The purpose of the rear tie down is two-fold, keep the boat from bouncing off the trailer and keep it from sliding backwards should the bow line break. Tying to deck cleats has two problems. First, deck cleats are generally much weaker than transom or bow mounts. They are unusually strong on these old OMC's, but typically they are designed for the relatively light duty loads of mooring. Many deck cleats have been ripped out by unwary sailors who tried to use them to anchor tow lines, occasionally striking a person on the opposite end of the rope with grave results. The second reason is positioning. If you look at John's pictures, you can see the line actually runs forward as it rises. Should the bow line break, the boat will slide back 1 - 2' before the rear lines tighten to hold the boat. Once the boat starts moving, you're dealing with much higher dynamic loads which increase the chances the line will break. Its better than nothing, but its far from optimal.
On another note, BoatUS just ran another article on storage with E10. Nothing new (use stabilizer, top off tank) , but another interesting read on the topic. If the link works (may be members only), here it is: http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/boatus/200911/#/66 . Lee, related to this topic, I've now talked to two additional triboligists who also agreed that no additive would restore any fuel or lubricant to "factory fresh" condition. All agreed it does help to refresh the additives so at least we know we're not wasting money.
Andy
'67 Reveler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin DeSantis" <duc1098desmo@...>
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...mate.com>
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 12:50:45 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
If I'm not mistaken, that tie down arrangement in his pictures is the
factory tie down and how Johnson recommends it's tied down.
On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 12:17 PM, ANDY PERAKES
<aperakes@...> wrote:
> That is different. Anxious to hear how it works.
>
>
>
> John: I don't know if that's how you usually do your rear tie-downs, but
> you should really be attaching to the transom. The upper deck cleat you're
> attached to in the photos will allow the boat quite a bit of rearward travel
> before cinching up and by then it may be too late.
>
>
>
> Andy
>
> '67 Reveler
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Veazie" <scottveazie@...>
> To: omc-boats@...
> Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 11:20:03 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
>
> Hey John,
>
> I noticed in one of your pics that you had doel-fin type fins on the BACK of
> your drive? I've never seen them mounted that way, how well does that
> work? Anyone else see what I'm seeing?
>
> ~Scott
>
> ________________________________
> From: northphx@...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 07:34:57 -0700
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
>
> Lee (and Forum),
>
> A quick thank you for the support and recommendations that you've made in
> support of my newbie questions. My 67/68 Johnson Surfer is now running very
> very well on area lakes. I've completed:
>
> Documentation: all rig OMC docs acquired on eBay
>
> Owner's manual
> Orig OMC Service Manual for boat (one used by authorized dealer repair
> technicians)
> Boat Parts
> Sterndrive parts
>
> Boat
>
> New fuel lines (Used the Stainless steel braided type due to close runs to
> the engine)
> power-washed both gas tanks, added new hose (flexible stuff from Napa) and
> custom cut new gas tank gaskets from cork/rubber gasket material (autozone)
> put in a Pertronix Electic Ignition system...don't want to mess with
> "Points"...highly recommend this upgrade at ~$85 and 10 mins of work
> Rebuilt Carb with CK812 carburetor kit from www.carburetor.ca (Rusty/owner
> is VERY helpful and knowledgeable...knew which rebuilt kit to recommend
> immediately upon hearing engine and OMC/Marine use)
> General electrical repair and clean-up
>
> Trailer
>
> Key learning: the rubber stopper on for the bow was incorrectly placed on
> top of trailer "stop" and this eliminated critical inches that -once
> corrected/place below metal holder- pulled the keel off the rollers
> New wheels
> Repaired Jack that lifts bow on trailer...seems like a unique design I am
> guessing to eliminate requirement for boat ramps (the thing with "teeth"
> inside...bearing??...anyway...got lucky and found similar online and matched
> the "look" even though from different manufacturer. It works! )
> Added trailer Jack to improve safety
>
> Pictures: I've posted some pics here:
> http://cid-475cacc7c0e86c18.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Boat
>
> btw: since the manifolds are key to life expectancy of this model boat,
> there is a cleaning/lining process used by local hot rod and classic car
> shops that I am considering. The process involves sand blasting, acid
> washing, and some type of "hot blue/Jet blue" process by which a synthetic
> coating is put onto the parts that eliminates rust and reduces build up. As
> I explore further, I'll share my findings with the forum.
>
> Again, thanks for the support!
>
> Best,
> John
> ________________________________
> Windows 7: Simplify your PC. Learn more.
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Received on Tuesday, 27 October 2009
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