Re: [OMC-Boats] Dwell/tach

Electric stringers will designed to safely take 350-400 ft-lbs of
torque and stay under 5000 rpm. One could fairly safely accommodate a
260-290 hp small block.

A Quadra-Jet 4-barrel on a 340 Buick or a 350 Chevy would be ideal
without getting crazy. OMC installed the 351-W ford which they
conservatively rated at 235 hp.

Lee

On Sep 12, 2009, at 8:54 AM, BC Howk wrote:

> some history for your buick should give you some idea about HP gains
> and torque (I did not realize the buick nail head and the aluminium
> rover V8 were related, interesting)
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_V8_engine
>
> Did a quick search for 4bbl intake does not seem to be an easy item
> to run across, apparently origional buick 4bbl intakes were
> aluminium......aftermarket doesnt seem to have much for the 300 and
> 340 (tons of stuff for the 350 and big block buicks)but if you did
> some research and hunting I bet you could come up with some good
> performance enhancements for what you have.
>
> Lee swapped in a small block chevy into his sportsman, take a look
> at his web site he goes into a lot of detail
>
> http://www.hhscott.com/evinrude/chevy_v8.htm
>
> if you went on the road of swapping in a small block chevy (like a
> 350), well you could just go NUTS with aftermarket performance stuff
> if you wanted. The only question would be how much HP would the old
> electric stringer actually take....
>
> Cheers,
> B.C.
>
> On Sep 11, 2009, Justin DeSantis <duc1098desmo@...> wrote:
>
> I hadn't planned on adjusting the timing. Just checking it while I was
> poking around in there. Once I get in and look around, I'll let you
> know if I have more questions. Good to know about the Buick 340. Any
> idea of the horsepower increase if I performed said swap? What about
> other GM small blocks?
>
> And while we're talking, let me run a few other things by you. I spoke
> with a marine mechanic today, he gave me some info on the stringers,
> but it's been so long since he's actually worked on one, I wanted to
> make sure he was remembering correctly. Because he said a few things
> that are in direct contradiction with the owners manual for my boat.
> First, we we're talking about oil. I told him I used type C or Premium
> (in OMC speak) fluid in the lower and upper gear case. He told me I
> goofed. He said they use Type C in the lower gear case, and high vis
> in the upper gear case and tilt motor gear case. When I told him the
> manual said to use type C in those, he told me I must have read wrong.
> Well I checked, and I was right, they call for type c in all those
> places. Should I be using Hi vis? He also said there is oil in the
> intermediate that needs to be changed. I can't find any mention of
> this in the manual.
>
> One more thing, this guy told me changing out the impeller requires
> the outdrive to come off the boat before I remove the lower unit. Said
> I'd damage it if I removed it without first removing the outdrive from
> the intermediate. Now, I know this guy, and he knows his stuff. But
> they stopped working on stringers years ago, so it wouldn't shock me
> if he's wrong on some of this. Once I get my service manual, I'l' be
> golden, but until then, I'm flying blind. No biggie though, I don't
> plan on replacing the impeller until winter. This year, I'm storing
> the boat in my mother in laws garage so I can get some projects done
> on it over the winter. (Let me tell you, it's going to be a real feat
> to get it into her garage. The garage is big enough, but the location
> will make it tricky to get a boat in. I'll take pictures of that
> fiasco.)
> Thanks for all the info.
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 12:03 AM, Lee Shuster (lib1)
> <lib1@...> wrote:
> >
> > NO, you're describing a SECONDARY HV INDUCTIVE pickup designed to
> sense
> > pulse firing off No.1 cylinder. I'm not surprised that's what you
> are more
> > familiar with. These induction pickups are also commonly used on
> timing
> > lights as well.
> >
> > NOTE: I"M Pretty sure that's NOT what you have with the RAC If it
> has
> > the common red and black alligator clips.
> >
> > This RAC tach/dwell PROBABLY hooks up to one of (two) the small
> threaded
> > terminals on the COIL. The coil has THREE CONNECTIONS.
> >
> > 1) HV SECONDARY which sends high voltage spark to the center
> distributor
> > terminal. IGNORE
> >
> > 2) + IGN (PRIMARY) Voltage from the ballast resistor (small threaded
> > terminal) IGNORE
> >
> > 3) - (PRIMARY) voltage small lead to distributor and lead to tach
> (Small
> > threaded terminal) HOOK UP THE RED TACH LEAD HERE. Connect the
> BLACK TACH
> > lead to any common ground.
> >
> > THERE"S NO Timing "port" like you're used to viewing on
> motorcycles. Instead
> > there will be timing "marks" on the rotating damper which is
> connected to
> > the front crankshaft. There will be a static pointer. Point your
> timing
> > light at the pointer when the engine is running (follow the manual
> > instructions to adjust timing). The distributor will mechanically
> advance
> > the timing over 20 degrees as you increase the RPMs up to roughly
> 2750 to
> > 3000 RPM. It's not recommended you alter ign timing, until you
> checked
> > compression, gapped the plugs, checked spark plug HT wire
> resistance/HV, set
> > the points & dwell.
> >
> > Have fun. BTW, I researched the Buick V8 faimly a little more. The
> 300
> > shares pretty much everything with the 340 and would be a no-
> brainer bolt
> > in. The 350 Buick shares very little, I'm not sure exhaust
> manifolds would
> > swap over.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sep 11, 2009, at 8:00 PM, Justin DeSantis wrote:
> >
> >> Cool, I'm looking forward to hooking it up and comparing it's
> accuracy
> >> to my other 2 tachs. Hopefully it's correct. You just clipping it
> on
> >> to the outside of the plug wire like a modern tach, or does it
> require
> >> some special hook-up procedure. One more question where is the
> port to
> >> inspect timing? (I ordered a service manual. Not here yet.)
> >>
> >>
> >> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 8:47 PM, Lee Shuster <lks@...>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I've got one of those old-school RAC's too. Pretty common back
> in the
> >>> sixties.
> >>>
> >>> Simple to hook it:
> >>>
> >>> 1) You connect the Red side to the (-) coil primary (same
> terminal which
> >>> has
> >>> the lead to your distributor points.
> >>> 2) Then the other side is connected to a good engine ground.
> >>>
> >>> Should have a switch to change from 6 to 8 cyl. (4 cyl used 1/2
> the 8 cyl
> >>> reading).
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Sep 11, 2009, at 5:45 PM, Justin DeSantis wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Hey gang. I borrowed a dwell meter and tach combo from a
> friend. I
> >>>> can't for the life of me figure out how to use it as a tach
> though.
> >>>> It's an old RAC dwell/tach. all it has is red and black alligator
> >>>> clips. Other tachs I've used just go to the spark plug cable, one
> >>>> wire. How does this thing hook up for use as a tach? One lead
> to the
> >>>> spark plug, one to the battery negative? I know how to use it as
> >>>> dwell, but not as tach. Anyone use one of these old beasts?
> >>>> _______________________________________________
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Received on Saturday, 12 September 2009