Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!

From: Doug Julien <dfjulien@...>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 09:10:30 -0700 (PDT)

Hi Andy:

All good points, but my Sportsmans have no transom eyebolts except the center lifting eye. I always tow with a safety line attached to the bow eyebolt in case the winch line breaks or slips. I think Evinrude designed the rear side tie-downs solely to keep the boat from shifting on the bunks when it bounces.

That stem eye in the bow isn't going to pull out - so that's where I put the prevention from sliding backward.

-Doug Julien

--- On Tue, 10/27/09, ANDY PERAKES <aperakes@...> wrote:

> From: ANDY PERAKES <aperakes@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...>
> Date: Tuesday, October 27, 2009, 10:44 AM
> #yiv1980776489 p
> {margin:0;}The purpose of the
> rear tie down is two-fold, keep the boat from bouncing
> off the trailer and keep it from sliding backwards should
> the bow line break. Tying to deck cleats has two
> problems. First, deck cleats are generally much weaker
> than transom or bow mounts. They are unusually strong
> on these old OMC's, but typically they are designed for
> the relatively light duty loads of mooring. Many deck
> cleats have been ripped out by unwary sailors who tried to
> use them to anchor tow lines, occasionally striking a
> person on the opposite end of the rope with grave
> results. The second reason is positioning. If
> you look at John's pictures, you can see the line
> actually runs forward as it rises. Should the bow line
> break, the boat will slide back 1 - 2' before the rear
> lines tighten to hold the boat. Once the boat
> starts moving, you're dealing with much higher
> dynamic loads which increase the chances the line will
> break. Its better than nothing, but its far from
> optimal.
>
> On another note, BoatUS just ran another article on
> storage with E10. Nothing new (use stabilizer,
> top off tank), but another interesting read on the
> topic. If the link works (may be members only),
> here it is: http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/boatus/200911/#/66.
> Lee, related to this topic, I've now talked to two
> additional triboligists who also agreed that no additive
> would restore any fuel or lubricant to "factory
> fresh" condition. All agreed it does help to
> refresh the additives so at least we know we're not
> wasting money.
>
> Andy
> '67 Reveler
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Justin DeSantis"
> <duc1098desmo@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's
> and 70's" <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 12:50:45 PM GMT -05:00
> US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running
> great!
>
> If I'm not mistaken, that tie down arrangement in his
> pictures is the
> factory tie down and how Johnson recommends it's tied
> down.
>
> On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 12:17 PM, ANDY PERAKES
> <aperakes@...> wrote:
> > That is different. Anxious to hear how it
> works.
> >
> >
> >
> > John: I don't know if that's how you
> usually do your rear tie-downs, but
> > you should really be attaching to the transom.
> The upper deck cleat you're
> > attached to in the photos will allow the boat quite a
> bit of rearward travel
> > before cinching up and by then it may be too late.
> >
> >
> >
> > Andy
> >
> > '67 Reveler
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Scott Veazie"
> <scottveazie@...>
> > To: omc-boats@...
> > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 11:20:03 AM GMT -05:00
> US/Canada Eastern
> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running
> great!
> >
> > Hey John,
> >
> > I noticed in one of your pics that you had doel-fin
> type fins on the BACK of
> > your drive? I've never seen them mounted
> that way, how well does that
> > work? Anyone else see what I'm seeing?
> >
> > ~Scott
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: northphx@...
> > To: omc-boats@...
> > Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 07:34:57 -0700
> > Subject: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running
> great!
> >
> > Lee (and Forum),
> >
> > A quick thank you for the support and recommendations
> that you've made in
> > support of my newbie questions. My 67/68 Johnson
> Surfer is now running very
> > very well on area lakes. I've completed:
> >
> > Documentation: all rig OMC docs acquired on eBay
> >
> > Owner's manual
> > Orig OMC Service Manual for boat (one used by
> authorized dealer repair
> > technicians)
> > Boat Parts
> > Sterndrive parts
> >
> > Boat
> >
> > New fuel lines (Used the Stainless steel braided type
> due to close runs to
> > the engine)
> > power-washed both gas tanks, added new hose (flexible
> stuff from Napa) and
> > custom cut new gas tank gaskets from cork/rubber
> gasket material (autozone)
> > put in a Pertronix Electic Ignition system...don't
> want to mess with
> > "Points"...highly recommend this upgrade at
> ~$85 and 10 mins of work
> > Rebuilt Carb with CK812 carburetor kit from
> www.carburetor.ca (Rusty/owner
> > is VERY helpful and knowledgeable...knew which rebuilt
> kit to recommend
> > immediately upon hearing engine and OMC/Marine use)
> > General electrical repair and clean-up
> >
> > Trailer
> >
> > Key learning: the rubber stopper on for the bow
> was incorrectly placed on
> > top of trailer "stop" and this eliminated
> critical inches that -once
> > corrected/place below metal holder- pulled the keel
> off the rollers
> > New wheels
> > Repaired Jack that lifts bow on trailer...seems like a
> unique design I am
> > guessing to eliminate requirement for boat ramps (the
> thing with "teeth"
> > inside...bearing??...anyway...got lucky and found
> similar online and matched
> > the "look" even though from different
> manufacturer. It works! )
> > Added trailer Jack to improve safety
> >
> > Pictures: I've posted some pics here:
> >
> http://cid-475cacc7c0e86c18.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Boat
> >
> > btw: since the manifolds are key to life
> expectancy of this model boat,
> > there is a cleaning/lining process used by local hot
> rod and classic car
> > shops that I am considering. The process
> involves sand blasting, acid
> > washing, and some type of "hot blue/Jet
> blue" process by which a synthetic
> > coating is put onto the parts that eliminates rust and
> reduces build up. As
> > I explore further, I'll share my findings with the
> forum.
> >
> > Again, thanks for the support!
> >
> > Best,
> > John
> > ________________________________
> > Windows 7: Simplify your PC. Learn more.
> > _______________________________________________
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Received on Tuesday, 27 October 2009

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