to be a real feat
> to get it into her garage. The garage is big enough, but the location
> will make it tricky to get a boat in. I'll take pictures of that
> fiasco.)
> Thanks for all the info.
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 12:03 AM, Lee Shuster (lib1) <lib1@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> NO, you're describing a SECONDARY HV INDUCTIVE pickup designed to sense
>> pulse firing off No.1 cylinder. I'm not surprised that's what you are more
>> familiar with. These induction pickups are also commonly used on timing
>> lights as well.
>>
>> NOTE: I"M Pretty sure that's NOT what you have with the RAC If it has
>> the common red and black alligator clips.
>>
>> This RAC tach/dwell PROBABLY hooks up to one of (two) the small threaded
>> terminals on the COIL. The coil has THREE CONNECTIONS.
>>
>> 1) HV SECONDARY which sends high voltage spark to the center distributor
>> terminal. IGNORE
>>
>> 2) + IGN (PRIMARY) Voltage from the ballast resistor (small threaded
>> terminal) IGNORE
>>
>> 3) - (PRIMARY) voltage small lead to distributor and lead to tach (Small
>> threaded terminal) HOOK UP THE RED TACH LEAD HERE. Connect the BLACK TACH
>> lead to any common ground.
>>
>> THERE"S NO Timing "port" like you're used to viewing on motorcycles.
>> Instead
>> there will be timing "marks" on the rotating damper which is connected to
>> the front crankshaft. There will be a static pointer. Point your timing
>> light at the pointer when the engine is running (follow the manual
>> instructions to adjust timing). The distributor will mechanically advance
>> the timing over 20 degrees as you increase the RPMs up to roughly 2750 to
>> 3000 RPM. It's not recommended you alter ign timing, until you checked
>> compression, gapped the plugs, checked spark plug HT wire resistance/HV,
>> set
>> the points & dwell.
>>
>> Have fun. BTW, I researched the Buick V8 faimly a little more. The 300
>> shares pretty much everything with the 340 and would be a no-brainer bolt
>> in. The 350 Buick shares very little, I'm not sure exhaust manifolds would
>> swap over.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 11, 2009, at 8:00 PM, Justin DeSantis wrote:
>>
>>> Cool, I'm looking forward to hooking it up and comparing it's accuracy
>>> to my other 2 tachs. Hopefully it's correct. You just clipping it on
>>> to the outside of the plug wire like a modern tach, or does it require
>>> some special hook-up procedure. One more question where is the port to
>>> inspect timing? (I ordered a service manual. Not here yet.)
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 8:47 PM, Lee Shuster <lks@...> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I've got one of those old-school RAC's too. Pretty common back in the
>>>> sixties.
>>>>
>>>> Simple to hook it:
>>>>
>>>> 1) You connect the Red side to the (-) coil primary (same terminal which
>>>> has
>>>> the lead to your distributor points.
>>>> 2) Then the other side is connected to a good engine ground.
>>>>
>>>> Should have a switch to change from 6 to 8 cyl. (4 cyl used 1/2 the 8
>>>> cyl
>>>> reading).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 11, 2009, at 5:45 PM, Justin DeSantis wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hey gang. I borrowed a dwell meter and tach combo from a friend. I
>>>>> can't for the life of me figure out how to use it as a tach though.
>>>>> It's an old RAC dwell/tach. all it has is red and black alligator
>>>>> clips. Other tachs I've used just go to the spark plug cable, one
>>>>> wire. How does this thing hook up for use as a tach? One lead to the
>>>>> spark plug, one to the battery negative? I know how to use it as
>>>>> dwell, but not as tach. Anyone use one of these old beasts?
>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>
>>>>
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Received on Saturday, 12 September 2009